a bit of help needed brakes

[titaniumbmx]

well i have a slightly odd setup i have 350z stockers up front and z32 alum rears.

i need a larger master .

the z32 master has 3 outlets but only 2 are used on the z32 correct?

then to run it on the s13 using the stock s13 lines i need a fiting on the center outlet.

if i am correct on these facts then i must be able to T the front s13 brake lines together put a biasing valve after the T and then run it to the single outlet on the bmc eliminating the need for the center fitting?

i'm trying to figure out the least roundabout way to install all my new brake stuff.

i.e. 2x 2psi valves.
1 wilwood biasing valve
z32 master

not realy a direct question here just wodering if there are any people on here that have brake/hydraulic experience that can point me in the right direction

the problem i'm trying to solve is that the front brakes lock before the back brakes have a chance to grab at all.

the biasing valve should take some of the bite away from the fronts if i install it inline with the fronts hence the T and the single line to the master?

if i'm retarded and i dont understand how the brakes work at all please let me know.

http://xs433.xs.to/xs433/08454/master_idea950.jpg

[Ali 556]

:tweak::tweak: :confused: :ugh:

The Definitive 300ZX Brake Swap! (http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm)

"
Regardless of whether or not you have ABS, the 300ZX master cylinder will work. If you do not have ABS, you will need to remove the plug from the second front brake line port, illustrated below. If you have ABS, you do not have to remove the plug. In that case, skip to the master cylinder installation. Typically, a standard allen tool will be more than adequate to remove the plug. In some cases, it appears that remanufactured master cylinders have a 5 sided allen plug. You will need to find a way to remove the plug possibly using an undersized 6-sided allen tool.

You will notice that the plugged hole is missing the proper flair fitting. You have two options to resolve this issue, the first is a rather simple fix. You will need to find a bubble flair tool to put a flair in the line that will work without the missing fitting.
The second option is to remove a fitting from the stock 240 MC and use it in the new MC. The fittings are pressed into the master cylinder and cannot be removed without destroyed the 240's master cylinder. Use a cutting wheel to cut out the small fitting. Be careful not to cut into the fitting.

Take the fitting that you just pulled from the old master cylinder and carefully insert it into the 300ZX master cylinder. Using a small punch, tap the fitting into the master cylinder. You may need to use sand paper to grind down the fitting to make it fit.

With the new fitting in place, it's time to install the new master cylinder. Before you install the master cylinder, take a moment to flush the reservoir with brake cleaner. This will not be necessary with a new master cylinder. Place some grease in the hole of the master cylinder and install it on the 240's booster."

[titaniumbmx]

thanks for the help but i'm not having a problem with installing a z32 master i know all that needs to be done for that.

i wanted to know from someone who installs custom brake setups. on like sand rails or race buggys or custom anything will my setup (in the poorly drawn photoshop diagram) work like it is supposed to?

i dont know of anyone else that has my brake setup, the biasing is going to be wrong i know that which is why i bought a biasing valve. and the psi valves are to add to the possitive brake feel.

realy i was just wondering about the design of the z32 master. i have a good idea but i was not 100%. and if there will be enough volume supplied to the front brakes if i set it up the way i described remember they are base model z33 fronts