Master Chief
06-18-2008, 04:12 PM
Hi all, i thought i would share what i did, as it took some reaserch and i hope this will save someone, the trubble in the future.
Basicly with the new engine i wanted to drop the whole inefficient OEM Water cooled Oil cooler, that comes original on some Euro market models, and others.
I decided to use the oportunity to move the Oil filter to a better location for quick changes as well.
The oil cooler location was hard to decide on. There was either the Passanger wing (instead of the washer bottle), or between the RAD and the FMIC.
As i wanted to keep the lines as short as possible, and allso keep the stock under covers i opted for the wing at the end.
Here is what parts i used and what i did.
From RHDJAPAN :
Tomei N2 oil block, with 10AN fittings. - 228$
Greddy/Trust/Grex Thermostatic filter oil plate. - 163$
From anplumbing.com:
SETRAB #625 Oil cooler - 25 Rows with 10AN fittings. - 206$
6 X Streight 10AN Swivel-Seal fittings, part #800110. - 63$
1 X 45 Deg. 10AN Swivel-Seal fitting, part #804610 . - 23$
1 X 90 Deg. 10AN Swivel-Seal fitting, part #809110 . - 23.5$
10 feet of 10AN Perform-O-Flex braided hose, part #410010.
I had plenty of left overs, but since it was my first time working with braided hose, i wanted some spairs for experiments, but even after that i was still left over with quite a bit..... Make your masurments and order acordingly. I think that 6 feet is more the enough and costs - 54$.
From my local ACE depot - some metal and aluminium brakets and bolts, about 10$ worth.
Grand total about 770$. Not cheap, but every part is the BEST money can buy, for this type of thing.
You can save big on the hoses and fittings if you go for cheaper brands - same goes for the cooler and the rest of the stuff....
So, what i did.
1. Install the TOMEI block. I had to block off some colant pipes that were used for the OEM water cooled cooler - most of you wont have this problem.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler6.jpg
The 10AN fittings that come with the Tomei Plate, are 12mm ID on one side, and only 10mm id on the other side. You dont need to do this, as the passages in the block are about 10mm id, but i used a 12mm drill and enlarged the fittings ID , all the way thru , to 12mm.
The fittings that come on the Greddy/Trust oil block ar 12mm all the way.
2. Next you need to decide on a location for the oil relocation plate. I made a flange, and connected below the battery tray - i had to drill two holes for that.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler1.jpg
You can see here the hoses connected already.
All the STREIGHT fittings were used to connect to the Filter block, and to the Tomei block on the engine.
This filter relocation block requires a 3/4-16 UNF filter - i used the Greddy filter - part number "OX-1" - its 65mm Dia. You can use other types as long as they are 3/4-16 UNF. Check the Greddy site for more specs.
3. Next was the hard part. Mounting the Oil cooler and routing the lines to the wing area. I had to make some brakets for it, but i didnt have to drill any holes in the cars body. I used available holes only.
I think the pictures speak for themselves.
Remeber to check that you can get the hoses to the oil cooler, from the filter relocation block - without them tuching anything.
If they come close to something, use a piece of rubber hose to isolate them, as braided hoses wil eat thru any metal they tuch.
Allso remeber that these type of hose have a minimum bend radius of 4".
If you try to bend them tighter than that, you will damage the hose.
The way i routed them was the best i could find. They are pretty loose, and hardly tuch any metal. Where they do, i isolated them with a bit of silicon hose wraped around the relevant area.
Allso the cooler itslef is monted with insulated rubber on all corners, as recomanded by SETRAB.
Its important the have some FLEX in the whole system, so it wil apsorb the vibrations.
Here are the lines needed from the Filter Block to the cooler, and the brakets i made.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler2.jpg
Here is the cooler mounted. Notice the Top mounting point, and the 90Deg fitting.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler3.jpg
Here you can see how the line route benith the car to the engine compartment, and the beautiful braket i made.
The bottom line is with the 45 Deg. fitting.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler4.jpg
Thats it.
The bumper goes back on, no problem with this size cooler. I would say that its the biggest you can get in there, with a FMIC and OEM bumper.
This is a ZENKI, but i belive it would look the same on the KOUKI.
Allso, if you dont have the arch lining you should make some kind of protection for the cooler, not to get hit by a rock or something.
Before you start the engine, i recomand to use the top line that goes to the cooler, and prime the cooler with fresh oil.
start the engine, check for leaks and go for a ride.
As its a thermostatic oil relocation/oil cooler block - you wont have problems geting to cold temps.
It would be a good idea dough, to monitor the oil pressure.
Leme know what you guys think, and if you have questions that i can answer.
Thanks,
Dany.
Basicly with the new engine i wanted to drop the whole inefficient OEM Water cooled Oil cooler, that comes original on some Euro market models, and others.
I decided to use the oportunity to move the Oil filter to a better location for quick changes as well.
The oil cooler location was hard to decide on. There was either the Passanger wing (instead of the washer bottle), or between the RAD and the FMIC.
As i wanted to keep the lines as short as possible, and allso keep the stock under covers i opted for the wing at the end.
Here is what parts i used and what i did.
From RHDJAPAN :
Tomei N2 oil block, with 10AN fittings. - 228$
Greddy/Trust/Grex Thermostatic filter oil plate. - 163$
From anplumbing.com:
SETRAB #625 Oil cooler - 25 Rows with 10AN fittings. - 206$
6 X Streight 10AN Swivel-Seal fittings, part #800110. - 63$
1 X 45 Deg. 10AN Swivel-Seal fitting, part #804610 . - 23$
1 X 90 Deg. 10AN Swivel-Seal fitting, part #809110 . - 23.5$
10 feet of 10AN Perform-O-Flex braided hose, part #410010.
I had plenty of left overs, but since it was my first time working with braided hose, i wanted some spairs for experiments, but even after that i was still left over with quite a bit..... Make your masurments and order acordingly. I think that 6 feet is more the enough and costs - 54$.
From my local ACE depot - some metal and aluminium brakets and bolts, about 10$ worth.
Grand total about 770$. Not cheap, but every part is the BEST money can buy, for this type of thing.
You can save big on the hoses and fittings if you go for cheaper brands - same goes for the cooler and the rest of the stuff....
So, what i did.
1. Install the TOMEI block. I had to block off some colant pipes that were used for the OEM water cooled cooler - most of you wont have this problem.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler6.jpg
The 10AN fittings that come with the Tomei Plate, are 12mm ID on one side, and only 10mm id on the other side. You dont need to do this, as the passages in the block are about 10mm id, but i used a 12mm drill and enlarged the fittings ID , all the way thru , to 12mm.
The fittings that come on the Greddy/Trust oil block ar 12mm all the way.
2. Next you need to decide on a location for the oil relocation plate. I made a flange, and connected below the battery tray - i had to drill two holes for that.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler1.jpg
You can see here the hoses connected already.
All the STREIGHT fittings were used to connect to the Filter block, and to the Tomei block on the engine.
This filter relocation block requires a 3/4-16 UNF filter - i used the Greddy filter - part number "OX-1" - its 65mm Dia. You can use other types as long as they are 3/4-16 UNF. Check the Greddy site for more specs.
3. Next was the hard part. Mounting the Oil cooler and routing the lines to the wing area. I had to make some brakets for it, but i didnt have to drill any holes in the cars body. I used available holes only.
I think the pictures speak for themselves.
Remeber to check that you can get the hoses to the oil cooler, from the filter relocation block - without them tuching anything.
If they come close to something, use a piece of rubber hose to isolate them, as braided hoses wil eat thru any metal they tuch.
Allso remeber that these type of hose have a minimum bend radius of 4".
If you try to bend them tighter than that, you will damage the hose.
The way i routed them was the best i could find. They are pretty loose, and hardly tuch any metal. Where they do, i isolated them with a bit of silicon hose wraped around the relevant area.
Allso the cooler itslef is monted with insulated rubber on all corners, as recomanded by SETRAB.
Its important the have some FLEX in the whole system, so it wil apsorb the vibrations.
Here are the lines needed from the Filter Block to the cooler, and the brakets i made.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler2.jpg
Here is the cooler mounted. Notice the Top mounting point, and the 90Deg fitting.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler3.jpg
Here you can see how the line route benith the car to the engine compartment, and the beautiful braket i made.
The bottom line is with the 45 Deg. fitting.
http://www.max-tuning.com/gallery/mypics/sr20det/oilcooler/cooler4.jpg
Thats it.
The bumper goes back on, no problem with this size cooler. I would say that its the biggest you can get in there, with a FMIC and OEM bumper.
This is a ZENKI, but i belive it would look the same on the KOUKI.
Allso, if you dont have the arch lining you should make some kind of protection for the cooler, not to get hit by a rock or something.
Before you start the engine, i recomand to use the top line that goes to the cooler, and prime the cooler with fresh oil.
start the engine, check for leaks and go for a ride.
As its a thermostatic oil relocation/oil cooler block - you wont have problems geting to cold temps.
It would be a good idea dough, to monitor the oil pressure.
Leme know what you guys think, and if you have questions that i can answer.
Thanks,
Dany.