Z32 E-brake question

[Rittmeister]

Getting ready to install this stuff over the weekend. I ended up with the longer kingpin/spindle thing, whatever it's called, at the top of the assembly, that holds the hub/backing plate to the knuckle, with a big 24mm nut.

My kingpin is intended for a hub with the tab and matching hole. My hubs do NOT have the tab. I know I can use a spacer or washers - my question is, has anyone found something that works as a convenient spacer? I'm afraid that washers would have to be ground down to fit within the space available and not hit the inside of the rotor.

Any help appreciated.

[Bumnah]

When I installed the king pin, I went to Lowes and found a washer with a big enough clearance in the center. I then traced the shape of the king pin around the washer. I cut the washer to the shape of the king pin. I put the washers under the king pin, it spaced my king pin out properly; e-brake works great.

[94_240sx]

It's called Anchor Bolt. You can cut the top of z32 hub and use it as a spacer, use z32 hub with spacer attached or fabricate with something else. I did the swap too and kept the 4 lug hub. My z32 e-brake assembly was NOT the right one, so I had to track down correct anchor bolts. You need the one on the right side.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p112/sxj6151/NICO/IMG_0001.jpg

You can cut the top of the hub and use it or swap yours with this hub.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p112/sxj6151/NICO/IMG_4493.jpg


You are having this problem because Nissan made 2 different versions of hub.http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o107/Silvia_Convertible/spacer2.jpg

[projectRDM]

I always use a pair of rear ball joint jam nuts. They fit perfectly and are the right height.

[Bumnah]

I have the king pin on the left. So I made a washer to work for that king pin. Just to clarify.

[Rittmeister]

It's called Anchor Bolt. You can cut the top of z32 hub and use it as a spacer, use z32 hub with spacer attached or fabricate with something else. I did the swap too and kept the 4 lug hub. My z32 e-brake assembly was NOT the right one, so I had to track down correct anchor bolts. You need the one on the right side.

You are having this problem because Nissan made 2 different versions of hub

Um, I know there are two different hubs. That's why I keep talking about the type with the tab, and those without.

Obviously I could use the hub with the tab. I'm trying to avoid sourcing another set of hubs, or another set of kingpins/anchor bolts.

I was about to ask why the hell I'd cut up a perfectly good set of Z hubs with the tabs, if I was in possession of those hubs, when I realized that you could do that if you were staying 4-lug. My car's been 5-lug for a while and I'm just now getting to the rear brakes.

I always use a pair of rear ball joint jam nuts. They fit perfectly and are the right height.

I guess you just jam them under the wings of the anchor bolt, and they're held by tension only? I'm not sure I'd want to do that. Not likely that things would loosen up, but if they did you'd have those two nuts rattling around inside the drum brake and hub assembly, not good.

I have the king pin on the left. So I made a washer to work for that king pin. Just to clarify.

I'll look into your solution. I was hoping to find some kind of one-piece item to use as a spacer (maybe a piece of black iron pipe, cut to the right size) but the washers ground down on the sides should serve just as well.

[projectRDM]

I guess you just jam them under the wings of the anchor bolt, and they're held by tension only? I'm not sure I'd want to do that. Not likely that things would loosen up, but if they did you'd have those two nuts rattling around inside the drum brake and hub assembly, not good.

I'll look into your solution. I was hoping to find some kind of one-piece item to use as a spacer (maybe a piece of black iron pipe, cut to the right size) but the washers ground down on the sides should serve just as well.

So you don't mind using pipe or washers, but jam nuts could rattle loose? Great logic there. The torque on the kingpin will not allow for anything to loosen, especially since it's a lock nut and does not back off under any load. Plus with the hub there the nuts wouldn't have anywhere to go if it did happen to loosen.

But don't trust me. I've only done a couple dozen like that and never had an issue. Washers are a worse idea since they *could* slide out and fall down into the brake shoes or springs, being less thick and easier to get free. None of that will ever happen though unless the kingpin nut is just finger tight.

[Rittmeister]

Maybe I don't understand then. When you say ball-joint jam nuts, I think of items that won't fit around the shank of the anchor bolt, but would only be held in, one on each side between the "wings" of the anchor bolt and the backing plate, by tightening the anchor bolt/nut. I've never held a ball-joint jam nut in my hand, maybe it's a lot bigger than I think and would fit around the bolt rather than beside the bolt, so to speak.

Pipe and/or washers would fit around the bolt. If by some freak accident the bolt loosened, they'd still be captured around the bolt, and wouldn't be able to move around inside the assembly. If the bolt came out far enough to let the washers escape I'd have much bigger problems to worry about, as it would also be necessary for the wheel and brake rotor to fall off for that to happen.

I'm sorry if I misunderstood you. The sarcasm really wasn't necessary.

[projectRDM]

They are fitted underneath the 'wings' of the pin, one on each side. It works fine. Washers in the way you're thinking would be hard to find that size and need heavy modification to fit. Although I don't disagree that's a good option, there's an easier, cheaper option that works just as good.

[Rittmeister]

Well, I just got back from the hardware store with some washers that look like they'll work without even needing modification, heavy or otherwise. Even if I have to shave them it shouldn't take long with an angle grinder. They fit right into the backing plate with no changes; all I have to do is make sure they don't hang up the rotor, but since it's all behind the level of the drum brake shoes I presume it won't be a problem. I'll try to post pics later.

I wish I knew the exact thickness of the tab on the hubs that have it; that would be helpful info, but for now I'll have to make an educated guess.

[kevinphan]

I installed mine and when I pull the line the locking mechanism I don't know the name of it doesn't really do much, can someone explain to me how it all works?

[Bumnah]

It's been a while since I opened up the ebrake assembly. The cable runs to one of the shoes. When the parking lever is pulled, it pushes one of the shoes out (canti-lever system) and it rubs against the drum of the rotor. The second shoe is connected to the first shoe with a spring. When shoe 01 extends, it causes shoe 02 to extend, effectively making both rub against the drum of the rotor.

The adjustment bolt at the bottom control how far away from the drum the shoes sit. The way i adjusted it, is to extend the shoe too far out so the drum/rotor can't seat properly, and then keep dialing the shoes back until the drum/rotor clear. A couple more click to extend the shoes out, and they sit very close to the drum but they are not engaged; unless ofcourse you pull the ebrake lever and they engage nicely.

As far as the washer, it took me a few minutes at Lowes to find one that worked. It wasn't a metric washer, but close enough. I made a few cuts and it sat in the assembly cleanly. If my memory serves me right, I used 2 washers per side. Gave me the perfect clearance.

HIH.
Bumnah.

[ReLevent1]

I always use a pair of rear ball joint jam nuts. They fit perfectly and are the right height.

rear jam nuts from what? and what size?

[SoSideways]

Ritt did you ever go to importnut.net and check out their 300zx brake swap guild?

That guy has a really awesome write up, with pics of everything.

See if you could find the answer there.

[projectRDM]

rear jam nuts from what? and what size?

The ball joint. That's why I said rear ball joint jam nuts.

[94_240sx]

Ritt did you ever go to importnut.net and check out their 300zx brake swap guild?

That guy has a really awesome write up, with pics of everything.

See if you could find the answer there.

No, they used correct anchor bolts, so modification or spacers mentioned.

[ReLevent1]

The ball joint. That's why I said rear ball joint jam nuts.

so you used the castle nuts from the rear lca's balljoint

[projectRDM]

so you used the castle nuts from the rear lca's balljoint

It's a jam nut on the rear, not a castle nut. But yes, that's what I always use.

[Rittmeister]

Got several recommendations for using any Nissan axle washers, stacked two per anchor bolt.

I didn't have any spare Nissans laying around to steal the washers from so I hit up the hardware store, anchor bolt in hand. Five minutes later I had an almost exact match. They're either 3/4" or 7/8", I'm not sure, but they fit the bolt perfectly, fit inside the rim of the backing plate, are pretty much the same as the axle washers in thickness and slightly less in outside diameter (which just made them fit more easily), and worked great when putting my assemblies together.

I'm betting you can get them anywhere, since they're not even metric. I stacked two on each side, adjusted the shoes per the FSM. Now all I need is for the guy on Nico who makes the adapter brackets for the e-brake cables to hurry up and send them to me.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Quick Q, is there any other way to tighten the E-brake cable other than the adjustment nut on the handle? Reason Im asking is, I want my ebrake to be tighter so I dont have to yank it so high but I checked the adjustment and it looks pretty maxed out.

[Rittmeister]

The splined thing at the bottom of the assembly will adjust it. There's a hole in the rotor, you can stick a flat head screwdriver through the hole and spin it. You're supposed to adjust it until the shoes touch the rotor (it won't move, or it'll be hard to move), then rotate it back 5 or so splines, so the shoes ride just inside the rotor hat without touching it.

There's decent pics/procedure in the Z32 FSM, which I downloaded somewhere, can't remember where I found it.

[UNISA JECS]

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20090507-204245.gif

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20090507-204232.gif

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20090507-204000.gif

[fliprayzin240sx]

Hmm...I always thought that thing is used to help you pop off the rotor, didnt know you can actually use that to adjust the tension on the cable.

So if my lever adjustment is maxed out, can I loosen that and tighten more of the slack at the rotor adjuster to take more of the slack?