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View Full Version : Installing a Nismo LSD (Z33)


MrWhite
06-18-2008, 05:09 PM
I don´t know if this is an old topic, but I couldn´t find anything on the net about this before doing it myself. Installing a Nismo LSD is a lot easier than one would think (this is how I did it yesterday).

1. Remove the whole diff housing from the car:
- Half-shafts 14mm wrenches (remember how the bolts sat)
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/halfshaft.jpg

- Main-shaft 17mm wrenches (remember how the bolts sat and mark the position of the shaft toward the diff)
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/main_shaft.jpg

- ABS sensors 12mm wrench
- Vent (small on top of diff, the end is "clicked" into the top of the subframe)
- Let the flanges stay on.
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/empty.jpg


2. Empty the oil and remove the flanges (use something like a plastic hammer or similar to knock these out)
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/out_drain.jpg

3. Remove back cover (14mm electric wrenck on "hammer" setting worked great)
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/opened.jpg


4. Before next step - KEEP AN EYE ON THE SIDE RACES when you do this:
- Measure the backlash / play so you have a reference value to compare with later (write it down!).
- MARK the bearing holders (which goes on which side and how they were mounted - take a pic to be SURE.
- Remove the bearing holders (if I remember right these were 16mm and the electric wrench on hammer setting worked fine again).
- Use a back hammer (word?) to get the old pumpkin out.
- Put the side races in separate bags, mark them "tooth side of gear" resp "back side of gear"

*** HERE YOU HAVE SPENT APPR 1 HOUR depending on how quick you were.
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/old_pumpkin.jpg


5. Remove all scraps from the old fluid gasket on the back of the housing and the back cover.
- If you have an industrial wash machine, clean the housing and the back cover.
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/wash.jpg


While the housing is being cleaned do this.

6. Remove the main gear from the pumpkin and DISCARD the old bolts. Use a strong electric wrench tool on hammer setting. Clean the bolt holes/threads on the back of the gear THOROUGHLY.
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/gear.jpg

7. Pick the new pumpkin up out of the box (the Nismo GT LSD). If you are happy with 1,5-way, let it be, if not, see manual for how to make it a 2-way.
- Mount the big gear on the new pumpkin using NEW bolts and loctite. Use a tiny bit rust-preventive oil on the seating/bearing end of the bolt head - but make sure it does NOT go onto the threads!! Be sure to tighten diagonally and according to specified torque. Make sure to mark the bolt heads so you don´t miss tightening any of the bolts.
- Re-tighten, again diagonally. Mark again.

8. Mount the new ball bearings to the pumpkin. Place the pumpkin so you have the axis vertical, lay the bearing on with a gentle tap. Use a heater gun (that very hot hairdryer style thing) to heat up the bearing and then gently knock the bearing all the way down on the tap using some sort of perfectly sized socket. Do on both sides.
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/ready.jpg

******** HERE YOU HAVE SPENT APPR 2,5 HOURS TOTAL.

9. Replace the seals on each side of the housing with new ones (just pull the old ones out).

10. Apply some differential oil on the bearings. Put the bearing covers over the bearings. Get the side races and make sure you put them in on the same side as before.

11. Squeeze the pumpkin into the housing (gently - might have to use a plastic hammer to get it in place - but as I said - be gentle!). Also while doing this make sure the gear is in a position where it matches the pinion gear so you´re not trying to force the pumpkin in tooth to tooth.

12. Mount the bearing holders (remember to check the marks - or pics so you put them on the right way and right side) and tighten bolts to specified torque.

13. Measure back-lash (0,1-0,15mm according to Nismo GT L.S.D. manual) and check gear contact.

14. Mount back cover on housing using fluid gasket. Tighten bolts to speficied torque.
- Also mount the drain plug with a new gasket (spec'd torque).

15. Put the whole diff back into the car.
- Put the NEW left flange into the diff, be careful with the seal (they look the same on both sides - DO NOT USE THE OLD ONES!!).
- Mount the left half-shaft to flange and tighten bolts
- Mount the left side ABS sensor and tighten bolt
- Mount the main shaft and tighten bolts
- Attach the vent hose to the subframe
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/adjust_preload.jpg

16. Pull the handbrake really hard and put the car into 1st gear. Adjust the pre-load you want using a 19mm box socket that goes in through the right flange hole. Be very gentle, it does NOT take a lot of force, it´s just a gentle resistance.

17. Mount the right side flange (be careful with the seal).
- Mount the right half-shaft to the flange and tighten bolts.
- Mount the right side ABS sensor and tighten bolt.
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/done.jpg


18. Remove the oil filler plug and fill oil until it flows over.

19. Mount filler plug using the new gasket.

******** NOW YOU HAVE SPENT ABOUT 3,5 HOURS ************

The difference from the stock VLSD and the Nismo GT LSD, 1,5-way at the 100% setting is like day and night.

I chose to go with the 1,5-way setting since this is my "Daily drifter". The diff really locks - no more one-wheel spins and it is VERY VERY quiet. Only a gentle jerk SOMETIMES when I park the car or drive a tight right at an intersection. I RECOMMEND THIS DIFF!! (I´ll be back with drift comments after ASB4 next weekend).
http://www.car-engineering.se/350z/car_done.jpg

JohnJohn86
06-18-2008, 05:18 PM
May be you are good but it took me and my friend whole morning just to take the diff out using floor jacks and jack stands.

Nice write up, need pictures!

MrWhite
06-19-2008, 03:41 PM
Bump -->> added pics.

GSXRJJordan
06-21-2008, 09:26 PM
Excellent writeup!

Note: save time (but not $$$) by removing the diff and driving it to a diff shop. You'll have to do this anyway if you screw up the "blueprinting" section of the install (remembering/writing down which bearings/shims went where).

CityTireOnline.com
06-23-2008, 03:00 PM
That exhaust and the wheels look oddly familiar. :D

MrBlack
06-24-2008, 02:02 PM
Can't wait to get my Zeee to full attack condition...
:2f2f:

coolforumname
09-07-2008, 06:51 PM
Question:

I have everything unbolted but the carrier is still on by the stud that is on the back cover. Is that bolted on the other side of the subframe or does it really just pop in and out. I've tired deep sockets from 16mm to 19mm but none of them grab, and frankly I'm pissed, it was all smooth till then and the factory manual does not explain much on that part.

Thanks Frank

MrWhite
09-07-2008, 10:31 PM
It is supposed to just be slided out forward once you removed the rear nut. The thing is heavy so might be in tension??? The whole thing just hangs in 3 bolts, as far as I know this was the easiest part.

sdblackgloves
09-12-2008, 12:43 AM
how do you measure backlash? everyone says to measure backlash but never mention how its done? Can you explain? thanks

MrWhite
12-09-2008, 07:21 PM
If it is the Nismo GT LSD, you don't. It has perfect fit. I have mounted two GT LSD diffs on 350Z and both were perfect right away. We made a controlmeasure by holding the flanges and checked the play on the main shaft flange, divided by the ratio and got a good number, just to make sure it was not completely off. It normally feels nice and tight compared to the stock (but not too tight).

coolforumname
12-16-2008, 12:18 PM
you would need a dial indicator to check the back lash and run out, also it doesn't hurt to double check it. Harbor frieght sells them for like $20

DeezNuhtz
11-20-2010, 08:52 AM
Question:

I have everything unbolted but the carrier is still on by the stud that is on the back cover. Is that bolted on the other side of the subframe or does it really just pop in and out. I've tired deep sockets from 16mm to 19mm but none of them grab, and frankly I'm pissed, it was all smooth till then and the factory manual does not explain much on that part.

Thanks Frank

I am having the same exact problem. Everything unbolted, and that same thing keeps happening...Shit won't grab. All I keep hearing is that this is the easiest part, but yeah. Not for us haha. Ideas???