Possible for a slave to get stuck OUT?

[Ninjabread]

Drove to work fine, went out to lunch fine. Temps go down (it was around -25.6F)

Go to leave work,
-clutch pedal has weird heavy feeling, pedal is sticking and not returning properly.
-clutch starts slipping, even with little throttle input.
-come to a stop, try to get going again with no luck.
-pull over, check my slave its leaking from the boot
-pedal looses all feel/pressure
BUT! I can go thru the gears while the clutch is engaged (as in, my foot isnt touching the pedal) and the motor is running.
Car does not move...

So I wonder if maybe my slave got stuck in the "out" position? Either way I'm gonna replace it tomorow, -30*C and all, and hope thats it.

PS: Dont know if this will help in anyway, but my car is converted auto/5 speed, and I used a s13 brake pedal, so my adjustment was off, even with the CMC rod maxed out, so I ground down the slave pin so that my clutch could engage properly. Might this have killed my slave in some way? I'm trying to figure out if I was over extending it somehow.

[projectRDM]

The leaking boot is a sign of damage to the cylinder, check and replace.

[jakerps13]

My shit got all weird and here's what I found.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/picture.php?albumid=26&pictureid=132

BUT, I'd start with a slave first; they're cheap and easy.

[Charlie]

This is exactly what happened to my friend's Integra. We changed the slave and it went back to normal(I don't know if this will help but oh well I tried).

[s13Carlo]

that happened to mine so i bled it like 3 or 4 times and it softened up again, but mine ddint leak

[Ninjabread]

Ya first step is to change my slave today. But do you guys think that shortening the slave rod may have contributed to it dying? They usually say to space the clutch pedal when you use an s13 pedal on a s14. Instead of doing that I shortened the slave rod, but that means the slave does not always return fully...

Kind of hard to explain, but well see what happens.

[jakerps13]

Ya first step is to change my slave today. But do you guys think that shortening the slave rod may have contributed to it dying? They usually say to space the clutch pedal when you use an s13 pedal on a s14. Instead of doing that I shortened the slave rod, but that means the slave does not always return fully...

Kind of hard to explain, but well see what happens.

Ah, I see what you did now. I wouldn't recommend shortening the slave push rod at all. It still moves the same, just farther out -> too far.

I think you need to spacer the master out 3/8 or 10mm to be spot on IIRC. It's been awhile since I've done it and now that car is sold so I can't check.

[Ninjabread]

Just replaced the slave and it drives OK now. But I have a spare rod, and I will space the brake pedal to prevent that from happening again.

The slave WAS stuck, and as soon as i took the boot out, spewed out the cylinder and all the fluid.

[Ninjabread]

OK, update!

Killed the original clutch one night coming home. So i went out and bought a brand new flywheel, clutch, and put that in. I also spaced my brake pedal about 1cm or so, installed the new slave, new slave rod (un-cut), bled the system and it was driving great for the first day. Engagement was at the right spot, no slipping, great.

Next day, take the car out, when the pedal is fully pressed in, sounds like the TOB is making a noise and car wont go into gear, but noise stops and it goes into gear if you just let off a bit (3/4 to the floor). Engagement had also gone up higher. So I adjust it, max out the rod, noise doesn't go away at first. Finally mess with it some more and everything seems to be gravy. Engagement is fine, no more noise. As soon as i go to leave home, that noise starts coming back once in a while.

Possibly a bad master cylinder? I also have a the clutch damper still,but I doubt it would be screwing it up like that.