khilgers
04-29-2009, 07:41 PM
So I had a bit of an incident at USAIR last fall and unfortunately my front lip was the victim. It is a trust gracer front lip and the material is a very brittle, almost PVC like plastic. It doesn't really flex much before it breaks. Well since I had some experience doing plastic repair when I fixed my side skirts, I figured I could fix the lip in a similar manner.
The method below can be used for bumpers, lips, side skirts, etc. I'm no expert on this, but it has worked for me in the past and I was happy with how everything turned out.
This is the part I started with, which was originally 6 pieces.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip1_2.jpg
Step 1
Pick up some plastic weld epoxy. This can be found at most auto parts stores. I got mine from NAPA for about $6. It is a 2 part epoxy that once mixed will form a bond with incredible strength. For my application I used about 7 tubes of this.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip1.jpg
Step 2
Prep each joint by filing down the edge to about a 45 degree angle. This will help with speading out the epoxy and getting the most surface area for the repair to bond to. I chose to use a 12" flat file, it worked really well and rather quickly. Also sand around each joint about 2" so that you are bonding plastic to plastic. I chose to use 80 grit to start with and I also sand the back of each joint. If you have a crack that you are fixing, I like to drill a small 1/8" hole at the end of the crack to help minimize the chance of the crack spreading after the repair has been made.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip2.jpg
Step 3
When joining 2 pieces I chose to use a couple zipties to temporarily hold the part in place while I apply the epoxy. Squeeze out the plastic epoxy onto some cardboard or something similar. Mix the 2 parts together and you will have about 2 minutes to work with until it starts setting up. Once you get the initial epoxy put on, let it setup, then you can remove the zipties and finish filling the joint.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip3.jpg
Step 4
Make sure to also epoxy the back of the part. I chose to lay it on pretty heavy where I can. Most of the front lip doesn't actually touch the bumper so I was lucky there.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip4.jpg
Step 5
In spots where the repair WILL NOT be noticed I like to drill some holes, run zipties through it, then epoxy right over it. This adds a good amount of strength and it won't really be seen.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip5.jpg
Step 6
This is pretty much where it really sucks. Now all the extra epoxy needs to be sanded smooth and blended in. I like to start out with 80 grit to get the majority of the extra epoxy. The first sanding you just want to get it smooth again, and you will be doing several small skim coats to get it perfectly smooth. I used a flexible 6" body filler spatula thing and it worked out great. Once you have it all smooth you can step up to the 120 grit. Sand the entire part smooth, filling in any imperfections with more skim coats of the epoxy. Eventually you will go up to 220 grit, then eventually to 400 grit wet sand. Once that's all done, you will have something like this. Keep in mind that just these 2 joints took me about 5 hours to fix. Throw some primer on it and it's ready to go.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip6.jpg
This took me about 15 hours to fix and it will be painted on sunday, thanks to my sponsor Underground Paintwerks.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip7.jpg
The method below can be used for bumpers, lips, side skirts, etc. I'm no expert on this, but it has worked for me in the past and I was happy with how everything turned out.
This is the part I started with, which was originally 6 pieces.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip1_2.jpg
Step 1
Pick up some plastic weld epoxy. This can be found at most auto parts stores. I got mine from NAPA for about $6. It is a 2 part epoxy that once mixed will form a bond with incredible strength. For my application I used about 7 tubes of this.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip1.jpg
Step 2
Prep each joint by filing down the edge to about a 45 degree angle. This will help with speading out the epoxy and getting the most surface area for the repair to bond to. I chose to use a 12" flat file, it worked really well and rather quickly. Also sand around each joint about 2" so that you are bonding plastic to plastic. I chose to use 80 grit to start with and I also sand the back of each joint. If you have a crack that you are fixing, I like to drill a small 1/8" hole at the end of the crack to help minimize the chance of the crack spreading after the repair has been made.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip2.jpg
Step 3
When joining 2 pieces I chose to use a couple zipties to temporarily hold the part in place while I apply the epoxy. Squeeze out the plastic epoxy onto some cardboard or something similar. Mix the 2 parts together and you will have about 2 minutes to work with until it starts setting up. Once you get the initial epoxy put on, let it setup, then you can remove the zipties and finish filling the joint.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip3.jpg
Step 4
Make sure to also epoxy the back of the part. I chose to lay it on pretty heavy where I can. Most of the front lip doesn't actually touch the bumper so I was lucky there.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip4.jpg
Step 5
In spots where the repair WILL NOT be noticed I like to drill some holes, run zipties through it, then epoxy right over it. This adds a good amount of strength and it won't really be seen.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip5.jpg
Step 6
This is pretty much where it really sucks. Now all the extra epoxy needs to be sanded smooth and blended in. I like to start out with 80 grit to get the majority of the extra epoxy. The first sanding you just want to get it smooth again, and you will be doing several small skim coats to get it perfectly smooth. I used a flexible 6" body filler spatula thing and it worked out great. Once you have it all smooth you can step up to the 120 grit. Sand the entire part smooth, filling in any imperfections with more skim coats of the epoxy. Eventually you will go up to 220 grit, then eventually to 400 grit wet sand. Once that's all done, you will have something like this. Keep in mind that just these 2 joints took me about 5 hours to fix. Throw some primer on it and it's ready to go.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip6.jpg
This took me about 15 hours to fix and it will be painted on sunday, thanks to my sponsor Underground Paintwerks.
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/lip7.jpg