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sr20alex
07-03-2008, 03:36 PM
Well i flushed out my radiator yesterday when we put in the coolant at night time. We took it for a drive it was working perfectly fine with the AC on also. Today i was driving to school and it started to heat up again so i refilled my coolant tank and checked the radiator everything was filled up. Then took another drive and it started to over heat.

Any ideas?

norbac
07-03-2008, 04:07 PM
bubbles left in the system? did you use the air bleed valve when flushing? could be a sensor too? not sure how to check that tho...

sr20alex
07-03-2008, 04:09 PM
bubbles left in the system? did you use the air bleed valve when flushing? could be a sensor too? not sure how to check that tho...

Im not exactly sure how to bleed the system but i jacked the car up and started the car people said that get rid of the bubbles. But what strange was it was perfect at night time even with the AC on and we kept the rpm at 4.5k for like a minute or 2 did not show any sign of over heating.

renegade_ewok
07-03-2008, 04:14 PM
Is this on SR or KA?

There should be a screw on the right side (SR) or left side (KA) on the water neck. Jack up the car and undo the screw 90% of the way and start the car from cold. Let it run and let the thermostat open once or twice. As soon as you see liquid around the edge of the screw (don't undo it all the way or it will shoot all over the place) screw it back down. I did it like this and it was perfect the first time the thermostat opened.

norbac
07-03-2008, 04:16 PM
yah, what he said, make sure to fully bleed the system, no air bubbles, use that air relief valve, hope that would be it

s13 @ fullboost
07-03-2008, 04:19 PM
could also be a bad thermostat

sr20alex
07-03-2008, 05:26 PM
yah, what he said, make sure to fully bleed the system, no air bubbles, use that air relief valve, hope that would be it


This will be on a KA where is the air relief valve? To do this would i have to drain the coolant out of my car? I checked the FSM but i cant find it.

norbac
07-03-2008, 05:31 PM
right above where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine, its a screw looking thing, technically it would be best to flush out, but you can try to loosen the screw, open your radiator cap, fill it with fluid until the relief valves spills out coolant just a little, screw the air relief valve, fill up more coolant...

Fred Allen Burge
07-03-2008, 05:40 PM
Look in the FSM again, there's a very important step you must do and nobody has mentioned it yet. I believe the procedure is in the Maintenance section of the FSM. I could tell it to you but you'll learn more by finding it yourself.

Fred

wangan_cruiser
07-03-2008, 05:45 PM
Well i flushed out my radiator yesterday when we put in the coolant at night time. We took it for a drive it was working perfectly fine with the AC on also. Today i was driving to school and it started to heat up again so i refilled my coolant tank and checked the radiator everything was filled up. Then took another drive and it started to over heat.

Any ideas?

jack the car as high as you can then open the radiator filler cap then start the car for 15 mins. let all the bubbles come out from the radiator fill. keep filling the radiator.




This will be on a KA where is the air relief valve? To do this would i have to drain the coolant out of my car? I checked the FSM but i cant find it.

check the upper coolant neck. you should see a bolt on the top.

norbac
07-03-2008, 05:45 PM
i dont have a real service manual, just one of those craptastic pep boys version, chiltons, and it shares info with a stanza, lets see, does he need to set the temp, heater to hot? or he needs to shake the car around to get some of the trapped air out? its like a pop quiz, haha

vvtisupra
07-03-2008, 05:47 PM
turn the heater on not the A/C

SuicidnS13
07-03-2008, 05:48 PM
Basic rules to bleeding a system-

Jack front of car up.
Leave rad cap off
Open bleed screw
turn heat on
turn car on
wait till bubbles go away....


**Please correct me if I am wrong on any of the steps here**

wangan_cruiser
07-03-2008, 05:48 PM
i dont have a real service manual, just one of those craptastic pep boys version, chiltons, and it shares info with a stanza, lets see, does he need to set the temp, heater to hot? or he needs to shake the car around to get some of the trapped air out? its like a pop quiz, haha



this topic has been covered a lot of times. should be easy to find the answers.

sr20alex
07-03-2008, 05:56 PM
Look in the FSM again, there's a very important step you must do and nobody has mentioned it yet. I believe the procedure is in the Maintenance section of the FSM. I could tell it to you but you'll learn more by finding it yourself.

Fred

I did check the FSM and it doesnt say. I downloaded it off nico but anyways i found it just. Let me go try it out.

*Edit* Well i did it and it kinda helped out the engine i was able to go for a bit longer but i was going kind of fast. Will check back in once the car cools down and i'll drive around for a bit more.

lflkajfj12123
07-03-2008, 06:43 PM
didn't read the thread but you probably need to

jack the front end up

and run the heater

jeprokz
07-03-2008, 11:41 PM
I had the same problem. To make it worse, the bleeder screw broke. It was stuck in there. Anyways, try squeezing the radiator hoses , bottom and top, and the heater hoses while the car is jacked up. If you try it with the engine running, be careful of the fan. Bubbles will come out, keep filling with coolant/h20 mixture. You dont' want the bubbles. I had to repeat this process at least a 10 times. Make sure the bottom radiator hose gets hot, so you know the thermostat works. User water wetter. Good luck.

r6_240sx
07-04-2008, 12:15 AM
If car was fine before you flushed, chances are yeah you need to bleed system. How long did you bleed for? Usually takes awhile. Lots of methods posted on here are overkill.

Don't take off your radiator cap, start your car, turn on heater full blast, take bleed valve off, put a rag around the hole so you don't have a mess and just leave that shit running.

It's hard to eyeball if there's no more bubbles left, but if car temp stabilizes ur good.
If not repeat.

sr20alex
07-04-2008, 12:42 AM
If car was fine before you flushed, chances are yeah you need to bleed system. How long did you bleed for? Usually takes awhile. Lots of methods posted on here are overkill.

Don't take off your radiator cap, start your car, turn on heater full blast, take bleed valve off, put a rag around the hole so you don't have a mess and just leave that shit running.

It's hard to eyeball if there's no more bubbles left, but if car temp stabilizes ur good.
If not repeat.

So i would take off the Air relif Valve, leave the cap ON and turn the car on and blast the heater, once it starts to leak out coolant then all the air pockets will be out of the radiator correct?

Oo_Skyline_oO
07-04-2008, 01:10 AM
if your motor is still fan-clutched, and it heats up mostly on idle, then you've got a bad fan clutch, its not spinning fast enough.

Mangudai
08-01-2008, 08:57 PM
So i would take off the Air relif Valve, leave the cap ON and turn the car on and blast the heater, once it starts to leak out coolant then all the air pockets will be out of the radiator correct?

Can someone confirm? Want to make sure before I attempt my first flush next week.

Mangudai
08-17-2008, 03:00 PM
Can someone confirm? Want to make sure before I attempt my first flush next week.


Bump to the top, hope no one minds.

blackrms13
08-17-2008, 04:14 PM
take the cap off, heater on full blast on heat

Mangudai
08-17-2008, 09:12 PM
take the cap off, heater on full blast on heat


Thanks. One last thing, when I first unscrewed the drain plug for the radiator to let the coolant out I forgot to turn the car onto the on position and turn the heater on. Should I redo this step?

blackrms13
08-17-2008, 10:00 PM
Thanks. One last thing, when I first unscrewed the drain plug for the radiator to let the coolant out I forgot to turn the car onto the on position and turn the heater on. Should I redo this step?
u dont take out the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator

take out the bleeder screw on the intake manifold, take off the radiator cap, jack the front of the car as high up as u can or just find a steep hill
start up the car, let the engine run with heater on full blast on heat, let the engine warm up to open up the thermostat

fill the coolant from the radiator neck and rev engine as necessary to get all the bubbles out

Mangudai
08-17-2008, 11:01 PM
I wanted to drain all the coolant out first then add distilled water to flush out the system? I think im confused.

blackrms13
08-18-2008, 12:43 AM
just search around, theres plenty of more detailed write up on how to do flush or bleed the air out

or get the FSM and read that

Mangudai
08-18-2008, 07:28 AM
Alright. Should I put the coolant back into the radiator?

farancisfoe
07-27-2011, 03:58 AM
Maybe you should flushed your radiator, I encounter also a problem like that especially in summer because my deposit buildup clog the cooling system and lead my engine overheating that leaves me dead on the highway. (it sucks):bash:
Well my friend suggest me to flushed it. I found this site hope it will help you:
How to flush your radiator (http://www.cardealexpert.com/news-information/the-expert-explains/how-to-flush-your-radiator/)

obsolete
07-27-2011, 09:01 AM
awesome 1st post

JKL1031
08-06-2011, 09:50 PM
I just tried to install my thermostat on my new used engine today. it has holes drilled in it to prevent this. I had no luck, i think that hoe is bad, so im trying tomorrow with a new one.

just a heads up, i got my proport water guage installed with peak warning. I set my warning at about 210F. I was reaching 200-210, and the hand on the OEM gauge had yet to budge..

joefresh
08-06-2011, 10:11 PM
jack up car
open air bleed and fill radiator until water comes out of the air bleeder, tighten valve.
put a funnel in your radiator and run the car with the heater on
5min at 3k rpm. top off and cap radiator. fuck ka24!!

JKL1031
08-07-2011, 05:50 PM
^yep got it this time. Last time I thought I cud fill and run because of the holes. I'm still hovering at 180 as I was w/o the tstat. So it doesn't run cooler w/o one in the long run. I hypothesized and hoped cooler having a cooler bottom hose from the water staying in the rad longer since the tstat is slowig flow, but I was wrong.

JKL1031
08-07-2011, 05:54 PM
Mann who cares. This is from 08..

SnakeKack
08-07-2011, 06:01 PM
^^^^^^^^lol