car would idle, but then stall

[1slowS13]

i have a ka24de. i had a problem with hesitation and have replaced many parts. i recently replaced the throttle position sensor with an included throttle body and the ignition coil. it seems my problems went away at first. i drove it to the corner store and back and felt good. i pick up a friend and was waiting at the front of his house while idling, then my car stalled. i fire it up, starts fine and drives like nothing ever happened. i go down the street, right when i turn right on the intersection, no power at all. the engine didn't stall but you couldn't hear it fire. if you downshifted, the rpm gauge would go up, but couldn't rev in neutral. if i turned the car off, then back on, it would drive fine again.

i just got home and now my car is stuck at a friend's house 30 sum miles away. anybody got any ideas.

aside from the actual stalling and loss of power, the car felt good.

[Z U L8R]

borrow a buddy's maf

Dave

[singlecamslam]

So would you say the car runs fine when its cold but when it warms up it starts being bitchy? if thats so try your coolent temp sensor.

[1slowS13]

i've switched through different maf's, not it.

i have a brand new cts, but it doesn't run 'bitchy' it straight up wants to stall, and you can't keep it from stalling, even if you gas it, the rpms won't raise. i have to restart the car in order to drive it.

[Z U L8R]

solder in a new maf plug

Dave

[1slowS13]

alright, i'll see what i can do. i'll try to get my hands on a solder.

also on the first start up, i had to rebleed my coolant since i changed the throttle body and had to disconnect the lines and etc, the car never stalled the whole time. it probably took 20-30 minutes waiting for the burp my system. when this was happening, car would surely stall well within 10 minutes of me starting it up when it was hot.

[1slowS13]

what do you exactly mean by solder in a maf plug? i took a closer look at the wires and peeled the tubing, it seems that they're fine and are firmly attached to their corresponding pins.

[clark]

is your throttle position sensor properly calibrated? or did you just slap it in there?


check your timing at set it to 20° if it's not.

check for vacuum leaks

[1slowS13]

timing is set to the stock 20btdc, ive checked for vacuum leaks, egr, fpr, actuators seem fine, although i did have to glue back a nipple on the egr solenoid since it snapped and was inside the vacuum hose.

the tps i did not mess with. the guy told me it recently came off a good running car, and i took his word for it.

[Z U L8R]

i've had a couple cars recently where the maf plug would unplug just enough to lose the signal whether the clip on types like those on rb's or the slide on paperclip joints like those on old ka's and sr's. been seeing more and more of that but usually it happens at random or once they drive for a little and the plug jiggles itself.

if your car's stationary just idling there yet it keeps cutting off at the same time, then yeah, i would replace the coolant temp sensor for the ecu if the closed and wide open voltage on your tps is within spec.

gl man, you'll fix it =]
Dave

[1slowS13]

yea, ive made sure my maf stays plugged in.

like i said, i've already replaced the coolant temp sensor.

odd thing today is, the car threw a code 43, tps. this is after i put the new-used one in, so i just took the sensor out and put my old one back in. i don't have a multimeter and just aligned it with the dust marks that are on the sensor itself. ghetto, yes i know. i will get a multimeter soon to test the voltage at closed and open, and wot. drove around great, better than changing it before, but the weird this is, this is the same tps that i had in my car which was having problems also. we'll see.

thanks z u l8r, +1 rep for you

[1slowS13]

so i got a $3 multimeter from harbor freight, and im not quite sure how to use it, but i jumped right on it.

i measured the the tps harness with it still plugged into the tps, and with the key in 'on' position.

from left to right, the first one, which i believe is gournd measured at 0.0
the middle pin measured .41, i then readjusted to .45 and it reads all the way up to 4.5 on wot. the far right one measured in at a steady 5.3 closed or open.

after i readjusted to .45 there were flat spots again on my rpm range, i havent readjusted to see if putting it back where it used to be would correct the problem

[Z U L8R]

good testing on the tps +1 that's how it's done. i still think it's a maf issue but that's just me.

see if you can isolate it. try to get it to act up. then once you can get it to act up you can see what it's losing, whether it's losing fuel or losing spark, or something's leaking or what not.

gl, lemme know what u find out

Dave =]