Heater Core

[harangatang]

So
I switched my heater hoses
The line coming off the intake manifold goes to the top outlet on the heater core (with the valve)
And the bottom hose comes off the block and goes to the bottom outlet on the heater core.
I let the car warm up, turn the blower on, turn it to heat, and it sits there and blows cold air.
Both heater hoses are hot to the touch. So that would lend me to believe that the water is circulating?
Is the heater core trashed?
Is it possible there is just air in it?

Thanks in advance

[army240]

Did you bleed the system??? Open the little bolt on the water neck close to the exhaust manifold.(be carefull, it's really hot, and it spray a lot! héhé)

[harangatang]

I jacked the car up as high as I could
let it idle for like 10 minutes with the bleeder screw partially opened. ( saw some bubbles come out)
and that was about it
so
idk

[army240]

Was your temperature set to "hot" when you bleed the system? Is it a digital heather or a simple normal one... maybe your linkage aren't connected anymore...

[fliprayzin240sx]

Bleed it more. The way I bleed mine, open the rad cap, turn engine on, turn heater on full blast and start massaging the upper radiator hose. If you want to raise the front end up, that would help too. Do that for a couple of mins.

PS: What chassis is this on?

[harangatang]

its a redtop in a s14
I am going by the stock temp gauge
I dont have an aftermarket one
And I know the linkage is working
I also tried moving the valve manually, so I know the valve was opened
I will try bleeding it again tomorrow and let you guys know
I gotta go to work!
fun fun..

[harangatang]

My dad tried running water through the heater core with a water hose and that worked..
So..
Im kinda at a lose now.
He said maybe the water is not circulating, but if that was true, the water wouldn't circulate though the block either. So idk.
Is there anything that would impede the water from flowing through the core?

[harangatang]

So, for an update
I did get the heater working... for 2 days.
It was about 45-50 this morning. I turned the heater on, and it was blowing cold air, again. I dont think there is any water circulating through the heater core.. I dont know why, but I think that is the problem. Any ideas on the cause of that?

[MudRacer]

you only have water running through the system? no 50/50 mix? Whats the condition of your thermostat.

[shmiddy]

hmmmm can you show us a pick of how you put the hoses back together???????

[harangatang]

you only have water running through the system? no 50/50 mix? Whats the condition of your thermostat.

no
lol
its 50/50
and I have a almost brand new nismo t-stat

[Bigsyke]

Bleed it right;

Just keeping the bleeder screw off will NOT relieve excess air bubbles. You need to get the initial air pocket away from the thermostat via pressure, so then proper bleeding can begin.

I found once the thermostat would open, via a clear TB hose then the air pockets would circulate the system into the radiator.

How I ensured I got all of the air bubbles out was a snap on tool, filled it up with distilled water, once the thermostat air pocket was bled and the thermostat opened then the snap on tool does its job. However the first few times I had to let the fan kick on @203f, shut it down and let it cool off, top off the radiator and start it back up. Bought one off ebay for $35.

The bleeder screw looks like its on the positive pressure side of the water pump, so I would crack it open once every 5 minutes untill water would stream out. It took me 30 minutes with the snap on tool to get all of the bubbles and pockets out. Plus it helps to start with the car jacked up, and finish wtih the car level.

[harangatang]

So lets say I didnt have this said tool
How would I go about bleeding the air bubbles according to you?
Cause I have done everything else
and my feets' are fckn cold now lol

Bleed it right;

Just keeping the bleeder screw off will NOT relieve excess air bubbles. You need to get the initial air pocket away from the thermostat via pressure, so then proper bleeding can begin.

I found once the thermostat would open, via a clear TB hose then the air pockets would circulate the system into the radiator.

How I ensured I got all of the air bubbles out was a snap on tool, filled it up with distilled water, once the thermostat air pocket was bled and the thermostat opened then the snap on tool does its job. However the first few times I had to let the fan kick on @203f, shut it down and let it cool off, top off the radiator and start it back up. Bought one off ebay for $35.

The bleeder screw looks like its on the positive pressure side of the water pump, so I would crack it open once every 5 minutes untill water would stream out. It took me 30 minutes with the snap on tool to get all of the bubbles and pockets out. Plus it helps to start with the car jacked up, and finish wtih the car level.

[japslapsilvia]

that is what i have always done with pretty good results. the point of jacking up the car is to have the radiator neck being the highest point in the system right? but due to some radiator neck designs this doesnt always bleed properly.

what i do is take an old water bottle (20oz or whatever). take the label off and cut off the bottom of it. then wrap the neck of the bottle with electric tape (part where u drink from) so that you can stick it in the radiator and it wil make a seal. now use that to fill the system and keep the bottle at least half full of water/coolant and "crack" the bleeder screw open and you will begin to see bubbles come out of the water bottle.