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View Full Version : Exhaust studs. Water jacket?


Bigsyke
01-02-2009, 08:32 PM
Anybody know how much depth I have before I break through the head into the water jacket?

Im still fighting with this snapped stud, tried to drill it out with $100 worth of stud extractors and reverse drill bits, but Im off center.

So im thinking of just using a helicoil? However I dont know how deep I can truely drill, and the FSM is undetailed.

burnsauto
01-02-2009, 08:38 PM
Just so everyone knows...what engine are we talking about?

fueled by hate
01-02-2009, 08:50 PM
if you couldn't drill it out with an extractor set you're doing something wrong.

Bigsyke
01-03-2009, 05:33 PM
KA24DE, s14.

Yea I did something totally wrong, used the header stud hole as a guide, but missed horribly. Im using the square stud extractors from craftsman, the good kind. It just strips the hole I drilled, so I need to drill the whole stud out. However im affraid there is not enough aluminum surrounding the stud (stud closest to the distributor)

Def
01-03-2009, 06:27 PM
If you've got most of the stud drilled out, then I'd just helicoil what's there and chop off a little of the new exhaust stud if it bottoms out on the old stud.

I'm amazed you can't get it out though, it should have no tension on it now. I snapped a stud off on my SR and it was pretty simple to remove it.

importdude
01-03-2009, 06:41 PM
did u use a punch?

your spose to use a punch and indent the most center part
then start drilling so its guided in the middle

then hammer in extractor(square ) and visegrip turn

heat+soaking it in pbblaster helps

Flaco S14
01-03-2009, 06:45 PM
if you have a wire feed welder you can fill it in with weld and add a bolt at the end and it will bring out your stud. since the head its aluminum the weld wont stick to it. I learned the hard way i drilled all the way to the water jacket but on the new head i got i just did the welding thing and it worked.

Bigsyke
01-03-2009, 07:07 PM
Yea I used a punch, but the drill was angled.

Then tried drilling 2 holes, and using a screw driver. That just enlarged the aluminum opening and reuined the head.

I dont have a welder, but that shoiuldve been my 1st thing I did was fill it with weld, then weld on a nut.


Oh and I soaked the stud in both candle wax, and pb blaster 3x a day for 1 week, and it still wont budge.

I wonder if I have enough threads left. I could probably get it to a welder, have him weld a nut on and remove the excess stud, maybe a few mm left of threads. I ruined probably 80% of the threads in drilling.

JRas
01-04-2009, 12:27 AM
I drilled a hole through my air bleeder bolt that broke

used an easy out, ended up snapping it just by hand tightening it with a crecent wrench, no power tool...

couldn't get it out..

friend comes over with his mig places a nut on top of the bolt, welds on the inside of the nut... first one doesn't penetrate, second one does.. comes right out

moral of story, get someone with welding skills to do it, if you break an easy out you're FUCKED.

Bigsyke
01-04-2009, 10:04 AM
Yes, but on an exhaust stud about 5mm deep into the head, wont this warp the head?

Agree'd that it IS the best and possibly only way

sillyvia13
01-04-2009, 10:51 AM
Yes, but on an exhaust stud about 5mm deep into the head, wont this warp the head?

Agree'd that it IS the best and possibly only way


no it will not warp head.

I have had some happen to me. I gave up.. lol.
I will replace head cuz i am in love with my ka.

but yea bro. weld it up.
homedepot sells decent welders $500 You'll make your money back right away.

cc4usmc
01-04-2009, 11:00 AM
My dad trilled too far.. ended up taking the head to get the hole filled and redrilled. ended up working in my favor cause the head needed to be decked and they did that too.

Bigsyke
01-04-2009, 11:45 AM
what about this welder?


welder at sears (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00920580000P)

Ive got a new head on the way, but thats more downtime.

Would I be able to weld this thing out with the engine still in the car?