View Full Version : Learning how to do body work
Hey there nissan junky bros' and sis' ;) I was wondering if any of you know a site that have tutorials on how to do body work jobs. I don't think I want to get a job in that domain but cars are a passion of mine and I really want to learn so that I can do stuff to my 240 in my spare time. I want to read about rust removal/restoration and how to do a good paint job.
Would the time/tools/knowledge cost more than having a pro do a good paint job on my car?
Any help, tips or opinions are welcomed!
Thanks in advance!
Keo :D
edit- Any good books would help too!
240racer
01-10-2003, 01:49 AM
I don't know of any sites on the web about body work specifically. However, the bondo cans have directions on them. That's what I have used in the past and it just takes patience and time. As far as trying to fix rusty spots on cars, it really sucks. I would say it is about as frustrating as it gets. If you have a small rusty area (like under every s13 hatch spoiler) it is almost impossible to fix so that it doesn't come back. You basically have to remove every little bit of rust and then do a very good job priming, making sure never to sand off the primer. If you have a big hole left after you remove the rust you have two options, one weld a new piece of metal in there to replace it or fill it with fiberglass/bondo. Both are hard and don't work great. welding works better, but you have to know how to weld. Other then filling holes bondo is pretty easy, just spread smooth, and sand smoother. then prime and sand and paint. There is a lot of sanding involved though, be prepared for that. Also, after spending tons of time putting bondo over rust and then painting it, if you don't get rid of all the rust, it just comes back, and makes your bondo flake off and look like crap. One thing I have done is just take a chisel or stiff blade and chip off all pain that is loose and spray the area with navel jelly or similar rust conversion stuff. follow directions on can. Use 3 or so layers. Then after it dries for a day (hopefully it doesn't rain) then you can prime and paint it. I did this with pretty good success last summer, however the finish is not smooth, it's bumpy rusty, but the color is correct and it's painted. The pain seemed to stay on pretty well. It only pealed and got discolored where there was still rust under paint that I didn't chip off. I use lots and lots of rust converter (prefer navel jelly in aresol can) and I think it helps. To get rust fised professionally is very espensive, not to mention the paint job itself once everything is fixed. You either have to have a lot of cash or a lot of time, that's why there are so many people that drive around with rusty cars.
As far as paint jobs go, you get what you pay for, usually not much more. It will take a while for you to get better then Maaco and they only charge $200 which is less then you can buy paint for. I would say if you get regular good paint it's like $500 (somebody in the industry give a real estimate please) just for the painting materials. That doesn't include the air compressor stuff you need and a painting room.
you can get 3M bondo at wal-mart, it seems fine, but I prefer bondo brand and the instructions are pretty good.
Thanks a million for your help ;) I`ll check that bondo stuff next time I go to Walmart or a hardware/paint store.
240racer
01-10-2003, 09:58 AM
I get my bondo at fleet farm, check your local farm or fleet store. Anywhere that carries both guns and tires is a good bet (wal-mart does that too, but they don't have bondo brand)
wherezmytofu
01-10-2003, 11:41 PM
if u see me online just send me an im...i am quite learned in the art of body work :)
Thanks for the reply ;) I'll try messaging you.
ibanezxguy
01-11-2003, 12:07 AM
im a bodyman also, Ibanezxguy on aol if ya need help or parts
Whoa I really appreciate that! I'll download that aol messanger first thing tomorrow :/ I have to hit the sack hehe but thanks for wanting to help me hehe.
Oh... a small question came to me tonight. Is the quality of the spray gun that is used a huge factor in the outcome of the paint job? What brand would you guys recommend? I found this site where you can order some : http://spraygundepot.com Dunno if its good though
SlowEXd
01-11-2003, 09:22 AM
For spray guns go with Binks or devilbiss. I used to have a cheapy (harbor freight) gun, and when I started working for ITW I got a devilbiss gravity feed, very nice equipment.
If you have never painted before find some stuff to practice on, don't make your car your first project. As said above painting takes alot of skill and practice. Espescially with todays high solids and metallic paints.
If you have a pro do it, expect to pay about 35-40 bucks an hour for prep and paint. Maaco will not do a good masking job for their cheap paint job. They will paint your moldings, antenna, tires, etc. Atleast they did on my camaro. That's why I started doing things myself.
As 240racer said $500 is about right just for good PPG paint/clear for a car.
There are some good books on body work and painting, just go to the library, just don't leave them in your shop area when painting. :p
DarkRaptor42
01-11-2003, 11:05 AM
its easy work, well it can be once you get the hang of it. I just got done molding in my body kit. Its a pain to do all that work to your car. All my work took me about 2 months but that cause of school and work too. I wasnt completely devoted to the project all the time, that and it got really cold and I couldnt shut the garage door cause of the fumes. But the car looks really nice now and Im getting it ready to be painted. If you need any more info email me.
Thanks alot! I hope your project car will turn out like you wanted! It seems so fun to do it on your own :) I'll start by buying a book or two tomorrow when I hit the library =) I'll probably look around for a good spray gun before this spring so that I can practice and be ready for my car this summer!
Apparition
01-11-2003, 12:04 PM
Is rust removal insanely difficult? Or is it only worth to get professionally done? I have some areas in my moonroof that need fixing, and some small spots popping up here and there.
240racer
01-12-2003, 12:52 AM
Originally posted by Apparition
Is rust removal insanely difficult? Or is it only worth to get professionally done? I have some areas in my moonroof that need fixing, and some small spots popping up here and there.
it's pretty tough, I am making a fiberglas trunk lid because I think it will be easier then trying to fix the rust on it. Plus it's a nice excuse right? Areas in the middle of a panel that haven't eaten through yet aren't too hard to fix, just sand the area super good, dent it in a little to make room for bondo and then spray it with navel jelly and then bondo and paint it. I've had good success with that situation. It's when the rust is coming through from the back that it will never go away.
240racer
01-12-2003, 12:53 AM
Originally posted by Apparition
Is rust removal insanely difficult? Or is it only worth to get professionally done? I have some areas in my moonroof that need fixing, and some small spots popping up here and there.
it's pretty tough, I am making a fiberglas trunk lid because I think it will be easier then trying to fix the rust on it. Plus it's a nice excuse right? Areas in the middle of a panel that haven't eaten through yet aren't too hard to fix, just sand the area super good, dent it in a little to make room for bondo and then spray it with navel jelly and then bondo and paint it. I've had good success with that situation. It's when the rust is coming through from the back that it will never go away.
DarkRaptor42
01-12-2003, 03:14 PM
how are you making a fiberglass trunk??
JerkFaceJason
01-12-2003, 07:48 PM
While we're on this, could someone get me an estimate for covering up a golf ball sized paint chip?
No rust or anything, just paint missing
thanks
240racer
01-13-2003, 12:09 PM
Originally posted by DarkRaptor42
how are you making a fiberglass trunk??
Laying fiberglas on the old trunk, after I fill the holes with bondo.
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