Rebuilding My RB25...Best Parts

[Ali 556]

Posting this for a friend...

Hi,

I'm in the process Rebuilding my Rb25Det out from 1996 R33....I'm going allout with the build...the engine will go into a 1993 R32 GTS-T mostly for drag usage....

I've searched already and didn't get the best answer's...My turbo will be GT3582R....and will rebuild the WHOLE engine for that....(ful rebuild / new T-belt -oil and water pump) ect ect

My qustions :

1- What is the BEST (that you have used) Con.Rods?
2- What is the BEST (that you have used) pistons?
3- Best HG?
4- Best cams suited for the turbo?
5- BC valve train any good? ot\r go with JDM parts?
6- Going for 500-600whp + NOS <-- best clutch/flywheel?
7- Haltech E8 will be used.
8- 1000's DW inj's.
9- will rev to 8000-8700 rpm's
--
Also is there any modes that you guys recommend ? (head / oil / etc )

Regards,

[Z U L8R]

blah @ haltec

i'd go with power fc + msd ignition computer for 2 step but that's just me (you can raise the rev limit plus it's a soft cut rev limiter) plus driveability with power fc is awesome and requires less attention when the weather changes etc etc. power fc kicks ass

i'd go cp pistons and stay 9:1, carillo rods, commetic headgasket + arp head studs, some tomei pon cams (very mild) or stay stock

680cc injectors will be enough

greddy profec b spec 2 or an old 3 knob profec ftmfw

greddy intake manifold /w gizmo phenolic intake gasket

os geiken super single clutch/flywheel combo

n1 water pump

oem oil pump

make sure you get your rods inspected and everything balanced while it's at the machine shop

acl race bearings

if it were my car i'd run water/meth injection as well just so i don't have to fool with race gas. it's convenient but i'd have a bunch of fail safes with the set up (hobs switchs etc)

11-16 gallon fuel cell with sending unit + aeromotive eliminator fuel pump + an aeromotive rising rate adjustable fpr

or just the stock gas tank with a walboro 255 feeding the aeromotive fuel pump

i wouldn't run a gt35 either, i'd run a precision 62mm, it's 1 mm bigger than a 35r, spools up 100 rpm's later than a 35r, but can support 700+hp on a 2wd car. it has a billet aluminum compressor wheel instead of a cast steel wheel like the 35r. basically it's the same as the AMS 850r turbo.

then get the car on our dual eddy mustang dyno and have us tune it since we're apexi power excel dealers and we have the excel software to unlock all the power fc features (aka better tune).

since you can run the 1/4 mile on our dyno we can also tune it for your 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile racing and you will know exactly what it runs within a hundredth of a second.

btw we have a world class machine shop (Grimes) right next door. they have an engine dyno (great for breakin) and 3 generations of racing experience. when you get a minute google hoyt grimes and garry grimes :D
http://www.georgiadragracing.com/photos/persons/person-grimeshoyt.html

anywho.

gl with ur build

Dave @ Lethal Injection Motorsports
770-343-9969

[jamg]

listen to dave.

he would know.

:D

[renegade_ewok]

i'd go cp pistons and stay 9:1, carillo rods, commetic headgasket + arp head studs, some tomei pon cams (very mild) or stay stock
Just wondering why you mention going with a mild cam or staying stock... How aggressive are stock RB cams? Wouldn't something like a 264 with medium lift be beneficial considering he's revving the thing to over 8 grand but maintain driveability? Stock cams kind of lose it up there...

I'm not the RB genius, which is why I'm asking.

[Z U L8R]

first thing is i wouldn't rev it that high

i personally cannot stand aggressive cams.

powerband wins a race more than peak hp numbers. i'd rather have quicker spool and better overall powerband than lose the spool to pick up 20hp between 6000-7000 when my tires are either spinning or right before i need to shift anyways.

i understand on forums such as skylines down under and others like that people are revving their rb's to 20 thousand rpms lol but unless you have the time/money to rebuild your motor after every race/event then get practical.

i'm sure everyone has a friend who has a friend or has seen someone rev their rb to 10000 rpm for 4 years without a problem........riiiiight

anywho. i'm by no means writing in stone that this is what you HAVE to do in order to have a 5-600hp rb25

no one responded to the thread so i figured i'd give a practical method of acheiving the goal.

you can acheive the goal many other ways than what i mentioned and there's nothing wrong with doing it differently or not following everything i said to the T.

i'm not the forum gods who recommend reving ur motor up to 20 million, nor will i be the forum god who won't help pay for ur motor after my advice results in you blowing up your shit

simply put, i'm just offering some suggestions and my opinions to help the OPer

Dave =]

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ I'm totally with ya Dave. As much as I love the rev-happy nature of the RB25, and the fact that it does actually make power up top (as opposed to a stock SR), there's no reason to sacrifice low end and spool for a powerband that peaks at 7000rpm+. Doesn't make the car fun to drive, doesn't make it any faster, and costs a ton because you've got to keep that top end in check.

That being said, no one makes big-lift/medium duration "steet/strip" cams that you've liked for RB's? I'm also building my RB25 right now (stock rotating/recip assy, new bearings, new pumps/pulleys/belts/HG), and was thinking that while the head's off I could throw a few hundred at springs and retainers if I found some good-natured cams that would actually make more power where I need it (3500-7000 I guess). Running the Greddy IM also, so I'm hesitant to jump at the "JDM" long duration/low lift, rather go with a 260/12mm or something, with a big profile to keep the boost down but low overlap for nice transient power.

Please tell me this set of "magic cams" exists lol.

Oh, and I've done a lot of research, and all of Dave's recommendations are considered "the norm" for big-power RB's from the people I've talked to.

[Z U L8R]

until the stock cams are a restriction i'd run them. once that happens i'd go with tomei pon cams nothing over 264's. that's just me.

i just hate aggressive cams, mainly because everyone runs to buy 274's for their sr20 drift car that they're running a 20g turbo on and wondering why it's the most impossible piece of shit to drift. why?? because it makes a ton of power up top and absolutely nothing down low, pretty much once the turbo hits full boost it's time to shift......

so i respectfully say FUCK THAT SHIT :D

this was stock bottom end, stock head, stock cams with just headgasket and studs on my gt30/76r with pump gas (93 octane)
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc313/Z_U_L8R/dyno.jpg

red is low boost 14psi

blue is high boost 20psi , you see 350ft lb of torque from 3700rpm all the way to 6k before it falls off, however it keeps making hp till redline

pink is 20psi old tune with a 3.9 rear end instead of 3.54

besides the pon cams i like kelford cams too but unless i REALLY REALLY had to i would upgrade the springs and retainers way before i upgrade the cams

just my .02

Dave =]