Blitz BOV Tuning

[LexusRules]

hey guys my car is stalling when i come to a stop, i think its a mixture of my bad throw out bearing, bad clutch, and bad tuning of bov. Any ideas how its set from the factory and how to adjust it? i have an S14 T28. Thanks!

[S13CRAVE]

IIRC you could be stalling because you don't have your BOV recirculated to the intake(I'm just assuming thats what you have done).  After the air goes through the MAFS it sends a signal to the ECU to send the appropriate amount of fuel.  If you are letting some of that air out then you engine will run really rich at idle and stall.  Try recirculating the air given off from the BOV back into your intake.  The ppshhhh sound wont be as loud but at least you wont stall at idle.  Hope that helps.

~Ian

[CartuneRS]

you can tighten the bov.  its pretty much by feel.  also, check your check valve.  its the little plastic device thats in between the fat vacuum line that goes in the brake booster.

[LexusRules]

how do you check that?

i tightened the bov a lot the car still sputters and dies i think its lack of fuel or a sticky FPR.. any ideas? here are videos:

revving from outside:

www.soundofturbo.com/srrev.avi

when shes running smooth:

www.soundofturbo.com/sridle.avi

when shes dying:

www.soundofturbo.com/srdie.avi

[RBSileighty]

I would have to agree with S13CRAVE.  A good way to fix it, if you are venting to the atmosphere, is to run some sort of air fuel controller.  That will allow you to control the mixture at idle and it won't cut out.  My 2 cents.

[RedSuns]

just make sure the BOV is closed at idle....i ran into the same problem on my S14 SR.....i have a re-circl valve but i am using it as an open atmoshpere set-up....just play with your BOV and it will fix the problem

[uiuc240]

Ready for an archive-ready answer?:

The SR20 can be configured to run just fine with an open-air BOV. Here's how:

1. Install BOV and check to make sure that ALL clamps and seals are tight.
2. Connect 7/32" (min.) vacuum hose from line on top right of throttle body to the nipple on the BOV.
3. Tighten the BOV adjustment screw almost all the way down.
4. Start car, and warm it up...do this until the idle steadies out at 750-800 rpm.
5. Once at "normal" idle, loosen screw until you can JUST begin to feel airflow come out of the BOV.
6. Tighten down 1/4-1/2 turn (shutting off airflow at idle), and install a locknut on the setscrew.
7. Drive car and see how the response is off boost.
8. If it's not opening soon enough (too much chatter), then open it a bit. If it's opening too much (bleeding off boost at partial throttle for example), tighten it.

Got it? This is very simple. Should take 10 minutes to get it tuned perfectly. Then, like the guy on TV "Set it, and Forget it".

Eric

P.S. &nbsp;You are getting some noticeable blowby (oil)...have you tracked that down yet? &nbsp;Looks like turbo seals or valve seals to me, dude. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':('>

[CartuneRS]

i just remembered something...

if this is one of the old blitz super sound bov, the top washer (where the spring rests) has a tendency to flip over at blow-off. &nbsp;you can check it by opening the housing. &nbsp;you will need a snap-ring tool for that.

if its not inverted or if you have the newer one, tighten it all the way and try and see if its going to stall again. &nbsp;if it does, its not your bov.

finally, the easiest way to check the check valve is to swap it with someone's. &nbsp;or you can go by the book and blow air into either one of the openings. &nbsp;you should have difficulty on 1 side.

[LexusRules]

Thanks man! i posted but i guess it was deleated since the new site, which looks really nice btw.

Thx for blitz bov tuning i will definatly do it right away!

I dont think its just my bov thats keeping me from idling, my fuel pump only pushed out 20psi of presure so im getting a walbro for x-mas.. until then i guess the car will run lean and the injectors will let gasoline pretty much drip not mist into the manifold :o :(

thats keeping the car from idling until warm me thinks.

Also we adjusted the timing which helped a lot, and the mafs was too close to the turbo so i put that extension pipe thing that comes with the engine. It was causing false readings and really unsmooth engine behaviour.

I will definatly tune the blitz bov as soon as i fix the fuel pump problem. Until then i dont really want to touch anything...

Lastly, My 180sx gauge cluster (the 7500rpm tach limit one) is kinda messed. I re-wired the wires at the ECU, like it says on HT, and i connected the cluster proporly but only the little lights work and the tickers / high beam works. And the fuel gauge. Some lights are burnt out (which i replaced and they still didnt work) and the water temp, speedo, tach doesn't work. Im thinking its a faulty cluster but did i just miss something really basic? i put all 3 plugs in and they only can go in one way.

Thanks!