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repda916
10-12-2008, 05:40 PM
im getting my car painted. it was originally white but who ever had it before me painted it a light slate color. i sanded down to where there is no gloss. (clear coat) i used a DA with 80grit. there is only one spot that i had to use bondo and it was very little. im wondering if i should use some auto primer (the stuff sold at lowes and what not) on the whole car then buy my paint (its getting painted in my budys booth) im just trying to get everything ready so all he has to to is spray. if yes on the spray paint primer should i get the primer sealer or the sandable primer?

808_s13
10-12-2008, 06:10 PM
ive heard the stuff at lowes is wackk.
i suggest you actually get the "good stuff"

-makua[ace]

repda916
10-12-2008, 08:18 PM
ive heard the stuff at lowes is wackk.
i suggest you actually get the "good stuff"

-makua[ace]yea i just read epoxy primer from a gun is good stuff. thanks:bigok:

firelizard
10-13-2008, 12:06 PM
80 grit?

I'm impressed that you didn't bare metal the car with that.

Use several coats of high build to fill the 80 grit scratches in any bare metal (actually, and etching primer wouldn't be a bad idea first).

Then go sand the whole car with 400 grit.

You can get good automotive primers in spray cans at any autobody supply shop. They're great for doing spot work yourself.

ilovecoupes
10-13-2008, 01:12 PM
80 grit?

I'm impressed that you didn't bare metal the car with that.

Use several coats of high build to fill the 80 grit scratches in any bare metal (actually, and etching primer wouldn't be a bad idea first).

Then go sand the whole car with 400 grit.

yes
320 MAX
You just want to give the paint to adhere to. You should basically, just be scuffing up the paint.

mestizo
10-13-2008, 01:36 PM
SInce I know you're in Sac like I am go to Macs or sunrise paint tell them what you are doing and they will sell you a primer that will work for what you are doing. I know Macs sell's a primer specifically for lasting a while on a car that isn't going to be painted right after priming it.

Nitrous2k
10-13-2008, 01:46 PM
sorry to hijack this thread but how long can you leaved a car primed before you need to paint it??

mestizo
10-13-2008, 01:51 PM
The stuff I used lasted for 2 years outside, most primer's aren't really meant for that kind of use. That's not to say they won't last for that long, you are supossed to paint it right after priming it, if not then you have to wait till the primer is fully dry usually at least 24 hours and then rescuff it and paint it.

repda916
10-13-2008, 02:56 PM
The stuff I used lasted for 2 years outside, most primer's aren't really meant for that kind of use. That's not to say they won't last for that long, you are supossed to paint it right after priming it, if not then you have to wait till the primer is fully dry usually at least 24 hours and then rescuff it and paint it.
about how much did you pay? and how much do i need?

drftwerks
10-13-2008, 03:03 PM
fucking people and ruining cars by primering :duh:


thats why you cant find a good one to buy any longer

primer for future paint job turns into primer forever.

mestizo
10-13-2008, 03:07 PM
It's like $33 a quart and if you are only primering the outside and no jambs or engine bay then 2-3 qts should be more than enough. I did just the outside of my old car with a lil less than 2 qts.

japslapsilvia
10-13-2008, 03:09 PM
what most people dont know is most primers allow water to "penetrate" which can lead to rust, if your primering your car talk to the painter/and or the paint mfg(for final color) to see what they recomend and the amount of time the recoment before color is applied.

firelizard
10-13-2008, 03:47 PM
sorry to hijack this thread but how long can you leaved a car primed before you need to paint it??

Not very long.

I recommend against doing bodywork and priming long before you can get the car painted.

If you must wait a long time between bodywork and paint, use a sealer made for that purpose.

repda916
10-13-2008, 05:10 PM
fucking people and ruining cars by primering :duh:


thats why you cant find a good one to buy any longer

primer for future paint job turns into primer forever.
who the hell are you? gtfo of here and kick rocks.

LA_phantom_240
10-13-2008, 05:14 PM
who the hell are you? gtfo of here and kick rocks.

lmfao! So random.

repda916
10-13-2008, 05:32 PM
lmfao! So random.
:love::angel:

silpena
10-13-2008, 05:43 PM
dude your gonna need more than a regualr primer to fill in those 80 grit scratches. Not even a primer surfacer will cover those up. I reccoment getting a high solid polyester primer then regualr primer surfacer. You can get a gallon of evercoats feather fill g2 for like 65.00 at most places and all t he mek to mix it. Itll be cheaper in the long run and you can top coat it with a sealer. Just remember the mixing ratios of the primer. Some are 2:1, 4:1, 4:1:1 or 1:1:1. The last 2 are multi use primers that can be used as a builder, surfacers or sealer. Poly primer its a different story. YOu use M.E.K. same stuff used to mix fiber glass resisn but build alot better. Never use 80 girt unless its to repair an area. Next time use 180 grit around the body to remove the clear and if you dont exceed the base coat then dry sand with 220 if you went to the metal. Also tape off areas/edges that are surround your repair area so you dont scratch your paint or mouldings. Stuff like door handles are easy to ruin or the cars style lines. You only need about a quart of primer if going with the poly primer to do spot repair. Youll have more than what you need. Oh, and get a gun with a tip 1.8 tip minium but 2.2 is recommended for poly primers. I usally get all my stuff in woodland since i get alot of customer discounts from allways buying stuff.

repda916
10-13-2008, 07:57 PM
I used a da and there are not any deep scratched at all i went back and used 120 on a block and everything is smooth.

projectRDM
10-13-2008, 08:16 PM
I used a da and there are not any deep scratched at all i went back and used 120 on a block and everything is smooth.

Smooth compared to what? Concrete? 120grit is fucking rough as hell. You don't see or feel the scratches but they're there. Plenty of them.

SexPanda
10-13-2008, 08:18 PM
honestly... when you have a car with literally 10 different colors on it, white doors, a green hood, yellow fender, black fender, grey bumper, etc...

Primer just looks better lol. You could prime it, then clear it, and get a color they call "california matt silver"

silpena
10-13-2008, 09:07 PM
120 is still rough. 180 minimun if ur using a high build primer surface. All i can advise to do is use polyester primer filler. Its pretty polyester filler aka glazing filler or spot putty in a liquid form. It should cover the scrtaches with atleast 2-3 medium coats.

repda916
10-13-2008, 09:29 PM
alright but why "polyester primer" also if i do go this route do i need to put another type of primer over it or can i just paint my first coat? and what steps would i do as far as sanding goes? what grit do i start with after primer and what grit do i want to be at before my first coat of paint?

silpena
10-13-2008, 11:40 PM
the reason with the poly ester primer is becuase it has great build up. Way better than regualr or high build primer surfacer. It cover up small lows and poor feathered areas. Its been known to be used alot for cheating but just like body filler. If you put to much it will be worse. Too much of this stuff and gets gummmy and soft. Its the only choice to cover up the sand scratches you made or u can waste a whole shit load of primer just trying to fill it in.

yes u can top coat it with paint. You can wet or dry sand it. Start with 220 t\to block it and 400-600 to wet sand it. You dont need any other primers but if your going to primer the whole car i would recommend a primer sealer before to paint to seal off any substrates and all your work. Just make sure you let it dry before painting but on an average of 75 degrees it only takes about 1-2 hours to dry or 30 min if force bake it at 130 degrees. Id wait a whole day but thats just me. I use it alot of fiber glass bodied car that alot of little imperfections from its casting stage.

also this stuff requires 1.8 tip or higher. Trying to use a smaller gun and cranking up the pressure will only wear the eternal parts quicker. Make sure to not leave this stuff in your gun for more than 45 min since it hardened up and make life hell just tearing the gun apart and cleaning it. Probley even re building it if you never taken a gun completely apart.