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View Full Version : ideas ideas. N/A SR cranking but no start ?


DDDsquad_s13panda
09-18-2008, 09:11 AM
well this morning when i was about to leave work. i was trying to start my car. but it was jst cracking and cracking, seems like there was no spark or such. so i checked all my plugs if they're all in tight and they are. so i had some of my co-worker push start the car, but no luck car seems like it doesnt want to start.

what could the problem be? i have checked all my relays and fuses and everything is good.

i took off my fuel hose and try to start the car but there is no fuel coming out. as if my fuel pump had failed. i do have 1/4 tank of gas. so im guessing my fuel pump went out. but how can i be definite?

any more bright ideas i can try let me know. my car is at work in the parking lot. =[. where it should be in the garage right now ='[

thnx in advance.

Massimo Power
09-18-2008, 09:50 AM
well no fuel coming out..t hats a start.. also check the fuel pump fuse.. then if that all looks in order get an electrical tester and make sure the pump is getting electricity.. if it is.. take out the pump... take it out of the car and test it.. and then there you go.. those would eb the steps to take

dubtastic
09-18-2008, 10:26 AM
my buddy had the same kind of problem yup check everything fuel related and solenoid

DDDsquad_s13panda
09-18-2008, 02:25 PM
ok. but how do i know if its the relay?. is there a way to check for that. or id really have to take the fuel pump out and check the pump?.

DDDsquad_s13panda
09-18-2008, 02:26 PM
i mightve jst well buy everything right?.

walbro fuel pump, a new relay, and a new fuel filter and strainer might help.

DRFTER34
09-19-2008, 02:10 AM
If your fuel pump is not working and you checked that it is getting 12 volts from the plug at the fuel pump then you should also check and see if you are getting spark from your spark plugs. if none if them work then it could also mean your ECU is dead, Ive had this exact problem happen to me, my car would keep cranking and the fuel pump wouldnt kick at all. so what I did was i made my fuel pump wired on straight from the battery and it still wouldnt start from there i concluded my ECU was dead so I opened it up and what do u know its fryd. I replaced it and it now runs great, check it out and let us know. If your ECU is dead I know you can use the S13 KA ECU if your harness is for a S13 N/A SR.

DDDsquad_s13panda
09-19-2008, 06:45 PM
ok well i got the car started jst fine yesterday. iono what i did and how i did... i was pushing my car while my friend was popping the clutch then it started... so i drove it to his house and left it there while were at work... this morning i try to start and now it wont even crank or nothing. all i hear is clicking sound from the ignition... WTH could this be.! its frustrating me!!!!!

DRFTER34
09-20-2008, 02:33 AM
Check and make sure all of your grounds are connected, especially behind the motor there are alot of grounds. check your ignition coil, and distributor. let us know how it goes

DDDsquad_s13panda
09-20-2008, 07:12 AM
word up DRFTER 34. thats what i was thinking now because i popped all the fuse under the hood. and both of my 25a. which are the RET MTR and ENG CTRL. are burnt out. but how do i check ALL my grounds...

ive TRIED to put a kill switch on my car. ahhh i jst pretty much elimate the pushing of the clutch before starting the car. so i pretty much hide that lil button your clutch pedal hit when u push it to start the car...... hmmm

i might jst have to put it baq the way it was. unless anyone else have a better and more understandable diagram.

DDDsquad_s13panda
09-20-2008, 07:15 AM
ok well i jst went thru like 3 fuses right now.. i disconnect the the "kill switch" i put together. i put the 25a for the EGN CTRL and it was fine but soon as i put the one for RET MTR. the damn thing sparked up. then i pulled it out and the fuse was burning hot. and this was the car not even on "ON" what could be wrong?

DRFTER34
09-20-2008, 11:31 PM
sounds like a short somewhere you might have to trace some wires and see where it is getting the extra power. Do not throw in a larger fuse or else you may start a fire. A multi meter is going to be your best friend here, I would pull the fuse box out too see what is going on back there. look for frayed, exposed or melted wires. On how to check your grounds make sure the ground is getting good contact to the frame/chassis. let us know how it goes

DDDsquad_s13panda
09-21-2008, 05:33 PM
well RET MTR i found out that Retract motor for your pop-up headlights. and i have the silvia front end. im not sure if thats the cause of it. but i took my starter out and got it checkd at autozone, and it failed. but my problem is what SR motor can i get a similar for the RWD SR. i checkd for the SE-R and the G20 and they dont look similar to mine at all..

so yea lmk which car and ill let u guys know soon as i install it =]

DRFTER34
09-21-2008, 06:58 PM
well RET MTR i found out that Retract motor for your pop-up headlights. and i have the silvia front end. im not sure if thats the cause of it. but i took my starter out and got it checkd at autozone, and it failed. but my problem is what SR motor can i get a similar for the RWD SR. i checkd for the SE-R and the G20 and they dont look similar to mine at all..

so yea lmk which car and ill let u guys know soon as i install it =]

Well if it is your starter that is dead then you can buy one from ebay which might be the cheper method, buy one from courtesy nissan but that wil be expensive i think its like 600$ for the RWD SR starter. Another alternative is Buy a KA24DE starter and swap the guts to the SR one that you have, that can be done by taking it to a place that rebuilds starters they should be able to do it. FWD starters will not work it has to be for a RWD. Also if your Alternator goes out you can use a KA one but the tensioner needs to be messed with for it to work with the KA one and the pully will need to be swapped and it will need a 1mm spacer to clear from hitting the housing, I know if you buy the remanufactured one from your parts store it should come with that 1 mm spacer from the KA one, but that is for future reference.