Help Ka-t Gods. Stalling Problem! Blow Through Did Not Help. Sorta.

[beatd]

First off my setup is Garrett T25, FMIC, Greddy atmospheric BOV, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, walbro 255, 370cc, emance tune, and safc1 for fine tuning.


First off i tried to do draw through and it always started fine but i had very erradict idle and after driving it and coming to a stop i try to coast to a stop by put it in nuetral and the rpm would slowly go down and bounce around 300 to 400 rpm then just give up and die. THE SAFC DEC AIR SETTINGS DID NOT HELP. i tried it so many times but no luck.

So i decided to go blow through since i heard it will help with all of that. Finally i finished going blow through and when i started it everything felt like normal NA and i drove it around and coasting to a stop and it felt normal no stalling or bouncing idle so i thought my problem was solved, but after driving around some more and when i try to coast to a stop again it would stall about 50% of the time instead of 100% from draw through.

What could my problem be? Should i turn off the DEC AIR settings on the safc now that i'm blow through or try to adjust it still? Please help i want to start driving my baby agian instead of my DD honda fit sport.
P.s. I'm sorry if my grammar, spelling, and description is all out of wack.

[frosti108]

yes i would try turning off the dec air settings and just letting the emance tune do its job. im running an emance tune and just totally turned off the afc corrections for now and its great./ im running blow through as well. are you running a wideband o2?

[beatd]

yes i would try turning off the dec air settings and just letting the emance tune do its job. im running an emance tune and just totally turned off the afc corrections for now and its great./ im running blow through as well. are you running a wideband o2?
yea i turned off all the afc corrections, but i'm not running a wideband yet. broke :mad:. i'll turn off the dec settings and see today if it works better with it off.

[hunter8411]

Did you try adjusting your BOV. I just went KA-T myself, and I was having the same issue with the car stalling everytime I let off the gas. I just adjusted my BOV because it was tightened too much, and would not open right. That resolved my issue, as soon as I loosened it and adjusted it properly I no longer had the stalling issue. Just something to give a shot at.

Hope that helps.

[beatd]

the bov is tighten down. but how do i adjust it so it would operate right? should it be on the border of being loose/tight?

[hunter8411]

With the greddy type, there is a a nut and rod on the top that takes a alan wrench to tighten/loosen. So you loosen the nut at the top, then loosen up the rod.

[BeasT_MoDe]

Just run a Blow through MAF setup. Your BOV is releasing metered air out into the atmosphere, causing your car to run rich and stall out. Just simply put your MAF on your coldpipe and your BOV on the hotpipe.

[awesomenick]

How is your IACV hooked up?

[beatd]

Just run a Blow through MAF setup. Your BOV is releasing metered air out into the atmosphere, causing your car to run rich and stall out. Just simply put your MAF on your coldpipe and your BOV on the hotpipe.
i am running a blow through setup.

How is your IACV hooked up?

its hooked up to the cold pipe

[awesomenick]

So, it sees boost? I was under the impression that you had to hook it up to the intake tube, rather than the charge piping. Maybe try that.

[BenArtM80]

I don't think it's the IACV location(at idle there isn't any boost, so it should be seeing a regular vacuum). I'ts been awhile since I had my KA with the blow-through setup and SAFC, but my IACV ran off of the cold side as well without any issues. I didn't have anything except the boost gauge/wastegate T-line running off of the intake (between air filter and turbo).

do you have a wideband O2 sensor? what are your A/F readings at idle when it is dying? Additionally, what is your idle when it isn't dying? Have you tried opening the IACV a little to raise your idle some?

[silnismo]

This same problem happened to my rb20 s13, it turned out to be IACV related.

had the same symtoms too.

GL, gettin your car to run right is such an headache.

[awesomenick]

IACV could still be the problem. I realize the turbo isn't making boost at idle, or low throttle. But if the BOV isn't letting all of the pressurized air quickly enough the IACV might not get vacuum soon enough. With the IACV hooked up to the intake tube you get vacuum all the time. That's where mine was hooked up at least, and it idled perfectly fine.

[beatd]

i'm going to try to raise the idle up a bit and see if that works. also i'm going to check for any boost leaks or vacuum leaks. anyone got advice on how to check for vacuum leaks?

[S14DB]

IACV could still be the problem. I realize the turbo isn't making boost at idle, or low throttle. But if the BOV isn't letting all of the pressurized air quickly enough the IACV might not get vacuum soon enough. With the IACV hooked up to the intake tube you get vacuum all the time. That's where mine was hooked up at least, and it idled perfectly fine.

Where did you come up with this logic?

[awesomenick]

Whoa. Thanks S14DB, I was going off of what somebody else told me. I just read up on it and I was way off. Damn, I feel like an ass. :eek3:

[louisdaboois]

anyone got advice on how to check for vacuum leaks?

simple, home depot boost/vacuum leak tester.

get a coupler with an ID the same as the OD of the intake side of the turbo. also, get a cap that fits inside the coupler as well. drill the top of the cap and push in a tire valve stem. and glue it in place so no air can leak out. using hose clamps tighten the cap on one side of the coupler with the tire valve sticking out, then tighten the other side of the coupler onto the intake side of the turbo (assuming you have already taken the intake piping off) then run pressurized air through the system, with the car off. check your boost gauge to and build up at least the amount of pressure you'd run at full boost. air should bleed off 1psi about every 3-5 secs.

to help pinpoint a leak, spray soapy water around the couplers, intake mani, essentially everything that would be exposed to vacuum/boost. and see where it bubbles.

btw dont be an idiot and start the car while pressure is still in the system. or suck in a bag of sand through the intake, tryin to port and polish the head. lol.

[silnismo]

simple, home depot boost/vacuum leak tester.

get a coupler with an ID the same as the OD of the intake side of the turbo. also, get a cap that fits inside the coupler as well. drill the top of the cap and push in a tire valve stem. and glue it in place so no air can leak out. using hose clamps tighten the cap on one side of the coupler with the tire valve sticking out, then tighten the other side of the coupler onto the intake side of the turbo (assuming you have already taken the intake piping off) then run pressurized air through the system, with the car off. check your boost gauge to and build up at least the amount of pressure you'd run at full boost. air should bleed off 1psi about every 3-5 secs.

to help pinpoint a leak, spray soapy water around the couplers, intake mani, essentially everything that would be exposed to vacuum/boost. and see where it bubbles.

btw dont be an idiot and start the car while pressure is still in the system. or suck in a bag of sand through the intake, tryin to port and polish the head. lol.

^^werd, simplest and most effective way.