egr questions...

[twastheglow]

I have some questions regarding the egr system. When I turbo'd my car last weekend, I simply hacked off the egr pipe that run to the stock exhaust manifold until I get my JGSTools egr pipe cap (which I've ordered, just haven't recieved yet). I've done the best job I can sealing that pipe up, but I'm pretty confident it still allows air in. I have 2 separate distinct questions...

1) What do the 4 vacuum lines that run a long the top of the stock radiator go to? I believe they have something to do with the egr system, but not sure. For the time being, I've plugged them. Is that an ok fix for now?

2) I've tried running my car and am having problems with the car REEKING of gas within seconds of starting it. After it idles for a couple seconds, it dies. After that it doesn't want to start, and if it does, it'll just die unless I keep my foot on the gas a little. I'm wondering if my egr pipe is pulling in fresh air instead of exhaust and the stock o2 sensor is reading that the car needs more fuel thus flooding the motor. My plugs foul out and I have no injector/fuel rail leak as I've tested that. I've tested my MAF, ecu, timing, everything's in check. The only thing that isn't is my egr which is going to be properly capped soon.

What do you guys think? Does the egr need vacuum to close? Since I've plugged the vacuum coming off of it, does it stay open, pulling fresh air in and asking for more fuel...which it doesn't need? I don't know what else to think.

And for reference, I have an EFI Specialist ecu tuned to my z32 MAF, and 550cc STi injectors.

Please help me out...I'm pulling my hair out here. I've been trying to figure out the problem for hours every night when I get out of work. I just want to drive the damn thing!
*mike*

[s14unimog]

what motor what chassis?

I think the first question's answer is the charcoal canister for the gas tank breather.

I think the second one has to do with your half ass EGR delete (no offense). I'm guessing that you are talking about KA-T b/c you say that you are turbo'ing your car.

This is what I did on my KA-T when I deleted that system.

removal of system and plugged vacuum lines on manifold.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/KA-Tprogressdaytwo006.jpg

made a block of plate, and left the small steal casting b/c I'm lazy and thats a bitch to get out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/KA-Tprogressdaytwo008.jpg

[twastheglow]

what motor what chassis?

I think the first question's answer is the charcoal canister for the gas tank breather.

I think the second one has to do with your half ass EGR delete (no offense). I'm guessing that you are talking about KA-T b/c you say that you are turbo'ing your car.

This is what I did on my KA-T when I deleted that system.

removal of system and plugged vacuum lines on manifold.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/KA-Tprogressdaytwo006.jpg

made a block of plate, and left the small steal casting b/c I'm lazy and thats a bitch to get out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/KA-Tprogressdaytwo008.jpg

'93 S13 with KA24DE-T

Ok, so for the 1st question, is it ok that I have those sealed up?

No offense taken. lol I agree. I bought the egr cap from JGSTools to take care of that problem (for now). I just need to know if my "half ass egr delete" lol is causing my car to run SUPER rich and want to die instantly. I'm assuming between plugging those lines and using that egr cap, that will fix my idle issue and allow the car to run much smoother. However, I still don't know why my car fumagates the neighborhood with the smell of fuel when it idles...unless it has to do with the egr.

If the egr is supposed to be routing exhaust to mix with the intake air, and nothing but fresh air is mixing with the intake air, I would assume the car would run lean. Then when the stock o2 sensor reads that, it hits the ecu up for more fuel which in turn makes it run way too rich. Or am I way off?
*mike*

[s14unimog]

you want to trace those hoses back across the core support and see if they go to a hard line near the fuel filter, if so leave those open to atmosphere. DO NOT plug the breather for your gas tank. either way, trace all "unhooked" vacuum lines to their sources. If any go back to the manifold and are not hooked to anything you have leaks, so fix that anyways.

Saying there is a fuel smell is a little broad, my SR smells like fuel but thats b/c its straight pipe and tuned for more fuel.

can you identify where the smell is coming from. Is the car running rich or is there some sort of fuel leak/smell in the engine bay?

[twastheglow]

you want to trace those hoses back across the core support and see if they go to a hard line near the fuel filter, if so leave those open to atmosphere. DO NOT plug the breather for your gas tank. either way, trace all "unhooked" vacuum lines to their sources. If any go back to the manifold and are not hooked to anything you have leaks, so fix that anyways.

Saying there is a fuel smell is a little broad, my SR smells like fuel but thats b/c its straight pipe and tuned for more fuel.

can you identify where the smell is coming from. Is the car running rich or is there some sort of fuel leak/smell in the engine bay?

Well, I have the 4 that come up from the throttle body plugged (that may not be correct to do), I have a giant one that hooked to the bottom of the stock air intake next to the radiator directly in front of the throttle body. That's wide open. I'm not sure what it is or where it goes. Where is the breather for the gas tank? I'll make sure to not have that plugged.

I can't identify for sure where the smell is coming from. It's just all over. If I had to guess I would say the engine itself. Like I said previously, the plugs are getting fouled out because too much fuel is being fed to the cylinders but I can't figure out why. That's why I had all those questions about the egr. I must be running SUPER rich, but my wideband reads very, very lean. On my UEGO it won't even give a digital readout. I have to check for exhaust leaks though.
*mike*

[Om1kron]

I don't have a turbo ka but I am throwing an code 85 which is the Evap purge canister control valve, and my car reeks of gasoline like I grabbed a cantine full of it and poured it under my car. It just emits pure gas vapor when idling and is running in open loop mode, it slightly did this when I first bought it but it has since gotten extremely worse.

[twastheglow]

Not to sound too noobish...but...what does that valve do? Where is it located? And did you fix your problem yet?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

I wonder if that's the problem I'm having. Then it just idles like shit because I haven't taken care of the egr yet. Maybe it's not running rich like I think. It just seems that way because it smells that way.
*mike*

[Om1kron]

www.ka-t.org :: View topic - Important heads-up for S14 owners! (http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36566&sid=a057c591adb13ac0741092a6d7836273)

[twastheglow]

^ But my car is an S13. Plus, mine smells from the motor area...not the gas tank.
*mike*

[twastheglow]

I read through some of those links you sent me. That shit just doesn't end!!! Isn't there a way to just block the egr without removing everything else and still have the engine run properly?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

From what I've read, that "evap purge canister" is the charcoal canister. Did I maybe not plug something that I was supposed to that went to that canister? Is that why I smell gas constantly? Anyone?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

you want to trace those hoses back across the core support and see if they go to a hard line near the fuel filter, if so leave those open to atmosphere. DO NOT plug the breather for your gas tank. either way, trace all "unhooked" vacuum lines to their sources. If any go back to the manifold and are not hooked to anything you have leaks, so fix that anyways.

Saying there is a fuel smell is a little broad, my SR smells like fuel but thats b/c its straight pipe and tuned for more fuel.

can you identify where the smell is coming from. Is the car running rich or is there some sort of fuel leak/smell in the engine bay?


Is there a hose that goes to a hard line next to the fuel filter? Is that the breather for my gas tank? Is there 1 or 2? That still leaves the other 3. Does anyone know where they go or what I should do with them?
*mike*

[Om1kron]

do you have an fsm for your car, I highly suggest downloading a pdf of it and highlighting all of those lines.

[twastheglow]

do you have an fsm for your car, I highly suggest downloading a pdf of it and highlighting all of those lines.

I do actually. But I'm not home so I was just trying to get some answers from some people on here who have actually worked first hand with these lines.
*mike*

[Om1kron]

yeah best bet is just to go through with the book and check any and everything, get it up on stands and find out where it's dumping all of this stuff or take it to a dealership and have them hook it up to a monitor. should be able to pinpoint why it's dumping fumes.

[twastheglow]

yeah best bet is just to go through with the book and check any and everything, get it up on stands and find out where it's dumping all of this stuff or take it to a dealership and have them hook it up to a monitor. should be able to pinpoint why it's dumping fumes.

Well there should be a very limited number of places gas fumes could be coming from. I would assume it was something to do with the charcoal canister/evap purge canister. I'm just not familiar enough with things. The FSM that I have is on my computer and I don't remember seeing a diagram of all these parts intertwined with each other. Is there one in there? Or can anyone answer my question? Even with pics perhaps?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

I guess it boils down to this...

1) If I block off the egr pipe, what vacuum lines do I need to seal and with what lines do I need to keep open to the atmosphere? From what I understand so far, there is a vacuum line that goes to a hard line next to the fuel filter that needs to stay open because it's the gas tank breather. Correct so far?

2) What do I do with the 4 vacuum lines that come from underneath the throttle body (I believe 1 of them goes to a hardline mentioned in point #1, correct?)?

3) There is a very large hose that connects to the bottom of the plastic stock intake directly to the left of the radiator. What is it and what am supposed to do with it? Right now it's just wide open.

3) There are 2 lines that went into the charcoal canister. I have them both plugged (although not well). What do they go to and are they supposed to be sealed as well? If so, I'll re-plug those much better.

4) Is there a line I'm missing that should be plugged that gas fumes may be coming out of hence where the smell of gas is just pouring out of?

I really appreciate your guys's help. I just want to get my damn car back up and running. :(:(:( Watching her just sit there makes me sad inside and kills my soul. You guys are the key to me getting her rolling again.
*mike*

[twastheglow]

If you need anymore information or picstures or anything, let me know!
*mike*

[iluvpandas4]

for the gas problem, check out your fuel filter and the hoses connected to it. make sure the hoses aren't cracked and if you don't remember ever changing out your fuel filter, change it. my car had the same problem but a little less severe, i just changed out the fuel filter and everything was good. first day driving with the fuel filter sucked but after that no problems, a steady idle and no smell of gas. it could be a long shot but doesn't hurt to check.

[twastheglow]

Thanks for the reply. I'll definately check it out as I'm open to ANY suggestions. I did replace the fuel filter when I 1st bought the car in 2005, but who knows. I'll take a look tomorrow and see what kind of shape it's in.
*mike*

[twastheglow]

The only thing about that is I'm not actually leaking any fuel. There isn't a puddle of fluid under my car. Nor is there any dripping of anything either. But, like I said, I'll take a look nonetheless. Thanks.
*mike*

[s14unimog]

some times the leaks are so small that they evaporate before getting to the ground, make sure your fuel lines are not dry rotted.


Like I said, if you are unsure of what they do and they are connected to the manifold its better to have them plugged than open to atmosphere, b/c thats a boost leak.

Pics of these hoses would help.

[twastheglow]

Someone mentioned that the gas smell is from the removal of the charcoal canister. Did I not do what I was supposed to with the lines going to it? What did you guys do? Is the charcoal canister a possibility?
*mike*

[projectRDM]

Someone mentioned that the gas smell is from the removal of the charcoal canister. Did I not do what I was supposed to with the lines going to it? What did you guys do? Is the charcoal canister a possibility?
*mike*

There's two vacuum lines to the manifold, those must be capped or the engine will have a vacuum leak. Remove and cap/plug.
The remaining line that runs across the firewall to the passenger frame rail is the fuel tank vent. Leave it open.

Done. You're making things complicated by over thinking it.

[twastheglow]

There's two vacuum lines to the manifold, those must be capped or the engine will have a vacuum leak. Remove and cap/plug.
The remaining line that runs across the firewall to the passenger frame rail is the fuel tank vent. Leave it open.

Done. You're making things complicated by over thinking it.

You're right, I am making it more complicated. *takes a deep breath* I'm just having on going problems that I can't figure out and it's really frustrating me. Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure I did all this already, but I'll check it again.
*mike*

[twastheglow]

If that wasn't done properly, would the engine bay reek of gas during idle?
*mike*

[s14unimog]

how could have not done it properly, do what Russ said. Cap the two going to the intake manifold and leave the other one to atmosphere

[twastheglow]

how could have not done it properly, do what Russ said. Cap the two going to the intake manifold and leave the other one to atmosphere

The reason I say that is because I'm 99% sure I DID do it properly, but I have a gas smell that cannot be explained. So I was asking.
*mike*

[Om1kron]

The reason I say that is because I'm 99% sure I DID do it properly, but I have a gas smell that cannot be explained. So I was asking.
*mike*

www.ka-t.org :: View topic - Kirk build -IT RUNS!!!- DSM ecu, JGS mani, T3/T4, etc. (http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34041)

scrooooooll down...

[twastheglow]

Ok. So I saw everything that he removed. But he also had his motor out for all that. I, unfortunately, don't have that luxury. I'm just looking to cap the egr (correctly) and get the car running with the rest of the emissions intact I guess. At some point however, I wouldn't mind pulling off the intake manifold and cleaning it all up. Maybe sometime over winter. But until then, I just want to drive my car. :( That's why I'm trying to get the rest of this worked out. But it just seems that I'm not as proficient as a lot of you. That's why I'm asking for help. Unfortunately, again, I don't have anyone or any shops local that can help me troubleshoot and answer the questions that I have.
*mike*

[techn9ne]

there is a vacuum hose routing diagram under the hood :)

(if your car still has the stock hood and hasn't been in a wreck)

[twastheglow]

there is a vacuum hose routing diagram under the hood :)

(if your car still has the stock hood and hasn't been in a wreck)

It has an S13 Silvia hood. So that's a no go. I just want to get my damn car running again.

Can you tell me what the hose next to the radiator goes to and what I should do with it?
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/twastheglow/turboinstall001.jpg
*mike*

[projectRDM]

Secondary resonator for the intake, mounts to the shroud. You can leave it or remove it, it's screwed to the shroud at either end.

[projectRDM]

The reason I say that is because I'm 99% sure I DID do it properly, but I have a gas smell that cannot be explained. So I was asking.
*mike*

There should be no gas smell unless the tank has been pressurized under boost, damaging the check valve on the tank. There's no telling how it was hooked up originally. The check valve is above the tank, mounted to the chassis. You'll have to drop the tank to access it.

If the smell is strong you should be able to tell where it's coming from, down by the frame rail.

[twastheglow]

Secondary resonator for the intake, mounts to the shroud. You can leave it or remove it, it's screwed to the shroud at either end.

Thanks. Ok, I don't have to worry about that one. And the 4 vacuum lines coming from underneath the throttle body, they're supposed to be capped too right? Then the lines going to the charcoal canister from the manifold (leaving the line that goes to the hardline on the firewall open), also capped, correct? If that's the case...after I properly seal my egr with the JGS cap, all my vacuum lines should be taken care of. BUT THAT DAMN GAS SMELL...!!!
*mike*

[twastheglow]

There should be no gas smell unless the tank has been pressurized under boost, damaging the check valve on the tank. There's no telling how it was hooked up originally. The check valve is above the tank, mounted to the chassis. You'll have to drop the tank to access it.

If the smell is strong you should be able to tell where it's coming from, down by the frame rail.

I'm 99% sure the gas smell is coming from the engine bay. What does that tell you?
*mike*

[Om1kron]

I'm 99% sure the gas smell is coming from the engine bay. What does that tell you?
*mike*

get some jackstands, put your car on them and get under it. Dont assume until you have tested, you're doing chair mechanic work on your car assuming you've diagnosed a problem and it is seemingly frustrating to offer you advice to have you shoot it down with what you think it is but yet you haven't tried putting anything back in place to see if that fixed the issue much less have you done anything but provide an excuse as to why it still reeks of gas.

This is why my car reeks of gas, because I've been researching every possibility before putting it up on jacks and tearing it apart. Which pretty much is going to be my next move after I take it to a nissan dealer to look at.

[twastheglow]

get some jackstands, put your car on them and get under it. Dont assume until you have tested, you're doing chair mechanic work on your car assuming you've diagnosed a problem and it is seemingly frustrating to offer you advice to have you shoot it down with what you think it is but yet you haven't tried putting anything back in place to see if that fixed the issue much less have you done anything but provide an excuse as to why it still reeks of gas.

This is why my car reeks of gas, because I've been researching every possibility before putting it up on jacks and tearing it apart. Which pretty much is going to be my next move after I take it to a nissan dealer to look at.


I REALLY appreciate everyone's help, ideas, and suggestions, but please understand that everyday that I get out of work, I go home and work on the car until it's too dark out. Then I come into work the next day and try to get more suggestions to try when I get home.

So far I have checked the plugs, the injectors, the fuel rail for leaks, the MAF, the timing, the ecu for visual signs that the chip for the tune came loose, my fuel filter, etc. Tonight I'm going to check all the vacuum lines that I had plugged and make sure they're plugged correctly. I also have to UNplug the line that goes to the firewall from where the canister was.

I just like to get as many possibilities through out the day so I have something to work on when I get home. I've just run out of my own ideas.

PS...I truly apologize if I've frustrated you. I didn't mean to. I'm greatful for everyone's help.
*mike*

[Om1kron]

no problem man, good luck.

[CityHunt3R]

well i have EGR valve code 32 and 34 cant figure it out i press up against my egr valve and engine stumbles until it dies... sometimes it dies somtimes it doesnt... how do u know if the egr is good or bad or if its the solenoid... i serached around everyone has some what of a diferent problem. when i floor my caron freeway i smell ehaust fumes or some fumes in my car.... duno what it is anyone elese have this issue? also i tried serahcing how to remove EGR valve.. man im gona have to do a write up myself .. ,, ahhahaah once i figure it out

[techn9ne]

http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34869956/34869960/42028504/56476501/42130916

TICAL.

[twastheglow]

Ok...I've seen/used that diagram. The 4 lines going across the front have all been capped. Good...bad? The egr pipe (which this does not show) is also being capped (it isn't yet as I'm waiting for the cap from JGS, it'll be here Tuesday). And the charcoal canister and that square black box thing (I don't know what it is) next to the canister have also been removed. Is that all correct?
*mike*

[techn9ne]

Ok...I've seen/used that diagram. The 4 lines going across the front have all been capped. Good...bad? The egr pipe (which this does not show) is also being capped (it isn't yet as I'm waiting for the cap from JGS, it'll be here Tuesday). And the charcoal canister and that square black box thing (I don't know what it is) next to the canister have also been removed. Is that all correct?
*mike*


if you disconnected the canister, plug the purge and vacuum lines going to it. the hose that goes from the tank to the canister needs to be vented, or your tank may build up enough pressure to either burst or crack. im assuming the black box thing is the resonator for the stock intake. hopefully this next pic helps.

http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP2R0H%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34857029/34857699/56492547/56197987/56676647/42130913

[twastheglow]

^ That black box thing is the box the PAIR solenoid valve and PAIR valve are hooked to. It's directly in front of the BMC and to the left of the power steering resevoir. I yanked that right the fuck out too. What's the deal with that?
*mike*

[techn9ne]

^ That black box thing is the box the PAIR solenoid valve and PAIR valve are hooked to. It's directly in front of the BMC and to the left of the power steering resevoir. I yanked that right the fuck out too. What's the deal with that?
*mike*

copypasta time.

SYSTEM PURPOSE

The Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (PAIR) System is designed to send secondary air to the exhaust manifold to promote afterburning of the exhaust gases, reducing CO and HC. The exhaust pressure in the manifold pulsates in response to the opening and closing of the exhaust valves and decreases periodically below atmospheric pressure creating a vacuum effect.

Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (PAIR/AIV) Input/Output Signals http://zilvia.net/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34857029/34857699/56492557/14476985/56683152/42131343

CIRCUIT OPERATION
When the ECM (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34857029/34857030/101367125) senses the proper conditions suitable for PAIR operation, via the water temperature sensor, idle switch and crank angle sensor it supplies the ground circuit to the PAIRC solenoid allowing the system to operate.

Fig. 6 AIV/PAIR Valve http://zilvia.net/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP1R0H%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34857029/34857699/56492557/14476985/56683152/42318401

The vacuum being transmitted to the PAIR Valve acts upon a diaphragm opening the valve port allowing the system to operate. The exhaust flow then draws filtered air into the the manifold through the piping and PAIR Valve promoting afterburning of the unburned exhaust gasses. A set of reed valves are mounted in the PAIR Valve to prevent exhaust gas from being sent back into the unit when the exhaust pressure exceeds atmospheric pressure.

Vacuum Control Solenoid http://zilvia.net/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34857029/34857699/56492557/14476985/56683152/41858520

PULSED SECONDARY AIR INJECTION (PAIRC) CONTROL SOLENOID
The ECM (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34857029/34857030/101367125) supplies the ground circuit to the PAIRC solenoid. When activated, it redirects vacuum from the source and vent ports to the source and valve ports, applying vacuum to the PAIR.

PAIR/AIV Solenoid Operation http://zilvia.net/alldata/PRO%7EV95221603%7EC10024%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/41746052/56620589/56620812/56620813/34853741/34857029/34857699/56492557/14476985/56683152/41858683

PAIR OPERATION CHART

[twastheglow]

So is there a problem that I no longer have this?
*mike*

[techn9ne]

well i have EGR valve code 32 and 34 cant figure it out i press up against my egr valve and engine stumbles until it dies... sometimes it dies somtimes it doesnt... how do u know if the egr is good or bad or if its the solenoid... i serached around everyone has some what of a diferent problem. when i floor my caron freeway i smell ehaust fumes or some fumes in my car.... duno what it is anyone elese have this issue? also i tried serahcing how to remove EGR valve.. man im gona have to do a write up myself .. ,, ahhahaah once i figure it out

egr valve is working properly when it makes your car die/stumble at idle when its open.

[twastheglow]

egr valve is working properly when it makes your car die/stumble at idle when its open.

Then that's clearly why I have that exact problem. I totally half-assed closing that pipe off until I get this damn cap in from JGSTools. That must be the root of my freaking issue. I sure as hell hope capping that off alleviates my car of dying when idling and generally running like shit.

What would happen if you tried driving with that egr pipe not attached to the exhausts manifold?
*mike*

[techn9ne]

So is there a problem that I no longer have this?
*mike*


not really. its just emissions garbage. just make sure the hole in the exhaust that the fresh air supposed to be getting sucked into is blocked, or its gonna give the 02 sensor a false lean, which in turn adds more fuel when you dont need it, and makes you run rich.

[twastheglow]

Where did it connect to the exhaust? I don't remember. Was it the exhaust manifold? If so, that's long gone too. Swapped it out for a turbo manifold. Where would I have to block off?

Thanks so much man. I think you're seriously answering all my questions.
*mike*

[techn9ne]

Then that's clearly why I have that exact problem. I totally half-assed closing that pipe off until I get this damn cap in from JGSTools. That must be the root of my freaking issue. I sure as hell hope capping that off alleviates my car of dying when idling and generally running like shit.

What would happen if you tried driving with that egr pipe not attached to the exhausts manifold?
*mike*

any big exhaust leak before the 02 sensor is going to make your ecu dump more fuel into the cylinder to compensate for the false lean condition.

[twastheglow]

And the egr pipe being open would be considered an exhaust leak per say?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

So maybe just sealing up the egr properly might help keep my car from running as rich as it is?
*mike*

[techn9ne]

Where did it connect to the exhaust? I don't remember. Was it the exhaust manifold? If so, that's long gone too. Swapped it out for a turbo manifold. Where would I have to block off?

Thanks so much man. I think you're seriously answering all my questions.
*mike*

oh yeah, i forgot you turbo'd ur car. yeah, since you have a completely different manifold, im not sure you even have a port for the egr or pair valve. if you do, just block em.

[techn9ne]

And the egr pipe being open would be considered an exhaust leak per say?
*mike*

So maybe just sealing up the egr properly might help keep my car from running as rich as it is?
*mike*

is the egr pipe sealed on the intake side or on the exhaust side? and which side (if any) is it connected to

[twastheglow]

oh yeah, i forgot you turbo'd ur car. yeah, since you have a completely different manifold, im not sure you even have a port for the egr or pair valve. if you do, just block em.

If that's where it connected, then I definately do not have a place for them. Cool. So I guess I have that part taken care of correctly.
*mike*

[twastheglow]

is the egr pipe sealed on the intake side or on the exhaust side? and which side (if any) is it connected to

I took it off the exhaust manifold. It's still attached to the egr valve on the intake manifold. I tried some super ghetto diy shit to seal the egr pipe just for now to move the car and stuff. I have since then ordered a cap for the egr valve body where the egr pipe threads on. I think the heat from the exhaust probably opened up the egr pipe pretty decent so it's no longer sealed. (not that it ever was very well)
*mike*

[techn9ne]

I took it off the exhaust manifold. It's still attached to the egr valve on the intake manifold. I tried some super ghetto diy shit to seal the egr pipe just for now to move the car and stuff. I have since then ordered a cap for the egr valve body where the egr pipe threads on. I think the heat from the exhaust probably opened up the egr pipe pretty decent so it's no longer sealed. (not that it ever was very well)
*mike*

so the new manifold does not have a place for the egr pipe to go into right?

[twastheglow]

Correct. So I ordered this cap to remedy that. JGS Precision Turbo (http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html) (click on 240sx products, it's almost at the bottom of the page)

Would not having it attached to the intake manifold cause the stumbling and dying at idle you were talking about?
*mike*

[techn9ne]

Correct. So I ordered this cap to remedy that. JGS Precision Turbo (http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html) (click on 240sx products, it's almost at the bottom of the page)

Would not having it attached to the intake manifold cause the stumbling and dying at idle you were talking about?
*mike*

no. since its not hooked up to exhaust gas anymore, the egr should not be making your car stumble at idle, even if you have it open. if it is disconnected at the exhaust side, and connected to the intake manifold, and the egr valve is open, then it would be a boost leak on the intake side under pressure. however, when your intake manifold is under vacuum instead of pressure, then an open egr valve would be letting in un metered air in, creating a lean condition, and your ecu would add fuel.

[twastheglow]

So...knowing how it's currently hooked up...does that seem like my problem? Would a boost leak like that cause me these problems @ idle etc.?
*mike*

[techn9ne]

So...knowing how it's currently hooked up...does that seem like my problem? Would a boost leak like that cause me these problems @ idle etc.?
*mike*

honestly, im not sure. its not like im looking at the car. but your car should be under vacuum at idle, not boost.

[twastheglow]

honestly, im not sure. its not like im looking at the car. but your car should be under vacuum at idle, not boost.

Then what in the world would cause my car to just die after idling for a couple minutes. It's not even like the idling is labored. It seems like it idles fine, then all the sudden it dies and doesn't want to start again. Then once I get it started I have to keep a foot on the gas or it wants to die. And it sounds like shit when I'm revving it.

I was really hoping capping the egr pipe was going to solve all those problems. Now after talking to you, I'm wondering if it's even going to!
*mike*

[twastheglow]

So I just got in from trying to do a boost leak check. We ran into some other issues and never got around to completing it. I did however find (and I'm quite embarassed to say this) that the intake piping was very loose where it couples to the actual turbo. Like loose enough that I could just pull it off. Thinking back, it must have happened when I went to clean the MAF with cleaner. I STUPIDLY never tighten the clamps back up. And it was right after that that I tried driving my car home where I ran into all kind of problems. So now my question is this...what happens (symptoms) when a car is pulling more air in than what was metered by the MAF? Because that clearly must have been an issue. Aside from that, why would it want to over heat over and over on the way home? It ran like 10 lbs. of shit in a 6 lbs. bag.
*mike*

[techn9ne]

So I just got in from trying to do a boost leak check. We ran into some other issues and never got around to completing it. I did however find (and I'm quite embarassed to say this) that the intake piping was very loose where it couples to the actual turbo. Like loose enough that I could just pull it off. Thinking back, it must have happened when I went to clean the MAF with cleaner. I STUPIDLY never tighten the clamps back up. And it was right after that that I tried driving my car home where I ran into all kind of problems. So now my question is this...what happens (symptoms) when a car is pulling more air in than what was metered by the MAF? Because that clearly must have been an issue. Aside from that, why would it want to over heat over and over on the way home? It ran like 10 lbs. of shit in a 6 lbs. bag.
*mike*

unmetered air makes your car run lean. the ecu will try and compensate by dumping in more fuel and adjusting the idle air control.