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Xren17
03-09-2009, 04:28 PM
I started my KA-T build this January and decided to document what I did in the hope of helping someone else with links to where the parts were purchased from and for how much. If you have a cheaper source please let me know so I can update the link.

Disclaimer:I've read a lot of posts on zilvia, ka-t and nico so I apologize beforehand if I don't give the original author their due credit but it's too much effort for me to try to find all the threads again.

Remove Front End
Remove the front bumper and wheels to allow for more working room.

EGR Removal
1. Unbolt the EGR pipe on the exhaust. I believe it's a 26mm nut.
2. Remove exhaust manifold.
3. Remove EGR pipe on the other end.
4. Remove EGR assembly. I found this link here "add link" but the photo is gone.
"Need to add photo of EGR assembly.
5. Order EGR block off plate from eBay. I got mine for $9 shipped.
6. Install EGR block off plate and reuse old EGR gasket.
7. Left vacuum hose unplug. (Need to verify if this is OK but from what I remember it's ok to do so.)

Injector Replacement
1. Remove injector cap screws. You're going to strip them! No problem, use a EZ out screw extractor from Sears for $9.
Cal-Van Tools Spiral Screw Extractor 4 Pc - 438 at Sears.com (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00960592000P?vName=Tools&keyword=screw+extractor)
2. Wiggle the injectors to loosen them up.
3. Option 1: Re-thread both screws part way and using (2) flat head screw drivers gently work the injectors up. Use the screws as leverage.
3. Option 2: Use a hose plier, pictured here.
Performance W1048 11Inch 1/2Inch Hose/Cable Plier - ToolKing.com (http://www.toolking.com/performancetools_w1048.aspx)
3. Option 3: If you don't care about the injectors. Just use a vise grip and yank the suckers out. Note: I believe Deatschwerks have a $50 core exchange so be gentle if you want the exchange.
Deatschwerks (http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/)
4. Order new O-rings if you're using old injectors from the nismoshop.
Order (1) 16421F and (1) 16421FA for $15 shipped. The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Nissan OEM Fuel Injector Seals & Insulators :: SR20DET (http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.php?func=catalog&category_id=1164&product_id=11860)
I'm using some used 550cc from Deatschwerks.
5. Replace injector O-rings.
6. Lube the O-rings with vasoline to help them slide in.
7. Use a 10mm socket that fit snugly in the injector top and gently tap the injectors back in.
8. I reuse the top insulator that goes underneath the injector cap.
8. Order McMaster Carr bolt replacement for $16 shipped.
McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93635A164)
Bolts spec: M5 .80 pitch, 16mm long. Pick up (8) 5mm lock washers from home depot for $1.
9. Install bolts with 8mm socket. No more issue with strip screws next time.
http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/41305/2532023330047586870S425x425Q85.jpg

Fuel Pump
Excellent thread here to replace fuel pump. The walbro goes for about
$75-85. I believe the new kit uses a prelude sock to emulate the stock one. I just reused the stock one since I had the old kit.
www.ka-t.org :: View topic - HowTo: S14 Walbro fuel pump install (http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10417)

Oil Pan
1. Remove (2) engine mount bolts.
2. Remove front sway bar
3. Remove the 2 brackets that connector the engine to the tranny.
4. DRAIN OIL
5. Loosen (12) 10mm oil pan screws.
6. Jack up engine. I jacked it up using the AC bracket. Not sure if this is the most ideal location but it got the job done.
7. Pry oil pan off.
8. Remove (2) 12mm oil pick up bolts that is located inside the oil pan.
http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/42623/2432912280047586870S425x425Q85.jpg
9. Order 10AN weld on bung (steel since you're welding it onto the oil pan not the aluminum one) and a 10AN hose end fitting from summit racing. Total is $23 shipped.
Earl's Performance 967110ERL - Earl's Performance Weld Fittings - summitracing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR-967110ERL&N=700+0&autoview=sku)
Summit SUM-220090B - Summit Racing® Hose Ends - summitracing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-220090B&N=700+0&autoview=sku)
10. Order 2 ft of 10AN stainless steel braided lines on eBay. $16 shipped
Spec:
#10 Stainless Steel Braided Hose Specs:
* 0.56 Inside Diameter
* 0.79 Outside Diameter
* 1250 Max PSI

11. Drill 3/4" hole into oil pan as pictured below.
12. Weld on the bung as pictured. Make sure it clears the bracket. Found out that I had place the hole too high up so we couldn't get the MIG to weld the top portion. No problem, weld the bung on from the inside.
13. Spray paint the weld area with a high temp paint. $5 from Home Depot.
http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/20545/2523038010047586870S425x425Q85.jpg
14. Clean the lip of the oil pan and engine block completely of the old RTV.
15. Clean both areas with brake cleaner.
16. Apply high temp RTV along the lip of the oil pan in a continuous line about a 1/4 wide. $7 from Autozone. I used the copper base one.
AutoZone.com | Shopping | Accessories | Product Detail - Permatex 3 oz. (88.721 ml.) Tube High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket (http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,92105/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/initialR,1277301/shopping/selectZip.htm)
17. Jack up the engine as high as possible.
18. Place oil pick up in the pan! Don't forget! I didn't forget of course.
I had issue with the pan hitting the crank "bracket" and pulley. It rubbed some of the RTV off but I'm hoping it's ok. My fingers are crossed.
19. Tighten down the oil pickup and I reused the old gasket. This is a bitch to do because you'll end up touching the RTV and get that crap all over the place.
20. Reapply the RTV as needed.
21. Tighten the (12) 10mm bolts down. I'm sure the FSM shows the order. I went with my universal method of 12 O'clock, then 6 O'clock, 3 O'clock and 9 O'clock method... Critical Don't over tighten the bolts since you're going to squeeze all the RTV out and it won't seal.
22. Finally finish.
23. Use teflon tape to screw on the 10AN fittings.
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/44688/2224602510047586870S425x425Q85.jpg

Downpipe and Elbow
I bought a used now defunct Boost Design Manifold and downpipe.
If you know about Boost Design, their downpipe is "design" to rip you off and force you into buying their vaporware exhaust.

Order from eBay a downpipe with a flex piece along with the test pipe. $140 shipped.

Tried reusing the Boost Elbow but it wouldn't line up no matter how much we tried to massage it. In other words, cut and tack weld the shit out of it.

Plan B:
Picked up 2ft of 3" 304 stainless steel piping from ATP TURBO - The Premiere Provider of Turbocharging Components (http://www.atpturbo.com) for $26. Luckily I was working in San Jose that week so I drove up to Hayward to pick it up.
The end result was this. A combination of Boost Design elbow and flanges.
http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/42295/2896326990047586870S500x500Q85.jpg

Intercooler Mounting
1. Remove stock intake and resonator.
2. Remove windshield reservoir.
3. Test fitted throttle body IC piping. Mark location on battery tray. Drill hole with Home Depot bit.
4. Test fitted the IC. Did the following to retain the reinforcement bar.
Option 1: Notch the reinforcement bar and weld plate on back side to fit the IC.
Option 2: Cut the (3) hood latch bracket and make a bracket to mount the IC and support the hood latch.
I went with option 2 and came up with this.

1. Cut Hood support the height of the IC.
http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/28627/2407593950047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
2. Make bracket
3. Weld bracket onto hood latch supports
4. Dill hole on the bracket for where the IC is going to bolt to that will allow a M8 nut to fit into.
5. Weld (2) M8 x 1.25 nuts onto bracket
http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/41577/2684610870047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/41836/2966682910047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
6. Weld (2) nuts onto reinforcement bar.
http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/45161/2105175040047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
7. Paint bracket with high temp paint
http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/43496/2586712390047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
8. Bolt on IC.
http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/43605/2876599970047586870S500x500Q85.jpg

Gauges Install
I didn't see any current how to, with photos, in wiring the gauges but I got enough ideas to do something. I had
some computer hard drive connectors laying around so I decided to use them as my harness for the STRi and AEM AFR.

Tools Needed:
-Pair of Cutter/Crimper
- (2) 4 pins female connectors
-Solder Iron
- (2) 4 pins male connectors
-Shrink Tube
- (4) T-Tap
-Electrical Tape
- Solder
-Zip Ties

Pics of connectors, they're basically these but in black.
http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/16896/2341153080047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
Connector used for AFR
http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/12421/2975027820047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
Connector used for STRi
http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/44277/2825261790047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
Assembled connectors
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/41694/2209949280047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
AFR Power Harness
http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/45209/2816101900047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
STRi Power Harness
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/43692/2850973250047586870S500x500Q85.jpg

1. Crimp one end with female T-taps.
http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/44669/2256531010047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
2. Pre-tin connectors, STRi and AEM AFR power harnesses.
3. Cut shrink tubing to about 1 inch length and put them onto the power harness wires.
4. Solder the connectors to the harnesses. The STRi have 4 wires for +12V, Ground, Ignition and Illumination. You only need to use the power and ground for the AFR since the white and blue ones are for analog and serial and not needed to operate.
5. Shrink down the tubing with a blow dryer or use the side of the solder iron.
http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/42734/2260708710047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
6. Wrap the electrical tape around the harnesses for a clean look. I left some of the harness exposed to help me identify which pin is for what line.
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/42078/2720561510047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
7. Tomorrow I'm going to tap them to the lines the lines behind the radio or on the steering column. I haven't decided since I'm
waiting to pickup the ATI 52mm gauge holders for the steering column.
http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/42591/2012352080047586870S500x500Q85.jpg






Next:
1. Install home made exhaust. Done
http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/44183/2551921350047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
2. Install Apexi 80mm EVC
http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/40423/2045024770047586870S500x500Q85.jpg
3. Install STRi boost and oil pressure guages
4. Install AEM Wideband
5. Install oil block adapter from stealth and oil feed line. Done
6. Install Enthalpy tune ECU. Plan on going with Nistune/Calum ECU but I had bought the Enthalpy ECU a couple of years ago. Done
7. Install JGS Precision vacuum block. Done
8. Buy intake, 90 and 45 degree silicone hose for hot side of the IC. Done
9. Weld on BOV flange on cold side of the IC. Done
10. Install N62 MAF
11. Extend upper radiator hose since the IC piping is hitting it.
12. Start up
13. Make heat shield
14. Rebuild another motor for boost. Current motor has 200K miles with stock internal and being used as a guinea pig.
15. Install turbo timer.
16. Install colder spark plug and gap to .035"?

Any feedback is welcome since this is my first build and I'm positive I don't know everything.

nismo tuned s14
03-09-2009, 04:59 PM
What you have so far is very detailed.

It would definitely help me out, if I haven't done this four times already. lol

Xren17
03-09-2009, 05:05 PM
Thanks. This is my first time and I went through a lot of headache on about what to order and where to order it from. So I figure this way it makes building a KA-T less of a mystery for someone doing it for the first time. Beside I benefit also from having people looking at the thread and critiquing me since they'll more than likely provide me insight on how to do it better next time.

SilviaSR20DET
03-09-2009, 08:09 PM
Good job on the build so far! im in the same boat as well. You got your parts hell of alot faster then i did thats for sure lol I started my project last summer and i will be installing everything this month. Definately go with Nistune! That ecu is pretty freakin awesome as you can do almost everything with it. Very easy to use as well.

Xren17
03-09-2009, 09:09 PM
I've been collecting parts for over 4 years! Haha. Not in a serious manner and I decided to finally do it

KFLS14
03-09-2009, 11:03 PM
Looks good but save for a good manifold. I know 2 guys low boosting 8,11psi and within year bd used manifold had some cracks,repaired and recracked again. Just a heads up..that mani is the suck.

Xren17
03-18-2009, 12:06 AM
Updated for gauge install

shift_240
05-14-2009, 11:27 AM
u mention you got your downpipe from hayward are you local there?

Xren17
05-14-2009, 04:04 PM
I'm actually in San Diego but I go up to San Jose every few weeks for work. To answer your questions from KA-T. All of the welding is done by a friend of mine. I'm using an Enthalpy rom tune, but I bought it about 2 years ago. From what I've read alot of people are recommending Nistune. What you see above is about where I'm at. I haven't had a chance to work on the car but the only thing left is to finish the cold pipe. I'll take pictures of the engine bay this weekend and I need to measure the IC dimensions also for someone on here. You can PM or email me at [email protected] if you need help or have questions.

-Ren

Xren17
07-10-2009, 07:41 PM
Finally got everything install and it started up. I have a couple of questions. I think I know what the problem is but I wanted some feedback.

1. The first is the car is running really lean but I think that is due to the gasoline having been in the tank for 5-6 months. I added an octane booster to it but it was originally 87 octane so with 91 octane the issue will hopefully clear up.
2. The oil pressure is really low. I was expecting around 25 psi. It's at 18 psi right now but does go up when I drove it around the block. Is this normal or should I add more oil? I filled it with 4.5 liter of Mobil 10w40.

-Ren

nismo racer
07-10-2009, 07:57 PM
very nice build,very detailed and informative. this will deff come in hand this year for me.

mewantkouki
07-10-2009, 08:01 PM
Oil pressure around 15-25 psi is normal on idle. In boost or driving around it should be around 50-60 psi. When you first start your car is should read pretty high also. I get around 45-50 psi on first start and 75 while driving, when the car heats up to operating temp. I see what I stated above. Poor oil circulation/low pressure is the second leading killer of ka-t's. I would find out what's up with that.

SilviaSR20DET
07-12-2009, 05:11 PM
my oil pressure at start up is 60-70 then goes down to 20-30 psi at idle when fully warm i think it sits at 20 i think. Crusing is about 50 -60psi so i dont think its SUPER low. FSM says at least 11 psi at idle fully warm is okay. It all depends what kind of oil your using but 10w40 usually should have higher readings.

duffman1278
07-12-2009, 07:40 PM
Looking good! Bigger pics are cool though! lol