Ideas on a stripped bolt?

[neverrain]

I'm having a PITA time getting the bolt on the hard line that runs from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch dampener loose. I've tried wrench, pliers, liquid wrench, wd40 and the bolt is stripping itself now. Anyone got any ideas of how i can get this bolt loose? It's the only bolt I can't seem to get off the dampener.

[WangonwWarrior]

vice grips

[WangonwWarrior]

and if that does not work take the whole hard line and dampener out and lock the dampener down in a vice and get your vice grips out then go to town with some mad muscle:rawk:

[importdude]

vise grips and i think u need to flare/put a new fitting on

[iluvpandas4]

Heat it up then go at it with a vise grip. Then of course, replace the bolt.

[neverrain]

Yea I disconnected the hard line from the master cylinder and pulled out the entire dampener. Put it in a vice, put the vice grips on it hard and the damn thing still wont rotate.

If I just cut the hose off will a new clutch line come with bolts on both sides? Also, I have the bolt from the other line that is perfect. Of course the one I needed to keep is the one that is giving me issues.

[neverrain]

vice + vice grips worked eventually, +1 for reminding me.

[WangonwWarrior]

:kiss: hehe like i said go to town on that biotch lol

[g6civcx]

Anyone got any ideas of how i can get this bolt loose?

Use a flare nut wrench.

This is outside the scope of the question, but I recommend removing all stock hardline and flexline, including damper box. Install a braided line from the master straight to the slave and bypass the damper completely

[WangonwWarrior]

Use a flare nut wrench.

This is outside the scope of the question, but I recommend removing all stock hardline and flexline, including damper box. Install a braided line from the master straight to the slave and bypass the damper completely


+1 i got one off ebay for $40, have not bled it yet though but i bet it will be firm :)

[neverrain]

Use a flare nut wrench.

This is outside the scope of the question, but I recommend removing all stock hardline and flexline, including damper box. Install a braided line from the master straight to the slave and bypass the damper completely

Yea I wanted to do this. This was actually my first time replacing anything related to the clutch so I read the hell out of everything I could find. I ended up removing the dampener, replacing the master and slave, and bleeding the system. This was a first for all of those. Now that I know what I'm doing (for the most part) I can go back in and replace the stock line with the braided one. The reason I didn't replace it today was because my master blew last night while I was at work and I had to take the day off to fix it. This car is a my DD and my only one.

Regardless, thanks for the help guys. I took the car out and the clutch feels nice and stiff now, though I'm not sure that's the result from removing the dampener or not.

EDIT - Also, I'm not sure the flare nut wrench would have worked unless you are thinking of one that might clamp down on the bolt. The bolt is literally so stripped now its round. I ended up having to use the vice grips to tighten it, which is another reason I need to grab the braided line, to replace that screw/bolt piece.

[g6civcx]

damper = something that dampens, i.e. reduce the effect

dampener = something that makes it damp, i.e. wet

Who knows why.

You should have started with a flare nut wrench. Once the bolt is rounded the flare nut wrench won't work.

[projectRDM]

A new OE hardline is less than $14 at the dealer.

And FYI, the part you damaged is called a nut, not a bolt. I skimmed this over before because your post made no sense, there are no bolts fitted to a hardline anywhere.