Can I retrofit S15 headlights with LHD projectors?

[The Inflicted]

I've got an S14.5 and recently converted the headlights with an HID kit. The cutoff and output is great, but I'm increasingly worried about blinding oncoming motorists with my rhd projectors. I found a neat thread here where someone said they had converted their S15 lights to use Acura TSX projectors, but I would like some more opinions and information on whether and how this could be done.

Old thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/153390-s15-hid-fitment-help.html
My car:
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/1143/a2dm2.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6286/cutoff006ms6.jpg

[Vinny]

if you're going to retrofit...why not just swap the 2 projectors from left to right and vice-versa? Wouldn't that solve the problem?

[Pank]

its not the projectors, they just shoot straight ahead, its the housing that has them angled to point into oncoming traffic, as our cars point them to the right, to not blind on coming cars, as well as light the shoulder of the road. If you retrofit, you'll probably have to cut plastic, and then you can just re-aim them then

edit:
depending on how much adjustment they have (no clue), you may be able to get a lighting shop/inspection place to re aim them

[blackrms13]

if you're going to retrofit...why not just swap the 2 projectors from left to right and vice-versa? Wouldn't that solve the problem?
no sir
if u swap them the light will still be wrong for LHD vehicle

[The Inflicted]

What's confusing me is that I can't seem to aim the current projectors- there's two knobs for each of them, one above the other, but both of them seem to adjust the elevation- neither will move the beams left to right.

[Vinny]

ah ok, I stand corrected. Thanks guys!

[blackrms13]

RHD projectors will have the cut off like this __/-- __/--
i think some projectors u can just flip the shield or something to change it to --\__ --\__

hit up hidplanet for more info

[The Inflicted]

Someone asked me how I was able to fit an HID headlight kit into these projectors in the first place, so I'll show you.


First the kit I used. I'm an incurable eBay cheapskate and I bought the cheapest kit I could find- the super slim Xentec kit. The S15's bulb size is H1 and I'm after more of a factory look for my car (and I don't relish the idea of getting pulled over) so I went with the 5000k bulbs. I think it came to around $80 with shipping.

http://64.40.159.224/ebay/Slim%20kit/completeKit.jpg

It's a very nice kit. The bulbs come encased in protective threaded plastic protectors and all the connections very easy to use insulated snap connectors. The ballasts were so small it was a breeze to bolt them to the front of the radiator support. I had to go to ACE to find a set of screws that fit (they're some odd metric size) since the kit only came with double-sided tape and zipties for this job.

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/8280/hidheadlightfix005so4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/8280/hidheadlightfix005so4.4d73efe556.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=375&i=hidheadlightfix005so4.jpg)

Threading all the wiring around was a little harder but still not a pain. I was actually able to do all the re-wiring without removing the headlights by jacking the car up and working from below. The hardest part was feeding the wires for the new HID headlight through the little hole at the bottom of the sealed beam housing. This would have been a lot easier had I removed the lights.
I had to do one small modification to the wiring to get the kit to fit though- the adapter the kit came with to connect to stock headlight wires to the ballast's input cables was the wrong size, so I used a dremel to grind down the spades on the kit until they connected with the headlight female fittings, then taped over them. I bet the kit's wiring adapter would have worked if I had the factory connections, but since my headlights didn't come with any wires the wiring is all custom and nonstandard.

It was the bulbs themselves that gave me the biggest problems. This is where I ran into the problems I had read about on the internet. HID bulbs are apparently slightly thicker at the base than stock H1 bulbs, and the Nissan headlight housing doesn't leave enough room for the bakelite plastic base of the lights to fit into the housing properly. I tried to force it at first and the bulbs didn't fit in flush. They went in most of the way, but it felt like I was going in at an angle and I was afraid the bulb was about to break. The wire retainer would barely close to keep them secure in the housing, and when I tested them the light pattern was all over the place. You can see in this picture how it's not really in there right.
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1932/hidheadlightfix010pa6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1932/hidheadlightfix010pa6.01f847173e.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=509&i=hidheadlightfix010pa6.jpg)
The problem was fixed by removing some of the plastic base so that it would clear the housing. I wrapped the bulb in some thin foam to protect it from the dremel and my fingers, tapped over that, then VERY carefully used a dremel emory wheel to grind away some of the base around the areas that it was contacting the housing. You can see in this picture how it fits much more naturally in the light. As far as I can tell, this cured the focusing problem right away.
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5932/hidheadlightfix020sx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5932/hidheadlightfix020sx4.2a6cd506b1.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=244&i=hidheadlightfix020sx4.jpg)

Before:

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5075/s145a2023lk6.jpg

After:

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8768/hid2005mu6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8768/hid2005mu6.0117d6acdf.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=515&i=hid2005mu6.jpg)

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/4884/hid003sr8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/4884/hid003sr8.b87eec615b.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=295&i=hid003sr8.jpg)

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/9457/hid012qz2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/9457/hid012qz2.050479c975.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=295&i=hid012qz2.jpg)

So in conclusion, you CAN put HID lights in "normal" S15 projectors, the cheap eBay Xentec kits do work (at least mine's been working for about 2 weeks).
Also, I agonized for a long time over whether to go with 5000k or 6000k lights, as I was worried that the 5000k might be too yellow or too dim- turns out I was right to go with 5000k; any brighter or bluer than this would have been truly obnoxious.

[brokeAs240sx]

The only retrofit write ups I've seen are the guys who run tsx in projectors in s13 triple projectors & s2k projectors into s14 kouki lights - you can search on here for those write ups. You'd probably be the first one to do a write up (if you do make one) for s15 lhd projector fit.

Another option is to take out the projector & trim the actual piece that makes the rhd style. Then either leave it straight, or add a piece of metal to make your own lhd thing - I believe there was a write up for this as well.

Basically rhd metal cut off piece:
---\__

Then you trim
_____

From here, you will get a flat cut off & can just lower as necessary

or

Optionally add a piece of metal, either by drill & screw or welding
__/---

A few guys did this w/ their triple projectors to save on cost of buying tsx projectors.

[The Inflicted]

The only retrofit write ups I've seen are the guys who run tsx in projectors in s13 triple projectors & s2k projectors into s14 kouki lights - you can search on here for those write ups. You'd probably be the first one to do a write up (if you do make one) for s15 lhd projector fit.

Another option is to take out the projector & trim the actual piece that makes the rhd style. Then either leave it straight, or add a piece of metal to make your own lhd thing - I believe there was a write up for this as well.

Basically rhd metal cut off piece:
---\__

Then you trim
_____

From here, you will get a flat cut off & can just lower as necessary

or

Optionally add a piece of metal, either by drill & screw or welding
__/---

A few guys did this w/ their triple projectors to save on cost of buying tsx projectors.

This sounds much more realistic than cutting up the projector housings, buying $100 worth of Honda projectors, and fabricating new brackets for everything. I was wondering if I couldn't just use a washer or two to re-aim the headlights this way.

The only trouble is, I've tried before to take my headlight housings apart and couldn't. Does anyone have a writeup on how to disassemble the headlight assemblies? I assume it takes a screwdriver and a heatgun, but if anyone has done it before I'd love to hear how it's done without breaking the plastic.

[brokeAs240sx]

This sounds much more realistic than cutting up the projector housings, buying $100 worth of Honda projectors, and fabricating new brackets for everything. I was wondering if I couldn't just use a washer or two to re-aim the headlights this way.

The only trouble is, I've tried before to take my headlight housings apart and couldn't. Does anyone have a writeup on how to disassemble the headlight assemblies? I assume it takes a screwdriver and a heatgun, but if anyone has done it before I'd love to hear how it's done without breaking the plastic.

There's MANY write ups for this as well ;) - you should search.

I've never done plastic, but I've done glass - i.e. aftermarket s13 popups & my silvia projectors.

The best way is usually w/ the oven method - 350 degrees or so for 3-5 minutes, or just hot enough - not sure on exact #'s any more because it's been a while since I've used the oven method. Then pry & take your time. I've managed to break a few housings.

I use the heat gun method now - it's a little faster if you have a quality heat gun, but there is more maintenance since you are responsible for keeping everything even. I've slightly chipped my housing because I rushed it.

Silvia projectors also have 4 retaining clips, so those had to be unclipped before heating. Not sure if S15 has something like that or not.

The plastic on the s15 headlights, I have no clue how it will hold up against the heat - but I'm guessing it should hold up better than the housing it is attached to, so you shouldn't have a problem.

If I were you, I'd practice on a couple s13 popup aftermarket headlights - those are only about $20 a pair.

[The Inflicted]

There's MANY write ups for this as well ;) - you should search.

Well if you can find them you're a better man than I. I've looked.

I've taken apart S14 housings before just by taking my time with my heat gun, but I want to hear from someone who has worked on a S15 lights specifically, not some other kind of Nissan projector. If there are some tricks or hard-to-find catches I want to know about them before I ruin a $300 housing assembly.

[The Inflicted]

I just thought of something else- It seems like an inordinate amount of work to modify the headlight to accept a Honda-made TSX projector unit. Nissan has always been good about using standard parts for vehicles across their range, so it got me to wondering- is there another Nissan or Infiniti car made that has projectors that will easily swap into the S15? I was thinking specifically of other Nissans from that time period- the 350Z, Murano, etc. Does anyone know if those projectors are a common size with the S15s?

[The Inflicted]

Does anyone at least have a detailed diagram or high-res picture of an S15 headlamp disassembled? I want to go ahead with this project but the car is my daily driver- I need to know what I'm doing so I don't take my only car off the road for several nights.

[The Inflicted]

I hate to re-up my own thread, but I'll be tearing into the things tomorrow.
I'm hoping that this whole affair will be as easy as disassembling the projectors and flipping the cutoff shield back-to-front, but we'll see.
Any advice?

[The Inflicted]

Ok, got the cutoff shield out, it looks like I'm out of luck: the cutoff shield and the projector bracket are in one piece. I'm going to have to go to the grind/fabricate method if I want to change the cutoff pattern.

Any bright ideas on how this should be done?

http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/3382/0cutoffshieldno1.th.jpg (http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0cutoffshieldno1.jpg)

[burnsauto]

contact mike at clearcorners.com (or am i not allowed to mention that name on zilvia anymore :keke:)

If you're nice, maybe he'll help you out instead of charging you money. lol

[The Inflicted]

Mike just tried to sell me stuff, but after reading some posts on an Audi forum I figured out what to do on my own.

First thing you ought to notice from the picture above is that the cutoff shields are shaped in the opposite direction of what they do; because of the reflection it's the LEFT side of the shield that is higher than the right. This has to be reversed.

I started by using duct tape to mark the baseline of the shield, the used a dremel to grind down all the aluminum on the left side that was above the mark. Once it was leveled-out I had flat cutoff which looked like this:
\http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/8962/0cutoff1ol4.th.jpg (http://img242.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0cutoff1ol4.jpg)

Then I cut apart a coke can to make a new raised cutoff portion for the right side. This was temporarily attached with more duct tape to get the desired height then permanently riveted into place.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6886/0cutoff2ck6.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0cutoff2ck6.jpg)

Finally I resprayed the converted shield/housing with high temperature flat black.
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9238/0cutoff3ip2.th.jpg (http://img521.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0cutoff3ip2.jpg)

Here's a quick and dirty pic of the new safe-for-everybody else pattern. I was really tired so they're not aimed properly yet, but I can already tell by ducking and looking at the lights that this will stop the lights from blinding oncoming traffic.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/3734/cutoff026dp5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/cutoff026dp5.jpg/1/w640.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img222/cutoff026dp5.jpg/1/)
Oh, and I discovered something else while I had the lights apart: You CAN aim S15 headlights side to side- it's just difficult. The cutoff shield/projector housing is held in place by the two aiming screws AND a ball joint which it pivots on. The two knobs move the beam up and down, BUT if you screw them BOTH in or out it will change the beam direction left to right. For example, if you were to turn both of the driver's side knobs one turn clockwise it would move the beam to the left, and vise versa for the passenger side. As you might imagine, this takes forever, so I just got the beams to where they're safe and I'll fine-tune them sometime next week.

[killer240]

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/1143/a2dm2.jpg
[/quote]



can anyone lead me to a thread or post how to wire up S15 lights like this to an S13
like when you put it on high beam both high and low beam is on not just the high beam.

[smokei]

Sorry to dig this one post out of retirement, but I was thinking about attempting the lhd conversion on my car as well. Also do you get a lot of shake when driving around? I am hoping that a s15 bumper reinforcement bar helps.

[The Inflicted]

Sorry to dig this one post out of retirement, but I was thinking about attempting the lhd conversion on my car as well. Also do you get a lot of shake when driving around? I am hoping that a s15 bumper reinforcement bar helps.

No, the lights are extremely stable, and to my knowledge the bumper is as well. Everything keys together like a puzzle.
The only thing that moves at all at speed is the hood, which surprises me since it's the one thing that bolts on without modification. I guess it just as a lot of wind force underneath it.

Here's my full (re)build thread: http://forums.nicoclub.com/fastest-way-to-adjust-front-camber-on-an-s14-t297921.html
Hope it's OK that it's on another forum.

The lights themselves are bolted on with several points of contact, and they're held in place by the fenders as well.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7821/s145a2005gk7.jpg

[smokei]

I've taken apart S14 housings before just by taking my time with my heat gun, but I want to hear from someone who has worked on a S15 lights specifically, not some other kind of Nissan projector. If there are some tricks or hard-to-find catches I want to know about them before I ruin a $300 housing assembly.

Did you eventually use the heat gun method to open them up? An oven seems a little too risky for me, but I also don't want to chip the housings. I'm considering doing this as well and cant spend upward of $1500 for someone else to do this.

Also do you get a lot of shake when driving around? I am hoping that a s15 bumper reinforcement bar helps.



can anyone lead me to a thread or post how to wire up S15 lights like this to an S13
like when you put it on high beam both high and low beam is on not just the high beam.

Here is a link, but i think this guy supports a company that this thread doesn't.
Yoshi's S13-S15 Conversion (http://www.360realms.com/S13-S15/Day08.html)

[The Inflicted]

Did you eventually use the heat gun method to open them up? An oven seems a little too risky for me, but I also don't want to chip the housings. I'm considering doing this as well and cant spend upward of $1500 for someone else to do this.

Yes, I used a heat gun.
First, make sure ALL of the clips and screws are out. It's been a couple years so I can't remember how many of these things there are but there are a LOT. Once those are out, the housing shells still won't be able to budge, so don't expect that.

The best method I found was to work with a friend. Start at one corner and very slowly alternate blowing heat and using a steak knife or something to gently cut the softened glue away and pry apart the halves. Once it starts to separate enough to get a finger in, have your friend get his fingers in and constantly apply pressure to the halves while you apply heat at the lowest part where the glue is still firm. Take your time, and be cautious about holding the heat gun over one area for too long- the glue will liquefy a long time before the plastic housing does but you CAN warp or melt the housing with the heat gun if you hold it over the same place for several seconds.
Just make sure you do this somewhere where dripping glue (The glue should usually never get hot enough to actually "drip") isn't going to ruin the carpet and both of you ought to wear cotton gloves to keep from burning your hands on the hot plastic.

[smokei]

I just ordered a s15 front bumper retainer from West Covina Nissan's Nismo shop (https://www.thenismoshop.com/catalog/240SX_180SX_Silvia-Front/Nissan_JDM_S15_Front_Bumper_Retainer.html). I'm hoping that it firms up my baby's headlights and makes the car's lights not shake either.