rb25 vs. auto 2jz

[1998 240sx]

Hey guys im wondering if you could help me decide which would be better to put in an s14 and the cost of the parts needed for the swap.

I need to know how much it would cost for a rb25 swap and how much it would cost for a 2jz with the auto tranny because I don't have the money for a manual one but maybe later on.

[Saskacer]

Don't even bother swaping an automatic, not even worth it. If you really want a 2jz wait until you can afford a manual. In your current situation, go with rb25.

[s13 @ fullboost]

Don't even bother swaping an automatic, not even worth it. If you really want a 2jz wait until you can afford a manual. In your current situation, go with rb25.
Words of wisdom

[96Turbo]

RB25 or go 1JZ....1JZs are surprisingly cheap

[1998 240sx]

alright then, and could someone give me an estimate on how much the swap will cost not including labor? Possibly using the NEO rb25

[96Turbo]

ha....unlikely.

i did my rb swap all out for surprisingly cheap ($5500)

expect to pay about $5-$10k...and be prepared for the worst

NEO-probably would be a little more. I've tried wiring one and they're tricky and there's not much info available on it besides pinouts (which even those were hard to find)

[s13 @ fullboost]

be prepared for the worst



very uplifting and motivating =]

[96Turbo]

seriously tho. ppl get all pumped up seeing everyone else doing swaps, and forget about how big of a headache it can be when you realize you don't know what the fuck ur doing, and are going to hafta pay someone to clean up your mess (or bug the shit out of me via PM lol)

or you could get a junk motorset that requires lots of money to fix, so many horror stories out there

[trsilvias13]

If you are into drag racing, an auto 2jz is not that bad of an idea.

[fliprayzin240sx]

If you are into drag racing, an auto 2jz is not that bad of an idea.

Thats what I was thinking when I saw the post...what people seem to forget/not know is that the auto MKIV Supras were faster on the 1/4 than the 6 speed Supras. Plus, its a pretty stout auto tranny, shit can handle alot of HP before it starts having issues.

[1998 240sx]

not really thinking of doing drag racing so I think Il stick to the rb. Just out of curiousity how much woudl a 2jz swap set me back? I've seen the engine with auto tranny's go for about 1800

[fliprayzin240sx]

not really thinking of doing drag racing so I think Il stick to the rb. Just out of curiousity how much woudl a 2jz swap set me back? I've seen the engine with auto tranny's go for about 1800

Figured about $4-$5k is a safe bet after fabrication, wiring and parts on top of the cost of engine. If you want a manual 2JZ, you might as well do an RB26 swap.

[1998 240sx]

hmm this is a tough decisions cause the 2jz bottom end can hold a lot of power and it will cost around the same for rb.... plus the 2jz has more parts readily available.. and I don't think i really need a manual..

[sr20alex]

You can always get a aristo 2jz-gte auto its pretty cheap its around 2k-2.5k if you know where to look. Thats what im doing for my sc300, Supra's auto tranny can handle a LOT of power without any problems besides the w58.

[96Turbo]

hmm this is a tough decisions cause the 2jz bottom end can hold a lot of power and it will cost around the same for rb.... plus the 2jz has more parts readily available.. and I don't think i really need a manual..

ugh...what's the point of putting in all this work to have an auto?!?!

i've driven fast automatics....meh

you can have a hell of a lot more fun in a stock Dodge Neon 5 speed than a "fast" automatic car.

[1998 240sx]

yeah but I could just get a manual later on when I get more money. unless someone knows of a cheap manual trans that could hold up to 500hp...

EDIT: found a aristo clip with a 5 speed! so I think i might just go with the 2jz

[Saskacer]

yeah but I could just get a manual later on when I get more money. unless someone knows of a cheap manual trans that could hold up to 500hp...

EDIT: found a aristo clip with a 5 speed! so I think i might just go with the 2jz
Lucky bastard... Lol but seriously, don't do the auto swap if this aristo swap doesn't come through.

[dogg4217]

How old are you, who is doing the swap, if you what tools do you have, do you have a garage? These are just questions that need to be answered to better understand your situation.

[SuicidnS13]

Ok here is a simple break down-

Rb25 swap - 2500
Mount Kit - 250 - 500
Drive Shaft - 500
Wiring - 450
Clutch - 500+
Bolt Ons to even make it keep up to a 2j - $500-1000(300whp)
Time waiting for replacement parts - Priceless

2jz Swap
2jz aristo/w auto - 1800-2000
(mk3 turbo or soarer)r154 tranny - 300-600
Soarer Shifter Extension - 60.00 (toyota of japan - 3-8 week wait)
Clutch - 500+
Wiring - 450
Driveshaft - 500
Mount Kit - 250 - 500
Bolts on to make over 400whp - 500 - 1000
Being able to go to toyota or autozone for parts - priceless!!!

And here is my excel break down for my tax return and where its going-
***Cant copy paste an excel file for some reason***

Grand total of 5500 so far. My car allready has an sr20det in it so I will be reusing my FMIC, radiator, BOV, catback exhaust ect.

[ericcastro]

or just go to RB performance on here. they have banner adds.
get a RB20.
Pretty easy swap, lotsa guys run it. lotsa help and easily doable. pair of electric fans, or Otis at RB performance will tell you how to modify your car easily to run the clutch fan.

And if you havent run a RB20, you should try it before you think you need more power. The gearing is awsome, the motor is cheaper than a SR. the power feels soooo goood!!!

just a thought.

[racepar1]

I'm sorry, but an RB in a 240 is just retarded. That motor is way too long and way too heavy for our cars. If you want Rb power with 4-cylinder packaging just build yourself a really nice KADET set-up. It has almost the same displacement as the RB with about the same size as the SR. It will end up weighing a bit less then the RB, parts will be cheaper and easier to source, and you'll have a lot of money left over compared to the rb swap. Just my :2c:

[joefresh]

hey good thing hes not asking about a really nice KADET set-up.
and its not retarded to put an rb in an s-chassis. it might not be your "ideal" setup for your racecar but hey...cant argue with sound/power of jz engines. and your point of it being too long and heavy is terrible too. so many ways around this. just my:2c:

[ericcastro]

Yeah, i said RB20 which is very different than the other RB's in wieght and money.

i would put an RB20 over a SR any day. Cheaper. I think it might be lighter than a KA? and it sits far enough back on the bay.

Drive a RB20 s13 or s14 before you judge. I used to think it was a horriable idea too.
Racepar1, your supposed to make one of our 626 events right?? check out marks RB and Drive it when you show. Betcha dig it ;)

[racepar1]

hey good thing hes not asking about a really nice KADET set-up.
and its not retarded to put an rb in an s-chassis. it might not be your "ideal" setup for your racecar but hey...cant argue with sound/power of jz engines. and your point of it being too long and heavy is terrible too. so many ways around this. just my:2c:

Sorry, but the motors just don't fit. You better have a really good cooling solution because with the engine that close to the radiator it can interrupt the flow of air across it. Add that with a big front mount taking up the grill space and you have a recipie for overheating. People have done it well enough to work, but it IS a concern. There is no way around weight distribution. A front heavy car tends to understeer. You can help it, but not totally solve it. I wouldn't bet that you would be a good enough driver to understand anyways though. And yes I can argue with power. 400hp is more than enough for an s-chasis car and to tell you the truth an s-13 would have trouble putting that to the ground effectively. 400hp is easily capable with a KADET or an SR.

Yeah, i said RB20 which is very different than the other RB's in wieght and money.

i would put an RB20 over a SR any day. Cheaper. I think it might be lighter than a KA? and it sits far enough back on the bay.

Drive a RB20 s13 or s14 before you judge. I used to think it was a horriable idea too.
Racepar1, your supposed to make one of our 626 events right?? check out marks RB and Drive it when you show. Betcha dig it ;)

I have actually never seen an RB20 in person, I have heard that they are a bit smaller and lighter though. I have no doubt that I would have an absolute blast driving and RB powered s-chasis, I just wouldn't want to build/own one myself as the swap just doesn't make sense IMO. VQ all the way for me man!

[majuljo]

cooling is an an issue but with any cars it is. and yes weight and size are the issue but 2jz and rb25 are gonna be the same. ka would be nice but then money he would put into a ka in the long run might not be what he wants. i am noobish so i might be talking out my ass but i love my rb25 and yeah it is heavy in the front and i just replaced my radiator but still keeping up with evo's and sti's for a quarter of the price is fun lol but depending on what he wants to do is the path he should go. ka-t would be baller and probably more sensible but who wants to do the sensible choice with their car. if you want to drift i would say go with the ka-t because the thing will have so much torque but if you want power go with the 2jz and if you dont have the money go rb20/25/or even better rb26!!!

[majuljo]

oh and vq would be sick lol

[joefresh]

Sorry, but the motors just don't fit. You better have a really good cooling solution because with the engine that close to the radiator it can interrupt the flow of air across it. Add that with a big front mount taking up the grill space and you have a recipie for overheating. People have done it well enough to work, but it IS a concern. There is no way around weight distribution. A front heavy car tends to understeer. You can help it, but not totally solve it. I wouldn't bet that you would be a good enough driver to understand anyways though. And yes I can argue with power. 400hp is more than enough for an s-chasis car and to tell you the truth an s-13 would have trouble putting that to the ground effectively. 400hp is easily capable with a KADET or an SR.



well considering both of these swaps will require fab work, i dont see how notching the rad. support a tad for more space would be a problem.

also without proper ducting, the radiator can possibly be blocked from fmic..with a ka or sr. so i dont see how having X amount of space between the engine and the radiator matters.

how is there no way around weight distribution? you cannot relocate items such as batteries? or get frp body parts like fenders or hoods? and you cant tell me all the extra weight from an rb or jz motor is hanging on the nose of the car. alot of it maybe, but transmissions and shit like that are heavy too.

"I wouldn't bet that you would be a good enough driver to understand anyways though"

what does that even mean? get over yourself brohammer, you/me/we drive s-chassis.

[ericcastro]

hey racepar1 (http://zilvia.net/f/members/racepar1.html)
your totally right about the issues. cooling is always a problem with any RB. But they, (RB performance) has a pretty good plan for the RB 20. And its wieght isnt that much of an issue despite the length.
any other RB though, and i totally agree man. they get heavy. but anything over a RB20 will absolutely be hard to put to the wheels. on paper its good, but a straight six with that much power in a S13/S14 is alot to manage. they got great torque. so even the RB20 is pretty slippery sometimes.

racepar1 (http://zilvia.net/f/members/racepar1.html), even if your not running, you should come out. I've been lurking on your post and knowledge and would love ta meet ya. plus you can play in an RB20 :)
of course im still a SOHC, lol. so you gotta drive some of the other cars. but us 626DRIFT guys are cool, so just ask :) I vouche for ya.

Im drunk,
night :)

[Grenade180sx]

im seriously tired of hearing about weight. the rb's 1jz' have the weight difference of a full tank of gas to the front of your car so give or take say 100lbs.. like really. so take your little brother put him on the front of your car and go drift. tell me if you under steer.

if you dont know what your talking about then stop. if it was SO horrible kuroi wouldnt run a RB26 or a 1jz for as many seasons as he has been.

seriously. get over it.

and fact of the matter is i dont have 3-5k to put into a motor to have forged internals to make it "reliable" hence the reason i have a 1jz. i can make 300-370 to the wheels all day everyday. cooling is pretty basic with ducting and airflow. Myself and my buddy just finished his RB25 with a T67 and he can hit HTM back to back and the highest temp he has ever seen is 100c when its was in the 90's outside.

so to the OP do look at all your options first then make a plan of attack.

[txrxs]

This topic is so general. Very window shopperesque. Why do you want a rb25 or 2jz? Is it because you want cool points or is there a specific reason? You can make good hp with other motors. You also seem to scoff at the idea of 1jz, why would that be? Because you'll get less points at HIN? I just don't get it. From your username I can see that you have a 98 S14, so by that logic you've most likely got a ka with decently low miles that's probably in good shape. If budget is such a big deal, why would you want to do rb25 or 2jz? Why not boost your ka? This thread is pointless.

[yingiang]

You can usually pick up an auto 2jz for typically around 2gs, you would need an r154 tranny, custom drive shaft, front xmember, and a tranny xmember. If you were going to do 2jz swap you should try and find an 5 speed aristo motor since the shifter is extended, saving you the headache on buying and modding the shifter box. Also its advised for you to swap the jdm turbos, cam shafts, and injectors. The jdm motors have ceramic turbos smaller injectors and cam shafts. I've estimated a guarenteed 5gs just for motor and some parts. If you want a more cost effective swap then go with an rb25 seeing how much cheaper they are.

1jz would be good . They go for 1500-1700 with 5 speed. They are as good as 2jz swaps. The hardest part for 2jz swaps is finding an r154 transmission. I had a 2jz-ge but couldn't find myself an r154 it came with a 5 speed w58 or something.

I got my 2jz swap kit though all I really need is a motor and getting it wired up

[tunersedge]

your going to appreciate the monster of a motor the 2jz is, the swap is NOT that complicated, plus if you take your time to source the parts you need and assuming you do all the labor yourself you can look to spend ~$5-6k. Plus the 2jz can handle a ton of power on a stock block, 700hp++++ is made on stock 2jz blocks...

either route you take however you need to do your research, then do some more research and then some more. Knowing what you need and need to do is imperative in these types of swaps, especially when your going cross platform...

oh, dont waste your time with an auto...save up and get a manual.

this discussion has been held many times, there are multiple forums where you can gather information from.

[nismo250r]

Sorry, but the motors just don't fit. You better have a really good cooling solution because with the engine that close to the radiator it can interrupt the flow of air across it. Add that with a big front mount taking up the grill space and you have a recipie for overheating.

They fit . . .period. Usually people who swap these engines also upgrade their cooling with thicker, more efficient radiators, larger air dams, etc. There are lots of s-chassis with RB's swapped here in Edmonton; never seen an issue with any of them overheating. . .

There is no way around weight distribution. A front heavy car tends to understeer. You can help it, but not totally solve it. I wouldn't bet that you would be a good enough driver to understand anyways though.

YouTube - Nissan Silvia S13 RB26Dett perfect Driff in D1 GP!! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUKobzU6Hxo)

RB26 S13. . .soooo much understeer. . .have you weighed in an s-chassis with any rb's or driven one before?. . .or are you basing your statements on your own theories?

And yes I can argue with power. 400hp is more than enough for an s-chasis car and to tell you the truth an s-13 would have trouble putting that to the ground effectively. 400hp is easily capable with a KADET or an SR.

I agree with this section 100%. . .


I have actually never seen an RB20 in person, I have heard that they are a bit smaller and lighter though. I have no doubt that I would have an absolute blast driving and RB powered s-chasis, I just wouldn't want to build/own one myself as the swap just doesn't make sense IMO. VQ all the way for me man!

I love VQ's as well. . .here's mine in my S14. . .

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/nismo240r/Cosworth/Cosworth011.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/nismo240r/Cosworth/Cosworth019.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/nismo240r/Cosworth/Cosworth020.jpg

I'm also in the process of building an RB26 swap into an S14. . .I'll provide pics of that buildup later. .

[racepar1]

Why the hell does everyone keep referring to drifting in response to the weight distribution argument? That argument is much less of an issue on a drift car than an actual track car. The problem isn't getting the rear end to slip predictably, the problem is getting both the front and rear end to GRIP consistently. I don't have to see a weight sheet to know that the RB series engines would increase the weight at the front of the car by 100-200lbs (maybe more), that is about how much heavier the engines are than the kade's and SR's respectively.

[Grenade180sx]

proper suspension set up can counter the extra weight of the engine to a point, but for time attack, lighter will always be better

[beeracing s14]

marco of sr20store got his s13 with rb swap didnt he? just contact him for you to see the car.

[landins13]

if you do the entire swap yourself an rb25 in parts is going to cost you around 6 grand. pay a shop to do the wiring and call it a day everything you need to do the swap you can find on here if you search through the bible there is a link to a nicoclub forum with full instructions

[tckracker]

Okay, I've gotta do it...
LS1!!!!!!
Haters ready, set,.... GO!

If budget is an issue, do what I did buy a wrecked 2000 Camaro SS for 2500 and part the rest of the car out.
After selling the KA running gear to a guy with a 510 and the SS part out,
I put a LS1 w/ a T56 and used the stock aluminum driveshaft (length modded and balanced $230) and welded up my own mounts.
FOR $550 out of pocket so far!!
Just a thought.
Truthfully the OP needs to share what the hell he wants to do with his car = drift, autocross, street, Roadrace, etc...? How much (cash in hand/not tooth fairy money) you have to spend?
Are smog laws an issue, like with California...?

If you want "our" collective opinion give us some facts. There are some great engines to swap into our cars but with out knowing what you want to do with it, all you're going to get is a HUGE argument between people with different setups and different uses for their cars.
Good luck with whatever you chose.
-Shaun

[1998 240sx]

Mostly for street right now, want around 500 at the crank. If I could find a track I would definetly try drifting. In the future when I get more funds I'll probably go for around 900hp and set it up for drag. I have around 7k to spend plus whatever I would get from selling the KA.

[dogg4217]

2jz or lsx swap case closed.

Since you don't have the lsx as your option then 2JZ all the way.

[number80]

Oh dear another window shopping thread. Do you even know how freakin fast 500 at the crank is on you s14? Judging by your questions you'll most likely take it to a shop. $7000 will probably get you a nicely RB25 build with some nice quality upgrades. Not sure about the 2JZ but you must remember that when you do all this stuff it's wise to upgrade radiator, clutch, water pump, timing chains/components, seals, gaskets, ect ect and then you'll realize dam this is a money pit.

Like another member said, expect the worse. If you just want street power I say just do a fully built KA-T build. With the right turbo and EMS you should be around 400-600 no problems. However you don't score any JDM points :ghey:

Good luck though.

[MeanS14]

I'm sorry, but an RB in a 240 is just retarded. That motor is way too long and way too heavy for our cars. If you want Rb power with 4-cylinder packaging just build yourself a really nice KADET set-up. It has almost the same displacement as the RB with about the same size as the SR. It will end up weighing a bit less then the RB, parts will be cheaper and easier to source, and you'll have a lot of money left over compared to the rb swap. Just my :2c:


Guess im retarded then.......LOL

I spent about 8k for everything and here is where im at now
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/silviasr20driftkingalex/mys14008.jpg

I love my rb and i think its worth every penny i spent on it!!

1JZ are nice too and I think a bit cheaper......oh and they have more hp stock and rev higher

[8Nismo9]

well i know we are talking about RBs and 2jz but i gonna put this out there.....L S 1

[JRas]

proper suspension set up can counter the extra weight of the engine to a point, but for time attack, lighter will always be better

bolded and underlined


how is there no way around weight distribution? you cannot relocate items such as batteries? or get frp body parts like fenders or hoods? and you cant tell me all the extra weight from an rb or jz motor is hanging on the nose of the car. alot of it maybe, but transmissions and shit like that are heavy too.


because you can only lose so much weight in the front of the car, it's unreasonable to think you would be able to correct the weight distribution of hundreds of pounds.

rb25, rb26, 1jz, 2jz are all great engines.. they just add weight to the front of the vehicle, which is going to affect the handling adversely.

VQ weights less than a KA
LS1 weights something like 60 pounds more overall
SR weighs less than KA

I'm going with one of those engines, as I want to lose weight upfront to even the weight distribution further.

after of course I learn to drive the KA well :duh:

I guess it depends on what you want to do with the car? drag racing it's not nearly as important as it would be in road racing or time attack

[S13Boosts]

RB so easy than a 2JZ or a 1

[unlegendary]

VQ35DE all the way, it'll cost as much as a rb26 swap or a VH45 swap.

[justaKAiswear]

To the 2J RB question... pretty interesting, my roomate and I have both in our garage now! He is doing a forged RB20 and I picked up a 2J auto with intent to find a manual. AFTER finding the motor and putting pen to paper for a swap kit, basic upgrades and wiring.... plan on $4-5 K easy.

I thought about it and put my money towards a certain American V8.... :D Still have the 2J, maybe another shell another day. Im a big Toyota fan, (my DD is an MR2 turbo) but the problem of sourcing everything to swap in the manual tranny is really prohibitive of the whole swap. Along with the cost of the swap mounts. and the shifter relo. Its just EXPENSIVE. especially for what it is. For the cash involved, I dont see how you couldnt go v8 or very upgraded SR. just my .02 though, Im sure plenty are about to flame the Cheby swap. My first 3 cars were Camaros, I love torque! Give me a break!

[JRas]

VQ35DE all the way, it'll cost as much as a rb26 swap or a VH45 swap.

VQ is good but the wiring is complicated

[Silverbullet]

Why the hell does everyone keep referring to drifting in response to the weight distribution argument? That argument is much less of an issue on a drift car than an actual track car. The problem isn't getting the rear end to slip predictably, the problem is getting both the front and rear end to GRIP consistently. I don't have to see a weight sheet to know that the RB series engines would increase the weight at the front of the car by 100-200lbs (maybe more), that is about how much heavier the engines are than the kade's and SR's respectively.

dont forget the fact that because the engine is also longer, there is an increase in the moment arm from the CG of the car and from the front cross member.

[joefresh]

bolded and underlined



it's unreasonable to think you would be able to correct the weight distribution of hundreds of pounds.



how heavy do you think a 1jz motor is? you really think 2 cylinders is going to add hundreds of pounds? get serious. with the stock twins and junk its probably around ~120lbs.

i still feel that between different spring rates, frp body parts and simple relocating, the weight would not be an issue.

no doubt it is a lot of weight but there has been several I6 schassis that still handle fantastic.

[JRas]

how heavy do you think a 1jz motor is? you really think 2 cylinders is going to add hundreds of pounds? get serious. with the stock twins and junk its probably around ~120lbs.

i still feel that between different spring rates, frp body parts and simple relocating, the weight would not be an issue.

no doubt it is a lot of weight but there has been several I6 schassis that still handle fantastic.

obviously my goals are different than yours

in the end, you just want to get back to stock, while I want an improve from stock.

[joefresh]

im not saying one motor is better than the other..but some people are saying the I6 motor is too long, too heavy, too much weight on the front of the car etc. its all bullshit. and i would hardly consider a car like i described earlier "just getting back to stock" good luck building your highly improved s-chassis.

[handinpants]

or you could get a junk motorset that requires lots of money to fix, so many horror stories out there


where in california, particularly southern, would i buy one of these junk motorsets that would cause me a headache? seriously,... so anyone else who reads this thread can see where to avoid :o)

[handinpants]

I need to know how much it would cost for a rb25 swap and how much it would cost for a 2jz with the auto tranny because I don't have the money for a manual one but maybe later on.

what i want to know is
1.what you are going to be using your car for, and why you chose these two motors? are you drifting, time attack/ grip, drag racing.
2. automatic, why?
3. total amount of money you have available to spend on this project?
4. are there any other modifications already done on the vehicle, brakes, suspension, as it is only logical that you will need to upgrade your stopping power while increasing your engine power. and are you aware of the costs associated with these.


I have an sr. I wanted something that offered me good everyday driveability, adequate power, great response and would not put a dent in my wallet. (haha)
But i never did add in all the damn things i would end up buying for my car to make it go faster stop quicker. and well .. ( i am happy with everything about my car except for the wheel hop i get when drifting)

Make a list and make sure you're buying exactly what you need.

don't forget to set aside extra money for hookers and beer.

[trsilvias13]

Mostly for street right now, want around 500 at the crank. If I could find a track I would definetly try drifting. In the future when I get more funds I'll probably go for around 900hp and set it up for drag. I have around 7k to spend plus whatever I would get from selling the KA.


May I ask why do you need 500hp at the crank for the street? Do you have a pic of your current car? I just saying wasting $ on just the motor is not that smart. Get your car maintenance and such up to par first before modding.

And you finally stated your goal - drag racing. Either motor is fine, but get your chasis in great condition, suspension, tires, brakes. If you have that much power, make sure your car can handle and stop.

[number80]

First off I don't think the OP ever said he wanted to go autocrossing, or build a road racing car so I don't know why the debate is all bout weight on the front. Some people just want to build a fun street car and not look to take their car into competition racing.

[vodka2]

when you decide to go rb25.. which you will i got some stuff for sale check it out http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/223196-s13-s14-r33-jdm-rhd-tein-ssr-dmax-new-tanabe.html
id prefer rb25 over auto 2j just because rb parts are easier to get hold of then 2j and since your in the us .. rb would be the over all best choice.. and stock rb25s got about 230 hp .. not much less then the 250 2j

[1998 240sx]

when you decide to go rb25.. which you will i got some stuff for sale check it out http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/223196-s13-s14-r33-jdm-rhd-tein-ssr-dmax-new-tanabe.html
id prefer rb25 over auto 2j just because rb parts are easier to get hold of then 2j and since your in the us .. rb would be the over all best choice.. and stock rb25s got about 230 hp .. not much less then the 250 2j

Sorry I didnt reply for so long but I completely forgot about this thread. And to the guy above me since when does the 2jz make 250hp? The jdm spec made 280 and the us one made 320! Plus the fact that the engines could produce up to 800hp on the stock bottom end!! How are rb parts supposed to be easier to get ahold of in the US??