Hoisting a SR20DET

[Jim96SC2]

Problem: I was going to put my SR on an engine stand. Now I'm used to working with SBC's so bear with me. Normally we attached a chain to either opposing end of the opposite head and bolt it on, and up we go. I was going to do much in the same with the SR's head, but noticed that the bolts have so little thread I couldn't fit a heavy chain in at all.

So an ways ANYONE knows about to hoist an SR using a chain?

[Kid Zelda]

1. Wrap chains around the motor mounts.

Or

2. Wrap chains around the Intake and exhaust manifold
* On the intake manifold, be careful not to bend/kink the fuel rail.

[uiuc240]

Originally posted by Kid Zelda
1. Wrap chains around the motor mounts.

Or

2. Wrap chains around the Intake and exhaust manifold
* On the intake manifold, be careful not to bend/kink the fuel rail.

Uhhh...the intake mani is cast aluminum...I'm not hoisting the engine by that any time soon.

Eric

[SlowEXd]

You need a couple of these bad boys
http://sr20det.no-ip.com/hook.jpg
I can't remember If they came on my SR or if I pulled em from my KA though.

[uiuc240]

Originally posted by James
Huh? The whole engine is aluminum! You haven't lifted many engines have you?

Since you're not installing it into a car but merely up a couple feet to get onto a stand:
you can use many of the bolts- I even used the alternator bracket and it held. Just choose at least a 12mm bolt to use and you'll be okay. Don't be scared.
Lift the engine up an inch and place something under if you're worried. If it falls within 10 seconds then, yeah, you chose a bad lifting point. But if it holds- then it just plain will hold.

There are plenty of better points to attach to than the intake plenum. You can take out some of the bolts on the exhaust side (or put in bolts of your own into the threaded holes already there). The same goes for the intake side. I was just saying not to simple pass a chain through the intake mani, and hoist it up by that. That bitch is fragile and can snap if the motor is jolted.

Eric

[uiuc240]

Well, no. Can't say I have :o A reliable source (oberkill) told me to be careful with the mani because it's fragile and that when I take it out, I should take care to loosen/tighten evenly because the torque can easily crack it...just like warping a head. Anyway, that's what I'm going on. I just think it would *suck* to f*** up a mani just cuz you didn't want to pop in a couple of lond bolts to hoist with.

;)

Eric

[Kid Zelda]

Originally posted by uiuc240
Uhhh...the intake mani is cast aluminum...I'm not hoisting the engine by that any time soon.

Eric


:rolleyes: Are you sure it'll snap off ? hahahahaha
I really doubt it. Seen it/ done it many times.
But I must say, I do like using the motor mount brackets.

[uiuc240]

James, you're a beast. :D

I've carried a VW Beetle motor that way...but not my SR. :p

Eric

[RBSileighty]

I lifted my RB with a chain on the intake manifold and one screwed in with a bolt from where the A/C use to be (took it off). I had no troulble at all. Granted these are two different motors... but still.

[dilligaph]

someone asked me how i got the ka24 out, so i took these while trulson was hookin it up to help explain...maybe these pics will be helpful. 2 of these screws were plenty to hold the engine, as long as their in the block and not the head.
http://www.uni.edu/~bauers/howto1.jpg
http://www.uni.edu/~bauers/howto2.jpg
http://www.uni.edu/~bauers/howto3.jpg

[Jim96SC2]

Well, turns out you can lift it by the intake manifold without a problem. Wrapped it around 3 of the runners and hoisted away. Too bad I forgot to take off the clutch and flywheel, so down it went and stayed that way while I took off the clutch. I'll try again tommorow and keep everyone updated.

[Kid Zelda]

Originally posted by Jim96SC2
Well, turns out you can lift it by the intake manifold without a problem. Wrapped it around 3 of the runners and hoisted away. Too bad I forgot to take off the clutch and flywheel, so down it went and stayed that way while I took off the clutch. I'll try again tommorow and keep everyone updated.

Cool, told ya.
Why didn't you just take out the engine with the clutch and fly attahced ?

[SRKperformance]

untread one bolt from each motormount, preferably the same one opposite of each other, then retread it into the block thru a link in the chain. tighten it up decently tight and lift away

[Jim96SC2]

It's my motorset. Lifting by the manifold puts the engine at about a 45 degree angle, but since the engine stand tilts it's fine with me.

Zelda: I completely forgot to take the clutch and flywheel off the engine before I hoisted it, so it wouldn't fit on the stand if that clarifies things for you.

[Kid Zelda]

Originally posted by Jim96SC2


Zelda: I completely forgot to take the clutch and flywheel off the engine before I hoisted it, so it wouldn't fit on the stand if that clarifies things for you.
Not really, when you could've taken out the engine, placed it on a pallet (or somehting similar) took the clutch and fly off, mount the motor on the engine stand.
Oh well, just seemed like extra work on your part.
:p

[RBSileighty]

Originally posted by Jim96SC2
It's my motorset. Lifting by the manifold puts the engine at about a 45 degree angle, but since the engine stand tilts it's fine with me.

Zelda: I completely forgot to take the clutch and flywheel off the engine before I hoisted it, so it wouldn't fit on the stand if that clarifies things for you.
I bought a leveler... only $35 at auto zone. I didn't want anything falling anywhere... and whatnot. It also helped space the chain out so it didn't rest on the motor.

[kazuo]

heh... I'm the one who asked diligraph (? sic, prolly) how to hoist up the KA properly. ^^; We just stuck a couple bolts into the block like in the pics and it came right out, no problem.

Eventually we just wrapped chains through the motor mounts to get the SR in, works like a charm... remember, as long as they're snug through the mounts and ya dont have any slack on the chain, that engine isn't going anywhere.

Don't be scared... thats how you screw up! But its good that you asked, better than trying to gank-rigg it... thats also how ya screw up :P

Anyways, good luck and all that

[oberkill]

Careful on those intake manifolds I have seen some messy mistakes with them.... With the force being spread out over all the runners you will most likely be OK but it is very easy to just get a couple of bolts and do it right with no risk. That manifold is also bolted into and alum head and it is not designed to hold that kind of weight, again you will probably be OK but again why risk it......


To answer the original question I take longer bolts then stock and find either a unused bolt hole or remove a shorter bolt from somewhere and use that spot. I usually go diaganally from the front on the turbo side to the rear on the intake side.

Alan

[w.tungsten]

Sorry! I now this thread is MEGA old, but I was unsatisfied with the answers of use the intake and exhaust manifold. This thread shows up via google search. I felt bumping this thread was worth it for people trying to read up what to do. Here are a few options:

Mazworx makes a really affordable option from steel.
https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/194-Mazworx-SR20-Engine-Hoist-Brackets.aspx
$15! Not bad. They're steel and I think they'd work great.
https://frsport.com/images/detailed_images/31788_Mazworx_MAZ%[email protected]


SS works
https://ssworxs.com/shop/ssworx-parts-and-accessories/engine-lift-hooks/sr20det-engine-lift-hooks/ssworxs-nissan-sr20-engine-lift-hook-mounts/
$79 which is pretty pricey. Also made in steel. These appear to be lazer or plasma cut.
https://i0.wp.com/ssworxs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Untitled-13.jpg?w=400&ssl=1


Personally I didn't love either option, as I wanted something aesthetically pleasing enough to just leave in the engine bay. Removing the rear hook in the car is possible, just difficult.
https://www.theexcitingspirit.com/tes-parts/sr20-lift-hooks
$45 waterjet aluminum so no need for paint and they won't rust etc. Confirmed them on S13 and S15. As well as the ability to install them with the engine in the car. I'm not 100% either of the other options can be due to the limited space in the back of the head while the engine is installed.
https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e35e8e3deb28a1f33bdd17c/1590063668452-9M8G9SO285GE691PBWSO/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kP8N5KLxKqzW7xoy-OuA-ht7gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk72 5yiiHCCLfrh8O1z5QPOohDIaIeljMHgDF5CVlOqpeNLcJ80NK6 5_fV7S1UYAswtmfg2fJ6dgr7UAPeBhZtCnBfXt7-uVnY3X5mdIxtfYk0dVZayboTAeqjnjomg/SR20+Lift+Hook.jpg?format=1500w

[Kingtal0n]

back in the day we would always use a seatbelt wrapped around the intake and exhaust manifolds as necessary for all the JDM engine swaps

[crash n' burn]

2003

Two-Thousand, Three

Two Zero Zero Three

Ya'll seriously bumping a thread about hoisting a motor? Damn chain and some bolts, it isn't rocket science.

[jedi03]

bump to put thread on top again!

[collegekid]

back in the day we would always use a seatbelt wrapped around the intake and exhaust manifolds as necessary for all the JDM engine swaps

I have done the same in the past, but I am always fearful of snapping studs. It just doesn't sit right that I can snap a rusty stud without much torque when doing the turbo mani gasket, even though there are 8 of them.

The other point is that sometimes you need to get the manifolds off if space is tight. I should have done this because I screwed up during my install and I had to swap my turbo exhaust housing.

Brackets are ricer points that I want.


2003

Two-Thousand, Three

Two Zero Zero Three

Ya'll seriously bumping a thread about hoisting a motor? Damn chain and some bolts, it isn't rocket science.

Who the hell cares? Do we need to create a new thread every year?
Any dipshit who googles this will stumble across it one way or another.




AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAnyway.

I ordered mine from MurderFab on facebook. I ordered a set of Ka24de and a set of Sr20det Hoist brackets. Ka was $26.50 and Sr20det was $36.50 each shipped.
I would probably get them from a cheaper source as they will probably be exactly the same. These also looked hand drilled or something whereas the other brands look nicer. These are 1/4" thick steel brackets.

facebook.com/MxrderFab/

I stumbled across this company while looking for EJ25 brackets for my subaru and I didn't research other options before buying these.

[jr_ss]

I have done the same in the past, but I am always fearful of snapping studs. It just doesn't sit right that I can snap a rusty stud without much torque when doing the turbo mani gasket, even though there are 8 of them.

The other point is that sometimes you need to get the manifolds off if space is tight. I should have done this because I screwed up during my install and I had to swap my turbo exhaust housing.

Brackets are ricer points that I want.




Who the hell cares? Do we need to create a new thread every year?
Any dipshit who googles this will stumble across it one way or another.




AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAnyway.

I ordered mine from MurderFab on facebook. I ordered a set of Ka24de and a set of Sr20det Hoist brackets. Ka was $26.50 and Sr20det was $36.50 each shipped.
I would probably get them from a cheaper source as they will probably be exactly the same. These also looked hand drilled or something whereas the other brands look nicer. These are 1/4" thick steel brackets.

facebook.com/MxrderFab/

I stumbled across this company while looking for EJ25 brackets for my subaru and I didn't research other options before buying these.

If you?re wrapping around the manifolds, use some common sense. Obviously utilizing points furthest away from the head studs is going to put stress on the studs. If you lift directly adjacent to the studs on the head, there is really no chance to damage the studs, especially 8 of them.

[S14rebuild]

Feel like as the years go on, the dumbest questions come up. If you cant figure out how to hook a chain up to the motor to remove it, in what world would you have any confidence to work on the engine?

[jedi03]

he got skilz yo!