alternate to a nismo thermostat

[jackal264]

i remember reading somewhere that there was a thermostat off another car that would open earlier like a nismo thermostat but my searches have come up empty.

anyone know which car it was from?

[midnight_rex]

just buy a nismo. u wont regret it

[Sileighty_85]

The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Nismo Low Temp Thermostat :: 240sx (http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.php?func=catalog&category_id=1159&product_id=266)

[MadScientist]

several places make Thermo... most are about the same prices.

Nismo
Sard
ARC
Billion

If $100 is to much (IYO)... then get the Nismo... if you want options and the absolute best... get Billion!!

-Drew

[jackal264]

i have a nismo and it failed on me. it's stuck closed

[RHD95S14]

Just get one for a ka, they make them at different opening temps

[S14DB]

The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Nismo Low Temp Thermostat :: 240sx (http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.php?func=catalog&category_id=1159&product_id=266)
That's BS. Stock is 180*f and you can get a 170* one at the parts store for $8.

[jackal264]

thx thats the info i was looking for. so most parts places will have ka compatible one that open at lower temps?

[Ali 556]

dunno

today the temp out side is 46*C...:squint:..My s14 is fucked in this weather....i've tried running "colder BS" t-stat but they work the same....

2007 pathfinder have the same t-stat as the ka...open at the same temp too FAIL C

no i'm running my car t-stat LESS...it's the same with or with out...:cool:

NINJA edit :

some one delet my link WTF?

[S14DB]

thx thats the info i was looking for. so most parts places will have ka compatible one that open at lower temps?

Most stores shelf stock will be the 170, OEM is 180.

[Bigsyke]

That's BS. Stock is 180*f and you can get a 170* one at the parts store for $8.


Wow, I was actually wondering today if thenismoshop had a type-o on their OEM tstats, since 76.5*c wasnt even near 195*f, because I was going to purchase the nismo.

180*f is perfect IMO

[Ali 556]

wow, i was actually wondering today if thenismoshop had a type-o on their oem tstats, since 76.5*c wasnt even near 195*f, because i was going to purchase the nismo.

180*f is perfect imo


76.5c = 169.7 *f

82.22 c = 180 *f

195 f = 90*c

[Bigsyke]

76.5c = 169.7 *f

82.22 c = 180 *f

195 f = 90*c


not according to thenismoshop.com

[essforteen]

Its a Typo they did not convert correctly
OEM is 170
Nismo is 143.6 F

[Ali 556]

Its a Typo they did not convert correctly
OEM is 170
Nismo is 143.6 F

143.6 *F = 62 *C

:keke:

[Sileighty_85]

I have the Nismo Thermo from West Cov.
Combined with a Alum Koyo Rad and Dual E-Fans

My Defi Temp Gauge Never goes above 70*C (158*F)
always stays around 67*C

[jackal264]

at the track this weekend i was hitting 220 after 2 laps and i'm running koyo rad, nismo t-stat, dual fal fans, and water wetter... then i let it idle to cool off came back 5 mins later and i was at 260!! fans were fine.

[MadScientist]

^^ 260?? :bite:

I have warnings set for 190... 200 - 210 is getting hot... 260 is near death!!

Cooling Systems are very simple... only have a few components (all replaceable) ... if you have one part wrong the system will not be optimal... most critical that gets looked over is the fan shroud!!

-Drew

[murda-c]

at the track this weekend i was hitting 220 after 2 laps and i'm running koyo rad, nismo t-stat, dual fal fans, and water wetter... then i let it idle to cool off came back 5 mins later and i was at 260!! fans were fine.


The temp went up while idling?

Fans definitely aren't fine.

Should put your clutch fan back on.

[Ali 556]

+1

do you have oil cooler? maybe heat from there heated up the system

:naw:

[jackal264]

+1

do you have oil cooler? maybe heat from there heated up the system

:naw:


yup rinning a good sized oil cooler to. infact when the water spiked at idle the oil temps were fine.

and as for the shroud i'm running the 240 specific fal fans that come with a shroud. and i was running a stock fan before and was still getting overheating issues. and before anyone asks yes i also properly burped the system.

[Sileighty_85]

What gauges are you using?

[jackal264]

What gauges are you using?

autometer cobalt. i've never had an issue with the gauge before.

here is a bit more info for those who may be able to help.

s14 sr into s14
fmic
koyo rad
dual fal fans
nismo t-stat
water wetter and 50/50 mix
properly bled the system

1 min on the track hard drifting and bang over heating. now normally i would just idle the car and the temps would come back down to 165 within a few mins but this last time the temps actually crept up. once i noticed it i shut the car off but ran the fans. after 2 mins i turned the car back on to let the water circulate and the temps cam back down quickly to 180 and then gradually back to 165.

there is no leak as the reservoir is still full, the pump must be working since it is circulating the water, so i have no idea what i'm doing wrong. as you can see i'm leaning towards the thermostat but even that seems unlikely b/c the temps do come back down which means the thermostat is opening.

[landins13]

if you live somewhere really hott all the time, you can get away with no thermostat. i did that here and it just takes the car a really long time to get warmed up. but it was also 15 degrees outside. soooo the choice is yours. if your car is hitting 260 degrees slap dsm badges on it there is no reason it should get that hott

[landins13]

autometer cobalt. i've never had an issue with the gauge before.

here is a bit more info for those who may be able to help.

s14 sr into s14
fmic
koyo rad
dual fal fans
nismo t-stat
water wetter and 50/50 mix
properly bled the system

1 min on the track hard drifting and bang over heating. now normally i would just idle the car and the temps would come back down to 165 within a few mins but this last time the temps actually crept up. once i noticed it i shut the car off but ran the fans. after 2 mins i turned the car back on to let the water circulate and the temps cam back down quickly to 180 and then gradually back to 165.

there is no leak as the reservoir is still full, the pump must be working since it is circulating the water, so i have no idea what i'm doing wrong. as you can see i'm leaning towards the thermostat but even that seems unlikely b/c the temps do come back down which means the thermostat is opening.


the cobalt gauges work great. my only thought would be the ratio of coolant to water. royal purple makes a coolant additive that drop the temps even further, its almost like freeon for your coolant system.

[Bigsyke]

^^^what did the OEM water temp gauge show? was it in the middle? curious for my own self

[jackal264]

i don't run stock gauges my cluster is all custom. i'm going to try no thermostat at the next event and see how that goes.

[Sileighty_85]

possibly need an oversized W/P pully
at high RPM your probably Cavitaing the system.

[jackal264]

possibly need an oversized W/P pully
at high RPM your probably Cavitaing the system.


thats a good point i wonder if that would solve some of the issue. are any of the oversized pulleys afordable?

[Bigsyke]

possibly need an oversized W/P pully
at high RPM your probably Cavitaing the system.


Wouldnt it be the opposite?


There is no excuse for 260*f, either there is an air pocket forming at the thermostat or your water pump is dying. -which probably would show the opposite due to warm coolant from he engine not flowing to the sending unit.

Your probably boiling coolant in the head thus creating large pockets of air to end up behind the thermostat, preventing it from opening.

[Sileighty_85]

Wouldnt it be the opposite?


Engine (http://stance-usa.com/sus/products/engine)

From stances website on their Oversized W/P Pully
The increase in diameter elminates inertial cavitation which causes inefficient cooling and ultimately overheating. This application is excellent for those high revving track days where maximum cooling is a must. The pulley is designed for use with the stock belt size therefore no modification is needed.

Also OP what type of Rad Cap are you using?

[jackal264]

Engine (http://stance-usa.com/sus/products/engine)

From stances website on their Oversized W/P Pully
The increase in diameter elminates inertial cavitation which causes inefficient cooling and ultimately overheating. This application is excellent for those high revving track days where maximum cooling is a must. The pulley is designed for use with the stock belt size therefore no modification is needed.

Also OP what type of Rad Cap are you using?


koyo 1.3 bar

[Ali 556]

OP,

damn son....remove the T-stat and you will be fine..

My S14 @ 45*C track day with NO t-stat....after 3 rounds (auto-X) the temp get up to 190*C..

On a STOCK Rad and 4x e-fans

2 x Pullers
2 x merceds-benz S500 pusher (ALOT of Air's)..

:squint:

EDIT :

Cooling off @ the parking lot of the Track (check my friend 996 TT)

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa64/brb-/1-7.jpg?t=1207231306

[articdragon192]

Billion t-stat here. Simply the best. I believe Kuah at SPL Parts can get them. I got mine from there.

And isn't it wrong to run a motor without a thermostat? From my understanding, a motor has to run at a certain temperature range doesn't it?

[S14DB]

Billion t-stat here. Simply the best. I believe Kuah at SPL Parts can get them. I got mine from there.

And isn't it wrong to run a motor without a thermostat? From my understanding, a motor has to run at a certain temperature range doesn't it?

Yes it takes a long ass time to heat up. Engines wear abnormally when cold.

[jackal264]

Yes it takes a long ass time to heat up. Engines wear abnormally when cold.


i don't daily my car and my fans are on a switch so i can just shut them off to help it warm up faster.

[Def]

You guys need to properly duct your radiator and run a good undertray if you're having such high water temps.

Stock thermostat here and I hit about 190-195 deg F water temps on track running about 15-16 psi. Oil is about 200-210 deg F with a custom oil cooler setup where the stock window washer reservoir is.

[Bigsyke]

^^^ did you keep the jiggle valve on the OE thermostat?

I clipped mine, however it takes about 3 miles, or 9-10 minutes to reach normal opperating temp with the jiggle valve clipped. About 3x longer that with the jiggle valve in. I did not drill the hole out.

Also ive been told otherwise, but I still have a theory that with my 95% water/watterwetter mix, mishimoto thermostat, the radiators chills the water to the point that when the pressurized stream of chilled water goes through the jiggle valve hole, it throws off the thermostats opening point, thus having a longer delay. I have seen the temps run a little higher on the highway after a while. So it seems the cooler water mixing in the thermostat chamber in the head- the thermostat reads a lower temp than whats really in the head.

Anyone else have this issue? or is the watter wetter/water overly too efficient?

[Def]

I'm just using a stock B13 SR20DE thermostat and a Z32 TT radiator cap(1.2 bar), Koyo Radiator (Al) and dual 12" Flex-a-Lites that I don't even run on the track, just the street. I also go for about a 30/70 to 40/60 glycol/water mixture. Nothing special.

Water wetter increases the convection coefficient(supposedly), so you might be just transferring more heat to the water, hence higher water outlet temps. I'd say it's more a function of running a bit rich/lean and generating more heat than needed under cruising.

[oumu]

You guys need to properly duct your radiator and run a good undertray if you're having such high water temps.

Stock thermostat here and I hit about 190-195 deg F water temps on track running about 15-16 psi. Oil is about 200-210 deg F with a custom oil cooler setup where the stock window washer reservoir is.

Does your setup include ducting and an undertray? Pics?

You never get above 195 deg F while drifting because you don't let it or it just doesn't get that hot? Can you give more details about what "on track" means? Like, is it three laps or half an hour of constant 8000rpm drifting?

What kind of gauge are you using for the temperature reading?

[s13pignose]

I have nismo on ka. Only thing is it takes a while for my temp gauge to reach half after letting it warm up. I mean it gets there..but in the winter seemed like I didn't have much heat coming in the car till I got on the throttle some. Once the temp gauge reached about half I had decent heat, and the less I had to stop I had more than decent. I wonder about my gauge's accuracy though. I could be at half way on the gauge having gone from stop light to stop light. Then once I hit the expressway about a min later..I'm like a 1/4 below half..like it drops quick gradually.

Main thing is I try not to ever get on the car more than 1/2 throttle until gauge reach's half..then I'll do WOT or whatever I feel

[Bigsyke]

why would it take longer to reach normal op temp with a nismo? it should hit the middle mark just as fast as OEM, It has a jiggle valve, there is no opening to let coolant cycle through before 149*f.

[swayray]

Sorry for the typo on our website. Thank you so much for the correction. The nismo thermostat does open at 143.6*F

[Def]

Does your setup include ducting and an undertray? Pics?

You never get above 195 deg F while drifting because you don't let it or it just doesn't get that hot? Can you give more details about what "on track" means? Like, is it three laps or half an hour of constant 8000rpm drifting?

What kind of gauge are you using for the temperature reading?

I have the stock undertray for an S13. Fans on or off doesn't matter. Just cut out the "nose" of the pignose bumper for a little more flow around the FMIC.

I don't drift, this is actually on track driving at WOT for 30 min sessions.

The gauge is a Defi Link water temp gauge, so it's easy to check the peak, and I'm also verified it to be accurate to within a few degree F.

[Bigsyke]

All this talk about your "coolant temp" being at normal op temp, however what about the aluminum? Obviously the temps inside the head wont be exactly whats reading on your temp gauge. I personally would like the thermostat to open at a lower rating to give a bigger window on cooling efficiency, esp when you start adding things like a dual core/pass radiator, swirl tank etc. I also believe its important to have the thermo open up when you start upping comression and removing the EGR system while keeping the timing @ 20*. Stock would be fine if you've kept the clutch fan, however most of us have yanked it and having the thermostat open from 150*+ is perfect for head temps IMO to prevent the aluminum from warping on the cast iron when ambient temps are 90*s+ and engine bay temps are nearly 150*+ .

Only issue I see is the CTS triggering a closed/open loop @ registered X *f temp. I just see a lower temp thermostat a better platform to work around.

Daily driving/traffic the thermostat still opens up @ 150*f, however the OE fans wont kick in untill 203*f, which still provides some sort of normal op temp efficiency, however I have the ability to control the what engine temps stabilize at by having a thermo that opens up sooner -via a switch on cooling fan #1's ground.

Also having a 1.3 cap personally is for when water temps inside the head get well over 250*f if your running 50/50. I personally favor the OE 0.9 cap or at most the Z32 cap since its only used for upping the boiling point, ive had way to many issues with a higher than 1.2bar cap or 19lbs, when your keeping the heater core and OE radiator. Ive never had an issue with boiling over with the OE Z32 and even the 0.9bar cap.

[oumu]

I have the stock undertray for an S13. Fans on or off doesn't matter. Just cut out the "nose" of the pignose bumper for a little more flow around the FMIC.

I don't drift, this is actually on track driving at WOT for 30 min sessions.

The gauge is a Defi Link water temp gauge, so it's easy to check the peak, and I'm also verified it to be accurate to within a few degree F.

I see, my cooling setup is similar but less complete than yours and I drift. My temps could easily reach 100*C (212*F) while drifting if I let them even with the fans on. I assume your setup does better because of the direct constant airflow. I could definitely use some ducting and an oil cooler.