Rear Breakes

[Gold240se]

I changed my front pads and rotors, but did not have time to do the rear.  Also I don't have rear pads yet, can I change the rear rotors and leave the old pads on.  It won't be for long cuz the rear pads r in the mail.  It's getting cold here in Mass.  and I don't want to be stuck out in the cold doing a break job.

[HondakillaS14]

Propably could, but I think it'd be better to just go ahead and wait till you get the rear pads.....then again I live in Florida and even if it was cold, I could swap out the rotors and pads on the rear of my S14 in less than twenty minutes...practice, practice...

[drifterx]

gold: where in MA are u?
i live in MA
hmmm if u want i am sure my friend could do the rears for u for not too much...........
the rear brakes are a bitch in the S13 =)

[Gold240se]

I have an S14, not sure if it's too much different.  I've done break jobs before, but thanks anyway.  Is it a knowledgeable person, or a shop?  Not that either is better, just curious.

[drifterx]

i was just looking for side work for my friend who works at woburn toyota..........
so he doesnt have to worry abt freezing his ass off
today was a good day of outdoor work

[Gold240se]

Your tellin me, I'm at school so I didn't have my tools and the rotors r at my house.  I hope tomorrow is as nice as today.  

[S13Grl]

About breaks: there's a gentleman who won 1999 Nopi Championships with his '98 240 (KA turbo) who runs 318RWHP on an automatic. He lives in Indiana and comes to our Nissan/240 meets here in Chicagoland area. Last time he came, I got to be honored with driving around and being offered to drive that very car (stupid me, I didn't take it--I was too shy). The guy almost did 360s every turn he took; my head was pinned back to the seat so bad it hurt; and then he showed me his stopping distance from 50-0. It was like 5 feet. HONESTLY. Lots of pulsating and vibrating and clunking and it was over in three seconds. I asked what that was; ABS & front 300Z upgrade. I mean SWEEET. He's on this site: Importcargarage. (Marty King)

[91CRXsiR]

dont change rotors AND pads at the same time.. you need to give them time to break in first.. so if you do do the rear do the pads or rotors 1st then the other.. dont want to get caught "slipping" right?

[Gold240se]

Thanx for the reply.  I'm gonna throw on my new rotors tomorrow, and post for a few on the pads.  Good looks:P

[gh6o6]

is it hard to swap out the rotors? i want to install cross drilled or sloted or both. (opinions on whats better and why would be appriciated) what needs to be done when swaping? how long does it take?

[Gold240se]

Personally, I got slotted.  When I'm done with these, I'll try crossdrilled.  I'll decide myself.  Some say slotted are for more race application and don't get them unless you drive real hard, but why would one groove on an otherwise solid rotor make it more for race.  Then some say crossdrilling tampers with the structure of the rotor.  Have you ever seen the rotors on a McLeran F1 there is more holes then rotor.  As long as you get a reputable brand name Brembo, KVR r probably the best $tillen are good but there pricy.  Check out this web site I ordered my rotors on a Friday, where I live they estimated 4-5 days and an extra 4-5 fro the heat treatment.  Any way they got to me in 5 days.  Could not believe how fast they were.  And they were not too expensive either about $370 for 4 rotors and plating on all of them.  Changing them is not hard at all.  I needed a half inch drive 24" breaker bar for the main bolts that hold the cailper on.  Go to Barnes & Nobels and order a Chiltons manual for your year.  I love mine.  Here is the web site.  

[Gold240se]

http://www.pureperf.com

[gh6o6]

i got the book. whats the breaker bar?
also what about getting the rotors cut when they warp? does the slots/holes mean they cant be cut?
how about the plating doest that affect cutting?

[Gold240se]

A breaker bar is basically a 2 foot long wrench for getting stubborn bolts off.  I had one on so good it toasted 2 wratchets and a 3/8 12 ince breaker bar.  So I bust out my whupin stik pryed that sucker off.  If you don't have any problems with bolts or no maror hang-ups, it should take an hour or two to do all 4 wheels pads too.  I did it with friends so there was a lot of hangin out too.  Depends on how fast you are.  But it's not hard at all.  As for the coating and slots or holes and weather or not they can be turned on a lathe, I can't say for sure.  But I think I've heard you can resurface slotted or drilled rotors.  Don't quote me on that.  As for the plating, I guess the worst is you won't have it any more.  Maybe it might mess up the machine but thats doubtful.  Call around and get the opinion of a couple sources then decide for yourself.  Kinda like what I did with the whole Slotted\Drilled or both war.

[gh6o6]

thatnk i think ill post as a new question

[Gold240se]

Look through old posts first.  There is a ton of info.  Its just that its been talked about alot.

[HippoSleek]

I've preached enough here about the slotted vs. drilled vs. blanks debate. &nbsp;Do a search and you will get good insight. &nbsp;My advice is blanks for use, drills for looks, and slots for <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>

Some new points: &nbsp;the reason you see certain race cars with drilled rotors is for the heat dissipation they offer during endurance events. &nbsp;This is not necessary for street driving or even track days - you won't be able to tell the difference (note: SCCA class racing requires blanks - the performance is obviously enough).

Plating just keeps the center (non-pad contacting) section from rusting - it does not affect the ability to turn them. &nbsp;It's benefits will remain after turning since they only turn the pad contacting area.

Turning can be done to any rotor - even cryo treated ones. &nbsp;You can turn them until they reach a minimum thickness.

Order of replacement (pads to rotors) is a curious topic. &nbsp;Best: &nbsp;replace or turn rotors for every new set of pads. &nbsp;Do this at the same time. &nbsp;The pads will bed in on the fresh rotor surface and not inherit its scars. &nbsp;If you run different pad compounds you should have a dedicated set of rotors for each - otherwise you will eat through pricey pads and rotors at an alarming rate! &nbsp;For example, I run a light race pad now, but will be returning to more of a street pad this winter b/c my $140 pads are too much to waste for daily driving.

It is okay to replace the rotors and leave the old pads on. &nbsp;They will bed in to the new rotor - but you might get some rotor scarring from the already scarred pad. &nbsp;This will cause your new rotors to get worn a bit faster.

Do NOT put new pads on old rotors -especially high friction co-ef. pads. &nbsp;It will burn up both the rotors and the pads too fast. &nbsp;This is a total waste of money and will not give you the stopping power these items are capable of.

[Gold240se]

I deffinately knew enough to not change pads on old rotors. &nbsp;And I was under the assumption that the cadmium plating was for heat not rust. &nbsp;Please correct me if I'm wrong. &nbsp;

[HippoSleek]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Quote: from Gold240se on 8:27 am on Nov. 2, 2001
I deffinately knew enough to not change pads on old rotors. And I was under the assumption that the cadmium plating was for heat not rust. Please correct me if I'm wrong. </td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

It's rust - do a search in yahoo. &nbsp;I'd have given a link, but closed the window too soon. &nbsp;However, in a way, you are right. &nbsp;Anytime you do a brake job, you should sand where the hub meets the rotor and where the rotor meets the wheel until you have a non-rusty surface. &nbsp;Why? &nbsp;B/c in very hard driving conditions (i.e., lapping or autox, NOT street use), heat from your brakes builds on your rotors. &nbsp;It transfers from there out to your wheels. &nbsp;Your wheels are one of the most important ways your brakes dissipate heat. &nbsp;The rust on the rotor or the inside of your hub-ring on the wheel reduces the ability of this area to conduct heat.

I admit, I didn't belive it was that important until I actually realized how hot my wheels became at the track one day!! :cool:

[chickenmanq]

What the #### do you need brakes for? &nbsp;All they do is slow you down! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

I guess I feel obliged to stop at red lights, dive deeper into corners and live till legal drinking age ;P

[chickenmanq]

Ahh ####, I'm already 21, and I don't think there's anything past 30. &nbsp;Better get my will started. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>

LOL!