View Full Version : Coilover Questions
S13CRAVE
12-13-2002, 09:46 PM
Hey everyone, I was just wondering if I got full coilovers(JIC FLT-A2 for example) would I need anything else that doesn't come with them to install? Also, are the JIC FLT-A2 height and dampening adjustable? Lastly, if anyone has these, how do you like them and did you have any installation problems?
I searched and read about clearance issues with coilovers but I won't be using really wide wheels so this won't be an issue.
Sorry, I am new to the whole suspension thing but I am planning to save up for a good set of coilovers and do it right(keep in mind it wont be for a while, I have a CA swap coming soon).
Thanks~!
~Ian
AKADriver
12-13-2002, 10:56 PM
Yes, the FLT-A2 is height and dampening adjustable.
gschroeder78
12-13-2002, 11:06 PM
They should also come with everything you need. Even pre-assembled I think.
Kind of off topic but how do the ground control coilover conversion things work? I don't really get how they attach to your shocks in a secure way.
Only thing I would recommend would be some Rear upper control arms so you waste your rear tires because of the evil camber you get with coilovers. You figure a average pair of rear tires are about 150-200$ and Rear upper control arms are about 150-340$. So if you have nice tires invest in a set to fix the rear camber. Otherwise learn first hand how bad the camber will effect the tires, fix it, then get new tires and rear upper control arms.
As for the GC coils, they will sit like any other spring but they will have adjustable perches that allow for height adjustment. I dont think ive ever heard of problems with these type of adjustable coils with any of these types of coils, even such brands as dropzone...
azian21485
12-13-2002, 11:21 PM
how much are u planning to drop? depending if ur getting a very low drop u mite need a camber kit if u want to fix camber
S13CRAVE
12-13-2002, 11:31 PM
would i need adjustable rear upper control arms and camber correction kit? Sorry for the bad question, but like i said, i'm new to the suspension stuff.
Thanks!
Ian
AKADriver
12-13-2002, 11:43 PM
The question is how far you plan to lower and how will the car be driven?
If you don't plan to drop the car any further than typical lowering springs would drop, then it's no problem. If you want to slam it into the weeds, then adjustable camber is a must. The FLT-A2 has camber adjustment built into the fronts (no need for a front "camber kit"), but you'll still need the adjustable upper arms for the rear.
The more street driving you do the more conservative you should be with camber, as a general rule.
S13CRAVE
12-13-2002, 11:55 PM
I will be dropping it a good amount but not to the ground(I dont like the air bags look, nor would I want others to think I was into that stuff). It isn't a big deal since I'm no where near ready to buy them but once I do, I will check out how much tire wear I am getting before I go and spend more on something that may not even be neccessary. Thanks guys. Anybody here have the FLT-A2s?
Thanks!
~Ian
AKADriver
12-14-2002, 12:10 AM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (gschroeder78 @ Dec. 14 2002,12:06)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Kind of off topic but how do the ground control coilover conversion things work? I don't really get how they attach to your shocks in a secure way.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Spring tension. The spring presses against the lower spring seat and threaded sleeve, which simply sits on top of the original spring perch.
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/september01/images/gc22.jpg
This is a B14 Sentra install, but the concept is the same for the 240SX.
azian21485
12-14-2002, 12:15 AM
wat's a good amount to u? theres a veryveryvery good faq on suspension tuning and how they work at superhonda.com (yes it's honda) but i'll copy and paste the part about camber
"Wow, I didnt know that how you lowered your car was this important. Are there any other adverse effects that I should be aware of?
Yes, there are. one of the first things is what is called negative camber. As you drop your car lower and lower, your tires angle in towards your car causing wear. The larger the drop the more the camber. The effect is like this if you were looking at a car head on
/=====\
--
When will I get camber, is it a problem?
Yes and no. Negative camber occurs anytime you change the suspension geometry with springs / struts to make the car sit lower. Usually, a drop above 2" is not affected that much by camber. But you will notice it as you drive harder. The most noticable problem is that the inside of your tires wear.
--
Is there any way to prevent problems like negative camber?
YES! the best and most effective way is to keep your car in allignment and to rotate your tires every 3000-5000 miles. But, if its becoming a terrible problem for you, you can use a camber correction kit. A popular one is Ingalls. Also the rear camber can be corrected with washers on the control arm bolt on MOST hondas, A nice alternative to an expensive kit.
--
Should I get a camber kit???
Wait until you lower your car and get an allignment printout. If the camber reading is within .2-.5 degrees of the stock spec (generally 1.0 to -1.0) then asess your need by looking or the next time you rotate your tires. If its past negative 1.5, then it might be a serious thought to get a camber kit.
--
Ok, I decided I need one, Are there problems with camber kits?
Sometimes, on a few Hondas, people have problems with the kits affecting their control arms. I personally have delt with that problem on my accord. I shaved off a tiny bit of my fender well lip, and a little bit of my control arm. So, If you need to fix the camber problem, there may be more than just a camber kit that you have to add, you may have to move something or change it in a small way to make the kit work to its full effectiveness. That is a bridge that every person must cross when they come to it."
this was from the faq part...but if u want to get the basics of how suspension and all that work i suggest u read it at superhonda.com in the suspension forum...it's not too in depth but not too broad either...it helped me alot atleast =)
gschroeder78
12-14-2002, 12:16 AM
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (AKADriver @ Dec. 14 2002,12:10)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (gschroeder78 @ Dec. 14 2002,12<!--emo&<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Kind of off topic but how do the ground control coilover conversion things work? I don't really get how they attach to your shocks in a secure way.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Spring tension. The spring presses against the lower spring seat and threaded sleeve, which simply sits on top of the original spring perch.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Ahh I see. Wasn't sure if the sleeve would sit flush against the perch since normally the spring rests in the groove around the outside. Cool thanks for the knowledge guys.
Garrett
a very straightforward install, as long as you have basic hand tools and a general sense of what each suspension piece is and where it should go.
Mine didn't come with instructions, and it took me a good 2 nights to get to completely in, but that's because I'm retarded. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
Just unbolt your old setup (DO NOT take springs out of the perches, leave the old suspension stuff in tact) and replace it with the new setup!
If you go this route and have any install questions, feel free to ask us more questions.
S13CRAVE
12-14-2002, 11:53 AM
azian-thanks, that was a good bit of info. I knew some of it but that helps a good deal, thanks.
adey-so you have these? i took my whole engine apart by myself so I don't think i'll have too much trouble once I go this route. how do you like you setup? you have any pics?
Thanks again!
~Ian
Yep, I decided to go the FLT-A2 route, and yes, I have some pics... <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>
http://www.bridgejumpers.org/cars/my_240_nov_17_02_sml.jpg
http://www.bridgejumpers.org/wtf/jic_coilovers_1.jpg
I have a few others if interested, but I think this gives a pretty good idea of the product/drop.
I'm running 8/6 springs, but am considering moving up to 8/7. I don't think I necessarily need the 7 out back, but it may be nice in the future.
So far I'm more than pleased with the coilovers; I can definitely feel every 2 clicks of difference, but haven't yet tried adjusting just 1 click at a time.
Fit and finish is top notch, and the ride is surprisingly compliant even on LA roads. That is, when it's set at 0/0 (max is 16/16). A very good product.
edit: the photo of my car above is with 205/55/15. The gap would be smaller if you had 205/60 or similar... also, you can raise/lower the car without adjusting piston travel; I just leave it at slightly higher becuase there's a huge dip outside my apartment where I'd otherwise scrape my undercarriage to heck.
S13CRAVE
12-14-2002, 09:34 PM
looks awesome. do you have any more pics like of the side maybe? where did you get your JICs from and what did you pay?
Its funny how we both have red fastbacks and have/want FLT-A2s, <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'>
thanks!
~Ian
I think I do have some side shots, let me look around for you...
and BTW, my fastback isn't all red... right now it's red with a blue driver side fender and headlight cover...
but it will soon be red with a blue drivers side fender, black passengers side fender, black front bumper, and black hood... haha... anyway. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> It's one helluva boro machine.
http://www.bridgejumpers.org/cars/my_240_willow_sml.jpg
Sorry, that's the closest that I have of a straight side-on shot. At this point (in this photo) I had raised the rear a few mm (1/2cm or so) as a sort of DIY corner weighting beause the rear of our cars are lighter than the front. especially with a semi-stripped interior! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>
See PM for info reg. my 'source'. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>
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