View Full Version : Best way to clean head gasket residue off the block?
gippy87
10-27-2008, 07:26 PM
Im replacing the head gasket on my sr tommorrow. If the block is straight, what will be the best method to removing the old gasket residue other then resurfacing.
This is what it looked like after a razor blade
http://risr.org/build/motor2.jpg
You can see it was still very dirty.
jr_ss
10-27-2008, 07:34 PM
Acetone or laquer thinner should take most of it off... You can also use a very fine steel wool or sand paper, 1000 grit or higher..
moses
10-27-2008, 08:14 PM
I was going to use liquor and sand paper. Tell me how it goes, I plan to do the same thing soon.
fromxtor
10-27-2008, 08:16 PM
I've used a green scothbright pad on that area, the area where the upper oil pan bolts, and the front of the block also w/ good results.
landins13
10-27-2008, 08:26 PM
you can pick up gasket remover from advance auto parts, that works really well if you use a green scuff pad with it
Sileighty_85
10-27-2008, 08:31 PM
Yeah Razor blade, carb cleaner and a brillow pad
Id refrain from using Sand paper or steel wool Metal shavings or sand in your oil system = Bad Ju Ju
silpena
10-27-2008, 08:38 PM
yeah that steel wool can leave fine hair in there. When we use it to clean windows after a cars been painted we never wash the car we allways blow em off with air to avoid scratching the paint..anyways i would use a gasket scraper and some gasket remover to get it off clean.
moses
10-27-2008, 08:51 PM
looks like ill be using a scuff pad and gasket remover
silpena
10-27-2008, 09:15 PM
be carefull with the scuff pad. Put some lint free towls or paper on top the pistons and walls to avoid getting fine dirt or hairs from the scuffing pad.
smurfgcr
10-27-2008, 09:34 PM
aircraft paint remover ftw
steve shadows
10-27-2008, 11:28 PM
high girt sand paper, steady hands and permatex gasket remover, worked for me about 20 times now for metal and composite gaskets, motor blowing more than 30 psi at times
I used a razor blade to get most of the paper off, sandpaper to clean it up, and brake cleaner to clean off
jr_ss
10-28-2008, 05:55 AM
I'd go with the really fine sandpaper, I forgot about steel wool, scuff pads and what not breaking apart... Haven't used them in a long time. Get 1.5k sandpaper and a sanding block to keep it level...
oneviaman
10-28-2008, 07:23 AM
they make these things called bristle disks. looks like a wire wheel made out of a hard plastic. takes off the material without removing metal. i love them.
look like this
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21GFJA44MKL._SL500_AA209_.jpg
japslapsilvia
10-28-2008, 07:53 AM
i used synthetic steel wool ultra fine (like a scotch bright but not as abrasive) soaked in engine oil worked out pretty good, and leaves a very shinny sruface. then i cleaned out the oil residue with brake cleaner.
smelly240
10-28-2008, 08:01 AM
nylon bristle rol-loc for winnage... use them all th etime.
mxsx25
10-28-2008, 05:23 PM
a 4" angle grinder with a metal cutting disc, the biggest hammar you can find along with the most gnarly flat head punch you have...then go ballistic...:eek:lol jk i usually use a razor blade, verrrrrry lightly(you can shave aluminum easier than most people think) then sometimes very lightly with a scuff pad and brake/carb clean
jquest
10-28-2008, 09:51 PM
what oneviaman (http://zilvia.net/f/members/oneviaman.html) suggested is what you would usually use in a mech shop. just make sure you get the right one. i can't quite remember but i think the yellow one is for alum. and the blue one is for steel or cast iron. or other way around. use the steel one on alum. and u will start removing material that you want to keep. and i usaully spray brake cleaner on first and then hit it with the brush. the gasket remover does burn the flesh. so i don't use it if i can help it. dude that stuff hurts. stay away from the cutting disc muahahahaha
john
gippy87
10-28-2008, 10:11 PM
seems like alot of different answers now i have to choose.. hmmm.
Fries
10-28-2008, 10:18 PM
Why not call your local machine shop if you're really worried. Any of the answers in this thread will work though. Just do what you feel most comfortable with.
nissanpwnsvtec
10-28-2008, 10:21 PM
just go for what seems easiest to get your hands on
n240sxfnatic
10-28-2008, 10:24 PM
[QUOTE=mxsx25;2414951]a 4" angle grinder with a metal cutting disc, the biggest hammar you can find along with the most gnarly flat head punch you have...then go ballistic.../QUOTE]
This is probably the best way to do it
gippy87
10-29-2008, 06:35 PM
i went with the angle grinder method since a couple people seemed to agree it was the best way. it wasnt exactly the finish i was looking for i hope it didnt shave to much off the block...
lol jk
initial_drifter
10-29-2008, 06:45 PM
use an ice scraper
It's what everyone at my dealership uses and it's what my instructor's making us use
jim1234664
10-30-2008, 10:32 AM
use an ice scraper
It's what everyone at my dealership uses and it's what my instructor's making us use
yeah use this and a solvent, 0 chance of scoring the block
CrazyKoukiS14
10-30-2008, 12:58 PM
heres what i do, soak it with brake cleaner or carb cleaner, then take a razor blade and scrape it off and just repeat this cycle over and over again and once youve done that take a sheet of sandpaper 1000 grade or higher and sand for about 2 or 3 minutes
mxexux
10-30-2008, 11:07 PM
Just use a drill with a wire wheel on it and it will take you a few minutes. It won't remove metal either. I did it with my rebuild and I even used it to remove all the carbon build up on the pistons too.
n240sxfnatic
10-30-2008, 11:45 PM
Just use a drill with a wire wheel on it and it will take you a few minutes. It won't remove metal either. I did it with my rebuild and I even used it to remove all the carbon build up on the pistons too.
Thats a bad idea, and yes, it will remove metal
A wire wheel brush will not damage a cast iron block. Most mechanics shops will use a die grinder with a wire wheel attached. This wont damage a cast iron block, yes it'll harm an aluminum block or other aluminum pieces but you'd have to sit there for hours and wear that wire wheel to nothing in order to hurt cast iron. And yes, I'm speaking from experience. I've been a technician for 5 years now and done my share of this type of work. A die grinder with a wire wheel attachment is by far the fastest and easiest method for removing head gasket material. Also, just as mxexux stated, you can also clean the piston tops with it as well, it won't harm them either.
jmac636
10-31-2008, 08:24 AM
I build motocross race engines and what I do is razor blade the big stuff, use the RED scotch brite and some brake or carb cleaner. Scotch brite pads come in different abrasives gray-fine,red-medium and green is rough. I never use the green on anything aluminum only on steel. Hope this helps someone.
CrazyKoukiS14
10-31-2008, 10:06 AM
I build motocross race engines and what I do is razor blade the big stuff, use the RED scotch brite and some brake or carb cleaner. Scotch brite pads come in different abrasives gray-fine,red-medium and green is rough. I never use the green on anything aluminum only on steel. Hope this helps someone.
wow thats awsome you and I pretty much use the same methods, im happy knowing that im doing the same work as someone that builds motocross engines :)
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