View Full Version : sr heating info needed
Mr.s13r
03-12-2009, 09:04 PM
Need some info on how much is good for the water temperature on the sr
Put the info in bullet form hope it will be easier to read.
-hatch with sr
-Stri water temp gauge with sensor on top water hose
-Dual fal fan
-Set the fan adjuster to kick in around 190 F, with fan probe inserted near the top water hose on the radiator.
-Oem thermostat
-Temperature listed are all from the stri water gauge, stock temp gauge always stay at middle:
-Cruising below 70mph, temp = 180-190 F
-Cruising + Pushing, temp = 190-200
-Cruising on the freeway at 70 - 85mph temp = 190 for awhile then goes up to 200-205ish (driving usually around 20-30 min with those speed)
-If i get off the freeway after it gets to 205ish and drive regular below 70mph, temp dropped to 180-190 mark right away
-Usually when the fan kick on when i drive below 70mph it usually drop the temp right away according to the gauge but in i was to drive at constant speed of 70-85 it keep on rising to like 205ish and even if the fan is running it doesn't drop the temp reading.
My questions:
1). Is this cause by wind factor because i don't have the metal or aluminum sheet that direct air over radiator?
2). Is it because my car has overheating problem, but then the stock gauge never move from middle so iono if this is overheating problem?
3). Is there anything i can do to test to see what is it that cause this heating problem?
At first i thought it was because i spaced up the back of the hood and cause the air circulation to stop heat from exiting at the bottom of the vehicle. But after i took the spacer out the car still read the same as above conditions. So I'm scare it might be worst in the summer since it can get to like 90-100 degree where i live.
Lmk thanks in advance
Mr.s13r
03-13-2009, 11:55 AM
someone can offer some advice? I really can't find anything
drifterken
03-13-2009, 12:15 PM
Didn't i reply to this tread already? umm guess not..
i wouldn't be worried about ur cooling. it seems to me its running fine. usually operating temps on srs are around 82c... thats about 180ish -190 i think..same thing happends to me when i drive.when i beat on it at the track.. it goes up to 90c.... thats prolly like 205-210ish... i might be wrong but u can caculate it....i have a aluminim rad. stock fan and shroud + 2 back up electic fans...
GL
drifterken
03-13-2009, 12:19 PM
oops. posted twice.. sorry
Mr.s13r
03-13-2009, 12:20 PM
Oh wow, i thought cars over heat at 210ish. Wow if you said that then i should worry no more but i really thought cars overall overheat that those number. Oh yea im running that aluminum koyo as well
drifterken
03-13-2009, 12:23 PM
Oh wow, i thought cars over heat at 210ish. Wow if you said that then i should worry no more but i really thought cars overall overheat that those number. Oh yea im running that aluminum koyo as well
use the search engine on zilvia. they all say srs run around 82c... u should be fine. wouldnt worry about it. i'd worry if it passed 90c that's where it can potentionly damage ur motor.
also.. i wouldnt monitor ur stock cluster.. by the time that thing reads high.. ur motor would be fucked!! =)
slider2828
03-13-2009, 12:30 PM
66-69 c for cruising, drifitng over track wouldn't go over 90C.....
aveerage 150F for cruising and 200F for track or drift.
Why because that is what my cars run and other cars that are in good health run....
anything over 200 is over heating.
Mr.s13r
03-13-2009, 02:25 PM
Oh damn that means im overheating. I really don't know why though. Today driving on the freeway around 80mph for about 25min it goes up to 210F. I really can't think of the problem. The only thing i can say is the issue is something that dealt with the airflow. Since this doesn't happen when i drive 50mph or less, i figure it has something to do with the fact that at faster speed heat can't dissipate. Lmk what you guys thinking cause im scare it might kill my hg
djcobra
03-13-2009, 02:45 PM
Maybe try installing the NISMO thermostat, apparently it opens up early compared to the OEM one. My car has never gone obove 70 degrees celsius, regardless of what I do. Stock SR fan shroud, with stock cluch fan + NISMO T-Stat + Koyo Rad, done!
I've also noticed that keeping the under panel cover along with the clutch fan/shroud setup makes a huge diff.
Steve.
slider2828
03-13-2009, 02:48 PM
^^^ Yup all great tips!!!
I have the same thing.... Top panel under panel, nismo tstat, kyoy, stock clutch fan, water wetter with 50/50 mix....
Nismo thermostat is stupid. It doesn't get you any more cooling than the system's heat capacity in that ~20-25 deg F earlier opening, which isn't much. It also makes the heat suck in the winter.
It sounds like you have a stock radiator, so upgrade that if you feel the need to upgrade anything. Putting on the stock mechanical fan would help too, as well as proper ducting(stock undertray, "cooling panel" up top etc.). But you aren't overheating the motor as it stands right now. Anything over 210-215 deg F in street driving indicates a problem.
Mr.s13r
03-13-2009, 06:20 PM
I have aluminum koyo rad, dual 12" fal, new oem thermostat, with no bottom panel and I don't know what u mean by top panel. So with that iono watsup.
Also I got the oem instead of nismo tstat because of the heater for the winter issue. Man this is giving me a headache
Get a factory underpanel and a top "radiator/cooling panel" or whatever it's called. They sell them on ebay for like $35. Goes between your bumper and the front core support.
Mr.s13r
03-13-2009, 09:12 PM
well let me try that first then we'll see ill bring this thread back once i can get my hands on those stuff.
thanks for all he help
Mr.s13r
03-13-2009, 09:20 PM
Can some one tell me if this is GOOD:
Cooling Panel (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240SX-S13-COOLING-PANEL-9-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107058QQihZ020QQitem Z300299679435QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ht_500wt_1375 )
Yea it's cheap but iono if this cheap can direct air the GOOD way?
Mr.s13r
03-16-2009, 12:07 PM
Ok Im bring this back up. I just got the upper cooling panel installed. Drove the car today, again everything seem fine but still getting the overheating issue. The only thing is that i don't have any lower panel as in if you look in the area between the rad and motor you can just see the ground. Don't know if this is the issue or not. LMK
slider2828
03-16-2009, 03:25 PM
Did you flush your radiator? Flush your coolant and put 50/50 + water wetter.... See if that helps, but those panels no matter what you don doens't trop more than 2-4 degrees tops....
I was railing it UP the san fernando grape vine in LA, which is pretty elongated relatively steep grade and it didn't go up pas 69c = 156
Rebleed.
Mr.s13r
03-16-2009, 04:57 PM
I rebled it couple of times already. This is weird man. Let me ask you this, if my radiator cap seem to be leaking a little will it cause my problem. What i mean is that sometimes when i open my hood after a long drive i notice some cooling form on the rad cap. But not a lot though just wet a little.
slider2828
03-16-2009, 06:01 PM
Yes for sure.... HAHAHA....
Its not pressurizing the system therefore the fluid moves slower through your system reducing cooling.....
That cap makes a HUGE difference lol.... Get a nismo or something 1.1bar or higher
Mr.s13r
03-16-2009, 06:47 PM
But if it like that shouldn't it happen when i drive at low see as well? Like i told you before, if i drive under 70mph it doesn't happens. LMK but yea is there any cap at autozone or something that i can use? The nismo one i need to order and it cost a lot.
slider2828
03-16-2009, 06:57 PM
Your still running hot under 70.... So get a new cap...
Mr.s13r
03-16-2009, 07:02 PM
No, my car run at 180-190 under 70mph so it's fine. My question is if the cap is not pressurizing right would it overheat too when im driving under 70mph?
ps
lol, now i see why you don't understand my question on earlier post. I put low see instead of low speed
slider2828
03-16-2009, 07:05 PM
If it leaks a little it might not leak you know what I mean... Pressue builds as you got faster and higher RPMS.
Mr.s13r
03-16-2009, 07:09 PM
oh ok that makes sense...damn well let me go find a rad cap and change it out to see what happens. Oh yea, do you know if z32 rad cap works on koyo by any chance? Heard it is 1.1bar or 1.4
slider2828
03-16-2009, 07:14 PM
No idea bro, couldn't tell you, but get a Nismo or whatever, I think they are chepa like 40 bux or somehting.... or even maybe try a kragen one and see if that will hold you over, but nism or something like that for sure
Hashiriya415
03-16-2009, 07:17 PM
Actual pressures vary throughout the system because without a pressure differential, there could be no coolant circulation. Coolant circulation is vital to heat transfer and temperature control. Pressures are highest at the water pump outlet and in the water jackets near the combustion chambers. System pressure is lowest at the water pump inlet. Pressure is generated by the water pump and controlled by variable restrictions, like the thermostat, the heater control valve and valves in the radiator cap. The system also has fixed restrictions, such as orifices in the water jackets and passages in the radiator.
slider2828
03-16-2009, 07:23 PM
Thanks gret explanation, but man... more detail than I could handle hahaha but I comprehend...> Awesome thanks!
Mr.s13r
03-16-2009, 07:29 PM
Ok well im ma get the z32 rad cap heard it is around 16psi which is like 1.1 bar i think
Mr.s13r
04-11-2009, 12:20 AM
Ok well got a nismo rad cap and it's still overheating. The weird shit is that i went and actually bleed the damn system like 30min just to make sure. What i did was i raised the front of the car then open the rad cap with a funnel in it and fill the funnel with some coolant. Then with heat turn on to full blast, I started the car and revving engine a lil to help it gets to 180F for oem thermostat to open and didn't see any bubble, left the car there for like a long ass time just to make sure and then put everything back and went out for a test drive and still overheat when i drove it for like 20-25min at around 70-90mph. Temp raise to like 210F. Temp are measure from top rad hose. Lmk what you guys think, i can't seem to figure this shit out.
ps: if i drive normal, nothing happens (normal as in like 30-50mph)
You didn't bleed the system correctly. Open the bleed screw on the coolant outlet after filling up the radiator all the way. Put the bolt back in after coolant is coming out. Refill the radiator. Take it for a drive, refill after it cools.
Mr.s13r
04-11-2009, 09:39 PM
well let me try that n tell you what happens tomorrow
I'd also suggest you read the FSM before working on your car.
Mr.s13r
04-14-2009, 06:11 PM
Ok did everything you guys advised but nothing works. So what i did was i took off my front bumper since i think it dealt with airflow. Finally, i found out that without the front bumper it doesn't overheat anymore. So now my question is how can i get more airflow so it doesn't overheat anymore.
Here some info on the car:
-Still try to get ac so condenser is still there.
-stock front bumper
-don't wanna cut bumper
So is how you guys with stock bumper and condenser make it works?
Mr.s13r
04-15-2009, 10:12 PM
Anyone wanna chime in on this please?
spicywhitemustard38
05-08-2009, 12:23 PM
I just put a mishi rad and fan shroud And my sr is doing the exact same thing. The only thing i can think of is an open grill. I have full working a/c and a fmic. Most likely an airflow restriction for me.
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