ecu coolant temperature sensor location S14

[MAXIMUS_PR]

quick question where is the ECU coolant temp. sensor

My guess is one of the 2 sensors located where the bleeding screw is but don't know wxactly which one it is need to buy today please help thanks.

[D.Bo]

one is a single prong sensor and thats for the gauge the other is a 2 prong sensor and it for the ecu. i believe 2 prong is the coolant temp sensor. and the single prong one is called the coolant temp switch.

[MAXIMUS_PR]

one is a single prong sensor and thats for the gauge the other is a 2 prong sensor and it for the ecu. i believe 2 prong is the coolant temp sensor. and the single prong one is called the coolant temp switch.

Ok heres another question will this sensor makes the temp gauge working erratically like is overheating when is not?cause it does this 2-3 times a day and car is running ok but when car supposedly overheats the A/C stop working until temp needle goes back to normal this"overheating usually last for 2 minutes,

[s15specR]

Might be a wiring problem if something else other than the gauge is acting up

[Bigsyke]

Its called bubbles in the coolant, or more like air pockets, that will probably end up behind the thermostat causing it not to open, thus over heating your engine.

[MAXIMUS_PR]

its not overheating already check i bleeded the system it was working ok until 3 weeks ago when it started acting weird normally 5 minutes after start up no matter if it is in the morning or whatever time of the day i las t for about 2 minutes and then goes back to normal.I even hooked a temporary temp gauge to see if in fact it was overheating and its not but again it makes the A/C not work for a couple of minutes

[S14DB]

Bleed it again.

[MAXIMUS_PR]

Bleed it again.

car is not overheating please read

[Bigsyke]

I have a snap on bleed kit, I put my car up on ramps on a hill. Depending on the day I can get a nice air pocket once the thermostat opens up. IMO a snap on type bleed kit is the only way to do it. After bleeding my car 100 times w/o it, I have to say even per FSM specs, you will never get the air out. You need the kit. Or swirl tank

OP, its acting up because of pockets of warm air hitting the sensor as it circulates the system. End of story.

[MAXIMUS_PR]

i di something similar using a vacuum test pump same as u did i lifted the front about 20" and it worked perfect.


please don't reply telling how to bleed or how many times i should bleed or something else all i want to knw is if having the ECU coolant sensor bad makes the needle react like its hot and in turn make the A/C shut off

[S14DB]

car is not overheating please read

It's not the sensor please read.


When the sensor fails it fails in one direction usually full cold. Both your sensors ECU and Gauge Cluster are giving an erroneous rating ate the same time. It would be highly improbable for both of them to fail at the same time repeatedly.

You have steam bubbles flash heating your sensors. Ether you didn't bleed it all the way or you have a head gasket failure.

[markapple0507]

I have a snap on bleed kit, I put my car up on ramps on a hill. Depending on the day I can get a nice air pocket once the thermostat opens up. IMO a snap on type bleed kit is the only way to do it. After bleeding my car 100 times w/o it, I have to say even per FSM specs, you will never get the air out. You need the kit. Or swirl tank

OP, its acting up because of pockets of warm air hitting the sensor as it circulates the system. End of story.

where can i get one of these snap on bleed valve kit you speak of?

[Om1kron]

It's not the sensor please read.


When the sensor fails it fails in one direction usually full cold. Both your sensors ECU and Gauge Cluster are giving an erroneous rating ate the same time. It would be highly improbable for both of them to fail at the same time repeatedly.

You have steam bubbles flash heating your sensors. Ether you didn't bleed it all the way or you have a head gasket failure.

LOL I was waiting for this response...

just an fyi if you can get S14DB to post in your thread expect him to throw out a wing and not the whole turkey.

[MAXIMUS_PR]

It's not the sensor please read.


When the sensor fails it fails in one direction usually full cold. Both your sensors ECU and Gauge Cluster are giving an erroneous rating ate the same time. It would be highly improbable for both of them to fail at the same time repeatedly.

You have steam bubbles flash heating your sensors. Ether you didn't bleed it all the way or you have a head gasket failure.
so how comes the temporary temp gauge is reading normal ALL the time including when the one in the dash is all the way in the hot position?
if it is bubbles why it always does it around 5 minutes from start up cold or warm?
i drove 3 straight hours made a stop with out shutting car off for about 30 minutes then drove another hour and the needle never move,next morning at around 36 degrees turned car on and about 3 minutes later needle was in the hot position please don't tell me car overheated that fast.
i know the issues with bleeding the cooling system in these cars already went through that when i replaced the radiator and water pump.

[Bigsyke]

The factory temp sensor (gauge) is just a resistor. If it failed or shorted to ground your shit would be flying around like a stripper at one of my usual gang bangs. Youve got bubbles in your system. Now trust me when I say this, you can create air cavities by driving your car with these conditions;

Not enough water/heat dissapation to wick away the heat from the head, thus boiling the water fast enough durring normal cruising. This is easily caused by a lazy thermostat. You could bleed it for 2 hours one day, the next day you have these huge air pockets, which end up in front of the thermostat usually, thus warping your head - because the thermostat doesnt get actual fluid running across the wax pellet.

Pin hole leak somewhere, which doesnt draw in pure coolant from the reserve, thus it pulls in air.

Your gauges could be acting inconsistant because of the air grouping at the thermostat one day, and then circulating past the gauges the next.

If your OEM sender is in question remove it, and test it via the FSM.

Have your system pressure tested for leaks, hydrocarbons and get a z32 1.2 bar cap. Also check the usual pinging/detonation/higher cylinder temps that could create pockets of steam. Check OEM water pump tension and make sure its not slipping.

All common starting points, because like I said, a faulty sender will not act like how your claiming.

Death to souljaboy

[midnight_rex]

what kind of SR do u have in your s14?

if u have a s13 sr u need to change out the gauge temp sensor with the chassis the motor is in. s14 gauge = s14 gauge temp sensor. s13 gauge = s13 gauge temp sensor.

im having the same problem you are having. ive been bleeding the system so many times and the problem still persist according to the temp gauge. im changing out the sensor today.

there is no need to bleed the system more than 10 times. people always say there is an air pocket in every thread ive seen about overheating problems with an SR. u only need to bleed the system once and make sure u have a resourvor.

when u start the car when the motor is fully cooled down for a long while, does the temp needle start to go up showing the motor is warmed up already within 30 seconds? this is what it does when i start my car lol.

the ECU temp sensor (2 prong sensor) sends a signal to the ecu when its either cold or at warm operating temps. this make the ecu detirmine fuel transport to the motor and idle.

ive replaced my thermostat, water pump, and got 2 fans on my radiator (mishimoto radiator). the gauge still says its over heating within minutes of driving then cool down when slow down to 35mph. im also getting a good aftermarket temp gauge. i never hurts to have one installed.

[MAXIMUS_PR]

what kind of SR do u have in your s14?

when u start the car when the motor is fully cooled down for a long while, does the temp needle start to go up showing the motor is warmed up already within 30 seconds? this is what it does when i start my car lol.


No Sr just stock S14 Ka

Exactly on a mid 30's morning starting the car and needleshowing the car is warm in less than a minute not even my older infiniti !30 with the factory block warmer could do that in a warmer morning

Just replaced the sensor today it was kind of easy but started to rain so i had to push the car inside the garage.So far i started the car maybe 3-4 times and went for a ride and nothing ,before it usually needle started to climb after 1 mile.

[midnight_rex]

so did it fix your problem?

[MAXIMUS_PR]

so did it fix your problem?

can go as far as to say i fix it but so far haven't had the problem after starting the car and driving around

[The Chad]

I had the same problem in my last S14. I wrote it off as a bad temp sensor. I had replaced the Thermostat with a NISMO unit, done a complete coolant flush and checked for leaks...and still gave me false readings. i know all about bubbles and steam pockets so i made sure to do my best to work them all out. In the end I replaced the sending unit for the temp guage and the car was fine. So you shoud be ok now.

I did p/u a little gizmo that you point and click a button and it gives you the temp of whatever you click it at (Fun for any occassions :) ), just to double check temps. Now I just use it on my grille to tell when meat is ready :).

[MAXIMUS_PR]

funny is on my old S13 with SR never bleed the system never overheated

on this S14 when i changed the water pump never bleed either never had a single problem until the neck of the radiator broke cuase looks like overtightened the clamp

i think the issue about bleeding the system is overrated,yes i read the Nissan bulleting and all that but like the other guy pointed every time someone post a problem with overheating the first thing that people start saying is bleed the system if done right there should be no need to bleed the system but a couple of times

[Bigsyke]

Funny you say that because I just broke the neck on my radiator while driving.

[MAXIMUS_PR]

Funny you say that because I just broke the neck on my radiator while driving.that pos is plastic and breaks easily specially if you do like i did and replacing with aluminum one is just a couple more bucks than buying a replacement