nitrous with turbo

[MyFirst240SX]

Ive heard people using this to spool up larger turbo's quicker, but on a small to medium say T3/T4 could one use a 75 shot with the turbo to make power or is there some reason this would be bad?
This would be on forged pistons with racing heads.
sean

[Jeff240sx]

Nitrous doesn't need forged pistons. Turbos dont need forged pistons.
Racing head... what?!? From what I've heard, Chris May and BoostedS14 have both had very bad experiences with ported and polished heads. It will cause overheating and warpage...

Nitrous and boost don't need forged pistons if you have a good fuel system.

So... with all that said, you can use nitrous along with a turbo, provided you have enough fuel.. and some traction. Nitrous will break tires loose, and when boost kicks in, it too, will break tires loose.
-Jeff

[MyFirst240SX]

with enough fuel the stock bottom end will only support you for so long, i have over 200k a forged bottom end for the SOHC is only 800 bucks so i thought i might as well get it from Real nissan... they have a head package they use on there drag cars and i figured why not.

[tnord]

you have how much money:confused:

[MyFirst240SX]

i just figured i was start off doing it right, instead of having a turboed 200k motor with bad rings......
but spraying on a spooled up turbo bad idea or not?

[Foxcolt]

The money you spend on a nitrous kit. Only do a wet kit if you do.
Could be spent on turbo upgrades.

Nitrous is cool and all but you'll quickly get tired of it on a street car. Filling the bottle, turning the sucker on and off, purging the line. Turning off the heater etc etc.

[MyFirst240SX]

im in pretty good with a real fast mustang crew, nitrous heater bottle kit everything but the fuel pressure regulator thing is about 200 bucks
seems like a cheap thrill

[Foxcolt]

Originally posted by MyFirst240SX
im in pretty good with a real fast mustang crew, nitrous heater bottle kit everything but the fuel pressure regulator thing is about 200 bucks
seems like a cheap thrill

What fuel pressure regulator thing? Are you talking about the zex kit?

Nitrous is all about fuel. Nozzle's running into each intake runner with the proper amount of fuel coming from a seprate seleniod is the only way to do it right.

I used to have the zex kit on my KAslow and it blew. That kit doesn't give you the right amount of fuel for the shot you are running.

Just FYI

[MyFirst240SX]

thanks i think its a holly system but i will check into that, can't you adjust the amount of fuel?

[Foxcolt]

Originally posted by MyFirst240SX
thanks i think its a holly system but i will check into that, can't you adjust the amount of fuel?

Depends on what setup you have.

Usually with a seprate fuel selenoid (holley) you would adjust the amount of fuel with jets just as you'd adjust the amount of nitrous.

[boosteds14]

i had a nitrous system with my setup back in the day,

75 shot.

it didnt impress me at all.

we sell nitrous express. best system out there because it is a wet setup. very reliable.
www.cipmotorsports..com (http://www.cipmotorsports.com)

[Foxcolt]

Originally posted by boosteds14
i had a nitrous system with my setup back in the day,

75 shot.

it didnt impress me at all.

we sell nitrous express. best system out there because it is a wet setup. very reliable.
www.cipmotorsports..com (http://www.cipmotorsports.com)

Not to contradict you as I might be wrong.

I was under the impression that a wet kit is when each nozzle being sprayed with both fuel and nitrous in drilled into each runner on the intake manifold thereby giving an equal amount of nitrous and fuel to each cylinder.

Dry kits are when only one nozzle is used somewhere in the intake tract.

How does the nitrous express one function? I've never seen one in action.

[SRKperformance]

whoa! wait a second? Port and polishing is never a bad thing for a racing motor, or for any motor for that part. Port and polishing is simply a process of removing and remachining a small amount of the material on the intake runners and the head in order to make the head flow more efficiently, thus creating smoother air flow, and more hp. A 5 angle or 3 angle valvejob is also another good way to increase the efficiancy of the head. For example if you were to say do a 3 angle valve job, port and polish, racing cams, and valve springs to a ka24de head the hp increase would be in the range of 30whp. The redline would also be increase thanks to the upgraded valvetrain (springs and cams) and the airflow efficiency would be much greater, especially with a longer duration camshaft on the intake side. Port and polishing is also a very good idea if you are runing nitrous because nitrous will increase the hp in a sudden surge causing the engine to suddenly rev faster, inducing a greater vacum. If the air can flow more smoothly and faster in this vacum or under boost more hp is had and more air can flow in. You will also need more fuel for a nitrous system bigger than 50 shot on a ka (unless you like risking your motors piston stability) via a fuel pressure reg and a bigger fuel pump. More fuel, more air, the more hp you are goin to get from making a more efficient head. The head is the most important part of the motor in making more power, the more air that can move in faster and smoother the better the hp. The bottom end can only be modified for compression and can be made stronger. ON a ka24de a t3.t4 turbo wouldnt need much more than a 35 shot of dry nitrous just before the throttle body to help quicken the revs to spool up the turbo. A t3.t4 should spool up at about 4k rpms at the latest on a ka24de, you only need nitrous on the launch or for lower rpms to get the revs up fast enough to create enough exaust gases to get the turbo to spool up to hold at whatever boost are looking to hold at. A fogger system controller by a standalone computer would be a good way to go in that regard. If i were you i would try to see where my goals are first. Do you want turbo, or do you want a na motor that can handle a large amount of nitrous. You really dont need nitrous to spool up a t3/t4 on a ka24de or even an sr20det, you might need it for say a t78 ot t88 however when the turbo doesnt spool up till 6000rpm.

[boosteds14]

sorry but your wrong

clarify

dry system: one nozzle shooting just nitrous into the intake pipe
wet system: one nozzle shooting nitrous and fuel into the intake pipe.

Direct Port: a wet system but there is a nozzle for each intake runner. usually a 100shot or more

[Foxcolt]

Originally posted by boosteds14
sorry but your wrong

clarify

dry system: one nozzle shooting just nitrous into the intake pipe
wet system: one nozzle shooting nitrous and fuel into the intake pipe.

Direct Port: a wet system but there is a nozzle for each intake runner. usually a 100shot or more

Ahh I see.:)

[boosteds14]

Originally posted by SRKperformance
whoa! wait a second? Port and polishing is never a bad thing for a racing motor, or for any motor for that part. Port and polishing is simply a process of removing and remachining a small amount of the material on the intake runners and the head in order to make the head flow more efficiently, thus creating smoother air flow, and more hp. A 5 angle or 3 angle valvejob is also another good way to increase the efficiancy of the head. For example if you were to say do a 3 angle valve job, port and polish, racing cams, and valve springs to a ka24de head the hp increase would be in the range of 30whp. The redline would also be increase thanks to the upgraded valvetrain (springs and cams) and the airflow efficiency would be much greater, especially with a longer duration camshaft on the intake side. Port and polishing is also a very good idea if you are runing nitrous because nitrous will increase the hp in a sudden surge causing the engine to suddenly rev faster, inducing a greater vacum. If the air can flow more smoothly and faster in this vacum or under boost more hp is had and more air can flow in. You will also need more fuel for a nitrous system bigger than 50 shot on a ka (unless you like risking your motors piston stability) via a fuel pressure reg and a bigger fuel pump. More fuel, more air, the more hp you are goin to get from making a more efficient head. The head is the most important part of the motor in making more power, the more air that can move in faster and smoother the better the hp. The bottom end can only be modified for compression and can be made stronger. ON a ka24de a t3.t4 turbo wouldnt need much more than a 35 shot of dry nitrous just before the throttle body to help quicken the revs to spool up the turbo. A t3.t4 should spool up at about 4k rpms at the latest on a ka24de, you only need nitrous on the launch or for lower rpms to get the revs up fast enough to create enough exaust gases to get the turbo to spool up to hold at whatever boost are looking to hold at. A fogger system controller by a standalone computer would be a good way to go in that regard. If i were you i would try to see where my goals are first. Do you want turbo, or do you want a na motor that can handle a large amount of nitrous. You really dont need nitrous to spool up a t3/t4 on a ka24de or even an sr20det, you might need it for say a t78 ot t88 however when the turbo doesnt spool up till 6000rpm.


correct. the only reason my name was brought up in the beginning was because i had a Port and Polish that was too extreme for the street making the thickness of the port and head too thin. and with the car warming up and cooling down fast on the street, it caused the head to crack. no biggy but now i am running a stock head with cams

[SRKperformance]

thats what i thought also, i figured you went too extreme and it sacraficed the structural integrity of the head! damn thats alot of removal man!. Ive had enough fun with warped heads on my srs i know how it feels. Be conservative next time. I have a guy in lakewood ca who does my heads for me for cheap if you ever need one done, hes really cheap, really good.

[Jeff240sx]

Yea. I didn't bash a port and polish. It's cool. He said "race head" which is a very extreme P&P, which I warned against.
Sorry for not bieng more clear.
-JEff