wiring SR no chasis harneee or relays help

[turboh224g]

WE are running a power FC with an engine harness only on our track project car. we have wired in a push button start and the engine turns over fine but is not getting fuel or spark. I wired a switch to send power to everything that needs power in the accessories position and made sure that the ecu is getting power through the main harness in the proper pin locations. It seems as if the ecu is not sending out a signal to the plugs or injectors. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks,
JKP

[GSXRJJordan]

You need to power the igniter harness as well as the ECU (which powers the sensors). The igniter harness is the 6-pin, grey plug that hooks up behind the valve cover... the blue with red stripe wire gets a 10A fused, relay'd, 12V+. If you need more help, PM me and I'll give you the SR20 pinout I made for my standalone harness.

[turboh224g]

I ran a 12v switched power to the coil pack harness. Now I am getting power all the to the coilpack but still no spark. I have basically run everything that would normally get power in the acc position to a switched distribution block. To start the car I flip this switch and then use the push button starter that is installed. We now know that the coil pack harness is getting power. The other pins hooked to the switched power are: pin 4 eccs relay, pin 36 start signal, pin 38 eccs power, pin 46 eccs backup power, pin 47 eccs power, also getting 12v switched power are the ignition power, o2 power, and iac power. Is this all correct? does anything else need switched power? Please help. Thanks,
JKP

[turboh224g]

How much signal should I have coming out of the ecu going into the ignitor. My multimeter was showing a small change for 3 of the cylinders but nithing for the 4th. The readings were all around .24 volts. Is that right? Plugged ecu side back in and checked output to coilpacks side and did not get any reading on multimeter. Ignitor does not recieve power from somewhere does it? Thanks,
JKP

[turboh224g]

just ran a continuity test on my q45 ignitor and it appears to have tested out just fine. I am thinking the power fc is not sending out enough signal to make the ignitor pass the signal on. jkp

[aNskY]

what year sr, and what part # pfc are you running

[turboh224g]

no idea what year sr but it is a redtop, power fc # is pfc sr202r 9707 0042.Someone just suggested to me that maybe my problem is no relays. Since we are not running a chasis harness I have not installed any relays. I was under the impression that a relay basically acted like a switch and once it recieved a signal it switched power. Someone told me that a relay also steps up the power output. The ecu relay wire I have running into the 4 pin is currently just run to a 12v source. If a relay steps up power does this mean that the ecu is not getting enough power? Are ther other relays that are important? Thanks,
JKP

[aNskY]

relays do not "step up" anything, you should be fine with everything on direct switched power...

the part number you posted for the pfc is not a pfc part number. you want to run 414AN014 or 414AN020 if you're d-jetro. if you have the wrong pfc your ignition outputs will be different...

[Z U L8R]

pfc d-jetro is the baller shit +1 if you have power going to everything like you say and you're not getting fuel or spark , perhaps your cam angle sensor isn't giving your ecu any reference for when to send it. test your cas if your other tests are correct

Dave =]

[tt99ol]

are you sure you gave power to EVERYTHING
is the ecu backup power constant 12v
is the ecu grounded strong?

[turboh224g]

I checked at the main harness pins and I am still getting 15+volts there. The ground is direct and definately good.
JKP

[turboh224g]

Been looking for a way to check cas. If I understand correctly the cas sends signal out to ecu, ecu to ignitor, ignitor to coilpack, and then spark. If my cas is not sending the signal to the ecu this could be a reason I am getting no spark. Again if I understand correctly the cas is mechanical and so if I am able to turn the engine over regardless of any other problems the cas should be sending out a signal. The only way I have found to check this is with a test light. I checked each of the four pins for 720 degrees of rotation and did not get any light. I assume this is a good indicator that the cas is bad? Does this sound correct? Thanks,
JKP

[GSXRJJordan]

The CAS (the FSM calls it CMPS) has it's own power lead, coming from the ECU, I'd check that first. I believe it's the white wire that should carry +voltage (test light to that and ground).

Because it's such an important component, it is a level 1 check-engine-light part, so there's not really a lot covered in the FSM about checking it (the FSM says either the MIL is on, and it's the CAS, or it's off and it's not). Here's one thing I did find that you could check:
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/6962/injectorcascheckwp4.png

check injector clicks with a flathead screwdriver on the injector body or get your ear real close. It should be pretty obvious.

[turboh224g]

I did not have a chance to check the injector clicks while manually spinning the cas yet but I did test for power. The black and white wire has power coming to it when the switched power is on. When I trace it back it appears to go to the #38 or#47 pins which are eccs power. Does this mean that is power coming out through the ecu and into the sensor or is there another splice somewhere that I didn't see. This would seem to imply that power is at least traveling through the ecu. I will run the other test tomorrow and see what I can find out.
JKP

[turboh224g]

just ran the clicking test suggested on the cas. I did this with one coilpack out to check fuel injector firing and coilpack firing. While manually turning the cas with power to my distribution block switched on I got spark and the injectors fired, with fuel pump still off of course. GREAT! Then I put everything back together and pushed the start button but it wouldn't start. I pulled the plug back out and no spark or fuel again. I think I must have something wired wrong so that when I actually press the start button and starter solenoid etc get power something is wrong. Someone mentioned that some wire is supposed to get power in the on position but not the start position. Does anyone know what this is? Thanks,
JKP

[turboh224g]

I checked all the power leads to the ecu while cranking and there is a power drop while cranking but everything still has power. Is there anything about the transmission that is important to start the car, like a neutral switch that tells the car is in neutral? I can't imagine that is important but maybe? I really am running out of ideas. Thanks,
JKP

[tt99ol]

yes there is a neutral safety switch
its on the clutch pedal
you can just jump it with a wire
but i think it only keeps the starter from getting power
automatics have a nss also but again i believe it blocks power to the starter

[turboh224g]

My buddy came down today with a redtop ecu. we swapped this in place of the power fc we had in the car. Now we get spark and fuel but the car still won't start. It sounds like there is not enough power getting to the starter. We have a trunk mount battery with 4 gauge wire run directly to the starter. We also have a push button start running to the starter solenoid. Battery is fully charged and we even swapped in a battery from a running G35 and still not starting. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks,
JKP

[GSXRJJordan]

I PM'd ya. I'm gonna have to fly to Philly and drive this thing around a bit as payment for all these PMs if you ever get it running :)

[turboh224g]

Deal, you have been extremely helpful. Car should be a blast when it gets going. JKP