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View Full Version : S14 SR Zenki in S13, no fuel.


yabeet
03-20-2009, 01:35 AM
I just finished up tonight and tried to get the thing running. I have comp, spark and my fuel pump is working for sure, I think the injectors the ones holding this up.

Grounds attached:

2 on the firewall.
1 on the lower fuse box.
1 by coolant overflow tank.

Wiring has been prof done by a guy locally. Fuel pump fuse is good....

What other little things can I check? Havent played with the CAS yet, but I want to wait a little before playing with it until I have to.

Thanks for any input! :)

GSXRJJordan
03-20-2009, 01:47 AM
easy CAS check is to put a test light/multimeter across the injector plugs and turn the CAS by hand - should flash... that's what the FSM says to do in order to check injector signals.

yabeet
03-20-2009, 01:58 AM
easy CAS check is to put a test light/multimeter across the injector plugs and turn the CAS by hand - should flash... that's what the FSM says to do in order to check injector signals.

Do the injector plugs one at a time, or doesnt it really matter to check them all?
Sorry Im not that much of a wiring guy...

GSXRJJordan
03-20-2009, 02:30 AM
put a voltage lead across one injector's pins (test light, or multimeter set to 12V), and look for voltage spikes when you turn the CAS.

yabeet
03-20-2009, 11:52 PM
Update:

I had power to my injectors all along. Turned out to be the relays. Now I am getting fuel, I have a 255lph pump I just put in.

So Im trying to start it tonight, and it sounds like oohhh-so--close to catching its ridiculous.
First I changed ECU's to my bros one to make sure. I also ran codes on both, code 55 each time - no codes.
I changed the igniter just for the hell of it. Checked for spark in all four plugs/coilpacks, good. Fuel is going into all 4 cylinders. Fuel lines are the correct way.

Checked all grounds for resistance, all around .07ohms. I did happen to backprobe an injector hat ground and the resistance was around 50ohms [yes 50 not 5.0] but as I went to the injector grounds [the two bolted into the manifold] they read .07ohms. But the injectors still ended up firing.

Then I start to twist the cas while cranking, and it seemed crazy close to catching, it was agonizing. Cas seems like it wants to sit around the middle of the adjustment for it.
Maf is good, taken from my bros car to borrow ;).... but Im sure that wont matter anyways.
No vac leaks anywhere.

I havent checked if the cas is lined up tdc with the dots yet but it sounded incredibly close to starting.

Every now and then I would pull the plugs and clean them up and pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it to help get rid of the built up fuel quicker from the cylinders.

I heard from a local guy here mention that if you have spark your cas is functioning correctly, is this statement true?

Any other ideas guys? Thanks for any more input.

GSXRJJordan
03-21-2009, 01:36 AM
Spark and injectors, CAS is working. You're sure the harness is good? The car should start and idle with no MAF, TPS, etc so those shouldn't be the prob. If your CAS wiring is off, you'd get all that and still not start.

yabeet
03-21-2009, 11:21 AM
Spark and injectors, CAS is working. You're sure the harness is good? The car should start and idle with no MAF, TPS, etc so those shouldn't be the prob. If your CAS wiring is off, you'd get all that and still not start.

When I was turning the cas while cranking the car I could hear the difference of it almost starting up when the cas was around the middle. Im going to try again today and see how it goes.

yabeet
03-21-2009, 11:58 AM
Hmm this sounds like my problem in the bottom post of this thread:
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/242809-sr20-has-spark-fuel-no-start.html

Im going to go check today.... hopefully my cas is set to the exhaust tdc instead of the comp tdc. I hope to post later with a success story fellas! :hyper:

yabeet
03-21-2009, 08:01 PM
Well turned out to be the CAS timing. When I cranked it, started up beautifully.... no vtc tick either. :bigok: Sounds a lot smoother than my bros car.

When I checked the old timing, whoever last did it set the marking to the rivet, not the dots.

For anyone interested here is the page to correctly time your cas:

http://www.teamgeko.com/17d90840.jpg

Timing should be set to 15 degrees fyi.