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Jg240
02-05-2003, 02:59 PM
Whenever I shift into second gear it seems real stiff l8ly. Even more so when it is cold. Once the engine gets warmed up its usually better though. Does anyone know why this is? or does your car do it to?



its a 95 se with 100k thanks, jg

Kaede
02-05-2003, 03:38 PM
Have the same problem, but it's a '92 fastback. Sometimes on my car, 2nd gear grinds though I have the clutch to the floor also. This also happens on my AE85 in reverse gear. Don't know what the problem is.

Zemus
02-05-2003, 03:51 PM
I have the same problem, i hear its cuz my sencros are going out, :shrugs:

KingKong8247
02-05-2003, 04:19 PM
I have that same problem for 1st and 2nd gear. Its only when the car has been sitting for awhile but when she warms up for a couple minutes its fine again. I thought it was just cuz its cold. Maybe, maybe not.

Natty
02-05-2003, 04:51 PM
Originally posted by KingKong8247
I have that same problem for 1st and 2nd gear. Its only when the car has been sitting for awhile but when she warms up for a couple minutes its fine again. I thought it was just cuz its cold. Maybe, maybe not.
I think the trans oil needs to warm up just a bit. Best done by actually driving it though.

I also know my synchros blow. Rebuild comes this summer.

Also, try and add some Mt-90 redline gear oil. It works wonders. Sometimes it fixes the problem.
Jeff

KingKong8247
02-05-2003, 06:18 PM
Ok i have a question I was reading the Chiltons manual about changing the tranny fluid and it said to warm up the car to regular operating temperatures. Why do you have to do that? Also it said that once a year you should grease the chassis does anyone do this? Any tips on that? Thanks

Jg240
02-05-2003, 09:10 PM
So do you think i just need new tranny fluid? or do you think my synchros are starting to go. I do not know that much bout cars but want to learn and all advice i'm really happy to get.

thanks, jg

Natty
02-05-2003, 09:23 PM
Originally posted by Jg240
So do you think i just need new tranny fluid? or do you think my synchros are starting to go. I do not know that much bout cars but want to learn and all advice i'm really happy to get.

thanks, jg
Well, I know of only one way to tell :)
Change the fluid. I hear it's easy.
1. Jack the car up
2. Remove the fill hole on top of the transmission first! Make sure you can fill it up before you drain it :o
3. Remove the bottom drain plug and drain it. There is a magnet on the plug. Look for metal shavings. The will be some, but it is still not a good thing.
4. Get the special spyhpon pump thingie for $10 from an auto store and fill it up. I forgot how much oil. Use Redline Mt-90.

That should narrow it down.

The car should be warm because the oil flows best that way. It gets more of the old stuff out.
Good luck.
DSC can tell you more about it. He did a write up on it.
Jeff

thelinja
02-05-2003, 09:26 PM
My car used to do that same thing when it was cold. Second gear would actually grind the first time I shifted into second. I put MT-90 tranny fluid in it a month ago and it hasn't done it since. If your syncros were going out I'd assume shifting would be rough both when the car is cold and when the car is hot. Change your tranny oil and I bet your problem goes away.

ny_jee
02-05-2003, 11:03 PM
Originally posted by Natty
Well, I know of only one way to tell :)
Change the fluid. I hear it's easy.
1. Jack the car up
2. Remove the fill hole on top of the transmission first! Make sure you can fill it up before you drain it :o
3. Remove the bottom drain plug and drain it. There is a magnet on the plug. Look for metal shavings. The will be some, but it is still not a good thing.
4. Get the special spyhpon pump thingie for $10 from an auto store and fill it up. I forgot how much oil. Use Redline Mt-90.

That should narrow it down.

The car should be warm because the oil flows best that way. It gets more of the old stuff out.
Good luck.
DSC can tell you more about it. He did a write up on it.
Jeff

Drain it out as described above, then put the drain plug back. Take out your shifter, pour the tranny fluid there(if you worry about your interior, use a funnel). As for the tranny fluid, try to mix them up. I use a quart of shock proof, a quart of mt tranny, and half a quart of.... I forgot.. Anyways, they were all from redline. As for the 2nd gear prob, it can/could be the syncro. Changing fluid would not help in the long run... I just changed my fluid 2 wks ago when I did my clutch. I had the same prob the same nite... But like most of you, it only happens when it's cold. You can get away w/ this prob if you shift into neutral before you go into 2nd. Just something I noticed.

240 2NR
02-05-2003, 11:32 PM
While changing your fluid may help, my guess is if you didn't have a probelm in the fall, and you're not leaking any fluid now, it will go away in the spring. It's just a hunch, but it really just might be the cold. I've left my car out in the cold over night and the shifter literally felt like trying to move a solid piece of metal in the morning. 20 minutes later it was liquid smooth again. Unless you've got a heated garage, I say save this job till it gets warmer.

240 2NR
02-05-2003, 11:36 PM
Originally posted by KingKong8247
Ok i have a question I was reading the Chiltons manual about changing the tranny fluid and it said to warm up the car to regular operating temperatures. Why do you have to do that? Also it said that once a year you should grease the chassis does anyone do this? Any tips on that? Thanks

They want you to warm the fluid becuase when it's cold it doesn't flow as well and clings to parts. By warming it up it flows better and requires less time to drain. Kind of like pouring maple syrup. Out of the fridge it's pretty thick. A few minutes in the microwave and it flows like water.

Not sure about greasing the chassis, first I've heard. Can you elaborate?

thelinja
02-06-2003, 08:05 AM
Personally I wouldn't use a siphon, it took me freakin' 45 minutes to siphon in one quart. That's probably beacuse the siphon tubing was no more that an eight of an inch in diameter and MT-90 is pretty thick stuff. I just went to Home Depot and made a "tranny fluid bong" out of some half inch polyurethane tubing. It took me about 10 minutes to get the rest in. As for volume, the KA tranny takes a little more than 2 quarts of fluid.

Jg240
02-06-2003, 10:44 AM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 240 2NR
[B]While changing your fluid may help, my guess is if you didn't have a probelm in the fall, and you're not leaking any fluid now, it will go away in the spring.

I didnt have the car until december...it leaks a lil bit of oil(just a real lil bit) and my friend thats is going to school to be a mechanic said he wouldnt worry bout that....I really appreciate all the responses

KingKong8247
02-06-2003, 01:58 PM
its not long so Ill just copy out of the book:

The manufacturer doesnt install lubrication fittings in lube points on the steering linkage or suspension. You can buy metric threaded fittings to grease these points or use a pointed, rubber tip end on your grease gun. Lubricate all joints equipped with a plug, every 15,000 miles or once a year with NLGI No. 2 (Lithium base) grease. Replace your plugs after lubrication.

Kinda confuses me but there ya go.

Jg240
02-06-2003, 05:29 PM
I'm on your side king kong...thats confusing

s13rookie
02-06-2003, 06:17 PM
ive seen a few times in the paper an add saying something like "oil change and chassis lube for X dollars" dont know what they lube though. what do they lube?

carkid0007
02-06-2003, 08:24 PM
I have the same problem when its cold outside I just thought it was because of the weather, 2nd gear grinds then when it gets warmed up it is fine.

240 2NR
02-06-2003, 10:20 PM
Originally posted by KingKong8247
its not long so Ill just copy out of the book:

The manufacturer doesnt install lubrication fittings in lube points on the steering linkage or suspension. You can buy metric threaded fittings to grease these points or use a pointed, rubber tip end on your grease gun. Lubricate all joints equipped with a plug, every 15,000 miles or once a year with NLGI No. 2 (Lithium base) grease. Replace your plugs after lubrication.

Kinda confuses me but there ya go.

All I can think of are ball joints like in the tie rod ends. Sure enough the stockers aren't regreasable, but my new ones are. It does seem kind of confusing. What manual did you have? I'll have to check the FSM to see what it says.

KyoLo
02-06-2003, 11:29 PM
I have the problem shifting to 2nd shift when car's transmission's not warmed up yet, and sometimes it grinds...So i think change to Redline transmission oil will help a lot.!

KingKong8247
02-07-2003, 12:25 PM
I have the chilton repair manual for Datsun/Nissan 200sx, 240sx, 510, 610, 710, 810, Maxima 1973-89

I got it for like 6 bucks off of ebay. Cant beat that.

the head
02-08-2003, 02:12 AM
the on two shift is signifigantly heavier in the winter on my daily that is forced to sit out in the cold i think you should wait for it to warm up and see if it goes away my car only has 17000 on it and it gets stiff it is probably just the weather

Equinox
02-08-2003, 09:43 PM
I was having the same problems shifting into second and third on my '91 SE. Today I changed the tranny oil to GM Syncromesh. It's about the same price as Redline, about $10 per quart at any GM dealership.

Results: Silky smooth shifting. My grinding problems: gone. I will test again in the early morning tomorrow to see if it still grinds when cold. But all in all, I am VERY satisfied.

misnomer
02-08-2003, 10:04 PM
The factory components on the 240sx are pre lubed and sealled. Aftermarket ones will have a fitting for you to inject grease through. I'm told to just do it when you do your tuneups (plugs, filter, distributor). Look under the car, find those (like I said, if you still have the factory suspension components, you won't have anything to grease), and pump some grease in them.

KingKong8247
02-08-2003, 11:04 PM
hey misnomer if chassis greasing is for only aftermarket parts then why would it be in a chiltons manual for the stock car? And why would it say do it every year or so? Just wondering why it would be in the manual. Thanks