kodama
04-23-2009, 03:26 PM
I am selling my paradise blue K20a powered Spyder. It looks like Im going to be trying to open a business soon and need money to start so I have some sacrifices I need to make. This car was featured in Super Street, here is a link to the article.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/fe...swap/index.html (http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/2004_toyota_mr2_spyder_spyder_k2o_engine_swap/index.html)
I bought the car with so many mods done to it, its hard to keep track of everything. Here are a list of mods that I believe to be correct:
Engine:
JDM ITR K20a
AEM standalone EMS
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Hytech Header
Hytech Twinloop Exhaust 2.5in
Custom 3in Intake
RBC Intake Manifold
190 LPH High Flow Fuel Pump
JDM ITR Transmission
ACT Clutch
Custom Axles
Chassis:
JDM ITR Gear Type LSD
Tein coilovers
Saner 1inch 3 Way Adjustable Front Sway Bar
Saner Front Endlinks
TTE 3 Way Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Two's-R-us Rear Endlinks
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings
Corky Skid Plate
Che Adjustable Control Arms
Che Adjustable Trailing Arms
Che Adjustable Track Arms
Brakes:
Carbotech XP8 Pads Front and Rear
TiC Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid
Exterior:
BRS Auto Design Front Lip
3m Clear Bra
ViS TRD Replica Stage 1 Sideskirts
ViS TRD Replica Stage 1 Rear Spoiler
JDM OE Hardtop
MK1 Eagle Emblem
JDM Celica Sidemarkers
Painted Headlight Housings
Tinted Foglights
Hasegawa lug nuts
Work Emotion CR Cai in Bronze 16x7 (f) 17x8
Falken Azenis rt-615 215/45-16 (f) 235/40-17
Interior:
MK1 Eagle Steering Wheel Emblem
B&M Short Shifter
STi 6-Speed Shift Knob
Sony m630 Headunit
3M window tint
Misc:
Speed Source Brass Shifter Bushings
Odyssey 11lb. Battery
Corky Battery Tray
Hasport Transmission Mount
Polyurethane Engine Mount Inserts
Removed Softtop
I know on Church's dyno it said it made 238whp but we all know how high their dyno's read. When I got it here without changing anything it dyno'd 199whp corrected on a dynojet. When I switched over to the AEM instead of the Hondata and had my local tuner tune it, we ended up with 210whp corrected. It is noticeably faster now than on the previous tune. The car is absolutely amazing to drive.
The bad:
1) There is a battery drain coming from somewhere that I haven't tried to locate, I just use the battery shut off so it doesn't drain the battery. Somewhere when the wiring was done, they hooked up something to the power instead of ignition and it constantly puts a drain on the battery.
2) There is no a/c although the lines are still there and probably wouldn't be too hard to hook up for somebody with some know how and either a 2zz compressor and a custom bracket or a k20 compressor and custom lines.
3) There are no cats on the car so you will need to slip somebody an extra couple bucks to get it to pass emissions or build another exhaust. I have not tried to tune it well enough without the cats to make it pass so Im not sure how easy that would be. People in CA, good luck.
4) The body is in immaculate condition minus the scrape on the bottom of the d/s side skirt and bottom of the front lip. There are extremely minor scratches on the rear bumper, but everything else is amazing.
5) The engine has an oil leak. Its not real severe and I honestly haven't really even looked where its coming from but I did an oil change(mobil 1 syn.) when I first got the car and added a half a quart after about 2,000 miles.
6) After I installed the AEM and got a new tune, the car does not fire up immediately. It takes a few seconds but always fires. I haven't had a chance to bring it back to my tuner to try and work that out.(maybe I will soon)
7) One of the knobs on the top of the rear coilovers is missing so you can't adjust that shock. I haven't looked into it, but I bet Tein could fix it up for cheap.
I would like to get $22,000 for the car. Blue book on it is now at about $16,000 if it were bone stock. There is over $25,000 worth of extra money put into this car and it shows. Thats only $6,000 extra for a hardtop(that sells for 3k-4k) and a full K20a swap that would cost between $6k and $12k to replicate(depending on labor) plus all the extras on the car.
Email me at [email protected] with questions or call or text me at 505-259-9961.
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/9841/1020389.jpg
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2397/dsc0003copy.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/4573/img6512.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3623/img6514.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5677/unmx.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4834/1010231.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6403/1010232.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4255/1010233.jpg
http://www.superstreetonline.com/fe...swap/index.html (http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/2004_toyota_mr2_spyder_spyder_k2o_engine_swap/index.html)
I bought the car with so many mods done to it, its hard to keep track of everything. Here are a list of mods that I believe to be correct:
Engine:
JDM ITR K20a
AEM standalone EMS
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Hytech Header
Hytech Twinloop Exhaust 2.5in
Custom 3in Intake
RBC Intake Manifold
190 LPH High Flow Fuel Pump
JDM ITR Transmission
ACT Clutch
Custom Axles
Chassis:
JDM ITR Gear Type LSD
Tein coilovers
Saner 1inch 3 Way Adjustable Front Sway Bar
Saner Front Endlinks
TTE 3 Way Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Two's-R-us Rear Endlinks
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings
Corky Skid Plate
Che Adjustable Control Arms
Che Adjustable Trailing Arms
Che Adjustable Track Arms
Brakes:
Carbotech XP8 Pads Front and Rear
TiC Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid
Exterior:
BRS Auto Design Front Lip
3m Clear Bra
ViS TRD Replica Stage 1 Sideskirts
ViS TRD Replica Stage 1 Rear Spoiler
JDM OE Hardtop
MK1 Eagle Emblem
JDM Celica Sidemarkers
Painted Headlight Housings
Tinted Foglights
Hasegawa lug nuts
Work Emotion CR Cai in Bronze 16x7 (f) 17x8
Falken Azenis rt-615 215/45-16 (f) 235/40-17
Interior:
MK1 Eagle Steering Wheel Emblem
B&M Short Shifter
STi 6-Speed Shift Knob
Sony m630 Headunit
3M window tint
Misc:
Speed Source Brass Shifter Bushings
Odyssey 11lb. Battery
Corky Battery Tray
Hasport Transmission Mount
Polyurethane Engine Mount Inserts
Removed Softtop
I know on Church's dyno it said it made 238whp but we all know how high their dyno's read. When I got it here without changing anything it dyno'd 199whp corrected on a dynojet. When I switched over to the AEM instead of the Hondata and had my local tuner tune it, we ended up with 210whp corrected. It is noticeably faster now than on the previous tune. The car is absolutely amazing to drive.
The bad:
1) There is a battery drain coming from somewhere that I haven't tried to locate, I just use the battery shut off so it doesn't drain the battery. Somewhere when the wiring was done, they hooked up something to the power instead of ignition and it constantly puts a drain on the battery.
2) There is no a/c although the lines are still there and probably wouldn't be too hard to hook up for somebody with some know how and either a 2zz compressor and a custom bracket or a k20 compressor and custom lines.
3) There are no cats on the car so you will need to slip somebody an extra couple bucks to get it to pass emissions or build another exhaust. I have not tried to tune it well enough without the cats to make it pass so Im not sure how easy that would be. People in CA, good luck.
4) The body is in immaculate condition minus the scrape on the bottom of the d/s side skirt and bottom of the front lip. There are extremely minor scratches on the rear bumper, but everything else is amazing.
5) The engine has an oil leak. Its not real severe and I honestly haven't really even looked where its coming from but I did an oil change(mobil 1 syn.) when I first got the car and added a half a quart after about 2,000 miles.
6) After I installed the AEM and got a new tune, the car does not fire up immediately. It takes a few seconds but always fires. I haven't had a chance to bring it back to my tuner to try and work that out.(maybe I will soon)
7) One of the knobs on the top of the rear coilovers is missing so you can't adjust that shock. I haven't looked into it, but I bet Tein could fix it up for cheap.
I would like to get $22,000 for the car. Blue book on it is now at about $16,000 if it were bone stock. There is over $25,000 worth of extra money put into this car and it shows. Thats only $6,000 extra for a hardtop(that sells for 3k-4k) and a full K20a swap that would cost between $6k and $12k to replicate(depending on labor) plus all the extras on the car.
Email me at [email protected] with questions or call or text me at 505-259-9961.
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/9841/1020389.jpg
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2397/dsc0003copy.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/4573/img6512.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3623/img6514.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/5677/unmx.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4834/1010231.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6403/1010232.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4255/1010233.jpg