Z U L8R
08-20-2008, 09:38 AM
if you're running an autometer coolant temperature guage and are trying to figure out how to install it, i've successfully done it on many rb's
basically your autometer coolant guage comes with a "bushing" that the 1/8 npt autometer coolant sender will screw into.
take that threaded "bushing" and grind the threads off the outside until it's smooth. then put it in a vise and use a 12mm x 1.5 dye ( for rb ) to create your outer thread. you might wanna take a couple bites, then back it off, then take a couple more bites, then back it off, cause if it's too hard to create the threads then you need to take off a little more material or you'll break the brass bushing trying to spin the dye on.
then use some teflon GOO (which you can find in the plumbing section of home depot) and apply some to the threads of the sender and the threads of your new bushing. screw the sender into the bushing, screw the bushing/sender into your manifold's stock sender location and wire the rest of your guage up as the instructions tell you
*NOTE
sr20/ka coolant temp sending unit is a different thread pitch, so you will do the same as i've stated above but use a 12MM X 1.25 dye.
the coolant sending unit's get supplied voltage from your guage, whether stock or aftermarket. the outside of the sending unit grounds itself to your intake manifold (which is grounded) via the threads. that's why i say to use teflon goo instead of teflon tape, because sometimes the teflon tape doesn't let the side of the sender make a good connection with the intake manifold. as your coolant temperature rises, there's less resistance between the power being supplied to the top of the sender and your ground. thus the coolant temperature needle will go to the warmer side as the car heats up. you can check to see if your coolant guage works by grounding out the signal wire. if you touch it to ground with the key on (guages on) it should peg to HOT.
good luck
Dave @ Lethal Injection Motorsports
770-343-9969
basically your autometer coolant guage comes with a "bushing" that the 1/8 npt autometer coolant sender will screw into.
take that threaded "bushing" and grind the threads off the outside until it's smooth. then put it in a vise and use a 12mm x 1.5 dye ( for rb ) to create your outer thread. you might wanna take a couple bites, then back it off, then take a couple more bites, then back it off, cause if it's too hard to create the threads then you need to take off a little more material or you'll break the brass bushing trying to spin the dye on.
then use some teflon GOO (which you can find in the plumbing section of home depot) and apply some to the threads of the sender and the threads of your new bushing. screw the sender into the bushing, screw the bushing/sender into your manifold's stock sender location and wire the rest of your guage up as the instructions tell you
*NOTE
sr20/ka coolant temp sending unit is a different thread pitch, so you will do the same as i've stated above but use a 12MM X 1.25 dye.
the coolant sending unit's get supplied voltage from your guage, whether stock or aftermarket. the outside of the sending unit grounds itself to your intake manifold (which is grounded) via the threads. that's why i say to use teflon goo instead of teflon tape, because sometimes the teflon tape doesn't let the side of the sender make a good connection with the intake manifold. as your coolant temperature rises, there's less resistance between the power being supplied to the top of the sender and your ground. thus the coolant temperature needle will go to the warmer side as the car heats up. you can check to see if your coolant guage works by grounding out the signal wire. if you touch it to ground with the key on (guages on) it should peg to HOT.
good luck
Dave @ Lethal Injection Motorsports
770-343-9969