1993 240sx: how hard is it to buff car paint

[surreybc]

My car is red. It was repainted in 96 so it is not factory paint. The paint is in pretty good condition. I have searched this but I dont really get it.

If there is a clearcoat , do you just polish the clearcoat or do you take the clearcoat off.

There are some cheap polishers that have like 3 amps. Will these work ok.

Any idea how much it would cost to get it done professional. I want to buff sand the top oxidized layer of paint or clearcoat off.

[Addicted2Kouki]

I wouldnt buff a car out unless you know exactly how much clear is on it.

Should be a minimum 3 coats to colorsand and buff.
Maybe 2.5 to just buff.

If there isnt 2 coats of clear, it cant provide the necessary UV protection and do it all over again....
but then again, if its oxidizing it was probably shit paint anyways.

My advice to you is....
colorsand the whole car.
spray a flow coat [just clear on top of it.]
color sand and buff that.

[Zhanshi]

Don't get a cheap buffer/polisher if you really want to try this.

Here is a good site to look at regarding detailing:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/

If you really want to buff the paint, make sure you know how much clear is on your car like Addicted2Kouki said. Plus, try a small portion of the car first. Wet sand with 2000 grit sand paper in a side to side motion, not circular. Then take some polishing compound and a buffer to it. The link above has some how-tos on this process.

[Anto]

see first if it's a two stage paint.
Many cheap repaints are only one stage, hence no clear.
You could buff it out, but you'd need to start with the least abrasive and work your way up the chart from there (in terms of compound abrasiveness).

To answer your questions:
No, you don't need to remove the clearcoat before doing this. When you compound with the correct product, it should remove oxidation without removing excess material. If your oxidation is beneath your clear, then the person doing it should see when to stop after doing some control spots.

Most likely if you got it done by someone they'd start with a medium cut pad with a light compound, and if necessary work their way up to using a heavy cut foam or wool pad with some medium abrasive compound..

look it up before doing anything, if you value your paint and try to keep it in good condition, then you should pay someone to do it.


OTHERWISE, if you dont care just start rubbing away with 2000 grit sandpaper, finish it off with rubbing compound and finishing compound, then wax