Working on Z32/R32 eBrake Conversion: Picture Questions

[dongoesby]

I have collected enough parts for the rear brake conversion for my S14.

R32 Backing Plate with eBrake Assemply
R32 eBrake Cable (This should not work)
R32 Rear Hub (Maybe no need since S14 might work as well)
R32 Rear Rotor 297mmx18mm

Here is some questions when I was playing with in:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC025352.jpg
The size of the rotor and back plate seems about right.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02534.jpg
The R32 hub sits flushly tight.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02533.jpg
Here is the question: The rotor needed a lot of effort to push in. As you can see, the studs are not out completely. I can push in more but it would take more effort to take out. The rotor does not seem to spin. Is it because the rust, or is it suppose to be like this? If the rotor does not spin freely against the back plate, how is it going to work?


2nd Question:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC025362.jpg
Can anybody tell me which one is right and left, so I can buy the part that is missing above.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02537.jpg
This should be a R32 cable. Would anybody able to verify the length differences between R32 and R33?


3rd Question:
http://i24.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/cc/a8/c798_1.JPG
Anybody know if this adapter fitting would work on the z32 1" master brake cylinder?


R32 Fronts Tease :D
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02542.jpg


Will keep you guys updated when everything is done. :)

[az_240]

^there is an adjuster on the backing plate... its the thing directly across from what you have circled in the pics. Adjust the drum so its not so tight.... it should spin but have some resistance.

for an s14 only the R33 lines will be a direct bolt on. You can modify the r32/z32 lines to work.... its kind of ghetto though with the cable clamps. I suggest going with r33 lines as I did.

[projectRDM]

As said above. Also, there is no left and right, the parts are reversible per side. Your only real concern is that you have the correct hub/kingpin setup, is the hub is not tabbed then you should have the taller kingpin. There's a good thread on here about the differences, scan around for it.

I'd use R33 cables too, it's complete cake when compared to rigging. You'll cry it's so easy.

[dongoesby]

Your only real concern is that you have the correct hub/kingpin setup, is the hub is not tabbed then you should have the taller kingpin. There's a good thread on here about the differences, scan around for it.

Can I have more explaination on this? The kingpin you refering is the studs? Are you affirmative that the missing part is universal for both side?

The exposed thread of the studs you see in picture #3 is not correct. I did not push in the rotor all the way in because, as said above, the ebrake needs to be adjusted in order to fit it in perfectly.

[japslapsilvia]

Can I have more explaination on this? The kingpin you refering is the studs? Are you affirmative that the missing part is universal for both side?

The exposed thread of the studs you see in picture #3 is not correct. I did not push in the rotor all the way in because, as said above, the ebrake needs to be adjusted in order to fit it in perfectly.

the king pin at the top of the assembly and its what the 2 springs are attached to. circled in red in this pic
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC025362.jpg

[dongoesby]

Thanks for pointing out the location of the kingpin. Regarding "...is the hub is not tabbed then you should have the taller kingpin." I have done few research on it, but no luck on a thread about taller/shorter kingpin.

Can anybody confirm if the missing part in question #2 works universally because the part number is different between left and right side.

the king pin at the top of the assembly and its what the 2 springs are attached to. circled in red in this pic

[projectRDM]

Argh. It's too damn late and I'm too drunk to be answering questions you fuckers.

The kingpin is the large stud that has the 27mm nut on the back of it, the circled portion shows a small section of it. Some Z32 hubs are tabbed, with a flange above the bearing, and the kingpin fits into the flange and is located by a pin on the flange. Some aren't. Those that are not fitted with a flange have a taller kingpin to make up for the difference in height by not having the flange. I don't recall the post right now but user UNISIA JECS and I both detailed it heavily in a thread, with pictures. Search for a few minutes and learn a lot, we discussed all the possibilities of Z32 hubs and ebrakes in that thread.

[dongoesby]

thanks for the constructive responds projectRDM. After searching for your earlier posts, I'm pretty sure I have the hub without tab (let's hope it is not a s14 hub). I'm still not sure on what is the deal of the thickness of the flange and the length of the kingpin. I will double check once I get back home.

Anybody got answers for other questions?

[projectRDM]

thanks for the constructive responds projectRDM. After searching for your earlier posts, I'm pretty sure I have the hub without tab (let's hope it is not a s14 hub). I'm still not sure on what is the deal of the thickness of the flange and the length of the kingpin. I will double check once I get back home.

Anybody got answers for other questions?

Why would it matter if it is an S14 hub? Still works fine. If you've got the shorter kingpin, stick a pair of ball joint nuts underneath it as a spacer, or a stack of washers. All you want to do is level it to rest against the brake shoes.

[dongoesby]

I just came back home and took some pictures of them. Here is how they look:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02561.jpg
I got the hub without tab (not sure it is Z32 NA, S14, R32 or 33)

http://zilvia.net/f/attachments/tech-talk/11483d1174793505-hub-fitment-back.jpg
I believe this is how Z32 NA hub looks like

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02560.jpg
Side shot

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02563.jpg
This is the ebrake assemply, notice the kingpin components (it is thick and reachs all the way to back plate which shows now gap in between; the black part is just grease)

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02562.jpg
This is how the back looks like with kingpin

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02565.jpg
Hub test fit. I erased some of the grease, so u can see the metal.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02564.jpg
The back seems flush with no gap.


Is everything look right? Do I need any washers? I remember there are some back plates are designed for hubs with tabs. Is it true? Does that apply here. Sorry, I didn't know there were so many variation on them and making myself so confusing.

I'm assume this is a R33 back plate because I just bought a R33 eBrake cable, and the new cable measured exactly the same as the one I have in here. Maybe the hub is R33 also since I bought it in a package?

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02567.jpg
This is the part number of R33 eBrake cable, hope it is right.

Big thanks for anyone who can chime in. And hope the rest of the questions above were answered.

[projectRDM]

That's a late model Z32 NA setup and hub. As I said, some Z32s don't have the flange on the hub, just like yours. They're identical to S14 hubs. Earlier models did, and most all TT hubs did. The kingpin is the taller version, you can see how it widens out at the base, so you're fine. That's actually a more preferred version, you can assemble the ebrakes without putting the hub in too, makes it a lot easier. I think that may be why they changed the design even.
As for the cables, they are the same length as S14 cables, has nothing to with what back plates you have, they're the exact same for Z32, R32, R33, and R34.

[dongoesby]

Thanks for the consistant help projectRDM (http://zilvia.net/f/members/projectrdm.html) !

are you also saying that I don't need to use washers/spacers (the 2 axle nuts) when using the stock S14 hub matching with this late version ebrake assemply? Are you able to identify what is the gap that needed to filled if using the wrong combination? And where is the locking point of the z32 ebrake, it locks on the middle of the hub or on the rotor?

For the ebrake cables, if they are all the exact same length, why do people suggest to get R33 cables for s14 and Z32 cables for S13?

[projectRDM]

Thanks for the consistant help projectRDM (http://zilvia.net/f/members/projectrdm.html) !

are you also saying that I don't need to use washers/spacers (the 2 axle nuts) when using the stock S14 hub matching with this late version ebrake assemply? It would great if that is the case. I don't need to do the PITA job of removing the S14 hub :D

For the ebrake cables, if they are all the exact same length, why do people suggest to get R33 cables for s14 and Z32 cables for S13?

You have to remove the S14 hub in order to put all the new shit on. Take your hub off, remove the dust shield, then bolt all the new parts on.

Have you looked at your S14 cables at all? The caliper end is completely different. There's no possible way for it to mate to the new parts. It's not a suggestion to use R33 cables, you have to use them.

[Tenchuu]

a side not that i came across on this: if you get a no BS set of R33 rear sets, at least on mine, there is no bolt holding the kingpin into the backing.

no holes punched for them, factory on the one i have. that little star shaped bolt is not there nor is there a hole for it.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m148/Dongoesby/DSC02564.jpg

[projectRDM]

You don't need it. Most don't use a locating bolt since the 27mm nut sandwiches the dust shield and upright to the kingpin. You only worry about a locating bolt so that when it's tightened the kingpin doesn't twist, striking the inside edge of the rotor's inner hub. Keeping a screwdriver or pry bar against it during final tightening ensures it doesn't rotate.