S14 core support replacement how to

[AngryPanda]

First off this is for all the people who say cut it off and weld in a new one. I am betting half of those people have never done a core support right.
This is the proper way to do a core support.
If you need a write up on how to take the front end apart or do not know how to weld, this should not be done by you. Also if you have no body work experience, again not to be attempted by your self.

step one assess the damage.
Take everything off the front up to the fuse box. fenders, hood, and every thing in between.Leave the bolts in the tension rod brackets.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01369.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01371.jpg
If your changing your core support, chances are the aprons and various other parts connected to the core support is damaged. Before you start cutting anything. Hammer, pull, push the core support back close to its original shape as possible. This will take out a lot of the damage caused by the core support.
Also cover all lines with tape/paper/gloves. This will prevent alot of crap from entering your lines.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01370.jpg
Don't forget to cover the front end with a welding blanket. Unless you like having a broken windshield.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01374.jpg
Next is to remove the core support.
The green dots show the positions of the welds that are need to be removed.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01371.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01372.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01373.jpg
there is 3 on top of the core support
5 to the side of the headlamp area
6 to the lower part of the headlamp area
1 by the reinforcement mount
2 on top of the rail
2 the side of the rail
and 2 below the rail
tools used
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01380.jpg
I use two different methods for removing spot welds.
The first method is the fastest but takes a lot of practice. Using a grinding disk, the area of the spot weld is ground away until the bottom metal is just barely visible.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01381.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01379.jpg
remember to use proper safety equipment, Face shield, gloves, ear plug and a dust mask.

the second is using a spot weld drill bit. This can be found here.
Wurth Red Label :: Machining :: Drill Bits :: Spot Weld :: Spot Weld Drill Bit HSS 8mm (http://www.wurthredlabel.com/product.php?productid=19143&cat=328&page=1)
just use a slow speed between 600-800 rpm. The bits are flat with a centering tip. Just drill enough of the weld out to barely expose the metal underneath.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01382.jpg
I had to use the drill on the welds on the rail.
Now unbolt the tension rod brackets. and yank on the core support. It should come off with minimal effort, if the welds were separated correctly.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01383.jpg
Time to look at other damage.
This particular car has the aprons damaged.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01384.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01387.jpg
Hammer the damage back to its original shape, using the new core support as a reference.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01386.jpg
Time to prep.
Look over the spot weld areas where the core support came off from. Grid down the welds that are sticking out, being careful not to grind away the old paint marks.
Next take some weld through primer and brush it on the exposed metal, again being careful not to cover up the old paint marks.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01393.jpg
Prepping the new core support.
All the welds that were removed need to be replaced on the new core support. Start by putting holes in the core support corresponding to the welds you removed, use a 5/16 drill bit. If you have access to one, a hole punch makes this process a lot faster.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01391.jpg
clean up the area around the holes with a scotch bright wheel.
Put the core support on the car. Use the old paint marks as a reference to set the core support in place.
Time to measure.
Measure the distance on the fender holes. The hole furthest back to the center of the front hole. Take that measurement and make sure it corresponds to the mounting points on the car.
Do this for both sides.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01396.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01395.jpg
Secure in place using vice grips.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01398.jpg
Next take the cross measurement to make sure the front is square.
Measure from the rear fender mount to the front fender mount on opposite sides.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01397.jpg
do this for both sides.
if any of the measurements are off you will need to move some metal around to make it even all around. It is very important to get this dead on as it will determine the way your sheet metal fits on the car.
After the top is squared and secured in place line up the lower crossbeam by bolting it down to the tension rod brackets. Check the reinforcement mounting points to make sure the bolts will go in the holes.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01394.jpg
Use the spot weld drill to clean the welds.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01399.jpg
Time to start welding
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01401.jpg
Weld the top of the core support first on both sides. Then the ones on top of the rails. Then finish up the rest of the welds. Make sure to skip around as not to build up too much heat in a single area.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01404.jpg
grind down the welds as to leave a little bit of the weld exposed, then using a scotch bright wheel clean up the grinding marks. If done right this will look exactly like factory spot welds after its done.
This next step is optional but some thing i always do for extra rust protection.
Prime all the bare metal areas.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01409.jpg
usinga seam sealer seal all the areas of the repair area.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01408.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01410.jpg
let it dry for about 1 hour
scuff everything up with a gray scotch bright pad. wipe everything down then mask for paint.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01412.jpg

All done.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01413.jpg

[atutt]

AWESOME WRITE UP!!!!

Another way of removing spot welds. And this is how I do it. I find a lot of the "Spot weld" drill bits blow serious monkey splooge.

I simple get a small punch. Punch the centre. Small drill bit. Drill small hole. Get stepped drill bit. Drill hole. That's how I do it.

Props for the write up. Don't ever delete these pics! lol

[98_240sx_se]

hey im doing the core support on my s14 kouki. i am trying to do it from just front of the strut towers. do you maybe have some paper work with measurements so i know exactly what factory specs are? thanks and looks good. hope mine turns out that good

[airhead]

finnaly some did a write up on a core support someone should do the same the rear quater panels ;)

did you use epoxy primer?

also do you recomend me using a spot welder?
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45690)

seems like it will make things easier

[airhead]

hey im doing the core support on my s14 kouki. i am trying to do it from just front of the strut towers. do you maybe have some paper work with measurements so i know exactly what factory specs are? thanks and looks good. hope mine turns out that good
it could be found in the FSM

[98_240sx_se]

wow it actually is. i didnt think it would be there. thank you a lot. now i can finish mine!!

[Miles (San Antonio)]

Good work. You did it text book. Was the core support bent beyond repair? Say it had a buckle at the top but just was curious.

[silpena]

it could be found in the FSM
im sure the fsm wont have it......

i might have the frame specs for measuring the frame. I have to find the sheet. I can try and go get another copy if i lost it. Gotta love structual class. Frame pulling and repair classes are fun.

props to u angrypanada for doing it the right way! i would have done it on my car, along with the measurements using a black hawk genesis computerized frame rack but i sold my car before i could remove the core and replace it.

[98_240sx_se]

actually surprisingly i did find it in the fsm in the body and trim section. it has all the measurements but its not in standard or metric. i dont know what measurement system they are using. but if you could email me the page or post it on here, that would be cool.

wish i took a frame class. i took a body class in high school but the teacher didnt know much about it cause he was never a body man. and at the body shop i worked at they didnt teach me that kind of stuff. just learned how to sand lol. so im learning this stuff out on my own. have the whole core support torn off of my car right now from the strut towers forward. just have to cut the one off of my silvia clip and reattach

oh my email is motoman399(at)hotmail(dot)com thanks

[S14DB]

S14 Kouki:
http://i49.tinypic.com/2j4y8u8.jpg

[Rabboni]

Holy Crap! Just did this on my s14 2 days ago. Wish you had posted this a few days earlier so I could know of any alternate spotweld removal tricks besides a 1/4 inch drill bit. But, whats done is done. Awesome writeup and im sure it will help many in the future.

[98_240sx_se]

ya that is the same pic in the fsm. i think its the same for all s14's. does anyone know what measurements its in? i cant figure it out.

and ya they sell spot weld cutters. basically a mini hole saw with just a point not a drill bit.

[clark]

awesome picture with cig in hand lol.

[R33E8]

ya that is the same pic in the fsm. i think its the same for all s14's. does anyone know what measurements its in? i cant figure it out.

Bottom right corner says "Unit: mm"
;)

[airhead]

Holy Crap! Just did this on my s14 2 days ago. Wish you had posted this a few days earlier so I could know of any alternate spotweld removal tricks besides a 1/4 inch drill bit. But, whats done is done. Awesome writeup and im sure it will help many in the future.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95343)

its only five bucks


and nissan recommends a spot weld gun

HB has one for 200$ 120v

[98_240sx_se]

Bottom right corner says "Unit: mm"
;)


yep i thought my tape measure was both metric and standard but turns out that for some reason it reads in half inches on the bottom. thought it was cm. lol dumbass. my buddy pointed it out. so i got it figured out now. :smash:

[ManoNegra]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/doohopark/DSC01396.jpg

details - price, name, etc - of the tool being used to measure?

thanks for the write up AngryPanda
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/highfivestillwedie/pour-some-beer-out-for-homies.jpg

[Dream240]

Nice write up.

I actually have a write up pending on a complete front end replacement. I decided to take lots of pics while I was replacing my front end from the support forward. I did things a bit differently since I had to hire a welder to come out.

It'll be up soon.

Nice job with the paint.....I didn't actually paint mine yet cause I needed the car back on the road. Do'h!!!

[R_G]

super good write up, thanks.

[TheXFlames]

perfect since my gf crashed my zenki just afew days ago.. =(
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/120/l_928eb68047b84eedbde09f0bf7fbbaff.jpg

[Sergio180sx]

I know this is old but awesome write up man!!!!!

[iVanRoz]

Any idea as to how much it would be to replace just the top part of the rad support? Nissan still sell them apartantly that's about the only damage to my car? Can a body shop like maaco fix it?

[RU4REAL]

I did mine. All you need us a "spot weld drill bit". I bought the upper from Nissan. Super easy.

[RU4REAL]

Check out the new black upper and headlight brackets.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll124/Realncarrie/S14/3cbb3232.jpg

[RU4REAL]

Look here:

$130.50 for just the upper.


http://www.courtesyparts.com/62511-support-radiator-coreupper-240sx-s14-1995-1998-p-138225.html

You might need the head light brackets also.

I have a Zenki hood for free. It's slightly damage.

[az_240]

^That doesn't include brackets or anything?:/

Excellent writeup... forgot about this.

I just picked up a full S15 core support for my kouki that was in a very minor (~5mph) accident from the previous owner. Just getting sick of using washers to make my headlights sit right with the hood.

The s15 core support is way cheaper (I paid $270 new) compared to the kouki one and they are essentially the same thing. The only difference is the mounting tabs on each side where the fenders cover is a little different but easy to modify and make it work. I'll post pics when I get around to doing it.

[iVanRoz]

Alright thanks guys ill look into it.

[S14Driftr91]

I replaced the upper support on my s14, check my build thread for it.

[Smurf_240SX]

Very nice write up!

[Walperstyle]

Thank you Zilvia for making this an archive.

I'm curious if anyone has the measurements of the S15 front end. I may be buying a S15 tomorrow, and she looks like she had a bit of a stroke on the passenger side. Might have to replace the core support.
(IF YES, PLEASE PM me on FACEBOOK, JAMES WALPER (might show up as Libertarian Party of Canada) Thanks)