Running Rich, black smoke, did lots of searching.

[TTrx7Pete]

Ok, I have a bit of a problem.

First the car:

97 240sx with an S14 SR20DET blacktop VTC.
Modifications:
New spark plugs
255lph Walbro Fuel Pump
GReddy FMIC
Intake
Full 3" exhaust.

Problem:

The car at idle belches black smoke. It smells of fuel and most definitely is because of the black smoke. I'm new to the Nissan scene, but I've been modifying rotaries for over 10 years. The car idles at 800rpm with about 10-11 vacuum. The car will rev past 2500 rpm while at a stop. While driving the car, it will rev freely but feels weak, due to the continued rich state. The engine only boosts about 5-6 psi while floored. I do not have a boost controller and I am only running the wastegate off of the intercooler piping.

If I unplug the MAF, the car revs up for a few seconds then sputters out and dies. The MAF voltages check out. The o2 voltages check out. The igniter chip voltages check out. All of the coil packs have the correct voltage as well. I also check continuity throughout all of the systems.

Next I performed a vacuum/boost leak check. I found a leak at the turbo inlet elbow, fixed it, and it did not solve the problem. I used a homemade pressure testing kit, as can be found on this forum and used a Ford dealership smoke kit, which pressurizes the system with smoke to find vacuum leaks.

All of the electrical connections are done properly with Ford/aero grade electrical connectors, no cheap butt connectors. Everything is shrink wrapped and neat. The MAF and o2 both have the correct shielded wire.

There are no other vacuum leaks, the MAF checks out, the Igniter checks out, o2 checks out, and the coil packs out.

Things I have yet to check:

Timing
Fuel Pressure

----------------------------

As I researched this problem, most Zilvians fail to finish the thread with how the problem was solved. Suggestions litter the threads but no resolution. I wanted some input to see what you guys think. Others have said get an FPR but most other members say you do not need an FPR when using the Walbro. This is really getting annoying and I'd like to enjoy the car.

Any help, suggestions, etc., are appreciated.

If any other information is needed, please let me know.:wavey:

[louisdaboois]

i'd check ohms on the injectors, and make sure that they are sufficient. should read over 10hms for high impedence (which sr's use). my guess is that one or more of the injectors may be stuck open.

[MangoDorifto]

Check your connections at the ECU and dashboard connectors. Push down firmly but evenly on the ECU connector and make sure the 10mm bolt is snugged up. Also make sure the lever on the dashboard connector is in the locked position.

Has it always ran like this, or did it just happen? Are you running a wideband?

[bmx22]

vac should be like 19, may be vac leak.

[TTrx7Pete]

Check your connections at the ECU and dashboard connectors. Push down firmly but evenly on the ECU connector and make sure the 10mm bolt is snugged up. Also make sure the lever on the dashboard connector is in the locked position.

Has it always ran like this, or did it just happen? Are you running a wideband?

The car has always ran like this since I got it first started. I completed the swap and it has been doing this ever since.

The ECU is snugged up and the M63/F4 plug is in the locked position.

I do not have a wideband o2.

I will check the ohms on the injectors.

[TTrx7Pete]

vac should be like 19 may be vac leak

I've pressurized the system and there isn't a boost leak. I'm pretty sure the low vacuum is due to the car running rich and the car's inability to feed enough air into the chamber to compensate for the fuel.

[koukimonster139]

sounds like timing....
maybe



do you have control over fuel pressure or a way to monitor it?

[Z U L8R]

put in a new coolant temp sensor (for the ecu aka 2 wire) out of a 92 sentra se-r (they came with sr20de and they're the same part) it's all of a $20 part

after you put that in with a very deep 19mm socket and teflon GOO (not teflon tape)
get a timing light and set the base timing to 15 degrees before top dead center (15 degrees advanced)

and that should take care of that

post back with the results once you're done with that.

[MangoDorifto]

Did you change the fuel pump out at the same time of the swap? Have you tried putting the stocker back in to see if it still runs rich?

[TTrx7Pete]

put in a new coolant temp sensor (for the ecu aka 2 wire) out of a 92 sentra se-r (they came with sr20de and they're the same part) it's all of a $20 part

after you put that in with a very deep 19mm socket and teflon GOO (not teflon tape)
get a timing light and set the base timing to 15 degrees before top dead center (15 degrees advanced)

and that should take care of that

post back with the results once you're done with that.


Is it common for these temp sensors to fail because the engine has sat? Just curious because most of these imported engines purportedly have 30-50k miles on them. But I shall try that and see what happens.

Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

[Z U L8R]

yes, it is very common

in fact just about every swap we do that is one of the thing's replaced as well as the thermostat etc etc etc

when a coolant temp sensor fails it typically tells the ecu it's -20 to -40 degrees outside, so the ecu responds (like a choke on a cold lawn mower engine) by dumping fuel

Dave

[Z U L8R]

these motors are 20 years old.....i don't believe the 30-50k talk like it were written in stone any longer, and honestly how many importers drain the block?

sr's are luckier since they're an aluminum block but 90% of all rb's coolant passages have a ton of rust in em.

on sr swaps i leave it up to the customer but i always recommend it. on rb swaps you don't have a choice, you're getting a new thermostat and a new coolant temp sensor, and it'd be in your best interest to do the timing belt water pump as well. heh

gl man, keep me posted
Dave

[TTrx7Pete]

put in a new coolant temp sensor (for the ecu aka 2 wire) out of a 92 sentra se-r (they came with sr20de and they're the same part) it's all of a $20 part

after you put that in with a very deep 19mm socket and teflon GOO (not teflon tape)
get a timing light and set the base timing to 15 degrees before top dead center (15 degrees advanced)

and that should take care of that

post back with the results once you're done with that.

Dave @ Lethal Injection Motorsports
770-343-9969

Do you know the Nissan part #? The dealership told me that there are 2 engine temp sensors and were wanting my VIN#. I figured they would be interchangeable but I just need to make sure before I special order the part.

[Z U L8R]

i don't know the nissan part number but you can google it. the wells part number is SU4115 (a brand that most part stores will have in stock)

if you want to get it from the dealership tell the guy it's the one on the left, the one with the 2 wires that's for the ecu, not the one with 1 blade on the right that's for your coolant guage, you want the one for your ecu.

Dave

[TTrx7Pete]

i don't know the nissan part number but you can google it. the wells part number is SU4115 (a brand that most part stores will have in stock)

if you want to get it from the dealership tell the guy it's the one on the left, the one with the 2 wires that's for the ecu, not the one with 1 blade on the right that's for your coolant guage, you want the one for your ecu.

Dave

Yeah the dealership was saying that there are 2 different 2 wire coolant temp sensors. I'll basically have to look at mine and see which one of theirs I need. Until then I'm going to check out the timing next week.

[0wn3r]

Until then I'm going to check out the timing next week.

Make sure you have the right MAF. The Zenki one plugs in but it will run very rich. (240sxmotoring.com has the part numbers listed in their SR Swap FAQ)

You should have already checked your timing too. Mine wasn't billowing smoke after I got the right MAF on, but my CAS was dirty as hell. Reset the timing, then my idle got weird and turns out the IACV needed to be cleaned.

Does it idle smoothly?

Also, like mentioned, the 19inHG is about where you should be (i'm typically around 18-22 when sitting at idle...depends if brake is pressed or not) It only goes to about 16 if I'm repeatedly pumping the brakes.

[Z U L8R]

just go to autozone or advanced auto parts and pick one up

Dave

[TTrx7Pete]

Make sure you have the right MAF. The Zenki one plugs in but it will run very rich. (240sxmotoring.com has the part numbers listed in their SR Swap FAQ)

You should have already checked your timing too. Mine wasn't billowing smoke after I got the right MAF on, but my CAS was dirty as hell. Reset the timing, then my idle got weird and turns out the IACV needed to be cleaned.

Does it idle smoothly?

Also, like mentioned, the 19inHG is about where you should be (i'm typically around 18-22 when sitting at idle...depends if brake is pressed or not) It only goes to about 16 if I'm repeatedly pumping the brakes.
I don't understand what you are saying about the maf. I have a wc ecu with an oval plug hitachi nissan maf. This should mean I have a chuki harness and maf.

[0wn3r]

I don't understand what you are saying about the maf. I have a wc ecu with an oval plug hitachi nissan maf. This should mean I have a chuki harness and maf.

Well I have an NA ecu and the zenki MAF was able to be plugged in to the kouki harness but it ran too rich. Turns out they gave me a Zenki MAF instead of a kouki MAF. I can't say off the top of my head whether or not it's a Hitachi though, sorry. (According to what is written below, it would seem as if they gave me a "Chuki" MAF....but unfortunately I think everyone's definition of zenki/chuki/kouki vary slightly)


WC*= S14 (notchtop) MT5 - 94-96 Zenki Silvia or Chuki Silvia*

* = Red connector was used on Zenki Silvias, Black connector was used on Chuki Silvias. The only difference is in the MAF connector. Zenki's used a rectangle plug while Chukis used the same oval plug as the NA/NB ECU kouki motors.


Look to see whether the motor has fins on the head too.

Then check this page out: Part Numbers! (http://240sxmotoring.com/partnumbers.html)

[TTrx7Pete]

Right, but Zenki's have a rectangular plug. Chuki and Kouki both had oval MAF plugs. The crossover year, Chuki, ran a WC Ecu with a "kouki-style" MAF.

The Kouki SR20 uses an NA ecu with an oval MAF plug...

How were you able to plug up an Oval connector to the Rectangular MAF? Or is this just some confusion on my part?

[shmiddy]

vac should be like 19, may be vac leak.


+1 for you

vac seems kinda low.... :mepoke: check that out

[TTrx7Pete]

+1 for you

vac seems kinda low.... :mepoke: check that out

Read OP...

Already checked that. Pressurized and smoked the entire system. I will be doing my timing tonight after I get in from out of town.

[blackej7]

Any codes?

[0wn3r]

How were you able to plug up an Oval connector to the Rectangular MAF? Or is this just some confusion on my part?

I think just some confusion, I made a post elsewhere to try and clear up the chuki and zenki part numbers.

One thing I do know, they handed us a MAF with a rectangle plug when were were there, and it didn't line up. They shipped another one later that fit, but it was 22680-69F00, when I really needed the 22680-69F01. It fit and was still giving a signal but it wasn't right...different part number for a reason I guess.

All I'm saying is it might be worth checking. Who knows, it could be an injector or o-ring.

[njd07]

10 to 11 vac is very low...you must have a leak somewhere.

[TTrx7Pete]

I think just some confusion, I made a post elsewhere to try and clear up the chuki and zenki part numbers.

One thing I do know, they handed us a MAF with a rectangle plug when were were there, and it didn't line up. They shipped another one later that fit, but it was 22680-69F00, when I really needed the 22680-69F01. It fit and was still giving a signal but it wasn't right...different part number for a reason I guess.

All I'm saying is it might be worth checking. Who knows, it could be an injector or o-ring.

Interesting... I actually have a 22680-69F01.

I checked the timing today and it was perfect. So that leads me to believe it is either the MAF if you are correct that the part numbers really make a difference, or an injector, o-ring, engine temp sensor, or somehow a magic vacuum leak.

To all posters suggesting a vacuum leak. It's been suggested. I have already smoked my system and pressurized it in an effort to find one. Thank you all for your help, but if you have any other suggestions besides Vacuum leak, please post.

[0wn3r]

Interesting... I actually have a 22680-69F01.

I checked the timing today and it was perfect. So that leads me to believe it is either the MAF if you are correct that the part numbers really make a difference, or an injector, o-ring, engine temp sensor, or somehow a magic vacuum leak.

To all posters suggesting a vacuum leak. It's been suggested. I have already smoked my system and pressurized it in an effort to find one. Thank you all for your help, but if you have any other suggestions besides Vacuum leak, please post.

maybe borrow someone's F00 and test it out.

[TTrx7Pete]

maybe borrow someone's F00 and test it out.

That will be easier said than done. I'm going to replace the ECU's coolant temp sensor and recheck for any vacuum leaks.

[Erjay1]

Quick question since we are on this topic. Could a faulty CTS cause my idle to be ridiculously high in the mornings?? Or even if the car sits for maybe two or three hours my idle will shoot up pretty high until it warms up.

[0wn3r]

That will be easier said than done. I'm going to replace the ECU's coolant temp sensor and recheck for any vacuum leaks.


I'm sure there's alot of XAT-swapped cars down there...shouldn't be too difficult, but def easier said than done haha.

Quick question since we are on this topic. Could a faulty CTS cause my idle to be ridiculously high in the mornings?? Or even if the car sits for maybe two or three hours my idle will shoot up pretty high until it warms up.

define ridiculously high (with a #).

[Erjay1]

Ridiculously high as in 2.5k - 3k rpm for a few minutes.

[TTrx7Pete]

Well I checked for vacuum leaks again and found a pin-sized hole in my aluminum hot pipe. After repairing it, there was no noticable change in my vacuum or how the car runs.... so I'm still stuck. Got the coolant temp sensor on order. Imagine I'll be checking out my fuel pressure as well as it seems some people on the forum have problems with the 255lph Walbro pump?

[TTrx7Pete]

yes, it is very common

in fact just about every swap we do that is one of the thing's replaced as well as the thermostat etc etc etc

when a coolant temp sensor fails it typically tells the ecu it's -20 to -40 degrees outside, so the ecu responds (like a choke on a cold lawn mower engine) by dumping fuel

Dave

Would this contribute to low vacuum as well?

[TTrx7Pete]

i'd check ohms on the injectors, and make sure that they are sufficient. should read over 10hms for high impedence (which sr's use). my guess is that one or more of the injectors may be stuck open.

All injectors are around 11.4 ohms.

[0wn3r]

Well I checked for vacuum leaks again and found a pin-sized hole in my aluminum hot pipe. After repairing it, there was no noticable change in my vacuum or how the car runs.... so I'm still stuck. Got the coolant temp sensor on order. Imagine I'll be checking out my fuel pressure as well as it seems some people on the forum have problems with the 255lph Walbro pump?

I can't say whether or not I've had problems, but I've started "priming" it and letting it kick on before ignition.

Also, can't really say much about the high idle since the spring/clip on my water pump is broken...so I've never seen it work the way it should.

[TTrx7Pete]

Well I'm still hunting down some vacuum leaks. We've had to pressurize the crap out of it. The leaks are so infintisimle that I have to pressurize to over 20psi to get them.

However, fixing these little leaks has not improved my situation...

[TTrx7Pete]

Update:

I tested my coil packs per FSM and the plug pull method. The coilpacks check out. I no longer have any vacuum leaks. All of the small ones that I had are gone.

I still have not replaced the coolant temp sensor, but plan on it tomorrow. My job has been keeping me from getting any real time to take apart the car :(

I'm really going to try to replace it tomorrow and see if that even makes one iota of a difference. If not, I'm moving on to fuel pressure.

Driving Impression:

The car drives perfectly fine, and smooth under boost. On deceleration the car's vacuum is at 20-22 hg/mm vacuum and it decelerates smoothly without any hesitation or bucking.

However, under vacuum the car will buck, hesitate, and run pig rich. The idle is still at 11-12 hg/mm vacuum. It runs extremely rich at idle still.

Anymore ideas?

[TTrx7Pete]

Anyone? This one fell way down the list... help help help.

[0wn3r]

Update:

I tested my coil packs per FSM and the plug pull method. The coilpacks check out. I no longer have any vacuum leaks. All of the small ones that I had are gone.

I still have not replaced the coolant temp sensor, but plan on it tomorrow. My job has been keeping me from getting any real time to take apart the car :(

I'm really going to try to replace it tomorrow and see if that even makes one iota of a difference. If not, I'm moving on to fuel pressure.

Driving Impression:

The car drives perfectly fine, and smooth under boost. On deceleration the car's vacuum is at 20-22 hg/mm vacuum and it decelerates smoothly without any hesitation or bucking.

However, under vacuum the car will buck, hesitate, and run pig rich. The idle is still at 11-12 hg/mm vacuum. It runs extremely rich at idle still.

Anymore ideas?

Strange. I'm usually at 11-15 when traveling in vacuum.

You ever get your hands on a diff MAF just to test it out?

[TTrx7Pete]

Yeah its still the same. I spent like an hour last night talking with the people at FRsport. They think it is probably my IACV. I plan on taking it off, inspecting, cleaning it, and replacing the gasket. They stated they have known bad IACVs to cause my problem. Additionally I can adjust the screw on my IACV and it does absolutely nothing to the idle on the car.

So I'm going to go through that sometime this week. I plan on replacing my throttle body gasket, coolant temp sensor, upper to lower intake manifold gasket, injector o-rings, etc. While I would hate to do all of this at once, because it will muddle the results, I just want to start fresh I guess. I'll update once more after I get these parts in.

Just been super busy and try to knock out the items that are easy to get to!

[TTrx7Pete]

Update:

IACV:
Checked my IACV and cleaned it. Upon inspection I noticed that the IACV was extremely dirty. I cleaned it out and checked the plunger. The plunger and spring were fine and the cleaning did me some good. After cleaning the valve my idle vacuum improved to 15-16 in/hg vacuum. That is pretty good but still not perfect.

Plugs:
I pulled my plugs as well to check the gap. The gap was fine but they were pitch black. I decided to put the "old" plugs back in, the ones that my engine came with, and it ran a little smoother. I'm sure that the plugs were fouled, and as above I noticed some increase in my idle vacuum.

Problem:
Still at the same problem but still needing I guess about 3-6 in/hg of vacuum.

[sbc]

I had a similar problem with my s14 sr that I finally resolved yesterday.

I reset timing following FSM procedures with the TPS unplugged. The FSM calls for 15 degrees + or - 2 so I set it +2 hoping the advance would help lean it out.

Anyways the car started to run great until I plugged the TPS back in. Anyways it turned out the TPS had shit the bed and was giving 4.7 (almost WOT) volts when it should have been giving 0.7.

I also did change the water temp sensor but that did not help.
For the record, the sensor is not the same on the SR20DE as the DET. I compared both side by side at the dealership and they are not even close.
I dont have the part # handy but I'll post it when I find it.

[TTrx7Pete]

I had a similar problem with my s14 sr that I finally resolved yesterday.

I reset timing following FSM procedures with the TPS unplugged. The FSM calls for 15 degrees + or - 2 so I set it +2 hoping the advance would help lean it out.

Anyways the car started to run great until I plugged the TPS back in. Anyways it turned out the TPS had shit the bed and was giving 4.7 (almost WOT) volts when it should have been giving 0.7.

I also did change the water temp sensor but that did not help.
For the record, the sensor is not the same on the SR20DE as the DET. I compared both side by side at the dealership and they are not even close.
I dont have the part # handy but I'll post it when I find it.

Were you experiencing the low vacuum problems as well?

[240srhatch]

check the cts, i had the same exact problem

[sbc]

Yeah I did have vacuum issues to an extent. I tried adjusting timing without a light and ended up setting it way off (I didnt drive it like this). When the timing was that bad so was the idle and so was vacuum. It was down around 10inHg. I'm now back up to a healthy 19inHg and waiting on my TPS to get here.

[TTrx7Pete]

Yeah I did have vacuum issues to an extent. I tried adjusting timing without a light and ended up setting it way off (I didnt drive it like this). When the timing was that bad so was the idle and so was vacuum. It was down around 10inHg. I'm now back up to a healthy 19inHg and waiting on my TPS to get here.

Right, so did resolving all of your vacuum leaks bring you to 19 in/hg vacuum or was it your timing? And if both, how much of a combination? I'm at around 15 in/hg now... Just need a few more to feel confident.

[sbc]

I didnt physically fix any vacuum leaks. The only thing that had been changed was timing so I figured one way or another that that was my issue. It fluctuated from 10-15inHg with bad timing and is now back at 19inHg.

The car feels much more sensitive to weather now but I think SRs are just bitchy motors in general.

[TTrx7Pete]

Ok I'll see what happens.

[TTrx7Pete]

I didnt physically fix any vacuum leaks. The only thing that had been changed was timing so I figured one way or another that that was my issue. It fluctuated from 10-15inHg with bad timing and is now back at 19inHg.

The car feels much more sensitive to weather now but I think SRs are just bitchy motors in general.

Ok, I ended up checking my PCV valve and it was good.

When I went to install my new coolant temp sensor I found that it was the incorrect one. The S13 and S14 uses different sensors. So now I've ordered a new one of those as well as some gaskets.

After I replace the CTS I'll see what happens, if nothing, then I'm going to take the damn thing apart.

[TTrx7Pete]

Any codes?

I get a 55, no malfunction.


Still trying to get any ideas? The no codes thing now makes me wonder if my coolant temp sensor is bad or not. I'm awaiting gaskets to redo my timing mechanically...

[idahotuner]

i am not going to bother reading through this, but your having the same problem i am. you might want to check your injector O rings. we finally tracked my problem down to that. and when i pulled the injectors out and the tips were as wet as the ycould get and around the lower o rings too. so i have ordereda new set of o rings and will see if it helps.

[TTrx7Pete]

i am not going to bother reading through this, but your having the same problem i am. you might want to check your injector O rings. we finally tracked my problem down to that. and when i pulled the injectors out and the tips were as wet as the ycould get and around the lower o rings too. so i have ordereda new set of o rings and will see if it helps.

I'm not having a flooding problem though. My car will start right up after running. My car starts right up hot or cold. My symptoms stay no matter if my car is hot or cold.

[idahotuner]

same as mine. turns out the injector seals off the 300zxtt 1995 arnt the correct cross over ones.

my car starts up and runs to temp. and it is doing the same exact thing weather it is hot or cold. mine only will flood completely when i adjust the spark timing.

[fatlizzard]

I was having the same problem and it was my fuel injector o-rings !!!

[sbc]

You could just pull the water temp sensor and see if the car bogs out which it should if the sensor is good. I didnt say anything about PCV. Have you checked your TPS yet or what?

This might sound way out there but what kind of catch can setup are you running? Like how is it plumbed?

[TTrx7Pete]

You could just pull the water temp sensor and see if the car bogs out which it should if the sensor is good. I didnt say anything about PCV. Have you checked your TPS yet or what?

This might sound way out there but what kind of catch can setup are you running? Like how is it plumbed?

Checked TPS - good
PCV - Good
No catch can - factory set up.

[500Coupe]

I read through most of this post and didnt see where you said you changed the coolant temp sensor, like someone said to do on the first page (i may have over looked it).

Anyway, I'm having the same problem, running 10.5 a/f at idle. I've double checked my MAF wiring and vac/boost leaks, fixed the leaks that I found, and nothing has changed. My next step is going to be coolant temp sensor and injector O-rings. You should give those a try and see if it fixes anything.

I've come across a couple post where the cause of the problem was either O-rings or coolant temp sensor...good luck man.

[TTrx7Pete]

I read through most of this post and didnt see where you said you changed the coolant temp sensor, like someone said to do on the first page (i may have over looked it).

Anyway, I'm having the same problem, running 10.5 a/f at idle. I've double checked my MAF wiring and vac/boost leaks, fixed the leaks that I found, and nothing has changed. My next step is going to be coolant temp sensor and injector O-rings. You should give those a try and see if it fixes anything.

I've come across a couple post where the cause of the problem was either O-rings or coolant temp sensor...good luck man.

That is correct, I have yet to replace the sensor. I just received my new one in the mail today. I plan on installing it after work. I had ordered the incorrect one previously. The S13 and S14 SR motors do NOT use the same CTS.

[500Coupe]

Well, just so you know, the CTS didnt fix my problem...nor are my o-rings bad....

[TTrx7Pete]

Well that sucks. I plan on adjusting the timing mechanically and seeing if that does anything. It helped SBC. I also talked to a local speed shop here that says sometimes that helps.

I won't get to work on it until oh say, Monday.. sucks.

[500Coupe]

Agreed, next on my list is double checking timing as well. I'll let you know if I find anything that may help.

[TTrx7Pete]

Replaced CTS, no change.

[djcobra]

I don't know if this will help you but my car was running super rich a few days ago and I couldn't figure out why, but at the same time I also noticed my VTC acting up. The car started to rattle and sound like a diesel engine at idle. (S14 Kouki SR20 Motor). However, I didn't get any black smoke just ran like a rich pig, anyways, I replaced the VTC Sprocket, and everything is good. Maybe be look into that. Just a thought.

Steve.

[TTrx7Pete]

My S14 Chuki engine idles without noise but if you rev it it sounds like a diesel for a second. I'm trying to get the valve cover off tonight. Just doesn't want to budge. Probably because the engine was warm... ugh.

[djcobra]

Hey Pete,

that rattle you get when you rev the engine is the famous S14 VTC rattle. Your supposed to hear a click from the VTC solenoid when you have the car in gear and blip on throttle. Many S14 SR20DET owners including me are experiencing this problem, some are so worse that you have to replace the VTC sprocket, some just replace the VTC solenoid and hopefully that rattle will go away. From what i've seen and heard the Kouki S14 and S15 Solenoid does not have a mesh like filter where as the S14 Zenki does. I don't know what Nissan was thinking maybe cutting costs?

I doubt you'll see any problems when you have the cover off, but it doesn't hurt to check. Its an easy job, takes about a 10-15 to take it off just be patient and don't over torque those valve cover bolts. There are 15 studs, hopefully you unbolted all of them including the one in the centre of the cover. Good Luck.

Steve.

[TTrx7Pete]

Well after I check my timing, the last thing I know I can do is replace the injector o-rings and insulators. I'm running out of options here.

[steve shadows]

I get a 55, no malfunction.


Still trying to get any ideas? The no codes thing now makes me wonder if my coolant temp sensor is bad or not. I'm awaiting gaskets to redo my timing mechanically...

If you are still finding nothing and you are sure that there is not a single failure in the vaccum system then I suggest you check the wiring harness

This sounds like a bad OUTPUT from a perfectly good ecu, possibly injector, possibly bad output/ operation of MAF itself.

[TTrx7Pete]

What exactly would I be checking? I've put my multimeter to everything and it is withing spec for the FSM...

[steve shadows]

it could be intermittent, some short inside the harness on one of the injector wires.

If everything is 100% perfect on the electrical side of things then it really could be the O-rings

[TTrx7Pete]

Well after I reset the CAS and timing, I'll order myself some o-rings. I've checked the wiring while the car was running and not running. I'm not experiencing any electrical issues that I can detect.

[TTrx7Pete]

I didnt physically fix any vacuum leaks. The only thing that had been changed was timing so I figured one way or another that that was my issue. It fluctuated from 10-15inHg with bad timing and is now back at 19inHg.

The car feels much more sensitive to weather now but I think SRs are just bitchy motors in general.

I mechanically reset my timing and it didn't change a thing. Going to order some injector o-rings. I can't detect a leak at the o-rings though as it is. And for anyone who forgot, this is an S14SR motor, not a S13SR motor, so changing the damn o-rings is a bit more tedious.

[TTrx7Pete]

Another thing I noticed:

The car likes to really hunt for idle until the car is warmed up. It will kind of bounce around a bit between 1500-2500 rpm. When the car reaches operating temperature the idle falls to 800rpm and I get the 10 in/hg of vacuum. When the fans come on the idle smooths out a bit. When the fans turn off the idle will surge a bit and slowly bounce back and forth between 800-1000 rpm.

I placed an order for injector o-rings...

Anyone have any other ideas.. I'm running out of ideas.

[iyhfg]

my car does the same

[sbc]

Ok so this same problem came back. So far I've:
Reset timing a million times
Changed CTS
Changed TPS and set it properly
Went through 5 sets of bkr7e's in 1200km

Anyways I think today I finally fixed it...

I switched to iridium bkr6exx's (cant remember the last two digits) because they were so fouled that my car wouldnt even start and also replaced the FPR with a Nismo unit.

I also put the little brass piece back in the fuel line where it was originally (see the thread I made a few days ago if you dont know what I'm talking about).

Anyways, so far so good I took it for a drive just now and it feels better than it ever has so hopefully it keeps up. I will keep you informed.

[fatlizzard]

My car was doing the same thing,and it was the injector o-rings, if it's been doing this for very long you may need a new cat,mine was melted from all the raw fuel !!!

[TTrx7Pete]

My car was doing the same thing,and it was the injector o-rings, if it's been doing this for very long you may need a new cat,mine was melted from all the raw fuel !!!

I'm going to check them out. I'm not using a cat.

[PaulieS13]

i agree with these guys, check your timing, cts, mass air flow sensor, and ur fuel pressure regulator, the diaphram inside it might be busted and passing way too much gas flooding the plugs, you can check it with a handheld vacuum pump to see if it hold vacuum.

[TTrx7Pete]

Replaced O-rings - NO CHANGE. WTF.

[awhitefuneral]

Dude, wow.........i don't really know what to tell yah, ........sucky, ...everything i can think of has already been posted.....good luck......:bow:

[0wn3r]

*cough*, try that different MAF yet?

[Erjay1]

are you running stock injectors? Mine does the same thing but Im running 550cc injectors with stock ecu. Waiting on my Power FC.

[TTrx7Pete]

*cough*, try that different MAF yet?

No. I am taking it to a shop that says they might have the other MAF we discussed. We are going to try that. If they gave me the wrong MAF, the shop said they would replace it free of charge.

[Erjay1]

Are these stock injectors?? You might have bigger injectors in there. This is exactly what my car does and I have 550's with an untuned ecu.

[TTrx7Pete]

Pretty sure they are stock. Not sure exactly how I'd tell if they were any different. I believe they had a purple colored top with a yellow spray nozzle.

[TTrx7Pete]

Car is in a local speed shop now... I'll let you know what they find.

[d-magic]

I do have an extra MAF sensor (oval connector) if you are having trouble getting one. It was from my last S14 in japan. The engine i have now has the rectangle connector. Just let me know, cause i have no need for it.

[0wn3r]

I do have an extra MAF sensor (oval connector) if you are having trouble getting one. It was from my last S14 in japan. The engine i have now has the rectangle connector. Just let me know, cause i have no need for it.

give the part #.

[TTrx7Pete]

They tried a different MAF sensor with the different part number we discussed earlier. They also tried 3 different ECUs to see if that was it. They did not find any vacuum leaks. The timing was correct. They are now investigating as to whether or not my engine has aftermarket cams...

So we'll see...

[sbc]

For how cheap an aftermarket FPR is you might as well try one out. My problems seemed to be caused by that.

[0wn3r]

They tried a different MAF sensor with the different part number we discussed earlier. They also tried 3 different ECUs to see if that was it. They did not find any vacuum leaks. The timing was correct. They are now investigating as to whether or not my engine has aftermarket cams...

So we'll see...

they check timing after each change?

[monkeyslide17]

i would check the o2 and the maf. I had a problem like that b4 o2 went bad and the maf was bad 89 sr

[TTrx7Pete]

they check timing after each change?

Yep. It's the cams. Car has some type of aftermarket regrind or something. We're just going to go D-Jetro and resolve this crap.

I'll let ya'll know what happens after that.;)

[TTrx7Pete]

Installed D-Jetro. Car runs perfectly now. Found that I had aftermarket cams of some sort. Did some tuning, now the car runs perfectly.

[Erjay1]

Im always right. I knew something wasnt stock. You had checked everything possible. Good job.

[DarylL63]

Check your e-mail, I sent you some info. I had the same problem with my car and was able to correct it. Hopefully you can do the same.

[Om1kron]

Right, but Zenki's have a rectangular plug. Chuki and Kouki both had oval MAF plugs. The crossover year, Chuki, ran a WC Ecu with a "kouki-style" MAF.

The Kouki SR20 uses an NA ecu with an oval MAF plug...

How were you able to plug up an Oval connector to the Rectangular MAF? Or is this just some confusion on my part?

Confusion, granted this is an old thread....

I will simply say. No they are not the same.

http://www.frsport.com/cart_resize.php?file=%2Fimages%2Fdetailed_images%2 FNissan_TempSensor_Newer_01.jpg
image borrowed from frsport. This is the water temp sensor from the s14 sr20 and the ka24de motors.

It requires a two pin plug with a push removal tab. I pulled one off of my ka24de harness and just changed it since the stupid sr connector needs one of those metal paper clip things to hold it on, it comes loose easy.

Testing it today reveals both the gauge sender temp wire is getting voltage, and the ecu temp sensor is also getting voltage and modulates as well so the ecu does see the engine temps.

oh.

This is the s13 sr20det one, and also ka24d

http://www.frsport.com/cart_resize.php?file=%2Fimages%2Fdetailed_images%2 FNissan_ECUTempSensor_1.jpg
Sounds like the poster ended up buying this one instead.

I am having this problem as well, I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, but not entirely sure.

I replaced a coil pack that was cracked, apparently that was not the problem, car is sparking fine, fuel delivery may be the issue but I had removed the injectors before from the intake manifold to clean it, and none of the o-rings were damaged.

timing is set perfectly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/om1kron/My%20Cars/1996%20240sx%20Kouki/2009-05-20-%20temp%20readings/002.jpg
The car idles fine at 800rpm, after revving it a few times it chills at 200 and slowly brings itself back up to 800rpm.

I don't think my IACV is the problem at all, but measuring voltage on my tps, I notice it did not change AT ALL.

I don't recall what it was, but having it probed, and then cranking the throttle the voltage did not change at all, but the wires are not shorted. I've tested them for continuity from the circuit board to the harness plug.

And again I got voltage, but it did not change.

My sr20 for some odd reason has a ka24de throttle body.

=/