Missing and Stalling at idle.I've Spent 2,000$+trying to fix. Its Cursed HELP!

[redsx13]

Ok so here is the deal-
After spending thousands of dollars trying to fix my SR i really need some advice on what my problem could be, I am completely out of Money, so i need to get this thing running myself.


Rundown, I'll keep it brief-
-Motor is stock redtop sr, car is 93 240sx
-Motor has never run correctly after swap
-Like the post says, Motor seems to miss-fire at idle (mechanic says its running very rich),
-In the higher RPM's, car runs smoothly, but also lacks power.
-After a drive, it will stall at idle, but then start up and and idle again (still misfires)

What has been done- (if you think its something i checked, ill check it again)
-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greddy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
I have been to two shops, both can't figure it out, One shop hooked up a power fc and got it running pretty well like that. (should i just consider going this wrought)

The only other thing i could think of is the harness, but i dont really want throw any more money down the drain.
I will take any Ideas at all! http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif

[Hawaiian240]

If the Power FC ran the car well, I don't think it's the harness. Maybe the ECU has a bad tune or something. Are there any indications that the ECU may have been modified?

[fliprayzin240sx]

You checked how good the spark is? Could be a bad igniter chip...or going bad.

Also, spark plugs...what are they exactly and whats the gap?

[S14Cuhh]

before a replaced my bad water pump..id clutch in, and the car would idle so low it would die..replaceing the waterpump and belts fixed it right up..it was a KADE , n/a setup..but your issue sounds similar

[Silverstreek]

i don't really know anything about sr20's, but have you checked things like fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, pcv, iacv, coil(s) (the sr's c.o.p. isn't it?), ect.
have you done a fuel system test or a vacuum test? i see you said checked for vacuum leaks, but not sure if that was just looking around for disconnected hoses or if you meant actually hooking up a vacuum gauge to the car and doing a test.
did you check fuel pressure, fuel pressure leak down, voltage at the fuel pump, ect?

[Hawaiian240]

But why would it run well with the Power FC hooked up??? Does the Power FC fix all the problems? I don't think so.

[Sileighty_85]

Have you tried swapping another SR ECU into it? If droppin in the PFC made it run good then i would lean toward your ECU being bad.

I had a similar issue once, My ECU came unbolted from the chassis and it ran rich and misfired. I replaced the plugs No change, but as soon as i grounded the ECU back to the chassis it ran fine again.

P.S. Its spelled GReddy;)

[Ghost05]

Have you checked the ignition timing? sounds like you might be off a tooth. A friend of mine had the same problem with his.

[redsx13]

Ok, i have been working on this problem day and night, in finally able to take a break and use the computer.

-fliprayzin240sx, i got around to replacing that ignitor chip, but it still runs the same

-Silverstreek, those are some very good ideas, i checked the Fuel pressure regulator, but i did not check voltage at the fuelpump reason being, the car ran fine with the ka. As far as vaccum leaks, in not really sure what was done, the shop did that one.

-Hawaiian240, you hit it on the nose, the shop i brought it to said that they got it running good with the power FC, but when i herd it in person the thing still sounded like CRAP!

-Sileighty_85, GREDDY!, ya i know lol i spelled it wrong. the ecu is fine, the shop swapped in a stock working ecu and it still did the same thing.

-Ghost05, i will check the timing chain tomorrow

Thankyou for all your responeses

As well as what was mentioned above, i have also...

-checked ignitor
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-pulled apart entire engine harness, traced backed every wire and checked with ohm meter (all good)
-had power fc tuned, it does not fix problems.
-re-checked maf
-checked fuel pressure regulator

[p4hang]

I had the same problem with my sr when i swapped it in. I checked the timing chain again and again, because in my mind it was a timing problem. Took me about two months of seriously knowing my whole car in and out. Bottom line is that it was because my CAS wasnt on correctly and it wasnt the timing chain.
Hope that helps.

[redsx13]

*****update******

Ok, i got some free time so i decided to try some more things on my 240.
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-installed Power FC D-Jetro still nothing!

this car is a pain in the ass!!!!!!

I had the same problem with my sr when i swapped it in. I checked the timing chain again and again, because in my mind it was a timing problem. Took me about two months of seriously knowing my whole car in and out. Bottom line is that it was because my CAS wasnt on correctly and it wasnt the timing chain.
Hope that helps.

well, like i said, a shop checked it out. they also said that they set the timing. maybe they missed somthing?

[UNISA JECS]

You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work.

[redsx13]

You know when you wire in a SR20DET the check engine light does not work, you need to add a wire to get the MIL light to work.There where no codes on the ECU, so even if it had i MIL it would not be on.

just to give you guys a better update on whats going on with the car, here is an up to date list on what i have done so far...

-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checkes fuel pressure regulator
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are fireing
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

**here are the symptoms i still have**

-lopey idle (very very rough, whole car shakes, it actually broke one of my new autometer gages)
-missing at idle
-low boost 5psi max
-low vacuum
-almost stalls after revving
-lack of power

and here is a strange fact, when i checked for boost leaks, there where no leaks in the piping, but alot of air did come out of PCV. (the T fitting in the valve cover)

[Tan-R]

Have you checked your altenator? i have had problems like this with my car and it seems to be something with the altenator... have it tested just a suggestion

[redsx13]

Have you checked your altenator? i have had problems like this with my car and it seems to be something with the altenator... have it tested just a suggestion

the shop said that they checked it, and i dont really have any battery issues. how do i check it? I cant take it off and bring it somewhere because the bolt in the tensioner bolt is really rusted on, and i dont want to go through a ton of work to pull the thing off if it is not whats doing it. cant i just start the car, pull the battery out while its running, and use a volt meter to check the output voltage of the battery? I think it should be like 14 volts of somthing like that.right?

[BustedS13]

you've spent two grand having a mechanic poke at your engine?
your parents must hate you :(

[Sileighty_85]

well the only think i could think of is its gonna be Mechanical Timing you said you checked the Cams but not the crank

Maybe look into pulling the from cover off and checking the all three dots.

[xcye12]

Did you check the CAM sensor?

There where no codes on the ECU, so even if it had i MIL it would not be on.

just to give you guys a better update on whats going on with the car, here is an up to date list on what i have done so far...

-No codes on ECU
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-checked for vaccum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vaccum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checkes fuel pressure regulator
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are fireing
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

**here are the symptoms i still have**

-lopey idle (very very rough, whole car shakes, it actually broke one of my new autometer gages)
-missing at idle
-low boost 5psi max
-low vacuum
-almost stalls after revving
-lack of power

and here is a strange fact, when i checked for boost leaks, there where no leaks in the piping, but alot of air did come out of PCV. (the T fitting in the valve cover)

[redsx13]

Did you check the CAM sensor?

I was told that if the cam angle sensor was bad the car wouldn't even run.

[ANVIL]

I was told that if the cam angle sensor was bad the car wouldn't even run.

not always the case. if its on its way out it can cause misfires, runing rough and whatever else symptoms from the timing being off. test with a known working one

[sdrmiami]

CAS will still work when bad. i recommend you replace it and im pretty sure that will fix you up. ive installed a few swaps that had a simular problem and swapped out the CAS and problem fixxed. email me if you have any questions i will be happy to help.

[esqueue]

Are you guys serious? Will it also make it hard to time a vehicle? I have the messed up idle and the occasional stalling after after stopping. I did get a code 11 once but after a reset it never came back.

[esqueue]

In my situation, the cams were off.

[redsx13]

CAS will still work when bad. i recommend you replace it and im pretty sure that will fix you up. ive installed a few swaps that had a simular problem and swapped out the CAS and problem fixxed. email me if you have any questions i will be happy to help.

not always the case. if its on its way out it can cause misfires, runing rough and whatever else symptoms from the timing being off. test with a known working one

dude, that is soo crazy, i actually took the cap of my cas yesterday and the wheel was bent!!! I tried to bend it back, but it seems like it actually got worse, im buying a used cas as soon as i can find one, and i am also replacing the wiring harness, i will update you all soon!

does anyone know where a good place to find one is, i really dont want to shell out 300$ for a new one, and i dont have any friends withs srs that would let me barrow one.

[Locko]

well man i had the same problem and it eneded up being a soldering on the sr wiring harness that got loose check my thread
http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/238640-sr-swap-wont-go-over-2000rpm.html (http://zilvia.net/f/238640-sr-swap-wont-go-over-2000rpm.html)

[Big Zee]

if you grab a new one, at least you know it'll work and won;t be a expensive peice of used...

[georgesal]

have you done a cylinder leakage test, and are you sure the timing chain isnt off one tooth. what did they fo with the pwer fc to get it to run better(as fas as tune)

[kalypso123]

im betting on the CAS... still dont know why the standalone worked fine.

[Landers]

Just wondersing but did you get no codes or code 55? If you got nothing then something is up wih the ecu, Code 55 means no faults.

But i am betting that it is the CAS.

[handinpants]

Solder in a consult cable to your ecu, grab a snapon Mt2500 set it to generic vehicle, and look at what's going on

[Landers]

^^^^^Word?? Care to Elaborate?

[redsx13]

**update**

I put in the new (used) CAS in my car and timed it to 15* btdc, i didn't do anything. WTF! I was really hoping on that being my problem!

The only code it ever pulled with the stock ecu was 55. And just to clarify, the standalone didn't end up working fine, the shop told me it would, but then it was installed and didn't end up really doing anything. but since it was a d-Jetro (doesn't use maf) that told me it wasn't my maf or maf wiring.

Solder in a consult cable to your ecu, grab a snapon Mt2500 set it to generic vehicle, and look at what's going on
I dont really have access to expensive scantools like the snapon mt2500.nor do i know how to wire a consult port.

[Om1kron]

But why would it run well with the Power FC hooked up??? Does the Power FC fix all the problems? I don't think so.

I'm pretty sure the engine has modifications which the stock ecu was and isn't tuned for to handle. And there is a possibility the ECU is fried.

[redsx13]

OK, for those of you who don't want to read through the whole post to figure out where I'm at on this problem (i dont blame you), here it the current status of the car....

Problem-

-At idle, car searches between 700-900 and misfires randomly (sometimes it misses every 2-3 seconds, and sometimes its a constant miss which happens every second). the air/fuel ratio fluctuates from 13.9 to 15.0 and everything in between.

-At idle, when you unplug the o2, the car stops missing, but still searches. air/fuel ratio is around 10.6 to 11.5.

-When you hold the rpms at a set point (ex. 4000 rpms) it will miss around every 2-3 seconds. (car still seems to search, but im not positive)


Solution-
Here is what I haven't done-

-Replace wiring harness (i pulled the thing apart and checked it)
-Replace the o2
-Replace the IACV

Solution-
Here is what i have done-

-cleaned the IACV
-replaced the CAS
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-Checked codes (only 55 [all good])
-checked for vacuum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vacuum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checked fuel pressure regulator (40 psi @ idle)
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are firing (yes)
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel (yes)
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

If you had a problem that was similar to mine or you think you know whats wrong with my car, please discredit anything i have checked/done, i could have missed something.

Any advice is appreciated

[redsx13]

anyone?.....

[DrifterE]

Try checking your exhaust side for leaks if you haven't yet man. Sometimes having a real bad exhaust leak can cause your idle to be rough. And you not making enough boost might connect to that too. Check the whole thing. Maybe your cat is clogged if you still have it too. That could do that too. Check the gaskets on that side. The turbo for exhaust soot, and oils, turbo manifold. You know the drill...thats assuming if you have done it or not man. Best of luck to you. I'm having issues too.

[mbmbmb23]

MAF wire not adequately shielded?

[a_ghost]

i had a similiar problem with my ka-t, it ended up as a vacuum leak.
try using seafoam on your engine, to spot engine or exhaust leaks

another way, to spot vacuum leaks is to blast air into your intake manifold with the throttle open and listen for air leaks.

[redsx13]

Try checking your exhaust side for leaks if you haven't yet man. Sometimes having a real bad exhaust leak can cause your idle to be rough. And you not making enough boost might connect to that too. Check the whole thing. Maybe your cat is clogged if you still have it too. That could do that too. Check the gaskets on that side. The turbo for exhaust soot, and oils, turbo manifold. You know the drill...thats assuming if you have done it or not man. Best of luck to you. I'm having issues too.

I was actually thinking the same thing, this is what it did...

-pulled the exhaust manifold
-had manifold flange's machined flat
-had turbo elbow flange machined flat
-replaced the main mani gasket (oem 7 layer s15)
-replaced the mani to turbo gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the turbo to elbow gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the oil lines (steel braided)
-checked turbo

no leaks

[redsx13]

i had a similiar problem with my ka-t, it ended up as a vacuum leak.
try using seafoam on your engine, to spot engine or exhaust leaks

another way, to spot vacuum leaks is to blast air into your intake manifold with the throttle open and listen for air leaks.

I did do a boost leak test (pressurized the whole intake system and listened for leaks)

i don't have any leaks in the vacuum hoses (there are only 3, and i have checked them over and over) maybe i have a leak in my intake manifold gasket? i didn't hear anything while doing the boost leak test...

[SoguRacing]

maybe your car is running lean. by a bottle of propane and attach it to the intake manifold port and slowly increase the amount of propane and see if the engine doesnt miss anymore.

[redsx13]

maybe your car is running lean. by a bottle of propane and attach it to the intake manifold port and slowly increase the amount of propane and see if the engine doesn't miss anymore.

i thought it was running lean too, so i dropped 250$ on an AEM wide-band A/F ratio gauge. 14.2-14.8 at idle, it will run around 11.0 when i unplug the o2, when i do this it actually stops missing too.:wtf:

[DrifterE]

I was actually thinking the same thing, this is what it did...

-pulled the exhaust manifold
-had manifold flange's machined flat
-had turbo elbow flange machined flat
-replaced the main mani gasket (oem 7 layer s15)
-replaced the mani to turbo gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the turbo to elbow gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the oil lines (steel braided)
-checked turbo

no leaks

Do you still have the cat attached?

What about your blow off valve? What kind is it?

Cuz i'm kinda going thru the same, and my hunch is on my blow off valve, I have the GReedy RS, I notice you listed you have a GReedy, but what kind? I have noticed that when I close mine just about all the way, it gets better, but mine isn't like yours, mine bounces. I can drive it around, but the idle bounces sometimes, uncontrollably.

[rc1honda]

I don't know if you had the shop do this for you, but did you do the start up procedure with the Power F?. Also you have to correct for injector size and latency in the PFC. Also timing is a huge issue on the SR. Make sure mechanical timing is dead on. Also check your timing chain tensioner. Here is a link to the Power FC guide and the start up procedure.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/226628-powerfc-tuning-setup-guide.html
I don't know many shops that tune the PFC and the instrictions are in Japanese so the could of did it worng. After that i would change all gaskets and fluids. Also check your spark plug gapping. I would say if you got new parts everwhere else with no leaks and good spark it has to be eletrical.

[redsx13]

I don't know if you had the shop do this for you, but did you do the start up procedure with the Power F?. Also you have to correct for injector size and latency in the PFC. Also timing is a huge issue on the SR. Make sure mechanical timing is dead on. Also check your timing chain tensioner. Here is a link to the Power FC guide and the start up procedure.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/226628-powerfc-tuning-setup-guide.html
I don't know many shops that tune the PFC and the instrictions are in Japanese so the could of did it worng. After that i would change all gaskets and fluids. Also check your spark plug gapping. I would say if you got new parts everwhere else with no leaks and good spark it has to be eletrical.

Its not the Power FC, it sounds stupid, but i bought the pfc to fix the problem. it runs the same with stock ecu.

DrifterE-I do have an rs bov, but mine is closed all the way, thats not whats doing it.

i have pretty much checked everything, but heres what i think it could be...

-my Tomei camshafts
-my engine harness

I am going to replace those two things and get back to you guys with the news.

[Bigsyke]

OP are you paying for all of this?

Your reaching the point where its time for a part out, or suicide letter. Im not poor by any means, I've had sex with supermodel replicas, which in fact cost more. I hesitate to put gas in my car let alone change my tabs, so I still dont know why you havent tried the basics.

Run a bottle of chevron techron through, seafoam- change oil/filter fuel filter and fully flush with honda type II coolant, make sure you burp the system correctly with the snap on funnel tool. Grab a bottle of deep creep and soak the IACV pipe, after all this switch out the o2 with a $30 fucking dollar part.

[mondojackal]

Wait...all of this, and you haven't changed out the O2 sensor yet?

[Bigsyke]

If I have issues with my car, I found its BEST to not throw money at the problem. Give it a few weeks if its still drivable and suddenly the solution will apear, its always the dumbest solution in these cases.

[redsx13]

OP are you paying for all of this?
I still dont know why you havent tried the basics.

Run a bottle of chevron techron through, seafoam- change oil/filter fuel filter and fully flush with honda type II coolant, make sure you burp the system correctly with the snap on funnel tool. Grab a bottle of deep creep and soak the IACV pipe, after all this switch out the o2 with a $30 fucking dollar part.

Yes I am paying for all of this, and i am fucking broke because of it.BTW I changed the oil/oil filter, coolant, burped the system, cleaned the IACV. I just didn't list all of that because i thought it was irrelevant. I haven't put any gas additives through it because i didn't want to create any more variables.I have a few questions though....

1. what is deep creep?
2.Where can i get an o2 for 30$, im assuming you mean universal right? I was always under the inpression that you had to buy the oem sr one(idk why). you know the SR 02 is three wire right?
3.what do you mean by "soak the IACV pipe"?

mondojackal, You are correct, I have not replaced the 02, but for good reason, i did a lot of searching, and have never found someone with a bad o2 that has had such drastic effects on Idle. when an O2 goes bad it usually just causes a car to run rich. My car does not run rich.

[brainscratch]

sounds like the harness. i had a similar problem all because of a small harness short that we couldn't find visually, had to go through and check the whole thing with a meter, found some strange voltage fluctuation, replaced the stock harness with a brand new stock harness and it ran like a dream. mine was running super rich, backfiring, surging, and stalling out like crazy. some times it would be fine, sometimes not, thats the beauty of electrical problems. might as well replace the harness after all the other money youve thrown at it, wouldn't hurt.

[godsmack]

I'm pretty sure i said this before but it's more than likely ur 02 sensor. you said the car runs better without it in which means that it is probably sending wrong information to ur ecu and in turn is causing ur car to act up. iacv if bad will usually cause the car to have a low idle. a way to check iacv is to unplug one of the plugs and if there's a difference in idle it should be working if not replace it.

[SmogSUX]

Just throwing this out there...I had a semi similar problem on my Fc..have you changed the wiring to the fuel pump at all? I directly wired my fuel pump up, but the Haynes manual fucked me because their wiring diagram of the fuel pump had the wires backwards...I had the fuel pump wired backwards due to this and somehow my car ran...just like ass though and I was pulling my hair out dicking around with the timing maps and fuel maps..

So yeah...check the wiring to the pump.

[beyondstock]

I'm having the same problem, maybe a little worse. I on the other hand have nistune so I can watch timing, TPS, MAF, Injector duty and so forth. it runs ok sometimes and them sometimes the timing goes crazy and the car does what your saying. I replaced CAS because thats the code I kept getting, but same problem. I believe I'm going to get a new wiring harness myself....

[nismostate]

check for boost leak with soapy water in a spray bottle. bad injector oring maybe? do u have the back of the head grounded with that little wire?

[jerryk]

sounds like the harness. i had a similar problem all because of a small harness short that we couldn't find visually, had to go through and check the whole thing with a meter, found some strange voltage fluctuation, replaced the stock harness with a brand new stock harness and it ran like a dream. mine was running super rich, backfiring, surging, and stalling out like crazy. some times it would be fine, sometimes not, thats the beauty of electrical problems. might as well replace the harness after all the other money youve thrown at it, wouldn't hurt.
Where did you get the new harness?

[miklos]

I had a bad idle and found that the wires going to my injector plugs were spliced and taped together.....no solder.....just tape. I soldered all the splices and now my car runs smoothly.

[angelom88]

hey im sry 2 say it but sometimes in ur case where i bet somewhere close to 3,000 its time 2 throw in the towel, and swappin back ur ka. but i will say this alot of ppl (like those mechanics) are looking 2 get a cheap sr which they can easily fix. im surprise 2 hear that it was wasnt ur ecu but id check ur wiring harness for any broken solder points or something like.

[Silverstreek]

code 55 says this: 55 - Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required

i dunno if it's worth it to you to look at this, but try going to this link:
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/phase2motorsports/s14sr20det.pdf

and go to page 208 and follow the flow chart. you'll want to do the steps that show an "x" going across the little picture of a scanner (since you probably don't have access to a consult).
also since you haven't checked the ho2, try checking out page 338's heated oxygen sensor section to check the resistance of the ho2. if i understand page 194 under ho2, it looks like the o2 sensor is supposed to fluctuate voltage from 0v-0.3v to 0.6-0.9v when cross counting. if you have access to an oscilloscope you could check that as well and see if it's in range.

other than that, might just try starting at the beginning of that section and going through the flow charts and trying stuff. without access to a scan tool to see input/output displays, can't really get a good idea of where to start. but since you said unplugging the o2 "seems" to help it, that's where i'd maybe start. oh and that fsm should work for either s13 or s14 sr20det's per p2m's site.

[racerocket]

i have a similar problem whit mine and turned out that my harness is bad so replace the harness and see if that fixes the problem glwc

[turbocrazy07]

man sounds like a nightmare, best of luck to you in getting this fixed.

[Souljahzs13]

Im not rocking an SR, but when i first got my KA it ran fine for a few days and it had gotten a flu with the same symptoms of your SR. Long story short after trying almost everything. I cleaned out my IACV with MAF cleaner, it ran ok for a day then went back. I have replaced it with a hand full of used ones and its not worth it. You have not tried it yet but try replacing it a brand new one, yea I know its not cheap but hey... if it doesn't work out you can part out everything you bought brand new, IACV always go bad on every car. Hope this helps GL

[lkristoefur]

not sure if you've got the problem fixed but its most likely a vacuum leak if it gets worse after you rev it.. try spraying brake cleaner by the intake manifold or soapy water, if the idle gets worse or better that is where your leak is

[Nutter_SR20DET]

"I had a similar issue once, My ECU came unbolted from the chassis and it ran rich and misfired. I replaced the plugs No change, but as soon as i grounded the ECU back to the chassis it ran fine again."

my blacktop is running like shit, I have the ecu just standing up, does that make a difference???? should it be bolted up to the chassis?

[Nutter_SR20DET]

Im in the same boat. I began my swap july of '08 and still is not running right. ive prolly spent close to $3000 on parts i thought were bad. in my case it seems like an ignition problem. maybe yall can help.

PROBLEMS I KNOW OF:

headers are not tight ( broken studs)
ECU is code J4, not bolted to chassis
MAFS is not soldered just jerry rigged
o2 sensor not hooked up cuz i havent figured out which wire is which
only no.1 pipe gets hot, 2, gets warm,3and 4 are cold on header
exhaust is cat back, gutted cat, but not hooked up past turbo elbow
ect..ect... bottom line i dont have the time to work on it like i used to so im stuck just getting ideas for now.
to me the car sounds like its got a wrong fire order. all coils are getting spark.
I pulled the plugs and results are as follows:
No.1: Charred, carbon build-up
No.2: soaked with fuel, still brand new
No.3: a lil carbonized, just barely
No.4: soaked with fuel.

my oil smells like fuel, the car is really rich
fires up immediatly when u try to start it
give it throttle real boggy cant reach 5k

so go head and flame away, my neighbor said he was a mechanic and would help with the swap, but in the middle of swappin it he moved away so im stuck now with no mechanic skills, i just drive. but after all that i mentioned is good 2 go i feel like its still going to run like shit

[TheWayItGoes909]

SOoo did you ever fix the problem? was it the PFC map?