View Full Version : Dislodged wheel stud - Can't get rim off
leash
10-11-2008, 03:18 PM
I just got coilovers for my '90 240sx and I've been tweaking around with the settings. I started to loosen the lug nuts on the passenger rear wheel and the last one just kept spinning and I've come to find out that the stud is dislodged from the wheel hub with the lug nut still on.
Now my problem is that I can't get the damn wheel off to get the coilovers and other miscellaneous parts. I just came back from a few shops and they won't even touch it.
I just want to get the stud off, I don't care if I have break if off and replace it. I just don't want to damage the rims.
So how do I go about this? (I still have the stock brake dust shield on)
The rim are 15" x 7.5" +0 so it don't really have much room to work with inside (its a stock 4 lug hub too).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40/leash998/zilvia/DSC_0270.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40/leash998/zilvia/DSC_0267.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40/leash998/zilvia/DSC_0268.jpg
cc4usmc
10-11-2008, 03:24 PM
Were you able to move the lug nut at all? If you have some play.. I'd just push the stud towards the hub and cut it from the back. But I like breakin shit lol.
firelizard
10-11-2008, 03:25 PM
Torquing the wheel back on won't pull the stud in securely enough?
NORFY
10-11-2008, 03:27 PM
do you have enough access to the centre hub nut through the wheel centre???
im thinking you could try and get the wheel off with the hub/disc attached
leash
10-11-2008, 03:30 PM
The lug nut is stuck in the stud. I even had my BF pull on the wheel to help allow pressure on the stud while I tried taking it off the nut but it just keeps spinning.
I also tried using WD40 on the lug nut to but nothing works. I'm going to get pictures of it right now to show how much play/space I have.
luisgonz
10-11-2008, 03:37 PM
I'm guessing its a steel stock wheel. You have on the car.
leash
10-11-2008, 03:41 PM
Not is not stock, its the Fastfowards/Rewinds
Here are the pictures, I've marked the 'bad' stud with green tape.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40/leash998/zilvia/DSC_0270.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40/leash998/zilvia/DSC_0267.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40/leash998/zilvia/DSC_0268.jpg
This is as far as the stud will go with me pulling it. The nut will not come off.
hks4life
10-11-2008, 03:43 PM
ive had the same problem. i tryed braking it but it dint do it. find some one with an impact wrench to get it out. thats what i had to do.
luisgonz
10-11-2008, 03:44 PM
A chisel and a hammer man, Besides it will just cause a small scratch on the wheel. THey are not te37 So its ok. Just do what I tell you and you'll be ok.
cc4usmc
10-11-2008, 03:46 PM
A chisel and a hammer man, Besides it will just cause a small scratch on the wheel. THey are not te37 So its ok. Just do what I tell you and you'll be ok.
It's a girl! :tardrim:
The ROMAN
10-11-2008, 03:51 PM
This happened to me once, I had to drill it out, but not before a buddy tried pulling the stud back in by winching his 240 to my wheel and driving away!
luisgonz
10-11-2008, 03:53 PM
If you come over my place I can do it for a small fee of a 12pack. I got all the tools.:snoop:
leash
10-11-2008, 03:53 PM
I don't see how an impact wrench would do anything since the stud will just keep spinning.
I thought of using a dremel but there really isn't any space where it sinks in around the studs.
I can hack it off but then the rest of the nut will still be on. My hands are small so when you compare it to the pictures you can see that I don't really have much room to work with.
luisgonz
10-11-2008, 03:56 PM
Get rid of the car now.:tardrim: Its never going to be the same.
leash
10-11-2008, 03:58 PM
If you come over my place I can do it for a small fee of a 12pack. I got all the tools.:snoop:
LA is a long drive for me, especially since my suspension is all out of wack. Lol. Thanks for the offer though.
I'll see if I can chisel it out, but I really don't want to damage the rim.
cc4usmc
10-11-2008, 03:58 PM
So you don't want to do what I said? It might take some work.. but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
iHeartTheTouge
10-11-2008, 03:59 PM
get an angle grinder from lowes ($30) and go right through the lug nut. angle grinders work fast.
hks4life
10-11-2008, 04:01 PM
I don't see how an impact wrench would do anything since the stud will just keep spinning.
I thought of using a dremel but there really isn't any space where it sinks in around the studs.
I can hack it off but then the rest of the nut will still be on. My hands are small so when you compare it to the pictures you can see that I don't really have much room to work with.
i though the same thing. but if you just hit it multiply times an not just hold it, the torque of the inpact wrench will get it out slowly an it wont damage your wheel
leash
10-11-2008, 04:02 PM
So you don't want to do what I said? It might take some work.. but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
The brake dust shield is still on.
get an angle grinder from lowes ($30) and go right through the lug nut. angle grinders work fast.
Won't that cut the rim?
luisgonz
10-11-2008, 04:05 PM
Here I got it. Loosen all the wheel nuts and Drive down the street and gun it to 80mhp But whatch out for the flux capacitor it will kick hard.LOL
Honestly this is getting alittle out of hand.
SimpleSexy180
10-11-2008, 04:09 PM
its either cut or drill that shit out. or nothing at all.
shops will almost use the same procedures. but you would wasting a lot more money.
The ROMAN
10-11-2008, 04:14 PM
I still have my old stud, I think it brought me and my car closer together. I guess I used a combination of drilling, hammering and chiseling. You can't see it, but I drilled straight through and the broken bit is still in there. Drilling is probably the way to go if you don't wanna destroy your wheels.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/9082345029386/1011081809.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/9082345029386/1011081809a.jpg
Mr. Camshaft
10-11-2008, 04:48 PM
I had the same problem. Tried Dremel and that was a waste of time. Just hit it with an impact hammer. The impulse from that should be enough to get the lug loose enough to spin off. Make sure it's a good impact wrench with a fuckload of torque.
cc4usmc
10-11-2008, 04:50 PM
The brake dust shield is still on.
I know, that's why I said it would require a little work.
Good luck
ross.cottrill
10-11-2008, 04:55 PM
this very thing just happened to me!!heres what you need to do but you need someone to help you out!first you need someone with a big flat head screwdriver to get behind the wheel while you push in the stud it will stick out on the backside then he(or she,but id use a guy because this requires some force type muscles but no offense to women at all!)need to stick the flathead under and pry out on the head of the stud ,at that time you need to take an impact gun and try and zip it off.it will take a few times so dont give up quick.we also kinda tilted the impact wrench alittle to get the stud to stay in place.hope this helps!GOODLUCK!!!!
DreamN
10-11-2008, 05:04 PM
why haven't you just taking a dremel with a fiberglass cutting wheel to the lug nut down the center? it won't require you lifting the car. it won't cause damage to your wheels. and you do have space to work with a dremel. It'll take awhile, but it'll work. Just have someone keep the lug nut stationary with a wrench from the opposite side of where you're cutting.
Oh and incase you don't figure out a good angle from cutting, it would be from the bottom of the lug nut with a slight angle because of the wheels spokes. Make sure you go all the way through. Spin the lug nut and repeat so that it just splits open.
I can do the work, but I won't be as nice as Luis charging only a 12 pack. lol
ej2civic
10-11-2008, 05:12 PM
got and idea. Cut the head of the nut off so it is like and open lug, then slot the stud so you can put a flat head in there, then use a regular open head wrench and thread it off while holding it with the screwdriver.
DreamN
10-11-2008, 05:16 PM
^ that's actually a really good idea.
Goldeneye9mm
10-11-2008, 05:17 PM
ok you have enough slack to try this
1.take the other 3 off then get yourself a grinder that fits through the spokes in the wheel. it cant be an angle grinder it has to be the one thats shaped like a capital T haldle being the lower part top being the disk.
2. now take the disk off as it will not fit through the wheel put the tool through the closest opening to the stud then reasemble it behind the spokes w/ the air or power off to prevent damage. you could mask off any surfaces that could recieve damage if you're that worried.
3. once its assembled there have someone pull on the wheel to create a gap between the brake rotor hat and the back surface of the wheel exposing the threaded part of the loose stud and cut till the wheel comes loose.
*just make sure the the person puling isn't pulling too hard otherwise the break free moment could hurt someone or further damage the wheel.
good luck
luisgonz
10-11-2008, 05:20 PM
I knock it out quicker then you can say Jojomamatothegetthefuckoutthisroom
DreamN
10-11-2008, 05:21 PM
^^^ I really don't see that working at all with the limited space behind the wheel.
:tweak: OK.. The following actually happened to me after i flew down to buy a car i new nothing about 600+ miles from home w/o tools. Its not like your transmission crossmember bolts stripped out on the drive home from Phoenix-Salt lake City. And your transmission fell to the ground at 80mph and broke to shit.. And your driveline spun around and beat the shit out of your undercarriage. THAT wasnt as big of a deal as your making this repair up to be.
this very thing just happened to me!!heres what you need to do but you need someone to help you out!first you need someone with a big flat head screwdriver to get behind the wheel while you push in the stud it will stick out on the backside then he(or she,but id use a guy because this requires some force type muscles but no offense to women at all!)need to stick the flathead under and pry out on the head of the stud ,at that time you need to take an impact gun and try and zip it off.it will take a few times so dont give up quick.we also kinda tilted the impact wrench alittle to get the stud to stay in place.hope this helps!GOODLUCK!!!!
This works alot of the time.
OR if you have access to the welder you could jack up the rear a little bit, and tack weld your lug nut. Then remove. I would only do that if you plan to upgrade to 5 lug soon as the heat from tack weld could possibly damage the wheel bearing.
Either way, its not that big of deal. I would rate it as a 3.5 diff out of 10
Max time repair on this.
with proper drill bits-1.5 hours
with angle grinder-1.3 hours
with tack weld-10 min.
If it comes off with impact gun-15 min:tardrim:
REDNECK WAY! (most lazy tire shop guys do it this way)
IF the wheel is steel (looks like its not) you could use the tiny tipped oxy-acetylene torch and burn through the lug nut strait into the stud. Then kick the wheel hard as fuck with car in air and it comes off rather easily.
If the wheel is not steel you can cause heat damage to it. It is also possible to cause heat damage doing it on a steel wheel but unlikely.
I DO NOT CONDONE THIS METHOD.
ross.cottrill
10-11-2008, 05:46 PM
^^^ I really don't see that working at all with the limited space behind the wheel.
didnt i just say that this just happened to me or did you not see that part?i only suggested it because thats what i just did 2 days ago and it worked for me!!
firelizard
10-11-2008, 07:22 PM
I think cutting that lug nut off is the fastest and wisest method.
Looks like a cheap common spline drive anyways, no big loss.
projectRDM
10-11-2008, 10:28 PM
I've never done any of that, you guys make it hard by crazy ass cutting and grinding. I take the hub/rotor/wheel/caliper all off in one assembly, just unbolt the caliper from the spindle and take the center nut off the hub. Now you've got the back side of the hub completely accessible by laying the wheel on it's face, push the stud back through the wheel until it's flush in the seat, then chisel the end off of the stud. It will fall right out the other side.
The only problem here is if the stud has been moving around the hub is probably damaged. The knurls in the hub can be worn down easily from a stud rotating against them.
luisgonz
10-11-2008, 10:32 PM
Sale the car and end of story.
derek_s13
10-12-2008, 12:45 AM
got and idea. Cut the head of the nut off so it is like and open lug, then slot the stud so you can put a flat head in there, then use a regular open head wrench and thread it off while holding it with the screwdriver.
best idea in the thread right here. i was gonna say to slot the rear of the stud, but this is smarter. you've gotta destroy the lugnut anyway.
do this.
CrimsonRockett
10-12-2008, 01:41 AM
Friend had the exact same thing happen.
We did the following.
1. Drill
2. Remove wheel
3. Replace stud
Done.
Just be careful when drilling.
NORFY
10-12-2008, 09:54 AM
i was on about removing this centre nut
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk280/norfy999/DSC_0270.jpg
all you would have to do is unbolt the caliper carrier and move it out as far as possible, then undo the large hub nut above and pull the wheel off with the hub and disc.
this would allow you access to the back of the stud, meaning you could drill/cut the back off without having to worry about damaging your rim
Keith
10-12-2008, 10:46 AM
Easy fix with no wheel damage, I done it twice.
The tool needed is a metal hacksaw blade, tape the end's for better grip. Then cut the stud behind the wheel, it just takes alittle time.
theslows13
10-12-2008, 09:15 PM
ok, zilvia. riddle me this.
i have arp 20mm extended studs, gorilla spline-drive, open end lugs, and wheels with NOOO usable gap from the OD of the lugnuts to the ID of the wheel lug opening... so a bolt extractor will NOT fit...already wasted $25 from snap-on on that.
how do i remove said situation? drill the stud the whole way out?
what do you guys recommend? the stud is seated perfectly. the nut was just over-torqued to the wheel/stud.
DreamN
10-12-2008, 10:08 PM
didnt i just say that this just happened to me or did you not see that part?i only suggested it because thats what i just did 2 days ago and it worked for me!!
My post wasn't directed to you. It was directed at GoldenEye9mm.
soreballz
10-12-2008, 11:25 PM
Update:
She got the nut and stud removed. The splines on the stud were completely stripped from the hub.
Fun!
I10cruiser
10-13-2008, 03:31 AM
I knock it out quicker then you can say Jojomamatothegetthefuckoutthisroom
hahaha :keke::keke:
leash
10-13-2008, 08:35 PM
Update:
She got the nut and stud removed. The splines on the stud were completely stripped from the hub.
Fun!
Yup.. but my wheel wasn't spared. About two days of cutting and drilling did it. But now I gotta replace the hub.
Thanks for everyone's tips though. I'll definably try those other methods if it ever happens again to with the hatch or coupe.
Sale the car and end of story.
I would never sell the hatch, I've had it for four years. I'd only sell it if someone forked over 10k (like that will ever happen). The problems I've had with this car has been very minimal compared to the coupe.
Mr. Camshaft
10-13-2008, 11:02 PM
ok, zilvia. riddle me this.
i have arp 20mm extended studs, gorilla spline-drive, open end lugs, and wheels with NOOO usable gap from the OD of the lugnuts to the ID of the wheel lug opening... so a bolt extractor will NOT fit...already wasted $25 from snap-on on that.
how do i remove said situation? drill the stud the whole way out?
what do you guys recommend? the stud is seated perfectly. the nut was just over-torqued to the wheel/stud.
Try heating it up real good and hitting it with a good impact wrench. If that doesn't work just drill it I guess.
theslows13
10-13-2008, 11:31 PM
thanks camshaft...
anyone else? i now gotta change calipers back there too... fun... so i need to do this asap
totally forgot to mention this... the gorilla tool exploded open when i tried to loosen the nut... and in the process stripped the nut's splines so even a new tool wont fit on the nut... thats the bitch of the whole thing...
christ, this sucks
super240sx7185
10-14-2008, 03:25 AM
I've never done any of that, you guys make it hard by crazy ass cutting and grinding. I take the hub/rotor/wheel/caliper all off in one assembly, just unbolt the caliper from the spindle and take the center nut off the hub. Now you've got the back side of the hub completely accessible by laying the wheel on it's face, push the stud back through the wheel until it's flush in the seat, then chisel the end off of the stud. It will fall right out the other side.
The only problem here is if the stud has been moving around the hub is probably damaged. The knurls in the hub can be worn down easily from a stud rotating against them.
Wow if they wouldve did this it wouldve took like 30 mins with no damage lol
Devens240
10-14-2008, 11:14 PM
put a spot weld on the back side of the stud so it wont move.
theslows13
10-15-2008, 12:30 AM
got mine fixed. threw the snap-on impact on it with the bolt extractor... didnt pop it loose but the impact sure as hell bit the extractor into the lugnut... then i just used a breaker bar and cursing to loosen the lug... then threw the bitch into the trash.
problem solved. time to do brake work
soldiaboy
10-15-2008, 02:21 PM
if you have some play jack up the car, remove all lugnuts and cut it from behind the wheel.
anotherblusi
10-15-2008, 10:56 PM
Torque your lug nuts and this should never happen
theslows13
10-15-2008, 11:02 PM
Torque your lug nuts and this should never happen
yes, lesson learned. snapon truck comes tomorrow... torque wrench is on my list...
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