Subframe bushing removel

[s13.dark1]

so how did you remove stock bushings?

ive seen fire used has anyone taked them off differently.

[aznpoopy]

burn it out as much as you can, then cut through the remaining metal collar with a sawzall. be careful not to notch the subframe.

once the metal collar has been cut through, wedge something into the cut to peel the first edge away from the surface. then jam a screw driver (and eventually a pry bar) in there, and go around and pry until you have a good portion of it loose. then hit it with a hammer and it should pop out.

[Marcus]

torch the bushing till its nice and hot.

remove the center sleeve with vice-grips.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll110/samaniego_ms/DSC04859.jpg
CAREFULLY hacksaw the casing. be sure not to cut into the subframe itself.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll110/samaniego_ms/DSC04857.jpg

then use a flat head and a hammer to pound/pry out the bushing.
once the casing is cut, it will collapse and the bushing will pop right out.
it can be done in an hour or two, if you know what you're doing. BUT expect to spend about half an hour on the first one if you've never removed bushings before.

you can use a press, but you can easily deform the subframe.

BTW, did you buy some PSM solid sf risers? they are AWESOMETOWN.

you will feel your diff in your ass

[brndck]

i "taked" them off with fire. then an air chisel for the outer.

[s13.dark1]

fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well.

ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject?

[aznpoopy]

wait. what?

aluminum spacers supplement stock bushings. if you want to use spacers you should retain the stock bushings.

[jholman05]

I did it just like the first two guys who replied did. Took a while but they all came out after a while. I used a delrin subframing bushing that I'm having a hard time finding right now, I think they were around $60 for all four. I love them, after replacing those, all the rest of the bushings with a prothane kit, and having new inner/outer tie rods and front lover ball joints the car handles better than what I would expect from the factory.

[essforteen]

fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well.

ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject?

Uh O!! Your supposed to keep your stock bushings if you use spacers, you remove them if your using solid bushings which are different!!

[s13.dark1]

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

[JeremyR]

just get the PBM subframe risers and call it a day.

[aznpoopy]

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

if you put in new bushings, you don't need the spacers. it's one or the other.

[Marcus]

ohh shit. i think you messed up.

just buy these from them do this and be done.
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll110/samaniego_ms/DSC04837.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll110/samaniego_ms/DSC04862.jpg

cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang

[Wake]

just buy these from them do this and be done.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll110/samaniego_ms/DSC04862.jpg

cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang

daaamnn epileptic much? paint looks clean but thats a damn fuzzy pic. kinda makes me wanna repaint mine tho

[Bigsyke]

Where you get the solid bushings?

OP failed, do not get spacers, even with new OEM because the spacers will just rip the new ones to shreds.

Easy way to remove OEM bushings is heat up area around bushing, along with torching the fcuk out the the rubber, take a nice long hard candle and shove it in and around the metal casing area to penetrate, to further lube the removal of the casings.

If the OEM bushings are still intact, and youve broken the bond with the subframe, you can use a monster cock hammer and a massive socket and pound it out. Use enough lube i.e pbblaster+candle wax and you should beble to pipe that bitch down hard enough to slide the bushing right out.

[aznpoopy]

that looks pretty awesome!
i just por-15'd the subframe i'm going to install. now i'm thinking i should paint it.

[Bumnah]

Burn the bushings out and cut like everyone says. It works pretty well, and is relatively painless.

I had mine sand blasted and powder coated lime green. Link to pics in my sig.

[Marcus]

daaamnn epileptic much? paint looks clean but thats a damn fuzzy pic. kinda makes me wanna repaint mine tho


LOL my bad, i was actually falling while i took that pic. hah


OP:::hope this was of help. what kind of bushings did you buy to replace the old ones?

iirc, the sf spacers only work with oe bushings right?
i got the solid subframe risers from POWEREDBYMAX. they actually push up your subframe and help correct suspension geometry. RUSTOLEUM FTW lol

[johngriff]

Man, replacing the subframe bushings is such a mess, you can do it quick but it really is allot of labor.

and I hate loosing goose rear ends too...

[clark]

I just did this and i removed the stock ones using a torch, but i didn't melt the shit out, you heat up the outside of the subframe so you make the metal hot enough you can loosen the bond between the rubber bushing and metal.

it does take time and patience, but yeah, of course it's gonna take time if you want to do it right and feel accomplished.

too me 7 hours.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_2283.jpg

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_2281.jpg

so just get a regular torch from home depot.

drop the subframe.

just heat up the outside as good as you can with the torch to loosen the bond. just jimmy a screw driver in there and pick it out, again each one takes around an hour.

then get a drill and a wire wheel to buff the inside to remove all the rubber that is still stuck.

LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOOSH AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_2279.jpg

if anyone has a question about this please feel free to PM me, i went through the process recently and it was actually very painless because i had the proper tools and patience.

oh yeah, my rear is friggin TIGHT now.

[s13tilldeath*]

Torch the bitches.
dont use spacers and new bushings. If you want a stiff ride get aluminum bushings ftw.

[johngriff]

7 Hours!

Holy hell, thats a long time..

[Marcus]

7 Hours!

Holy hell, thats a long time..

hell yea thats long. may have been his first time.
got mine out in about an hour.

you dont need to clean the casing of the bushing itself, just enough to get a blade in to cut it.

[jamg]

at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap.

worth it?

[projectRDM]

LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOUCHE AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13.


Same for S14. And Z32.

[murda-c]

Is that just subframe or all the bushings.

[turbo_dreams]

If i do use a solid subframe spacer (pdm), what's the outcome? I already have solid subframe spacers, and my bushings are shot, you guys suggest i just slide the solid spacers in or do the bushings?

[enkei2k]

at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap.

worth it?

does it includes parts and labor? i got a quote for about 300 for labor only. then again, i'm pretty sure he was just messing with me and if i do actually do it, it'll be more lol.

[oneviaman]

i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/32900-32999/32940.gif

[SILVIA_KIDs14.5]

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones
go solid and call it a day never again have to replace them it would though have ben easier to get the bushings pressed out

[clark]

i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/32900-32999/32940.gif

oh shit i gotta get one of those haha.

yeah i mean i'm talking 7 hours start to finish meaning start the clock at jacking the car up, stop the clock at getting the car on all 4 wheels.

i was by myself so it's hard to fenagle the subframe back up there.

yeah i don't know why these poly bushings don't have more popularity. i mean yeah, aluminum ones are awesome, but these are fantastic too.

[clark]

go solid and call it a day never again have to replace them it would though have ben easier to get the bushings pressed out

you're wrong, you can't just "press em out".

this isn't' a control arm bushing or something.

the subrame is massive in relation to things that you normally press bushings in and out of.

energy suspension's published recommendation is to use a torch to heat up the outer casing so the rubber "slides" out. they specifically say NOT to use a press.

[projectRDM]

Agreed. using a press is possible, however you need at minimum a 20 ton model, two other people to help hold the subframe, and prayers that you don't deform the forward mounting points when the load comes down and starts pressing. Torching is far easier.

[DC Dan MAX USA]

IMHO the airsaw is the best because you will die a toxic death burning it.

You can do it with an air saw, you poke the sawblade in the cavity in the OEM bushing and cut a slit in the outer ring OF THE BUSHING being careful not to cut the subframe ring. It helps to saw a little from the top side and a little from the bottom side. Once the slit is cut shove a big flat head screw driver in there and once the tension of the bushing's outer ring is compromised, it just pops right out.

we burned this one out just to show you clearly what you need to cut
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1221095426_2_FT0_p1030614.jpg
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1221095426_2_FT0_p1030616.jpg
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1236132852_2_FT3169_p1040243.jpg
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1241833517_2_FT3169_p1040617.jpg

MAX PRODUCTS FORUM - SUBFRAME RISER (http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?3169.0)

[projectRDM]

No one is going to die a toxic death unless they stand over it and breath while it burns. You torch it, walk away and eat lunch, come back after the fire has gone out. If that worries you, stand a good distance and watch, but it's not like the fire will continue and melt the subframe. It's steel. Have to be a little hotter to do any damage. Once the bushing falls out on it's own you throw a hose on it, done.

[bing]

BFC - big fucking chisel
BFH - big fucking hammer

that is all.

[s13.dark1]

hopefully this thread is helpfull to someone that want isnt really sure and wanted to get info plus pics great job all!

[Lith]

What I did is this; I bought another S14 subframe and I got a local shop to take out the bushings. Then I sandblasted/powder coated the subframe. Got the same shop to press in the new bushings. Also, that included the diff bushings on the subframe (S14's have this, S13's don't).
I ended up paying 100 bucks for the shop to take out the bushings and press in new ones.. and another 100 bucks for sandblasting and powder coating and the subframe was 50 bucks. So that's 250 bucks.. imo, well worth it since this is a quite a bit of work for one person.
Also, the bushings I got are the nismo ones, but I don't recall what I paid for them. Needless to say, car feels much better w/o that lose subframe in the back.

[hegamiz]

hopefully this thread is helpfull to someone that want isnt really sure and wanted to get info plus pics great job all!

hahaha definitely... i haven't gotten that far into my first project, reading this shed some light on what to avoid lol

[drift Kid]

awesome thread.. what should the drifter guys go with that has the welded diff.. my bushing is beyond shot.. solid or regular bushing like the enegry suspension kits.. i really dont want to use spacers..

[s13.dark1]

awesome thread.. what should the drifter guys go with that has the welded diff.. my bushing is beyond shot.. solid or regular bushing like the enegry suspension kits.. i really dont want to use spacers..

go with solid bushings

[Bigsyke]

No one is going to die a toxic death unless they stand over it and breath while it burns. You torch it, walk away and eat lunch, come back after the fire has gone out. If that worries you, stand a good distance and watch, but it's not like the fire will continue and melt the subframe. It's steel. Have to be a little hotter to do any damage. Once the bushing falls out on it's own you throw a hose on it, done.


I had to stand over all 4 because the fire kept going out. I had to use a screw driver and churn the rubber so the flame could be exposed to new rubber.

Thought I was going to die the next day, my sinus's were caked with rubber and everytime I blew my nose it would be pure black goo.

Man and to think im going to have to do that again when i get another S14. Worth it though!

[projectRDM]

I had to stand over all 4 because the fire kept going out. I had to use a screw driver and churn the rubber so the flame could be exposed to new rubber.

Thought I was going to die the next day, my sinus's were caked with rubber and everytime I blew my nose it would be pure black goo.

Man and to think im going to have to do that again when i get another S14. Worth it though!

Fire wasn't hot enough. Use some gas to get it going. It will take care of itself.

[Lev]

Having just done this last weekend, you don't need fire. You don't even need to remove the subframe. Here is how we did it at a mechanic's shop:

1. Unbolt stuff until you can lower two of the subframe bushings clear of the bolts. You need to disconnect stuff but it will not affect your alignment. I believe it was just the coilover, and one l-shaped piece of metal as well as the subframe. I don't remember all the specifict but I do remember that we didn't have to drop the driveshaft or disconnect any control arms (so no need for a new alignment). The driver side we had to drop the back half of the exhaust. One thing to watch out for is that you don't push down too hard on the subframe because you dont' want to snap your brake lines, 2 inches past the bolt should be plenty of room anyway.
2. Once you are clear of the bolt, use a sharp object to pierce the center rubber portion.
3. Use a wood bit on the sawzall to cut out most of the rubber center.
4. Put on a metal bit and cut through both metal cylinders of the subframe bushing, careful as to not cut the subframe ring of course. Three cuts should do it.
5. Run an air chisel up the cuts and the bushing should fall right out as soon as you release tension.
6. Clean out the subframe ring with a course than a fine wire brush
7. If you have poly bushings, which you probably should get (personal opinion though only) they should just slide in. I used PowerFlex Street polyurethane bushings and they slid right in without any lube or anything.

Obviously for this method you need access to a lift or a way to get the rear end up high enough for sawzall clearance and an air chisel. We used an 18v dewalt sawzall so you don't need anything incredibly fancy. The entire job took about 3 hours, but that's because it took until the second bushing to figure out the best way to do it (the first bushing took like 1.5 hours lol).

Edit: This is on an S14 subframe, I don't think the S13 is too different.

[Bigsyke]

^^^Apologies, but that wont work with solids.

[ixfxi]

I had to stand over all 4 because the fire kept going out. I had to use a screw driver and churn the rubber so the flame could be exposed to new rubber.

Thought I was going to die the next day, my sinus's were caked with rubber and everytime I blew my nose it would be pure black goo.

Man and to think im going to have to do that again when i get another S14. Worth it though!

Fire wasn't hot enough. Use some gas to get it going. It will take care of itself.

hahah russ, syke probably was using matches. :-)


seriously, propane torch brotha... its all thats needed.

[Lev]

^^^Apologies, but that wont work with solids.

Didn't know that. Regardless though, unless you are using a bushing that requires a press (OEM I think, but why would you do that? or a solid bushing, which 99% of people don't need) the method that I outlined above will work and will be a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than removing the subframe, disconnecting everything on and around it, burning out the rubber then cutting the metal ring, reinstalling everything and then having to take the car in for alignment (my method doesn't mess with any alignment related arms).