Rust/Pitting help.

[sbc]

The windshield was replaced before I owned the vehicle and whoever did it did a real shit job which of course led to rust which brings me to my present situation...

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/sbcs14/overall2.jpg

You cant really see but the passenger side was relatively easy to fix since the rust wasn't too bad.

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/sbcs14/cornerrust-1.jpg

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/sbcs14/topleftrust-1.jpg

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr102/sbcs14/driversrustcwhole.jpg

These pictures better illustrate my problem.

What I need to know is if I can just clean up the pits with a wire wheel or similar abrasives since the metal is too thin to use sanding disks/grinders.

If I'm leaving the pits should i use some type of body filler?
Are there rust inhibiting fillers or should I just use a thick coat of rust primer?

Any sort of advice would be great guys.
Thanks.

[JRas]

It doesn't look too bad, get some kind of rust eater to remove all the rust in the pitting put some POR-15 over that and you should be good.

[silpena]

wire brush it or use brittle disk disk. They come in different grits and color. Most of them break away quick so you dont burn through. If you want to fill in any pits use a metal renforced body filler aka metal2metal. Just like using lead body filler but without the danger. I would use a metal conditioner before you do any body work on it then use an expoxy primer( you can buy in a spray areosol can at a body shop store) then you can start your body work.

Get the corrosion back to oem standards then paint it, put new windsheid with good aheasion/sealing and walk away. A good test to find out if you got a good seal is to spray the car around the windshield with high pressure/low/medium pressure water and run a leak detector from the inside or blow high pressure air around the outside edges if the seals and have someone use a stetoscope in the in side and listen for air passing through. All of this mimick real life driving. Hope that helps you.

[silpena]

oh btw the metal2metal is rust proof, corrosion proof, stronger than fiber glass, great for high impact areas, geat for seams, and metal shaving and stress cracks. The stuff is pricey though.

[MadScientist]

I can't remember the name of the product I used... Its comes in a small bottle and is Pink.

My Battery Tray was rusted to hell... so I cut it out but the lower part had rused too where the brackets were... I used a wire wheel to remove the paint and some rust and used the Pink Rust eater for the pits.... works awsome... sprayed a primer coat over it and done.

-Drew

[ThunderbaySr20]

definatley use metal2metal, just make sure you take it down to oem size so you dont crack the new windsheild that your putting in... and then use por15 to paint over it

[sbc]

Ok thanks a ton. Would the following steps be taken in this order?

1. Rust eater
2. Metal2Metal filler
3. Por15
4. New windshield

Is that fine?
Thanks a lot guys.

[ByeByeSti]

im also dealing with this issue on my s14 except mines a bit worse :( i used that pink stuff also called rust remover or disolver or something.. worked alright, wire wheeled and clean up filled it. sanded it out. and im just going seal it all afterr

[silpena]

go with these steps
1. wire wheel
2. metal conditioner( rust converter or zince oxide corrosion protection)
3. primer
4.paint
5. new windshield

[energ]

^^ i would do that as well (what silpena recommended) i wouldnt use POR-15 on anything you can see
and if you started using the POR-15 there where would you stop? its thicker than paint by a lot and you would have a line to blend..