Wiring water temp gauge: Tapping turbo coolant line?

[SHIFT_*grind*]

I'm wiring some electric water temp and oil pressure gauges. Oil pressure should be no problem, I'm going to use a 1/8" BSPT --> 1/8" NPT adapter to put the sender in the stock location and ditch the stock gauge. To do the same with the water temp gauge requires an M12 x 1.25" --> 1/8" NPT adapter. After scouring every site imaginable, I've come to the conclusion that these do not exist. M12 x 1.0, 1.5, 1.75, yeah...but not 1.25. :mad:

Yeah, yeah, "just buy the rad hose adapter for $50 or whatever it costs and cut up your hose." I don't want to do that. Another option is tapping the upper water neck, which I was considering...until I found this.

Earl's fitting, #100199, inline adapter with -6AN male end, -6AN female end, 1/8" NPT port. Costs ~$14.00. I already have Taka lines. So it would be like this, from the water feed port on the block: 14x1.5mm/-6AN adapter --> #100199 inline adapter (with temp sender screwed into the 1/8"NPT port) --> -6AN hose end on the Taka water feed line. It would be right where the coolant comes out of the block so I imagine it would be a pretty accurate reading for the gauge.

Has anyone gone this route? $14 is less than ~$50...

[g6civcx]

I prefer putting the temp sensor in the water passage in the head. That's going to be more accurate than anything you can come up with.

[s15specR]

I put mines on the water passage on the manifold close to the stock temp sender, I just tapped it with a 1/8 NPT tap.

[n240sxfnatic]

Get this shit
Stance Water Neck Adapter Nissan SR20DET (http://www.frsport.com/Stance-Water-Neck-Adapter-Nissan-SR20DET_p_12507.html)
edit: nvmd $14 is a lot less than this

[SHIFT_*grind*]

How about this question: Would the upper water neck be any more accurate than the lower coolant feed line? I see plenty of people tapping the upper water neck for gauges...I'm weighing the two options against each other of buying a $10 tap and drilling/tapping a hole in the water neck, or buying a $14 adapter and just bolting it on in the turbo coolant line.

I prefer putting the temp sensor in the water passage in the head.

Where exactly on the head, if I were standing in front of the car? Would I have to worry about metal shavings getting anywhere they shouldn't, when drilling/tapping?

[idahotuner]

i have a custom steel water neck adapter. it is clean and hidden.

[Flybert]

Best place to put it and cheapest way to do it. Tells you what the water temp coming out of your motor is before it gets cooled by the rad. Just don't tap too deep into it or your temp sender will hit the other side. Take it nice and slow until your happy with the amount of thread your sender goes in.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d56/pandapandared/Img_0323.jpg

[k's_silvia2.0]

^Hey Chris did you tap that or is it a 14 waterneck?

[duffman1278]

Did you check Mcmaster Carr for the adaptor? They usually have ANYTHING imaginable for plumbing and hardware like this.

[Flybert]

It's a tapped s14 water neck. I love it because I rerouted the water to the block so I don't have water going through my turbo. Simplifies things, keeps coolant temps down, and my gt28r has been doing just fine for the last 3 years like this. Another pic to show the rerouted lines.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d56/pandapandared/Img_0322.jpg

[k's_silvia2.0]

It's a tapped s14 water neck. I love it because I rerouted the water to the block so I don't have water going through my turbo. Simplifies things, keeps coolant temps down, and my gt28r has been doing just fine for the last 3 years like this. Another pic to show the rerouted lines.


I did that as well now I just gotta tap my 14 water neck.Thanks Chris!

[drftmark]

wtf.


is that safe?

I mean on all turbos. Say someone with a gt2871r setup or something a little bigger.

I would think you would want to keep the turbo cooled as best as possible.

[k's_silvia2.0]

wtf.


is that safe?

I mean on all turbos. Say someone with a gt2871r setup or something a little bigger.

I would think you would want to keep the turbo cooled as best as possible.

Its safe ive been running my t25 w/HKS actuator @10psi daily now for 4 months with no problem.

[Flybert]

wtf.


is that safe?

I mean on all turbos. Say someone with a gt2871r setup or something a little bigger.

I would think you would want to keep the turbo cooled as best as possible.

Like I said, it's been running for 3 years at 1 to 1.2 bar. I sold my turbo timer a long time ago as well. I've done about 30+ drift events and a few months of daily driving with that setup. Shaft play still feels normal and it's not blowing smoke.

Society Mike was the one who influenced me in to simplifying my setup and running an s14 water neck. He said that a lot of people in japan do the same thing.

I figured since I didn't have an oil cooler, I'd do anything to keep my motor cool at the track. I'd rather replace a cheap t28 than be swapping headgaskets or motors when I overheat. I also think that it prevents localized boiling when the water goes through the turbo so I don't have to bleed my coolant as much.

I have an oil cooler now to help cool the motor down some so I might water cool my turbo if I decide to upgrade turbos, but I wouldn't really be scared to run a gt2871r with no water. The main concern with those turbos is that you get the proper amount of oil in them by running the proper sized restrictor.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Picture:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v245/bigjay00213/Img_0322.jpg

Would the water neck (red circle) be a hotter/more accurate place to take a reading than the area by the green circle?

I wouldn't think so, since they're both coming right off the block, but I don't have much knowledge of coolant passages.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Do you remove the sensor to bleed the coolant?

Also, do you have the holes closed up on the coolant sides of the turbo?

[duffman1278]

^^^^ You can see the bleeder screw in the background, if you look closely. Its still there from what I can see

[Flybert]

Bleeder screw is still there. Coolant holes on turbo are open.

[s15specR]

Anyone know the size of the nut on the defi coolant sensor ?

[Flybert]

Japanese sensors are usually 1/8 NPT

[s15specR]

Japanese sensors are usually 1/8 NPT

Not the actual fitting size but the nut on the sensor that you put a wrench on to tighten it with.

[burnsauto]

Not the actual fitting size but the nut on the sensor that you put a wrench on to tighten it with.

pretty sure its a 10mm...someone double check me.

[mjjstang]

Are these the ones I just sent you? I have the adapters, we should have worked something out, but yah I don't like that hose adapter either, I really like the neck adapter but it is pricey, hope all goes well with your installation, If you have any other Q's you need answered quick, i'm usually by my computer.

[s15specR]

pretty sure its a 10mm...someone double check me.


looks bigger but I cant get to the damn thing to see exactly

[DALAZ_68]

here what im wondering ...cooling...does the motor suck from the lower line and feeds out from the upper...or is it opposite...thats the one question ive been afraid to ask ...

im assuming im right since everyone is suggested to cut the upper hose...

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Are these the ones I just sent you? I have the adapters, we should have worked something out, but yah I don't like that hose adapter either, I really like the neck adapter but it is pricey, hope all goes well with your installation, If you have any other Q's you need answered quick, i'm usually by my computer.

Yep, those are the ones. I figured I could install them in place of the factory sensors with a couple of $10 fittings, but I'm having more trouble than I thought =-\ The oil pressure is no problem, it's the M12x1.25 on the water temp sensor that's a bitch. I'm thinking I'll either tap the upper water neck, or find myself an M12x1.25 plug and drill/tap that to make my own adapter for the stock location.

here what im wondering ...cooling...does the motor suck from the lower line and feeds out from the upper...or is it opposite...thats the one question ive been afraid to ask ...

im assuming im right since everyone is suggested to cut the upper hose...

The lower line (where I circled in green) is the coolant feed for the turbo. So I'm thinking, the way Flybert's running it, it feeds upward into the neck and then out to the left, to the radiator.


Also, for anyone who might consider trying what I suggested in the original post, don't; I realized the water temp sender is too long to thread into an adapter on the -6AN water line.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Another kinda off-topic, but somewhat related question:

Does anyone know if 12mm x 1.25 is a common Nissan thread pitch for the oil pan drain plug?

I saw a suggestion in another thread of pulling an S-chassis oil drain plug, which is 12x1.25, and tapping it for 1/8"NPT to make an adapter to go in place of the stock water temp sensor. The junkyards around here have Nissans...but it's tough to find 240s.

It'd be great if someone could just answer that question, instead of throwing out different suggestions =P I appreciate all the the input, but to be quite honest, I've never drilled/tapped anything before and I'd rather start on a disposable bolt, rather than fucking up the water neck and not being able to drive the car because it leaks.

[drift925]

or you can buy this from me!!!

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/202553-blitz-s13-sr20det-upper-radiator-hose-75-a.html

piece of cake :)

[SHIFT_*grind*]

*sigh*

No.

Anyone else?

[g6civcx]

Does anyone know if 12mm x 1.25 is a common Nissan thread pitch for the oil pan drain plug?

I know.

You never asked if the thread is common. You only asked if anybody knew. Asked and answered :naughty:


Just about every mid 90s and earlier Nissan uses 12mmx1.25 for the oil pan drain plug. Same for most newer Toyotas as well.

Does that answer your question?

[SHIFT_*grind*]

You never asked if the thread is common. You only asked if anybody knew. Asked and answered :naughty:

:squint:

Just about every mid 90s and earlier Nissan uses 12mmx1.25 for the oil pan drain plug. Same for most newer Toyotas as well.

Does that answer your question?

It does indeed. Much thanks :)

[g6civcx]

I can confirm for a fact that the following cars have the same oil pan drain plug. I bought the same magnetic drain plug for all of them.

redtop S13
single cam KA
B13 Sentra SE-R
MR-2 Spyder
Toyota 4Runner and Lexus variants
RAV4

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Cool, I appreciate it. I have a loose SR dump pipe with an M12x1.25 O2 sensor bung, I'll probably just bring that to the junkyard and test the drain bolt from a mid-90s Nissan/Toyota. Except then they might think I'm stealing the dump pipe when I leave... :coolugh:

[s15specR]

there's so many other means to get the temp sensor mounted though, and the ecu uses the factory water temp to control idle IIRC.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

Not from the sensor I'm talking about. There are two right next to each other, one for the ECU and the other for the gauge.

Spending a few bucks to make an adapter to fit an aftermarket sensor in the stock hole is more cost-effective than a $75 piece of radiator hose, or a $55 water neck adapter, or a ~$50 radiator hose adapter, etc etc...and less intrusive (and less risky if I fuck something up) than tapping the water neck or the head.

Though I might tap the head with an NPT port in the future, if it'll end up being more accurate. The stock location should be fine though.