Bigsyke
07-11-2008, 03:23 PM
Im going to post up what I have found works the best. I work in possibly the worst mall in the states, and have walked up on people breaking into my civic. One weekend my car was attempted 3 times, with a total of 1,200 est in damages.
Starting with the basics. Things that dont work, unless the thief is uneducated.
-NRG quick release setup. This has been proven again to be ineffective to most theives, because they could pry the NRG lock off. They do not care about damaging your stuff. They can then phone a buddy to deliver a matching release setup. Or, pry the lock off, and use a special pair of grips, which are widely availible to steer the car (even without powersteering).
-Clubs/autolocks. Clubbusters are becomming common now. You can bend the arm of the autolock and slip it off one of the pedals. The steeringwheel is even easier, pipecutters or a saw. 20seconds. The club and alike are just extra weight, unless your parking for short amounts of time.
-Most kill switches. Most theives can just listen to the relay click, or hear if the fuel pump will prime. If it doesnt, they will know the fuel pump has a kill on that circut. Unfortuneatly, there has been a writeup on here about killing the fuel pump relay. Starter, not to hard to pop the hood and run a wire directly to the starter.
-Lojack. Sorry, but this only works in a few states, and most of us know it doesnt show the exact location of the car. It shows a beacon on the troopers vehicle, and when he/she gets around to it, they might play hunt for red october.
-bestbuy/CC alarm installs. This is just bad, it exposes every critical wire a theif needs to hotwire the car. Gives all sorts of 12v access points to hotwire addition thigns like the fuel pump and what not.
-Slamming your car, or parking in a zone which you might think, prevents a flatbed. You socal guys should know some towtrucks could take your car in 30 seconds, with 3inches of clearance on all sides with new mechanical arm technologies. There was a youtube video showing a towtruck taking a corvette that was wedged between 2 cars all in 19 seconds.
-Ralveco. An exposed kill switch which promotes easy hotwiring.
Things that WORK
-Disable any power lock switch, and use your alarm for unlocking your doors. Prevents a coat hanger from flipping the unlock switch.
-Disable any internal manual door lock switch, and use your alarm again to unlock you out of your car. (most alarms "DEI" will unlock the car when you take the key out of the ignition) This is very critical, because if a theif bends your windows, he can not unlock the door manually. He would have to crawl into the car with the glass broken, while the alarm is going off (glass breakage sensor - if installed).
-Any 2way DEI paging alarm that is a clean, stealthly hidden install. This includes lengthening wires with black wires, and looming all the way up to the dash. If you want to keep your car, i reccommend removign the dash, and looming all of the ignition wires behind the dash with either stainless loom, or 3 layers of regular cable wrap and plenty of layers of electrical tape. Of course you want to do this AFTER you have tested the alarm to make sure its 100% operational. Make sure you leave the blue wire availible to be tapped into for additional sensors. You can place the alarm's brain anywhere not under the dash. If you could place it behind the dash, not accessable at any angle of reach, you may place it there. I also prefer to place them INSIDE the rear seats. Be creative, and make things seem OEM. DO NOT expose any loom or wires. Loom everything into the OEM harnesses and secure them. Make sure you use proper crimped connections, and shrink wrap. even better if you solder. For alarm install diagrams visit THE12VOLT.com Use that as a reference. Ill get some assisting install schematics up.
-Hood pins. I put 2 hood pins, and connected them to the blue wire on alarm's primary harness. This way the theif would have to use both hands to supress the alarms trigger. Works perfectly. The S14 has perfect mounting spots for these.
-DEI 520t and a backup penzio siren. Buy these WHEN you buy the alarm. The alarm is useless without these. An interior siren is 1000x more effective than an external engine bay siren. You could hide these in the vents.
-Preventing access to the hood latch on the front radiator support. Removing grilles will allow a theif to use a screwdriver to unlatch your hood. Then most likely they will begin stripping the car on the spot.
-Locking kill switch. A switch that requires a key to close the circut. Positioned in a place where they cant access the rear of the switch by any means, to close the circut. The theif would have to go directly to the source, all while the internal 120db pezio siren is going off.
-Magnetic switches. You can hide the unit behind carpet, and use a magnet to close the circut. These are nice because only you would know where the switch is, and is 100% hidden.
-dont whore your car out. I see alot of threads about cars getting jacked, when they recently posted up a build thread, but didnt secure the car 1st.
-replace your worn locks. A worn lock is useless, if it gets bad enough, you could use any key to pop it open. Check for cylinder play.
-A good GPS unit with an EWS to page you when the car leaves a set parameter. Another thing i have found that works better than any $30 gps is Verizons chaperone.
-TINT YOUR WINDOWS! I tinted my windows with theft proof tint. Not only will it take a couple more swings to break the glass, but its more difficult to locate any kill switches and looms. I linked my interior lights to a hidden relay switch. Pitch black interior = more difficult.
Another thing ive witnessed are theives driving around parking lots with their subs cranked. Theyre trying to see which cars have alarms. You can adjust the shock sensor on most of the alarms out there. I have mine about 3/4th cranked. The alarm will flag that zone for 30 seconds.
USE THIS WEBSITE FOR REFERENCE. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938 Same concept for any car
http://www.the12volt.com
I will get more up when I return from lunch.....
Starting with the basics. Things that dont work, unless the thief is uneducated.
-NRG quick release setup. This has been proven again to be ineffective to most theives, because they could pry the NRG lock off. They do not care about damaging your stuff. They can then phone a buddy to deliver a matching release setup. Or, pry the lock off, and use a special pair of grips, which are widely availible to steer the car (even without powersteering).
-Clubs/autolocks. Clubbusters are becomming common now. You can bend the arm of the autolock and slip it off one of the pedals. The steeringwheel is even easier, pipecutters or a saw. 20seconds. The club and alike are just extra weight, unless your parking for short amounts of time.
-Most kill switches. Most theives can just listen to the relay click, or hear if the fuel pump will prime. If it doesnt, they will know the fuel pump has a kill on that circut. Unfortuneatly, there has been a writeup on here about killing the fuel pump relay. Starter, not to hard to pop the hood and run a wire directly to the starter.
-Lojack. Sorry, but this only works in a few states, and most of us know it doesnt show the exact location of the car. It shows a beacon on the troopers vehicle, and when he/she gets around to it, they might play hunt for red october.
-bestbuy/CC alarm installs. This is just bad, it exposes every critical wire a theif needs to hotwire the car. Gives all sorts of 12v access points to hotwire addition thigns like the fuel pump and what not.
-Slamming your car, or parking in a zone which you might think, prevents a flatbed. You socal guys should know some towtrucks could take your car in 30 seconds, with 3inches of clearance on all sides with new mechanical arm technologies. There was a youtube video showing a towtruck taking a corvette that was wedged between 2 cars all in 19 seconds.
-Ralveco. An exposed kill switch which promotes easy hotwiring.
Things that WORK
-Disable any power lock switch, and use your alarm for unlocking your doors. Prevents a coat hanger from flipping the unlock switch.
-Disable any internal manual door lock switch, and use your alarm again to unlock you out of your car. (most alarms "DEI" will unlock the car when you take the key out of the ignition) This is very critical, because if a theif bends your windows, he can not unlock the door manually. He would have to crawl into the car with the glass broken, while the alarm is going off (glass breakage sensor - if installed).
-Any 2way DEI paging alarm that is a clean, stealthly hidden install. This includes lengthening wires with black wires, and looming all the way up to the dash. If you want to keep your car, i reccommend removign the dash, and looming all of the ignition wires behind the dash with either stainless loom, or 3 layers of regular cable wrap and plenty of layers of electrical tape. Of course you want to do this AFTER you have tested the alarm to make sure its 100% operational. Make sure you leave the blue wire availible to be tapped into for additional sensors. You can place the alarm's brain anywhere not under the dash. If you could place it behind the dash, not accessable at any angle of reach, you may place it there. I also prefer to place them INSIDE the rear seats. Be creative, and make things seem OEM. DO NOT expose any loom or wires. Loom everything into the OEM harnesses and secure them. Make sure you use proper crimped connections, and shrink wrap. even better if you solder. For alarm install diagrams visit THE12VOLT.com Use that as a reference. Ill get some assisting install schematics up.
-Hood pins. I put 2 hood pins, and connected them to the blue wire on alarm's primary harness. This way the theif would have to use both hands to supress the alarms trigger. Works perfectly. The S14 has perfect mounting spots for these.
-DEI 520t and a backup penzio siren. Buy these WHEN you buy the alarm. The alarm is useless without these. An interior siren is 1000x more effective than an external engine bay siren. You could hide these in the vents.
-Preventing access to the hood latch on the front radiator support. Removing grilles will allow a theif to use a screwdriver to unlatch your hood. Then most likely they will begin stripping the car on the spot.
-Locking kill switch. A switch that requires a key to close the circut. Positioned in a place where they cant access the rear of the switch by any means, to close the circut. The theif would have to go directly to the source, all while the internal 120db pezio siren is going off.
-Magnetic switches. You can hide the unit behind carpet, and use a magnet to close the circut. These are nice because only you would know where the switch is, and is 100% hidden.
-dont whore your car out. I see alot of threads about cars getting jacked, when they recently posted up a build thread, but didnt secure the car 1st.
-replace your worn locks. A worn lock is useless, if it gets bad enough, you could use any key to pop it open. Check for cylinder play.
-A good GPS unit with an EWS to page you when the car leaves a set parameter. Another thing i have found that works better than any $30 gps is Verizons chaperone.
-TINT YOUR WINDOWS! I tinted my windows with theft proof tint. Not only will it take a couple more swings to break the glass, but its more difficult to locate any kill switches and looms. I linked my interior lights to a hidden relay switch. Pitch black interior = more difficult.
Another thing ive witnessed are theives driving around parking lots with their subs cranked. Theyre trying to see which cars have alarms. You can adjust the shock sensor on most of the alarms out there. I have mine about 3/4th cranked. The alarm will flag that zone for 30 seconds.
USE THIS WEBSITE FOR REFERENCE. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1794938 Same concept for any car
http://www.the12volt.com
I will get more up when I return from lunch.....