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View Full Version : Battery light let me know!!!!


boostinS14
03-02-2009, 08:48 PM
wsup guys i was just driving my car around the block to test drive it. and i noticed my battery and brake light started going off as soon as i increased my rev the light started getting brighter but when i come to a stop it starts fading away.any ideas? let me know

boostinS14
03-02-2009, 10:21 PM
Update: i did the alternator test where i disconnected my + terminal still runs fine im guessing its my battery thats not producing the proper voltage my battery has been producing alot of corrosion around the battery tie down.

r6_240sx
03-02-2009, 10:45 PM
For alternator test, disconnect negative terminal.

Brake and Battery going on simultaneously is 99% alternator going bad.

Easiest and for sure way is to go to auto shop and get it tested, it's free.

LA_phantom_240
03-02-2009, 11:00 PM
For alternator test, disconnect negative terminal.

Brake and Battery going on simultaneously is 99% alternator going bad.

Easiest and for sure way is to go to auto shop and get it tested, it's free.

Why negative? Doesn't make any sense to me. Seems you could do either, really.

boostinS14
03-02-2009, 11:09 PM
For alternator test, disconnect negative terminal.

Brake and Battery going on simultaneously is 99% alternator going bad.

Easiest and for sure way is to go to auto shop and get it tested, it's free.


well doesnt it make sense that if u disconnect your + terminal and your call still runs that means that your alternator is still good?

r6_240sx
03-03-2009, 12:10 AM
I've always removed negative for safety reasons. You don't take out the battery by pulling out the positive cable first now do you? Pulling it out while the engine is on is ghetto to begin with anyway and won't lead to any definitive results.

I use a multimeter now to check all my stuff. I figured if you had one, you wouldn't be asking this question. That's why I recommended taking it to an auto shop.

shade
03-03-2009, 12:16 AM
Free alternator test at Autozone.

ANVIL
03-03-2009, 09:11 AM
yeah take it in, or almost any kind of auto part stores offer free alternator tests. if you have access to a voltmeter, if your alternator is working properly you should be seeing at least 13.9V (unless you have loads on, efans lights system ect) at the battery while the car is running. if the alt is bad probablly less than 11v

boostinS14
03-03-2009, 10:45 AM
mmk thanks for the advice guys. i disconnected the - terminal and car still runs fine. anyother ideas?

zugoi
03-03-2009, 10:48 AM
Yes get the alternator tested. Just unplugging the battery cables is not a definitive way to determine the alternator is bad. The alternator can be giving you 12volts and your car will still run. Get someone to test the voltage coming from the alternator to be sure its in the 13-14 volt range while engine is running. Either way im putting my money on bad alternator.

Ceepo
03-03-2009, 12:26 PM
Had this happen to my 1989 s13 sohc, it was the alternator, it would charge in the high rpms but at idle it would not, i replaced that along with some corroded wiring going to it and it was fixed, as for the brake light i believe that is caused buy a low master cylinder but i cant remember if they have the sensor for that or not, it may come on to make the battery warning even more noticable :) gl hope this helps...

die hardrift fan
03-03-2009, 01:14 PM
yeah im having the same problem..i got a new alternator about 3 month ago and it was fine then im wondering if hitting a bump made it mess up a wire or something? it used to idle under 1k now it idles at a low 500.. my brake light is on constantly and my battery light fades on and off.. within a month it drained my battery entirely and was unable to be charged.. i ended up wasting 3 batterys trying to figure the problem.. i did rub about 5 wires from my fender loom and i taped em up with etape but i guess that didnt solve the problem cuz its obviously a short.. any ideas on what i should do?

Ceepo
03-03-2009, 05:19 PM
are the wires corroded going to the alternator, or to the battery??? clean everything up and get back to us...

LA_phantom_240
03-03-2009, 05:31 PM
yeah im having the same problem..i got a new alternator about 3 month ago and it was fine then im wondering if hitting a bump made it mess up a wire or something? it used to idle under 1k now it idles at a low 500.. my brake light is on constantly and my battery light fades on and off.. within a month it drained my battery entirely and was unable to be charged.. i ended up wasting 3 batterys trying to figure the problem.. i did rub about 5 wires from my fender loom and i taped em up with etape but i guess that didnt solve the problem cuz its obviously a short.. any ideas on what i should do?

Fix the wires, first off. Second, if any problems still exist, continue troubleshooting til you find the problem.

veeates36
03-03-2009, 06:19 PM
Would better grounds help..? Like maybe a Grounding Kit or something..?

..Not trying to threadjack just trying to throw out some suggestions.. Thanks

r6_240sx
03-03-2009, 07:49 PM
yeah im having the same problem..i got a new alternator about 3 month ago and it was fine then im wondering if hitting a bump made it mess up a wire or something? it used to idle under 1k now it idles at a low 500.. my brake light is on constantly and my battery light fades on and off.. within a month it drained my battery entirely and was unable to be charged.. i ended up wasting 3 batterys trying to figure the problem.. i did rub about 5 wires from my fender loom and i taped em up with etape but i guess that didnt solve the problem cuz its obviously a short.. any ideas on what i should do?Invest in a multimeter and do an amperage test. If you're drawing current past spec during EOKO (Engine off, Key off), then you obviously have a parasitic drain. Work your way from there, it may be tedious, but this is why it cost $$$ for electrical diagnosis.

Oh yeah, before you do anything check the obvious stuff like corrosion in the wiring terminals.

After wasting 3 batteries, I would expect most people to realize they have a problem and hope to fix it rather than just keep on buying batteries.

LA_phantom_240
03-03-2009, 07:57 PM
Would better grounds help..? Like maybe a Grounding Kit or something..?

..Not trying to threadjack just trying to throw out some suggestions.. Thanks

The effectiveness of grounding kits has been the subject of many a debate, and my stand on it is that if you're running stock components, you don't need any extra grounds because the factory grounds are pretty beefy. Adding other components, like E-Fans and a high output alternator, upgrading the grounds with a larger gauge wire is sufficient. Look up the "Big Three" upgrade. That should give you a general idea of what's involved.

r6_240sx
03-03-2009, 07:59 PM
Would better grounds help..? Like maybe a Grounding Kit or something..?

..Not trying to threadjack just trying to throw out some suggestions.. ThanksBuying stuff in hopes to solve another problem with no diagnosis behind it is just plain dumb.

Come on guys, think!

LA_phantom_240
03-03-2009, 08:09 PM
Buying stuff in hopes to solve another problem with no diagnosis behind it is just plain dumb.

Come on guys, think!

You know as well as I do that we can't troubleshoot his car for him without knowing WHAT wires got rubbed, voltmeter readings, etc.

boostinS14
03-03-2009, 10:04 PM
my alternator was producing 14.9V and my car withouut the motor running was still in the 12V and i was using a multimeter. any other suggesstions? my cars headlights does not flicker or what not my battery does not drain. just the fact that the lights keep going on and off at random times gets irratating. :\


i will try cleaning the wires tomorrow afternoon see if its corroded or what now. its just weird how whenever i first start it off and i rev high the light doesnt seem to appear but as soon as its warmed up and i rev towards 4-5 rpms the light starts getting brighter and at times it starts even disappearing even when im in high rpms.

r6_240sx
03-03-2009, 11:16 PM
14.9V at idle? That's not that high, but it's getting high. Regulated output voltage should be 14.1-14.7 V, if its the stock alternator.

Rev it up to about 1500rpm and tell me the voltage reading, if it's above 15.5V then ur IC Regulator regulator is bad, therefore alternator needs to be replaced. It would make sense why the lights go off when you rev it.

Check your fuses too.

mothon
03-03-2009, 11:33 PM
I am having similar problems with my s14. I havnt had time to trouble shoot it yet.

madd ocx
03-04-2009, 12:29 AM
i had this problem about a year or so ago and a wire had come loose on this small white connector box, and the shop i go to sottered back and the lights went off, he told me it should be good but if does it again to get the part from nissan and replace it and last week the lights came back again. when the alternator went out in my car the airbag light came on not the battery and brake light. but i will take pic of the conector im talking about so you can check yours, and see if thats the problem.

boostinS14
03-07-2009, 04:12 PM
update... alternator is working fine kinda fixed the problem a little but the light still goes off when i rev high

mothon
03-07-2009, 05:15 PM
update... alternator is working fine kinda fixed the problem a little but the light still goes off when i rev high

What did you do to kinda fix the problem?

boostinS14
03-08-2009, 02:25 PM
i was missing the bottom bolt(the long one) where it holds the alternator in place so it wont move so then i tightend the belt more and i guess it helped but the light still shows

boostinS14
03-09-2009, 11:10 PM
bumpp need ideasss let me know fellas

madd ocx
03-09-2009, 11:33 PM
ok well i tried to find the connector i was talking about but can't seem to locate it. but i know it was by the battery/ alternator area.. i will check again tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

boostinS14
08-02-2009, 02:46 PM
i know its been awhile but solved the problem new alternator is all i needed. hope this helps all the other zilvia heads.