How do you adjust more camber upfront if its max??

[nisans13turbo]

I want to know how people set there front cambers to -5 +

My front camber plates are maxed and my front wheels are barely cambered in where some cars here has mad front camber and I know its way more cambered than what im at.

Unless theres a special camber plate to go more negative.

My chasis is straight, never been in any stupid crash etc....Has also been align once and all specs are good.

I just want it to clear my fender so that I wouldnt have to pull my front fenders and maybe theres something that I should know.

Thanks

[rbpowerds14]

spl flca or slot the upper mount holes.

[drifter_for_life06]

see my post in this thread...works GREAT

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/241657-more-camber-front.html

[MrFixIt]

I know a few guys run S14 FLCA's on S13's and can get some pretty crazy camber.

[juggernaut1]

Excentric camber bolts.

Run two excentric bolts in the upper and lower bolts holes (Whiteline sells these bolts) together with something like Noltec camber/castor top mounts for extreme camber.

[nisans13turbo]

see my post in this thread...works GREAT

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/241657-more-camber-front.html

Looks liek a great idea but I dont have access to an welder.

Excentric camber bolts.

Run two excentric bolts in the upper and lower bolts holes (Whiteline sells these bolts) together with something like Noltec camber/castor top mounts for extreme camber.

I dont understand what you acutally mean.

I saw a post where it said (But I do know/heard to get more camber is that some people use a 12mm bolt on the bottom mount of the coilover. Sorry don't know what's it called, but the 2 bolts that are 14mm on the lower bracket. Use a 12mm bolt on the top with both bolt semi loose push the top of the coilover in and tighten. I don't know how much more camber it will give you but it will give you more than what you have now)

someone explain to me please or atleast show some pictures :)

THanks

[slider2828]

Lower FLCA is safest.... SPL or Ikeya Formula FLCA

[drifter_for_life06]

if you really cant find anyone with a welder, then i suppose new arms is your best bet. However, for the price of the arms + Shipping + time to install them...it would be far more cost/time efficient to just drive to a shop and ahve them weld it for you. It shouldnt take but a half hour for both sides. And it will be at least 1/4 of the price of new arms

[Matej]

Adding negative camber with control arms will actually push the wheels out more, which is the opposite of what the OP wants.
If you really want to make your wheels fit the fenders by cambering them in, you will have to slot the coilovers.
Some slot the strut tower holes instead, but personally I'd rather cut into the coilovers than the chassis.

[drifter_for_life06]

you can only do so much with just notching the coilovers, as the adjusting nuts come in contact with the shock tower. It helps some to just do the coilovers, but then the limiting factor are those adjusters. You could just use 2 instead of 4, but that doesnt seem safe to me. Once you notch the tower, all that is stopping you from even more camber is the main strut nut coming in contact with the tower.

[Matej]

What I was talking about is slotting the upper hole on the bracket.

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp99/DMaxUSA/Products/DriftSpecCoiloverBracket.jpg

[juggernaut1]

Here's the camber bolts in this link

Whiteline Camber Bolts for WRX and STI (http://www.flatironstuning.com/shop/pc-1019-170-whiteline-camber-bolts-for-wrx-and-sti.aspx)

I realise these are for a WRX but you can get them for the S chassis cars - I have these. These bolts go where the lower strut bracket bolts up to the suspension arm. The adjustment is made by rotating the bolt which has an eccentric lug (refer link picture) which in turn pushes or pulls the strut relative to the lower suspension arm. Once you have made the adjustment simply tighten the nut and your done. As you can see each bolt gives up to 1.5 degrees - or + castor so two will give you 3 degrees. IMO its more secure than slotting as the camber bolt would actually have to rotate for the alignment settings to mobe - but it has a locking plate to prevent rotation.

These are the noltec top mounts - they have camber and castor adjustment:

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff132/juggernaut000/NoltecTops001.jpg

Two models are available depending on how much suspension travel you want. The red ones lower the car an inch without any reduction in suspension travel - which of course is desirable. The blue ones require a lower spring to lower the car and therefore reduce suspension travel.

Adjustment is simply by loosening the 3 locking bolts moving the strut to the desired alignment setting (whether camber or castor or both) and then retighten.

The other benefit of these is that you can lean the strut rearward to give you castor rather than pull the front forward as is usual with castor rods. Therefore, minimise tyre rubbing on guards or guard liners (if you still have them).

[yokotavia]

if you have camber plates, and its maxed all the way negative, remove the two bolts that are hitting, and put them on the outside holes, then you can slide another 2 or 3 degrees

that better make sense.

i always rocked 2 bolts only on my camber plates to get sick camber for clearence issues