Need a new clutch

[Kaifd3s]

Alright guys, I figured it's time I need a clutch before something bad happens. Its the factory clutch, now I already chose what clutch Im going to go with (Exedy Stage 1) and a what flywheel (Fidanza 12lb). Now what are some suggestions as to what I should replace while everything is out, so I dont have to worry about in the future.

I was thinking you guys could give me a list. Thanks, Ali.

[bigboto_boy]

it will be a good idea to change ur rear main seal out
mines leaking from there so ima change it when i get the chance to replace my clutch

[drifter_for_life06]

most the stuff that is a good idea to replace comes with a clutch kit. But other than that, id say the rear main if its leaking, and maybe the slave

[Ceepo]

the clutch pivot ball, with a nismo one, this thing, dont want it snapping off...

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-1164098593086_2042_51402958

And the rear main seal would be a good idea...

[drifter_for_life06]

i personally only think you need the nismo pivot if you do a lot of hard clutch kicks or launches. But it is a good safety measure if you are already in there

[Kaifd3s]

I was checking out FRsport.com and was wondering if I need the "Crankshaft Clutch Pilot Bushing Bearing"

Nissan OEM Crankshaft Clutch Pilot Bushing Bearing (http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-OEM-Crankshaft-Clutch-Pilot-Bushing-Bearing_p_12514.html)

Also should I just put a new Clutch Master? I think mine is leaking or something because the clutch fluid in there is totally black.

[drifter_for_life06]

if its leaking replace it. Your clutch kit you ordered doesnt come with a pilot bushing? If you are upgrading/buying a new pilot bearing contact MA-Motorsports (Brian W. here on zilvia about theirs)

[S14DB]

i personally only think you need the nismo pivot if you do a lot of hard clutch kicks or launches. But it is a good safety measure if you are already in there

Pulling a bunch of transmissions at the junkyard I saw a lot that were cracked or broken.

I would do:
TOB
Input Bushing
Nismo Pivot
Rear Main Seal

Some kits don't come with the first 2 or an Alignment tool.

SC/MC rebuilds should be done together. Once you rebuild one the other will most likely fail after it gets more pressure than the other. You can do both at anytime. Not just when you replace the clutch.

[Kaifd3s]

Thanks for the advice.

[opponheimer]

If you have an SR loosen lower bolt on front motor mounts as much as possible without removing nut, then remove exhaust but leave downpipe on engine. shove a block of wood between downpipe and floorboard and that will give you a nice angle to get the transmission off/on.


Instead of getting the nismo pivot, just shim the stock one with a thin washer if you want the cheaper route.

Rear main seal is a good idea... if your tranny makes noise while the clutch is not depressed replace your input carrier bearing too.

Throw a magnetic transmission plug in there they really work well (way better than magnetic motor oil drain pan plugs)..

Dont put the top two bolts back in if SR (you don't really need them)


Make sure your tranny is in neutral when you reinstall if having trouble reinstall, shimmy it and have a butt-buddy turn the splined shaft.

[S14DB]

Throw a magnetic transmission plug in there they really work well (way better than magnetic motor oil drain pan plugs)..
There should be a Magnetic drain in the Transmission stock.

[palmdale_mob]

If you haven't bought it yet Mazworx_Sales has both for like $550 shipped
$250 for clutch and $300 for flywheel

To answer your question tob, pilot bearing, maybe rear main seal

[lightsource]

i personally only think you need the nismo pivot if you do a lot of hard clutch kicks or launches. But it is a good safety measure if you are already in there

That's what I thought, I almost NEVER did it and it just happened to me... Ruined me for 3 days.

I personally say while you're down there.... Might as well.

Also, yes, replace/rebuild your Master & Slave Cylinders @ the same time. as S14DB suggested. You can either go with Nismo (Slave Cyl) or a local auto-supply place. I've bought two Slave Cylinders, 1 was before my fork pivot went out, I decided to just buy another one it only cost me about $10. But if you go with a Nismo Slave Cyl that'll run you $170 (http://www.phase2motortrend.com/nisslavcyl.html) and I don't really know how good it is because I can't afford $170 on a slave cyl.

I also suggest a steel braided clutch line, I don't know if you got Auto to Manual conv. or it was stock Manual, if it was you can get the regular steel braided, if not then get the auto to manual line.

Auto to Manual - Circuit Sports Auto to Manual Clutch Line (http://www.phase2motortrend.com/cispautomacl.html)
Manual - Circuit Sports Steel Braided Clutch Lines S13/S14 (http://www.phase2motortrend.com/eastcllis1.html)

From personal experience, I say definitely change out all of your clutch hydraulics, huge difference, you can feel your clutch rather than some finicky pedal that disengages at the floor.