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LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 03:51 PM
My s14 has been having an odd series of problems lately, and now I think I'm at the breaking point between driveable and not driveable.

Symptoms:
-Hard starting. Takes a few seconds, sometimes 10-15 seconds, to start.
-Once it starts, it kills. If I give it throttle, and let off very lightly, it will stay running, but idle at like 400 rpm.
-If I put just a tiny bit of pressure on the fuel line going from the filter to the inlet on the rail, she kills.
-If I drive it, when I first take off, it seems normal. Less power than it should have, but it works. When I push on the pedal to accelerate, it bogs out and dies until I let my foot off, and in a couple seconds it resumes running. When idling in neutral, I can give it a tiny bit of gas and she revs. I dunno how high exactly cause my tach wasn't working right, as usual. If I give it a decent amount of pedal, she pops and sputters and slowly revs. This is followed by killing as it comes down.
-Pulled ECU code, and was only getting a code 105 (EGR).
-Started it up and let it idle for a while and played with the throttle, and now I'm geting code 25 (IACV).
-A coulpe weeks ago, it was only having a problem with an intermittent miss on the highway and under mid to heavy acceleration.

I really don't think the IACV has jack shit to do with anything. I'm thinking my fuel pump is el toasty, given if I play with the fuel hose I get death. The return hose doesn't feel like it has any pressure on it either.

I need this thing running FAST. Help please?

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 05:11 PM
Should fuel come out of the hose coming off the regulator to the tank, when the car is in 'run' position? How much should come out when that hose is off, and its idling? Cause with the car off in the run position, I get none. With the car on, I get only a small bit coming out.

projectRDM
10-05-2008, 07:16 PM
Very little, the pump only primes for a few seconds. Have you checked the fuel pressure at all?
If the pressure is good you could have one or more bad injectors, unplug each one and see if there's any change.

Rnz520
10-05-2008, 07:29 PM
It sounds like a fuel problem. When was the last time you changed your filter or maybe your fuel pump is going bad.

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 07:30 PM
It changes quite dramatically when I unplug injectors. I have a new pump in my hand... I just don't wanna install it and not have that be the problem and be out of nearly $100.

Filter was changed to a Z32 about 2 months ago.

Never checked the fuel pressure cause I can't find a damn gauge. All these gauges they sell at auto parts stores are for domestics that have ports for checking pressure... ya know... cause they break down all the time and shit.

bbejj123
10-05-2008, 07:36 PM
it sounds like a weak pump... are you still running the stock pump? after all its probably around 12 years old

u might just want to get a walbro 255 its around 100 bucks and when i got it it helped with my gas mileage as well

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 07:37 PM
it sounds like a weak pump... are you still running the stock pump?

Yes'm. With your basic boltons.

166k on the factory JECS pump. I'm leaning toward the pump.

projectRDM
10-05-2008, 07:41 PM
It changes quite dramatically when I unplug injectors. I have a new pump in my hand... I just don't wanna install it and not have that be the problem and be out of nearly $100.

Filter was changed to a Z32 about 2 months ago.

Never checked the fuel pressure cause I can't find a damn gauge. All these gauges they sell at auto parts stores are for domestics that have ports for checking pressure... ya know... cause they break down all the time and shit.

Hmm. That means the injectors are working, but you may still have limited fuel supply to them. I'd test the pump out of the car, seems that's the issue and you'll have it out anyway to replace.

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 07:42 PM
Hmm. That means the injectors are working, but you may still have limited fuel supply to them. I'd test the pump out of the car, seems that's the issue and you'll have it out anyway to replace.

The pump pumps... I just don't know how much... Fuck it, I'm gonna put the new pump in.

EDIT: w00t post #1500

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 08:02 PM
Put the pump on the bracket, ready to drop in the tank!

bbejj123
10-05-2008, 08:03 PM
The pump pumps... I just don't know how much... Fuck it, I'm gonna put the new pump in.
good thinkin...it sounds like the pump...im also curious if using a z32 filter takes more pressure to push the gas through or is it the same as a stock one? that may be one of the problems if it does but im not very familiar with the fuel filters....after installing the pump get us an update so we can cheer or help u figure out what else is wrong :2f2f:

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 08:27 PM
good thinkin...it sounds like the pump...im also curious if using a z32 filter takes more pressure to push the gas through or is it the same as a stock one? that may be one of the problems if it does but im not very familiar with the fuel filters....after installing the pump get us an update so we can cheer or help u figure out what else is wrong :2f2f:

lol. If it doesn't fix the problem, the only things I can think of are the regulator, MAF, dizzy, IACV (for the idle problem), or ECU.

The Z32 doesn't need more pressure to push the fuel through. Its just bigger than stock, and therefore should theoretically be able to filter more crap out before having to be changed again. I would assume that with its larger surface area, it would require less effort to push the fuel through.

bbejj123
10-05-2008, 08:33 PM
but also if its larger than the stock one that may also cause the out line from the fuel filter to be lower pressure...its like blowing through a straw the air coming out the other side will be a higher pressure as compared to blowing through a pvc pipe where the pressure will be a lot lower of the air coming out...so that may be the problem as well

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 08:41 PM
but also if its larger than the stock one that may also cause the out line from the fuel filter to be lower pressure...its like blowing through a straw the air coming out the other side will be a higher pressure as compared to blowing through a pvc pipe where the pressure will be a lot lower of the air coming out...so that may be the problem as well

Not necessarily. Pressure is not made in the filter, but at the regulator. If you're making pressure at the filter, its dirty lol. Take a straw and blow up a balloon. Now take that straw, and somehow rig it up where the ends are the same diameter, but the midsection is a larger diameter... and blow up the balloon. As long as the inlets and outlets are the same size, you should theoretically come out with the same resistance to flow.

As long as the regulator is doing its job and restricting the flow of fuel back to the tank, pressure should remain the same no matter what filter you use, provided it is large enough to effectively flow enough fuel to the motor.

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 09:43 PM
Got some good news and some bad news.

Good news:
Car starts much easier, and has a TON of fuel coming out of the regulator, where it was just a dribble before.

Bad news:
Car still idles like hot asscrack.

God this car is being gay.

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 10:14 PM
I unplug the IACV harness, no change in Idle. I think the valve IS bad. Fuck me fucking sidefuckingways.

bbejj123
10-05-2008, 10:15 PM
so did u install the new fuel pump? or it just fixed itself? and if its having idling problems then u may need a new iacv like the ecu said earlier

"If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/ECU) temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor."

LA_phantom_240
10-05-2008, 10:17 PM
so did u install the new fuel pump? or it just fixed itself? and if its having idling problems then u may need a new iacv like the ecu said earlier

"If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU (http://wiki.seloc.org/a/ECU) temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor."

Huh?

Yes I installed the new pump. Works fantastic. So turn the car to run position, and unplug the CTS?

bbejj123
10-05-2008, 10:28 PM
haha sorry i got that little bit of info off of wiki tech... i believe it is talking about the cts im not exactly sure... and this is where my experience ends =/ ive never had to deal with the iacv i would say just get a new one since its running a code but this piece of equipment is quite expensive like 150 for new i would try to find a used one and see if that fixes the problem or try one from one of your buddies 240 and if ur car runs fine then thats the problem

projectRDM
10-05-2008, 11:31 PM
but also if its larger than the stock one that may also cause the out line from the fuel filter to be lower pressure...its like blowing through a straw the air coming out the other side will be a higher pressure as compared to blowing through a pvc pipe where the pressure will be a lot lower of the air coming out...so that may be the problem as well

Wow, that's the stupidest shit I've ever read on here. And that's saying a lot. Your 'straw' theory has one big flaw, the "straw" you discuss is the same size for both filters. No matter how much fuel is in the filter, the rate of flow is determined by the size of the outlet. The only way too increase flow, IE pressure, would be to have a larger output line and then a larger supply hose as well to the rail.

projectRDM
10-05-2008, 11:34 PM
I unplug the IACV harness, no change in Idle. I think the valve IS bad. Fuck me fucking sidefuckingways.

And there it is. Do this though, plug the main harness back in (the 8pin on the front of the intake manifold), then unplug the FICD valve only, it's the longer cylinder on the IACV housing with a purple 2pin plug. I'm curious to see if it's sticking or the actual IACV is.

Also, what happens when you crimp the IACV hose shut?

zugoi
10-06-2008, 12:06 AM
Phantom didnt you trade your s14 for the turbo 2?

LA_phantom_240
10-06-2008, 06:16 AM
And there it is. Do this though, plug the main harness back in (the 8pin on the front of the intake manifold), then unplug the FICD valve only, it's the longer cylinder on the IACV housing with a purple 2pin plug. I'm curious to see if it's sticking or the actual IACV is.

Also, what happens when you crimp the IACV hose shut?

Um... I dunno, one finger is broken on my right hand so I gotta find pliers to do that lol. I'll do it before work.

Phantom didnt you trade your s14 for the turbo 2?

Not yet. I gotta get this thing running right before I trade it. He's fixing the sunroof and windshield before we trade, so I'm gonna make sure it runs worth a fuck

LA_phantom_240
10-06-2008, 06:43 AM
When I take the purple off, it doesn't change.

LA_phantom_240
10-06-2008, 04:34 PM
Bump. I need some assistance please!

LA_phantom_240
10-06-2008, 05:08 PM
Found out hitting the A/C button turns the compressor on, but doesn't hike up the idle.

projectRDM
10-06-2008, 05:09 PM
Replace IACV. Seems like the only option.

JohnnyDrfiter22
10-06-2008, 05:51 PM
on hondas these are a problem too...Try taking it off the IM and cleanign it out with some carb cleaner.

LA_phantom_240
10-06-2008, 06:23 PM
Another weird thing... I seafoamed the valve, hoping it would clean it (and trust me, a shit ton of smoke came out the exhaust, lol), and it idled great. Took it for a spin down the street, and now it idles bad again.

Could the VSS have something to do with this?

projectRDM
10-06-2008, 09:27 PM
Another weird thing... I seafoamed the valve, hoping it would clean it (and trust me, a shit ton of smoke came out the exhaust, lol), and it idled great. Took it for a spin down the street, and now it idles bad again.

Could the VSS have something to do with this?

Not a chance. The VSS tells speed, that's it. You could leave it unplugged and the engine would never know or care.

If the A/C engagement doesn't cause idle up, the FICD valve isn't working. It's part of the IACV so there's your answer.

LA_phantom_240
10-06-2008, 09:53 PM
Not a chance. The VSS tells speed, that's it. You could leave it unplugged and the engine would never know or care.

If the A/C engagement doesn't cause idle up, the FICD valve isn't working. It's part of the IACV so there's your answer.

Okay. After I cleaned the valve I noticed something odd. It will idle low, and when I hit the A/C, it idles where it normally should. After a couple minutes of idling with the A/C off, it drops even harder where you can't even hear the engine, but you can see its movement. At that point it gets super rich to the point where it starts emitting a small amount of fine white smoke, not the coolant smelling kind. When I hit the A/C, it idles up just a hair but lower than it should normally idle with the A/C off.

Could the IACV not working properly also cause the ECU to throw the MAF code as well?

projectRDM
10-06-2008, 10:23 PM
Yes. Poor running can throw lots of codes that aren't actually causing the problem, they're just a reaction to it.

LA_phantom_240
10-07-2008, 02:14 AM
Lame as the fuck.

jspec240
10-07-2008, 02:30 AM
man its a long shot but clean up your ground wires and attaching surfaces...(ie. buff sand what ever you have to do to see a shiny surface) and if possible combine them to a known good source. this solves many problems.....

LMK I did it to mine and solved alot of problems

SoSideways
10-07-2008, 10:40 AM
man its a long shot but clean up your ground wires and attaching surfaces...(ie. buff sand what ever you have to do to see a shiny surface) and if possible combine them to a known good source. this solves many problems.....

LMK I did it to mine and solved alot of problems

Yeah but his car acts fine for awhile, then as it sits, the conditions get worse.

If it was a ground problem, it wouldn't be intermittent, it would be constant.

LA_phantom_240
10-07-2008, 01:57 PM
And the idle problem came up rather suddenly. One day it idles fine, the next it doesn't.

LA_phantom_240
10-07-2008, 01:57 PM
And the idle problem came up rather suddenly. One day it idles fine, the next it doesn't.

Can i put an s13 IACV on my s14? My friend has a junk motor out of an s13...

jspec240
10-07-2008, 02:03 PM
Yeah but his car acts fine for awhile, then as it sits, the conditions get worse.

If it was a ground problem, it wouldn't be intermittent, it would be constant.

not really it could also be a loose ground or a short in a wire. I had a injector wire shorting on my manifold and would dump fuel from time to time... causing a shit load of smoke... not saying its that but grounds will do a lot more dammage than you think,

SoSideways
10-07-2008, 02:08 PM
not really it could also be a loose ground or a short in a wire. I had a injector wire shorting on my manifold and would dump fuel from time to time... causing a shit load of smoke... not saying its that but grounds will do a lot more dammage than you think,

I know grounds will do weird shit, but his issue does not seem to be related with vibrations or heat either.

Grounds touching on other parts and shorting/grounding out when it's not supposed to usually only happens when there are vibrations involved, or heat expansion, like when the car gets warm and now the ground is touching something it's not supposed to, and it's shorting something out.

projectRDM
10-07-2008, 02:10 PM
Can i put an s13 IACV on my s14? My friend has a junk motor out of an s13...

Possibly. The 95s have a different plug for the FICD so you'll need to swap it. I *think* the IACV may be different too, at least the 96-ups do, so cut/splice it too.

projectRDM
10-07-2008, 02:15 PM
not really it could also be a loose ground or a short in a wire. I had a injector wire shorting on my manifold and would dump fuel from time to time... causing a shit load of smoke... not saying its that but grounds will do a lot more dammage than you think,

Please shut the fuck up. How does a shorted injector wire and a bad ground have anything to do with each other?

I love any time there's a weird issue the 'ground kids' run out and suggest that. Sure, everything electrical is related to a bad ground. There's never a bad sensor, damaged unit, shorted harness, it's always a ground. We've already diagnosed the problem as being an bad IACV. But hell, it could just be a ground.

LA_phantom_240
10-07-2008, 02:42 PM
Possibly. The 95s have a different plug for the FICD so you'll need to swap it. I *think* the IACV may be different too, at least the 96-ups do, so cut/splice it too.

I could do a frankenstein by making an adapter harness out of the connectors on the old IACV lol!

Oh, and once this thing is fixed, remind me that I owe ya for all your help.

Looking at AutoZone's website, I pulled up the IACV for a 92, 91, and my 95 240, and got the same part numbers for the IACV.

UNISA JECS
10-07-2008, 02:48 PM
All IACV/AAC/Valves are interchangable for both S13 and S14, starting at 94 and above should have came with the newer IACV/AAC/Valve assemblys. The new IACV assemblys supercede the older inferior parts. This is also the same deal with the B13 SE-R, its common for the manufacturer to do this threw the years.

However the newer IACV assemblys would requires the newer subharness, its not expensive.

LA_phantom_240
10-07-2008, 02:55 PM
All IACV/AAC/Valves are interchangable for both S13 and S14, starting at 94 and above should have came with the newer IACV/AAC/Valve assemblys. The new IACV assemblys supercede the older inferior parts. This is also the same deal with the B13 SE-R, its common for the manufacturer to do this threw the years.

However the newer IACV assemblys would requires the newer subharness, its not expensive.

So I could use it, but it would be inferior to a stock s14 IACV in normal (not broken) condition?


Oh and I got another quick question that may explain why I run so pig rich... When I take off my rubber fuel return line, it seems like it has a ton of pressure... and I can't blow through the tube, like its blocked or something... Thoughts?

UNISA JECS
10-07-2008, 03:00 PM
If it aint broke then dont fix it as far as the AICV is concerned, im just letting you know that there is a newer part available but would also require teh purchase of teh newer harness, the newer unit has connectors similair to the fuel injector clips (no wire springs needed).

UNISA JECS
10-07-2008, 03:04 PM
Heres mine and I have a 91 S13 coupe.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/KA24DET%20BUILD/PictureorVideo1198.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/KA24DET%20BUILD/PictureorVideo1195.jpg

projectRDM
10-07-2008, 03:16 PM
Heres mine and I have a 91 S13 coupe.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/KA24DET%20BUILD/PictureorVideo1198.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/KA24DET%20BUILD/PictureorVideo1195.jpg

Newer IACV plugs and the EGR-T in place, but on an S13 plenum. Cut all those janky hardlines off.

LA- I forgot you can just swap the IACV subharness instead of cutting/splicing, the IAA plug is the same for all DOHC engines so it'd be easier than hacking your old harness up.

UNISA JECS
10-07-2008, 03:19 PM
Thats actually my 91 lower plentium, to much drama to make the S14 lower plentium work. But I do run teh S14 upper runneres

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/KA24DET%20BUILD/PictureorVideo1203.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/KA24DET%20BUILD/PictureorVideo1201.jpg

LA_phantom_240
10-07-2008, 03:33 PM
Damn your clean manifold!

I hope my friend has the whole subharness for the IACV....

jspec240
10-07-2008, 03:37 PM
Please shut the fuck up. How does a shorted injector wire and a bad ground have anything to do with each other?

I love any time there's a weird issue the 'ground kids' run out and suggest that. Sure, everything electrical is related to a bad ground. There's never a bad sensor, damaged unit, shorted harness, it's always a ground. We've already diagnosed the problem as being an bad IACV. But hell, it could just be a ground.

uhhh fuck you you bitch... hows that sound.... I was making a point that sometimes grounds could cause a problem. all I said in my first post if your bitch ass would have read was clean and replace. then the other dude said there was no way it could happen so I reassured him...

just cause you must have a dick in your ass and your pissed off dosent mean you have to go around talkin shit.

a simple "problem solved" would have done.

LA_phantom_240
10-07-2008, 04:03 PM
Oh and I got another quick question that may explain why I run so pig rich... When I take off my rubber fuel return line, it seems like it has a ton of pressure... and I can't blow through the tube, like its blocked or something... Thoughts?

No dice??

LA_phantom_240
10-08-2008, 08:38 PM
Okay, still need an answer on the return hose... and which valve on that manifold is the one with two plugs, and which is the long one with one plug?

timtiminy
10-08-2008, 09:03 PM
first check to see if the return line is crushed anywhere on the underbody and if it looks okay take off the gas cap and blow compressed air into the return line, should free up anything stuck in it...

LA_phantom_240
10-09-2008, 03:23 PM
No answer on which valve is which?

projectRDM
10-09-2008, 03:29 PM
No answer on which valve is which?

FSM

The unit on the back is the IACV, you should know this because I mentioned unplugging the FICD valve (the purple plug) which is part of the IACV.

The plunger looking piece is the IAA-air regulator. That is not bad because your symptoms don't dictate it, when that unit quits working the idle rises high, 1600-2000RPM, and remains constant. Plus you've already determined through the code and diagnosis that it's the IACV.

LA_phantom_240
10-09-2008, 05:12 PM
Ordered it last night. Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but I gotta go through the entire idle setting process once I get the new valve on, right?

LA_phantom_240
10-11-2008, 10:35 AM
UPDATE:

Replaced the valve last night, but didn't hook everything up cause it was like 10pm and I had been up since 4am and had been working 12+ hours per day starting at 3 and 4 am and I was exhausted. So I hooked everything up today and started her up. Took a few seconds to start (The fuel rail and everything was empty), but she didn't die when I first started her, which is a huge improvement. I can rev without it killing, but it still idles way low and rough. I have yet to properly set the idle cause my tach wants to not work.

If setting the idle the way I'm supposed to doesn't work, could I possibly have a faulty ECU?

LA_phantom_240
10-11-2008, 11:21 AM
Still getting GODDAMN CODE 25! FUCK THIS FUCKING FUCKSHIT! GAH!!