how to check a Z32 MAF

[twastheglow]

Can someone please explain to me in detail how to check is a Z32 MAF is working correctly? I'm having KA-T issues since the install and I think I've narrowed it down to the MAF. I know it's wired correctly, I'm just not even sure the thing works since I bought it used. So if there's a way I can check it, that would be awesome. That way I can figure out if that's my problem or not. Unfortunately there is no one in my area with one, so I can't just simply swap one out. Thanks guys.
*mike*

[Mikey88]

wont start? do you have something to tell the computer your running the maf like a safc or sumthin?

[twastheglow]

It's a lot more involved than not starting. LOL I have an EFI Specialist ecu tuned to Z32 MAF & 550cc injectors.

To make a long story short, my car will start after sitting and will run for about a minute then it will die. Then it's very difficult getting it started again and I have to keep a a foot on the gas. If I don't it'll die right after it starts. 2 of my plugs were fouled out and I've already checked the fuel rail and none of my injectors are leaking (finally as I've had to fix 2 in the last couple days). I checked the fuel rail by pulling it and turning the key to the "on" position to prime the system...no fuel leak. The timing is correct as I've never touched the distributor during the install and confirmed that it's correct with a timing light. I checked the ecu to make sure the cip was securely fastened and it wasn't. LOL I corrected that and the problem has still not changed. The car runs VERY VERY rich. I can smell the fuel as soon as the car starts. For some reason unbenounced to me, my UEGO won't even give a digital AFR reading. It just shows the AFR off the chart as being so lean. I may have a couple vacuum leaks but I'm not sure if that would give me the problems I'm having. And I'm waiting on the EGR cap that JGS sells to properly cap off my EGR pipe. The only other thing I'm not sure of, is what do I do with the 4 vacuum linees that run along the top of the radiator?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

I called my local Nissan dealership (and these guys are not the brightest) and they said it should read 1.3 volts @ idle. Is that correct? So as long as it reads 1.3 volts, the MAF is good...end of story? Or is there more to it than that?
*mike*

[doug86]

i'd like to know how to check z32 maf as well, any input from people who know?

[twastheglow]

I'm sitting here at work going through everything in my head as to what the problem could possibly be. What happens if you don't run that 4th MAF wire to the chasis as ground? I did run it, but I'm pretty confident the grounding connection is horrible. Would there be a difference if I "properly" ground the 4th wire?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

And also, what's the deal with the 4 vacuum lines that run across the radiator? I just capped them off for now. Is that cool?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

Anyone? I'm here stuck @ work for another 3+ hours and I would love to have some things that I can work on when I get home.
*mike*

[Rnz520]

well what I would do is unplug the maf and start it and see how it idles.

[twastheglow]

well what I would do is unplug the maf and start it and see how it idles.

Ok. And what should I expect? What would that tell me? If it runs...if it doesn't?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

I checked my MAF last night. It's getting 12v, 1.4v @ idle and it goes up as I give it gas. I'm assuming that MAF is still good. Did I do it correctly?

What happens if the polarity on an injector accidentally gets switched? The only thing left that I can think of is that maybe 2 of the injector clips were wired wrong. Would that make the injector give way too much gas...like WOT conditions? Any thoughts?
*mike*

[doug86]

pull back the rubber protector from the MAF plug, turn ignition switch on, start engine and warm it up sufficiently, check voltage between terminal B and ground (ignition switch on approximately 0.8V, car running and sufficiently warm 0.8-1.5V) If not good remove MAF and check hot wire for damage or dust.

Thats straight out of the Z32 FSM. I would assume because you're at 1.4v your MAF is good.

[twastheglow]

pull back the rubber protector from the MAF plug, turn ignition switch on, start engine and warm it up sufficiently, check voltage between terminal B and ground (ignition switch on approximately 0.8V, car running and sufficiently warm 0.8-1.5V) If not good remove MAF and check hot wire for damage or dust.

Thats straight out of the Z32 FSM. I would assume because you're at 1.4v your MAF is good.

Thanks for your response. Unfortunately, I agree. I almost wish it was bad so I could just replace and be done with my problems.

Side note...if the egr pipe coming from the stock exhaust manifold wasn't correctly/fully capped off, would the car run rich? If the egr pipe was accidentally pulling in some fresh air, would the car run super rich and want to die? I'm just trying to bounce any idea I get off you guys to figure out what the deal is with my car. Since I don't have an injector leak, MAF is good, ecu chips are in place, o2 sensors are good, timing is correct, egr is NOT sealed correctly until I get my egr pipe cap in the mail from JGS. Would that cause my problem?
*mike*

[twastheglow]

I guess I'll start a new thread since this is no longer about the original topic...
*mike*