replacing head gasket

[SR20DET S14]

does anyone have simple yet descriptive instructions on replacing head gasket? i have a hayne's manual but the instructions seem to take the whole thing apart.
if you could please email it to me i'd appreciate it.

thanks in advance

[Kreator]

Lol, you are supposed to take it apart. You have to take off exhaust manifold, and the head together with the upper intake manifold. Just like the chilton's says. Those guys did it professionally, so you can trust them. If you carefully follow their instructions, you should be fine. and DON'T MESS UP THE TIMING CHAIN! Will be a pita to set it right again. Here is a pic of how far i had to take it (although for different reasons, but that's what it should look like):
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~iminin/images/galoct1/Kre240-05.jpg

[SR20DET S14]

actually the only part i didnt like about the haynes was when they said to completely drain the oil. but if that must be done, then i guess it must be done (?)

[Jeff240sx]

I'd drain the oil too. That way you're not tempted to drive around with potentially contaminated oil (from crap falling in).
-Jeff

[Aubrey]

I am assuming that this is on a SR since you screen name is SR20DET S14. I used the FSM, not a Haynes manual, so i dont know what all it shows. First off, if its a haynes then its for a FWD (which have distributors) so you need to know how to set the CAS upon re-installation. I will get to that in a minute. First off, be prepared to be frustrated bc removing the head while the motor is in the car is a PITA! Here are some tips:

Make sure you install your cam towers and bolts in the exact same place they came out. Also, when you remove your hydrolic lifters place them in a little rubbermaid container full of oil so air doesnt get in them. I had a seperate rubbermaid container for each lifter.

Second, when you take your head bolts out be sure to measure them to see that they are still within factory length. Some motors may have seen undue stress that could have stretched the head bolts out of spec which is 6.23 inches.

Third, the timing chain is a bitch so be prepared to curse at it. Ther are supposed to be 11 links between the dot on the top of the exhaust cam (positioned at 10 o clock) and the dot on the intake cam (positioned at 12 o clock) including the links on top of the dots. Make sure to count these because its easy to have one too many. of course while you are setting this make sure the timing mark on the crank is at 0 degrees (TDC). There are six marks on the crank -5 0 5 10 15 20, so when you are putting the chain on make sure you are on 0.

TIP: Before you take your cam sprockets off turn your crank until the dots line up at 12 (intake) and 10 (exh) and your crank should be at 0 degrees. That will make re-assymbly much eaiser. The links that go above the dots then will be two silver links (there is a gold one on the crank pulley)



Torque Specs:
Cam sprockets: 94-101lbs
Chain Tensioner: 4-6lbs

Cam Towers:
1. all to 1.4 lbs
2. all to 4.3lbs
3. all to 8.7lbs

Cylinder Head bolt Tighteneing procedure:
1. Tighten all to 29 lbs
2. Tighten all to 58lbs
3. Loosen completely
4. Tighten all 25-33lbs
5. Turn each 90 degrees
6. Turn each 90 degrees again

Read your Haynes for the bolt tightening procedure to follow bc there is an order that is very important.

To set the timing:
There are two marks on your CAS. A black dot and a yellow dot (both on the shaft just infront of the gear). Turn the cas so that the black mark is lined up with the mating mark on the CAS. Once you push it in is should turn to line up with the yellow mark (the mating mark should line up with the yellow mark once pushed in).

Once your car is back together and you start is up let is sit for a while. Then, once it is warm, you will need to set the timing at 15 degrees.

This is just an overview of what you need to do. Make sure you have the Haynes and double check everything.